blink182house

i installed a xtd stage 3 clutch/pressure plate on my car when my sr came in, installed and everything, got the car running, drove around the block a few times and the pedal would engage/disengage the clutch really low like almost to the floor. so i adjusted the master cylinder arm some and ended up blowing the slave cylinder. replaced slave cylinder, moved master arm back some, now having problems getting car in gear at all! so i figured i way overtightend the pressure plate and the forks on the plate were so tight down that the throwout bearing wasnt even barely reaching them.

i redid my clutch and pressure plate and i noticed the forks on the pressure plate were not so low. then reassembled and it still was doing the same thing, so i bought ANOTHER new master cyl (also just replace slave cyl again) and bled the clutch. here's the deal, my car will go into gear sitting still with motor off. clutch pedal is pretty damn soft and doesnt come but only halfway up from the floor. when car is running and i push clutch pedal down and go to put it in 1st, it wont go in gear and the car budges forward as if its trying to engage with the pedal down still. i have a brand new xtd stage 3 pressure plate/clutch, i did not replace the pilot or throwout bearing but im pretty sure they're both find and working. the master and slave cyl are both new and have been bled with no air in line. the bellhousing fork is on the pivot nipple and the clips are on the throwout bearing correctly and slide freely on the tranny shaft. any ideas as to wtf is going on?! the only other thing i can think of is that this XTD off-brand crap clutch/pressure plate is bullshit and i need to swap back to the oem pressure plate and clutch that came with the motor, which are in DECENT condition, prob for sure enough to get me through the drift day.

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blink182house

dampener deleted and the soft line is a ss line, no leaks where hardline and softline are connected, nor where softline enters slave, nor where hardline enter master.

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-Scott :: TRACTIONOPTIONAL.com

sidewaysonmy180

let me guess whats going on. when you put the clutch pedal down theres no feed back right. have a friend go under the car and see if the clutch slave is pushing on the fork. if it is but the fork stays pushed out as if theres no pressure pushing back. than its your flywheel. by the sounds of it you didnt get your flywheel resurfaced. make sure to get the step up cuz if you dont youll have the same problem. happened to me awhile back. but it wasnt my fault the machine shop i took the flywheel couldnt feel the step up so they didnt put one in. worked fine for about a month then there was no pressure to my pedal. try that and write back if it worked.

blink182house

get the step up? i dont possibly understand how resurfacing a flywheel is going to give my clutch pressure? i've swapped numerous clutches over the last 5 years and never resurfaced a flywheel...

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Ceepo

you should always resurface your flywheel, gives the clutch a nice smooth flat area to grab, throw that clutch a way a get a real true brand clutch, they are not that much more...

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1995 240sx SE (current)

sidewaysonmy180

wow are you serious? you should always get a flywheel redone. and trust me on this its your flywheel. that step up makes a big difference. now if you dont want to take my advice than keep pulling that transmission off and on and waisting money. cuz in the end its gonna be your flywheel. just remember you heard it on zilvia first.oh and maybe youve never came across this problem cuz the step up on the other flywheels were not as worn out as this one is.

nissandr1ft

I had this problem with my RPS Max Street clutch, and after checking everything it ended up being a defective pressure plate. I replaced my master/slave, already deleted the dampener, replaced the pivot, made sure the fork wasn't bent, adjusted my pedal, and resurfaced my flywheel before realizing what the issue was.

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sidewaysonmy180

at least you did your flywheel. i went back and forth with the clutch . and pressure plate. even got a whole new clucth kit. from the shop i first bought the clutch kit from and in the end it was the flywheel the shop messed up on the step up. once i told them they redid the flywheel with the step at no cost to me of course and it worked great.

jspaeth

I agree with you.

Given how much the clutch disc moves, how can taking tiny tiny fractions of an inch off of the flywheel effect whether or not it's contacting the clutch?

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godsmack

did you use the throwout bearing that came with the clutch? or did you use the stock one? even if the flywheel would be resurfaced it would not have anything to do with pressure.

dongoesby

ah, clutch couldn't get into gear. Let me know share some of my very similar experience.

I highly suggest that you follow the above tips especially asking a buddy to step on the clutch while you go down there and see if the slave is pushing the fork.

I had a very similar problem when I did my swap few weeks ago. I changed new flywheel, clutch, nismo pilot bushing, oem TOB, and 2.4qt amsoil fluid (basically everything new except the fork). Everything installed follow by factory spec and guess what, i couldn't go into gear! The car would move forward when try to shift into 1st while the clutch was completely depressed. But the tranny would shift fine while the motor is off.

Like you, my hydralic (master and slave) were both fine before the swap, but it seems the slave just not pushing far enough for the new clutch to disengage. (i asked my bud to step on the clutch, so i could look at it from the bottom). I removed the tranny dust boot and peek inside and saw the TOB was pushing the pressure plate fine when the clutch is depressed. Thus, I know everything inside should be working accordingly. Later, I deleted the damper box and tried rebleed the system multiple times according to factory procedures, same thing, it did not push far enough to disengage the clutch. I tried another slave (used nismo), and same thing happened.

After that, I did a lot of research and talked with my clutch manufacturer. Under this situation, it would be most likely your pressure plate messed up (missing a tooth or something) or it does not work with your clutch disc (different brand). However, for mine, I got a customized clutch kit, it has a dual diaphragm pressure. What it does is it increases the clamping force and so it also increase the pressure you needed to apply in order to push to disengage the clutch.

Base on my thoughts, I did a simple test (still using it now): with the master pushing rod adjusted to the longest (like I did during the bleeding), I put a 10mm socket on top of the slave piston. It simply adds approx 2mm length to the slave piston. So whatever the length the slave was able to push out before, it adds 2mm extra length. Somehow, it just worked. It has been 3 weeks driving with that silly 10mm socket sandwich'd between my slave and the fork, and it worked fine. Just like what I thought, there is nothing work with the clutch kit, TOB, or my hydraulic system. For these 3 weeks, I still don't see a drop of fluid leaked out. The clutch master cylinder is still full. As for today, I still couldn't figure out a permenent solution and I'm not able to find any online. I suggest you could try my method before you drop your tranny, which saves you shit load of work.

Hope this helps

I'm not sure what you can adjust with the fork you said above. Everything is one-way installation from flywheel to clutch kit to pivot fork (clips and pivot ball).

this is my link
Clutch Not Disengaging! Bad bleeding or bad pressure plate?

negrosx13

what size drive on the socket??1/4 or 3/8in

pete240

I don't know if this is the same situation but I had this problem a couple weeks ago after doing a tranny swap. I didn't touch flywheel or clutch as it had just been installed new not to long ago 2 months tops. Long story short the input shaft of tranny had some surface rust which caused a bind on the pilot bushing. Because of this it was not letting the tranny fully disengage from the engine. After I took some Emory and a wire wheel to it I then repacked the shaft with plenty if lube it then began to work a normal. I've put about 300 miles on it since no probs.

sidewaysonmy180

hey that fraction of a inch is there for a reason. do you think nissan said [fuck it i think this flywheel should have a step up]. no its there for a reason. and if you ever look at the teath of a flywheel while your tightning the screws they start to go in . so like i said having a step up is important.

blink182house

well anyways guys dropped the tranny and swapped the oem clutch/pressure plate back on, checked everything. the throwout bearing is fine, mounted correctly, clipped on correctly, the fork is straight and on correctly. reinstalled and same problem. bled, same prob. brand new master and slave, no dampener, so we're thinking somewhere im losing pressure cause i was pressing the pedal to the floor and my dad held the slave cyl in... which if you know, if its got pressure in the system there's no way you can hold it.

and im sorry dude, i was just being nice before, i understand that resurfacing a flywheel every clutch change is something you should do, like same with pads and rotors, but this flywheel is fine and you're just a dumbass for thinking thats my why PRESSURE system is malfunctioning, has ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with the flywheel. please get off this thread so people who actually know wtf they are talking about can discuss this problem. kkthnxbyz.

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-Scott :: TRACTIONOPTIONAL.com

KrazyS13

This is complete

dongoesby

have you tried the method i mentioned above?

sidewaysonmy180

no problem man . i only told this cuz the same thing happen to me. and im just saying if you have not done it what does it hurt to try. its only 20 bucks where i went. but laters