NewYorkCoupe

I'm gonna start off by saying that I try to do everything myself because I like to know its done right. When it came to welding a differential, I just didnt have the right welder to do the job.

A friend who is a professional welder said he'd be happy to help and thats where I ran into issues.

Box Weld came out great.... OR SO I THOUGHT!
-The welds are fantastic



When I looked a little harder, I found that the plate that got welded in was a little to small and was resting on the pin running through the center of the differential ( the one the axels rest on).

PROBLEM: The plates wont let the axels go all the way in. (see below pictures)





SOLUTION: Well at the moment I'm looking for you guys to maybe help me out. My thoughts at the moment are...

1. Cut off the beveled end of the axels, so that the axels rest flat on the plates sticking in from each side.

2. Machine out about 3/8" - 1/2" on each side of the end of the axel, so that it fits between the plates and touches the center pin. Kind of a tongue and groove idea.


So what do you guys think would be the best approach?

Im trying to salvage this shitty situation.

fliprayzin240sx

Get another open diff and start from scratch...fuck cutting corners. Shit like this is how you blow something up and make it worst for yourself.

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s13 @ fullboost

I have an open diff for sale if you wanna pay shipping its yours.

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NewYorkCoupe

I really dont see where I "CUT CORNERS" on this.

NewYorkCoupe

Hey I should know by the end of the week if I need a new one. Ill keep you in mind. Thanks man

s13 @ fullboost

yeah no problem

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bardabe

Throw it away, and try again.

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RPS13-604

welded diff= ghetto

Go and buy a real LSD thats the right way

NewYorkCoupe

This is not a welded vs vlsd vs 1.5/2 way differential bullshit thread. Lets keep this focused please.

DJDANGER24

personally i'd go with 3. toss this and try it again, dont go messing with the axles and throwing the balance off, it may cause more problems for you in the future you know ?

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gsxr141

is there any way to take the diff apart and cut out the offending metal? if not, i say get another diff and start again.
on another note, let me know if you need a hand. i'm in rochester also.

NewYorkCoupe

UPDATE

I will be using a mill to remove rectangle sections that will easily allow me to remove the offending metal. Ill update with pictures when possible.

In the meantime, any other ideas throw em out.

NewYorkCoupe

Hey man thanks for the offer, if I get hung up on anything Ill hit you up. Where abouts are you at?

gsxr141

i live near the beach in charlotte.

NewYorkCoupe

Thats a riot, I worked at pier 45 at the port for a while, and will be back soon.

Trevor87

open diffs are pretty much free...i dont see why your going to mill your diff out instead of just welding another one

ericcastro

Start new or very carefully remove the metal from the plate in the diff.
Dont mess with the axles.
if you break one, you cant just toss another one on in 15 minutes.
It will take you several days to make the new axle fit.

i didnt use a plate.
I just had the neighbor weld up the 4 corners and turn it over and the 4 corners.
The plate is overkill/insurence imo.
Just get some deep and slow heat on the corners and it will hold fine.

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 9K∙RACING™ If you were such a baller and had standards you wouldn't be on this forum..

orion::S14

Juts cut the axles shorter...it will be fine.

There will be PLENTY of spline engagement...same as stock, actually...since all you'll need to cut off is the pointed end (or a little of the splines...but any amount of spline you'd cut off wouldn't be engaged anyway - it would be just in the center section).

Seriously, how is that half-assed at all? It's a perfectly acceptable solution.

??? - Brian

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gsxr141

apparently welding a diff is ghetto. muscle car guys have been doing it forever. i think it's a perfectly acceptable low dollar upgrade. i've had mine done for 8 months and it's holding up fine. the best part is if it breaks, you can get another diff for cheap.

iROYAL

Yes, finally someone said it. I agree with orion and shave off the tip of the half shafts since they stick out inside the differential. The end that's smooth after the splines does not engage and therefore can be sacrificed in a situation like this.

Racepar1 and I were in the same situation with my car. This was the solution we came with.

roboticnissan

I can get it done lifetime guarantee for 50

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ericcastro

exactly.
My Rat Rod neighbor was like,
"you mean a locker?"
they have done it forever.

drifting can break axles though, so it shouldn't be a permanent solution.
I havent changed any axles, but i have one freind thats gone through 7 or so.
just know your risk

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 9K∙RACING™ If you were such a baller and had standards you wouldn't be on this forum..

Rabboni

I dont understand why you want to spend the money to machine new axles when it could probably be cheaper to acquire another diff and reweld it.

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codyace

Winner winner, chicken dinner.

Seriously, I'm not sure where this 'rage' over a bulllshit plate came into the equation, but it really doesn't make a damn difference.

Welded diff secret, Ace Trucking style:

1. Brake Clean the diff...get that oil off there. Use a hole can, they are only like 3 bucks.

2. Torch. Get the motherfucker nice and warm, and burn any leftover oil.

3. Let it cool

4. Torch it again, get er hot

5. Break out the welder, and on the cooldown, get some weld in there. Ain't gotta be prettry, just gotta stick. Do this as needed on all spider gears, and you'll be good as pie.


I dunno where this 'secret art' came from, but following my abov emethod will last an entire demo derby heat, as well as a final, and then another demo later. That works for me!

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duffman1278

It came from PBM when people saw how they did it, people on zilvia started wetting themselves and saying "this is the right way to do it, don't tack it"

I got mine welded exactly like ericcastro's, welded the 4 corners, front and back, never had an issue.

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I LUV MY S13

first thing that popped in my head...but i would honestly go with a new one

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-Jorge

ericcastro

Ive been on mine for 3 years like that.
I also personally feel that 2 metal plates like that throw off the balance.
(also a consideration in notching the axles).
although, such a small amount might be nill, look at how small the counter weights on tires and drive shafts are.
(probably more of a mental thing for me)

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Quote:

Originally Posted by 9K∙RACING™ If you were such a baller and had standards you wouldn't be on this forum..

NewYorkCoupe

Wow guys I fall asleep and you guys go at it! The idea of the welded differential is some serious old school muscle...they called it the Lincoln Locker.

I figured if I was gonna have someone else weld it, they might as well plate it aka overkill on welds, but its a little more peace of mind on my end.

racepar1

I had the same problem with a customer's diff the he supplied. After getting a couple other welded diffs that were both bad, cracked welds and such, I just machined the stub shafts to clear. The way yours is welded is pretty strong, but you just need to clearence the stub shafts. Just make sure that the snap ring groove in the stub shafts are not disturbed...

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fcdrifter20

YES!!! this is my procedure exactly lol. i have been doing them like this for the las several years, and have not had a problem yet