racer98

btw Z31 Turbo back section of the gear box can be swapped onto the newer bellhousings. this is good for people who dont want to cut up thier transmission tunnel.

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skylinegtr20

I assume you mean for S Chassis?

racer98

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eh?

Made a new website dedicated to RB engines check it out:
RBforums - Forums-RB parts catalog/wire diagrams/FSM's.

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soon2bs13

Very useful information!!

A couple of days ago, I finally got the 240 started up and drove it in the driveway. There are a couple of things that I am concerned about.

1. As I am cranking the motor, it is turning over and making a grinding sound. It starts up, but I was thinking maybe it has something to do with the Starter not engaging correctly.

2. When I am in neutral and open the throttle, it seems like there is a rev-limiter on it. I think that may be due to the MAF Sensor and/or wires. I am going to recheck those wires and make sure everything is solid. Anything else I should check into?

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eh?

For #2 check your maf wiring. What RPM does it cut at?

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soon2bs13

not entirely sure. if i had to make an educated guess, i would say between 2500-4000 rpms. we only wired up the necessary wires to get the car started. i have to drive it from one place to another to get someone else to help me finish up the wiring.

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neg repping is cool!!

eh?

If it's around there it's most likely maf wiring.

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soon2bs13

thanks!

i will check it out.

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eklips3

you know what else you can do to fix that rev limiter problem .

i remember in my car at one point did the same thing. turns out that it was the Cam Angle Sensor was barely connected thus rev limiting at the same point in your case 3-4K RPM .

so just check out the Cam angle sensor

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Rob W.
1992 240sx

soon2bs13

Thanks. I will check that out as well.

Update on mine:

I believe that the starter is going bad. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it seems like when I try to crank it, it does not do anything. I tried another battery and that did not solve the issue, so I believe that it is the starter going out.

The car seems to idle fine, but when I put it into gear and let the clutch out, it dies. I made sure the connections on the MAF were good. I am going to try and switch the black/gray, black wire to see if that makes a difference or not.

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Zacho

Hey guys, I couldn't find a post with anyone sharing the RB25 ecu codes...so I thought I would post them up. These are straight out of the ecr33 manual.


11 Crankshaft position sensor
12 MAF sensor circuit (air flow meter)
13 Coolant temperature circuit
14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21 Ignition circuit
31 ECU (ouch!)
34 Knock sensor
43 Throttle position circuit
45 Injector leak
51 Ignition circuit
54 Auto signal to ECU
55 All OK

--->There are three different types of factory ECU available in Skylines.
One type has two LEDs and five modes
The second type has one LED and two modes
The last type has no LEDs, the output is done with the engine checklight in the instrument cluster. Acts as a single LED ECU.


How to check codes:

1. Switch on the ignition, but don't start. The LED on the ECU will be glowing.

2. Turn the selector screw clockwise all the way (gently!)

3. For two LED ECU's: the LED will flash once, pause, flash twice, pause... all the way up to five. This is the diagnostic mode. Mode 1=one flash, mode 5=five flashes. When you reach the right mode, turn the screw back counter clockwise. Mode 3 is what most people use.

4. For single LED ECU's: wait a couple of seconds, and turn the screw back counter clockwise, the ECU is now in mode 2.

5.The engine check light on the dash will mirror the LED on the computer.


The LED will flash out a code(or series of codes if there is more than one fault) The ECU will keep error codes in memory for 50starts, so keep in mind if an error happened 51 starts ago, there will be no record of it in the ECU.
More recent ECU's have two LED's (red = first digit, green = second digit, for example, red 2x flash, green 1x flash = code 21)

The ECU's on most R32's have one LED, long flash = first digit, short flash =
second digit, for example, long, long, short = code 21.

Hope this helps you guys!

soon2bs13

on the intake manifold near the AAC Valve, there are 2 lines that i believe are vacuum lines and i was wanting to know if someone has a picture or information to where it connects to. i thought it was hooked up to the charcoal canister, but i am not sure.

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neg repping is cool!!

Zacho

Hey man, hope this helps you out.

soon2bs13

thanks Zacho!!

it looks like the lines are the "To Canister" and "to recirculation valve". since i do not have the charcoal canister, i can put a cap on those 2 lines, correct?

today i swapped the MAF wires (the black ones) and now i can rev higher than i used to. i tried to put it in gear and drive it and it was trying to stall out while letting the clutch out. could that possibly be a vaccuum leak?

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CAPoweredS14

Ok, so after finishing a nice RB25 S2 swap into my S14 the last thing we do it run a 180 degree "U" to recirc the heater core input/output on teh motor. Well, it wasn't tightened down as good as I thought and when I started up motor it idles perfectly and everything was nice. Only thing is, a litle started to leak onto my starter and now I can't turn the key to start my car anymore, only push start. Luckily I have a hill down my driveway.

I could've sworn I read somewhere another starter could be used but is my only option an OEM one?

bardabe

yep pretty much, get another OEM or get yours rebuilt

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ANVIL

i cant get on nico club right now, but theres a US replacement for the starter, from what i remember its really cheap too. search the rb section there and you will find it.

fullthrottle

Same for me but with an rb26.

Ok so far ive been planning my rb26 build for awhile now. I have mckinney mounts and their downpipe which is notched. I know I need a driveshaft and frount mount. I need to send both wiring harness' off to get spliced together or I can take them to someone who knows what they are doing. How much am i missing in my equation assuming I have an rb25 tranny and tranny pan. Side note - does anyone know of a company that makes an oil pan for the 26 that replaces the pan that is also the front diff. The rb25 pan just doesnt fit well enough for me to feel safe. Open to constructive criticism aswell.

racer98

Just got some RB30E short blocks and will be making a couple hybrid swaps using Rb25 and RBb26 heads. will post all of the detailed modifications needed for the swap as well lots of missing info from posted guides that are posted online.


Set up 1

R34 Neo Turbo head swapped to the Rb30e bottom end - normal aspirated version / turbo version.


Set up 2

same as above but using the Rb26DETT head and intake


will post photos and steps needed.

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ANVIL

sick.

not doing any S1 rb25 heads?

racer98

using one to make an ITB set up right now lots of plans for the Rb30 block .

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bardabe

you can always have the Stock RB26 oil pan modified, Ive done it once before and is working great till today.

Chop off Stock diff have it milled flat, and weld it shut. wabam!
RB25 trans is taken care of.
Mounts are taken care of
Downpipe is taken care of
I can do the wiring, and IC piping, check out the fab thread i actually just got done doing a 3" set up on an S14 SR.

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Welded Diferentials, Lifetime Warranty
no questions asked
Review Thread

CAPoweredS14

Just thought I would post this... replacement for rb25det S2 starter is any 2.5L suburu starter. It's all Toshiba/Mitsubishi stuff just like is on our RBs..

eklips3

i also heard somwhere that its possible to use a sentra starter , not sure what year though

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Rob W.
1992 240sx

ANVIL

are s1 and s2 starters different? is that the starter that you are using? so are 2.5 RS and STI starters are the same?

8gti9

hello there, first post.

i'm installing a s2 rb25det into my s13 coupe and i'm trying to find a way to adjust the tach signal. now i know you can use the j30 tachometer and they are available anywhere ie: ebay, junkyards. but i have h.u.d. in my car. will this in any way affect the electronics in my hud? has anyone tried it before? i don't want to switch to analog speedo cluster.

i found link a few weeks back that show step by step on how to adjust (w/ pics) the tach from the back w/o having to replace the gauge itself. does anyone know? tried googling it but i forgot how i word it.

thnx

ProjNightshade

I'm also interested in this. I have an s2 going into an s14 so no HUD. what about the speedometer? i have searched, but the way it was worded confused me even further. I just want to know what I need to do to get them working. Help us out! Thanks.

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8gti9

i think for the speedo u wanna use a '96 300zx z32 n/a vss m/t.

but i might be wrong

ProjNightshade

thanks, but I need 100% certainty before I start workin on this. anyone else have anything?

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