AsleepAltima

ok, i rewired my fuel pump, actually, wired in a relay to send a full 12 volts to the hot side of the pump using the 12 volt signal wire from the fuel pump harness. worked like a charm except for one problem: when i turn the ignition off, the relay still supplies 12 volts to the electrical system and the car continues to run. if i put it in gear and kill it, the voltage goes away and the harness is off. i tried using a 4 prong relay and a 5 prong and it does the same thing. i even used a nissan headlight relay off of my altima parts car and it does the same thing - continues to run with the key "off".

anyone with a similar problem? i guess i could wire in a switch, but i want this to be turn-key and not have to hit an additional switch every time i get into the car.

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godsmack

its wired wrong. basically you want the switched part to be the voltage for the fuel pump. and the normaly closed section to be the power from the key. so key power - nc relay. nc other side - continue circuit. 12v signal wire - no relay -/- coming out of there go to fuel pump.

AsleepAltima

i tried that. same result. followed this:



and tried switching the wires around. basically, the relay was supplying the power until i interrupted it. once i did that, it effectively killed the circuit. i just said f it and wired in a toggle and hid it in the center console. :/

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WIKID S4TEEN

Shouldn't the ignition switch be shuting the power off to the relay?
Looks like you have the battery direct to relay.

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AsleepAltima

it is but only the relay power is direct to battery. the switched part goes to the fuel pump.

i was just on a different forum reading about the same thing and they said the problem comes from the ecu trigger wire being negatively grounded, thats why the relay continues to send power. makes sense i guess.

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WIKID S4TEEN

Actually, it doesn't. I can help you, if you're willing to post pictures of the connections and take voltage readings??

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godsmack

Learn how a relay works. the switched part will close when power is applied to the other circuit. the switched part is closed by a magnetic field from the power. so if you have constant power there the switched part will close the circuit. you will need to jump into your ignition power somewhere if you want it powered by the ignition.

godrifttoday

86 is the signal wire to activte or turn off the switch.. what are u using to send power to that part of the swtich? u can also use a toggle switch if u like?

the diagram is correct just get 12 volts to 86 and when ever you turn off the car it shuts off...

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godsmack

on the side of the relay there should be a wiring diagram. not all relays are going to be the same. look at the diagram on the relay. but it seems to me that where ever you broke the circuit and it shut off, switch that wire with an ignition wire (one that only has power when the key is in the "on" position) and you will be fine.

AsleepAltima

i do know that i used the ignition source according to the diagram. two different relays did the same thing. when you cut power to the relay - by pulling any of the wires off - it shuts off and then it doesnt have any power anywhere except for the battery source, of course, just like its supposed to. im using a different relay now than the bosch style relay. im using one of the black nissan relays that nissan likes to use for headlights in the altima and maxima. ill take a pic of it and describe where each wire is going. if i did something wrong, maybe you guys can see it.

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Broadfield

As some have said, simply run ignition power to pin 86. It doesn't even need to be high current since it's only triggering the relay... it can be less than 1 amp. It can come from the radio, the fuse box, the ignition harness etc.

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AsleepAltima

im not using that relay anymore, im using the nissan one thats numbered 1-5.

like this:



and i have it wired like this: 1 - ground, 2 - 12v ignition, 3 - Batt, 5 - fp power

should 2 be battery?

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WIKID S4TEEN

It shouldn't matter but I'd wired
1) to ignition switch or switch (+12vdc)
2) ground
The rest is correct.

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AsleepAltima

2 does go to ignition.

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WIKID S4TEEN

That should work. If the pump keeps running after you remove the key, you have a stuck relay or the power from the ignition is NOT turning off.
Next step is voltage reading.

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AsleepAltima

i tried 2 different relays and can feel the relay clicking off and on when i have my wife turn the key. the fuel pump voltage increases accordingly too. if i turn the key off and then remove one of the power wires, the engine shuts down like its supposed to and voltage is gone. thats why im stumped.

the fuel pump harness only has 1 wire that is 12v ignition switched. its the only i can go with just like theres only 1 wire that feeds the pump its power. it makes no sense that its working this way. the only thing i can think of that SHOULD remove power when the key is turned off is to physically cut the fuel pump power wire and leave it connected pump side to the relay, so that its not back feeding to the car side of the harness. do you think that could be the issue? i left it intact because i read a thread somewhere here that said to leave the wiring intact and just add the relay so that the ecu can continue to control the pump while the engine isnt running.

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JDMRIDDAZ

get a real aftermarket relay...
i kno u can use the nissan ones but damn
ur diagram is not the way i do it...but iam not saying its incorrect
and u should be using a test light to diagnose...Google Image Result for http://site.unbeatablesale.com/img099/egle5060.gif
87=12v
86=ground
85=ignition
30=fuelpump

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AsleepAltima

the real relay was blown, that's why i'm using this one. I don't need a test light, I have a fluke. everything is wired how it should be. its gotta be something dumb. I'll try another "real" relay and try your way but I've wired it a couple different ways and same result.

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WIKID S4TEEN

If you have fluke, no need for test light, lol.
Let's test the relay.
Take the relay out of the circuit completely.
Can you apply 12VDC to the relay coil (1&2)?
You should get continuity across 3 & 5.
and no continuity when you release the power to the coil.
Please confirm.

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AsleepAltima

i bought a new relay while i was out, we can try this one and see what happens. ill use the above wiring suggestion and see what happens. that would make it 3 different relays if it does it again, lol.
oh, i actually have 2 flukes, lol.

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WIKID S4TEEN

If it's not too late. Test the relay outside of the circuit first.
Just in case there's something wrong.

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godrifttoday

dam dude your making this toooooo complicated

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AsleepAltima

its not complicated. its all wired, tucked, soldered and heat shrunk. all we are doing here is figuring out why its continuing to run with the key off so i can eliminate the toggle. its drivable right now. i didnt spend close to 11k on this car to be turning the fuel pump on and off with a toggle.

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AsleepAltima

naw its not too late, i just got me a cold coke, ill test it before i head out to the car.

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AsleepAltima

same result. runs till the toggle is flipped.

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AsleepAltima

confirmed. now i have a new spst relay that i just wired up the way that jdmriddaz suggested and no change. what do you think if i clip the fuel pump supply wire and connect it to directly to the relay? then it cant complete the circuit car side - only pump side.

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didderson

It sounds like you used the wrong input/output power from your fuel pump harness. If you did this near the tank like I did, I can take some pics of the wires to use to do this correctly (AT the fuel sump plug yo). Maybe your relay pins are tripped up but it sounds like your relay coil is constantly switched, yet the output only works when the car is on. I bought a car someone did that to, drains batteries off the tiny coil being energized so fix it soon.

I mounted my relay beside/above the sump on the inner frame just made a tapped ground.

Also, I hard wired around the sump plug for the power& gnd, shits not reliable with the amperage our aftermarket pumps need.

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AsleepAltima

if you could do that, that would be awesome. i have no worries about it draining though - once the toggle switches it off and the engine dies, there is no voltage anywhere at the harness, regardless of toggle position. im pretty positive its wired correctly, i think the voltage being added to the harness is creating voltage elsewhere. but either way, ill take a look at your harness and compare and change, if i have to.

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KiLLeR2001

Either you don't understand how a relay works or something is up with your ignition switch. I'd get rid of the toggle and get to the bottom of this issue. Crack open the steering column and see if voltage still exists in the IGN ON lead when power is cut off.

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AsleepAltima

i dont understand how everyone thinks i dont understand how a relay works - it works fine. it is providing power just like it is supposed to - with a turn of the key. the problem is not getting the power to the pump - the power is there. its not shutting off that is the problem. when i test it with a multi-meter, the power is gone but the car continues to run. with the toggle momentarily switched - all power is gone - like it should be. it doesnt come back on regardless of toggle position because THERES NO INPUT VOLTAGE to the relay from the switched side of the pump harness. i understand how it works just fine.

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