J30 Hubs ON S14 The How TO (with Pics) - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

essforteen · 06-02-2009, 06:41 PM

If you own one of the unlucky s14 that are 4 lug,
Read a lot about how the J30 spindles are the same diameter as the s14 so I decided to use my shell as
A mock up to see if a J30 can be used as an alternative to the expensive s14 5 lug
So after a lot of trial and error I think I got it covered .
Why the J30 front hubs instead of the s14, they are abundant at the junk yard and Duh!! Its cheap.
What you Need:
Tools:
32mm, 19mm Socket
chisel or sharp flat head
Grinder/cut off Wheel,
Parts:
2 - J30 front Hubs From any year
2 - 1 5/8” ID washers
1 – Pack of .025” thick 1 3/8” ID, 1 7/8”OD Shims (McMaster-Carr)
(You will use 4 on each side and pack comes with 10)
5 lug Rotors
START
First remove the cap off the hub with a sharp chisel to get to the lock nut

Use the 32mm socket to remove the nut

The J30 hub has an ABS ring on it, that needs to be removed. Use a cut off wheel to cut a notch into the ring and use a flat head to pry it apart and the ring should slide off.

The rear bearing seal is also in the way for the hub to be mounted correctly. Remove the seal with a sharp chisel.

Next the spacer for the rear of the hub has to be mad Needs to be about 1/8” thick I used the 1 5/8” Inner Diameter Washer which was thick enough and cut the outside diameter to 2 ½”. I used a cutoff saw and then grinded the outside round

The reason for the spacer is to make the backspacing of the hub as close to stock as it can be so the brake calipers will bolt on.
Stock

J30

Next place the new washer you made in back of the hub and place on the knuckle.

OR You can do the following!!
UPDATE!
I thaught of a better way to do the rear spacer because it will be harder for others to grind down the washer to make it work.

Here is a pic of what i snagged from the yard
with my hubs! I marked the parts that have to be ground down.

Here is how it looks when its done!

Now you have to grind down the inside edge of the washer to make it sit flush!

Now you can use the rear seal but its just going to be there to keep rocks out wont really be a tight seal but here is were you cut the little plastic flap.

Then do the rest of the steps i did! The hub will feel real tight at first but thats because the real seal is breaking in to the back of the knuckle. be sure to check the hub if its loose and add a shim if you need to..
And you may need to space out your calipers with a washer to clear the rotors.

Then pace the four shims in front of the hub

Place the lock washer in front of the shims and tighten the nut Then torque to specs.

Install brakes and enjoy five Lug.

gijoe69 · 06-02-2009, 06:44 PM

nice write up....how long did it take u do figure it out lol

cured13 · 06-02-2009, 06:51 PM

Great, will this also work on s13?

*NISMO_tuner* · 06-02-2009, 06:52 PM

I heard from a few people that the J30 hubs needed to be machined.
Have you road tested the hubs??
Maybe it's kinda hard for me to understand it since I haven't really taken a good look at the measurements.

Thanks for the step by step write up.

PinkPanther · 06-02-2009, 07:03 PM

since you were forced to remove the rear bearing seal, won't the grease leak out of the bearings and cause them to fail?

essforteen · 06-02-2009, 07:06 PM

The s13 hubs need to be machined because you dont use the J30 bearings you press in the s13 bearings and machine a groove for the lock ring
Look at this write up for s13
Hardtuned.net > Cheap/Safe/Easy S13 5lug front hub conversion.
mine has the ring also
Got the Hubs from a 95

*NISMO_tuner* · 06-02-2009, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by essforteen

The s13 hubs need to be machined because you dont use the J30 bearings you press in the s13 bearings and machine a groove for the lock ring
Look at this write up for s13
Hardtuned.net > Cheap/Safe/Easy S13 5lug front hub conversion.
mine has the ring also
Got the Hubs from a 95

Thats the exact answer I was looking for...
Thanks.
Let us know after the car is driven and the results.

*UNISA JECS* · 06-02-2009, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by essforteen

The s13 hubs need to be machined because you dont use the J30 bearings you press in the s13 bearings and machine a groove for the lock ring
Look at this write up for s13
Hardtuned.net > Cheap/Safe/Easy S13 5lug front hub conversion.
weird thing is my hubs did not have that retainer ring

But it appears the OP is using this on a S14 so there is no need to remove and replace bearing since the J30 and S14 have the same I.D. on the front hub shaft, therefore no machined groove needs to be made because it already held in the way it was meant to be. Different for the S13 though.

essforteen · 06-02-2009, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PinkPanther

since you were forced to remove the rear bearing seal, won't the grease leak out of the bearings and cause them to fail?

Thats kinda true but the i will over grease the bearing and the rear spacer act kinda like a seal so it doesn't bother me

The car has not been road tested because i just mocked it up on my spare shell that has no engine but will be done to my car next week!

*UNISA JECS* · 06-02-2009, 07:37 PM

Theres a better aproach to doing this that will allow you to keep the OEM bearing seal, im working on something thats very similair to this for a P11 Infiniti G20, maybe I can get some pics soon.

essforteen · 06-02-2009, 07:40 PM

the bearing seal stops the hub from siting right
but ill try that!

essforteen · 06-02-2009, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UNISA JECS

Theres a better aproach to doing this that will allow you to keep the OEM bearing seal, im working on something thats very similair to this for a P11 Infiniti G20, maybe I can get some pics soon.

i just tried what you said but the inner diameter of the seal is too small and the area where the dust shield is doesnt allow it to enter. thats why i had to remove it.

Even if i was able to use the seal the seal is ineffective if the spindle doesn't sit against it.

This is hard to explain because the j30 spindle is slightly longer and the design is slightly different

I reaally wanted to use the seal but every thing i tried failed so i was forced to remove the seal.

If any one knows how im open for new ideas!!!

*UNISA JECS* · 06-02-2009, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by essforteen

i just tried what you said but the inner diameter of the seal is too small and the area where the dust shield is doesnt allow it to enter. thats why i had to remove it.

Even if i was able to use the seal the seal is ineffective if the spindle doesn't sit against it.

This is hard to explain because the j30 spindle is slightly longer and the design is slightly different

I reaally wanted to use the seal but every thing i tried failed so i was forced to remove the seal.

If any one knows how im open for new ideas!!!

Thats why I deleted what I said, I explained it wrong but trust me there is a way that will retain the stock seal. Lemme see I think I have a spare S13 spindle I can snap a picture of its basically the same as the S14 except for shaft diameter.

essforteen · 06-02-2009, 08:05 PM

Cool Let me Know!!

*UNISA JECS* · 06-02-2009, 08:15 PM

Can you take a picture of the S14 4 lug hub and the J30 5 lug hub in the same picture? I need to see the backside where the seal goes

essforteen · 06-02-2009, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UNISA JECS

Can you take a picture of the S14 4 lug hub and the J30 5 lug hub in the same picture? I need to see the backside where the seal goes

J30 on the right

pallnet · 06-04-2009, 11:01 PM

At the moment I don't have the S14 and J30 setups in my garage to test fit but what about pressing the S14 bearings into the J30 hubs? Will the little disk seal that surrounds the S14 hub fit on the J30 hub?

Thanks
pallnet

essforteen · 06-04-2009, 11:08 PM

Thats the problem with the s14 the bearing is not removable its built into the hub!
I tried using the disk thing but the whole rear half of the bearing is attached to it
so it doesnt fit in the hub

MeanS14 · 06-05-2009, 02:26 PM

Did you use front or rear J30 hubs for this?

And will this work for the front and rear on an s14?

essforteen · 06-06-2009, 01:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MeanS14

Did you use front or rear J30 hubs for this?

And will this work for the front and rear on an s14?

The front Ones only work for the front.

You can use the rear also but the hub has to pressed out of the j30 and

pressed into the new bearing for the s14

projectRDM · 06-06-2009, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by essforteen

The front Ones only work for the front.

You can use the rear also but the hub has to pressed out of the j30 and

pressed into the new bearing for the s14

Or you use the entire upright. It bolts right on and requires no press labor. Ebrake works too, they're the same size as Z32/R32, so you can bolt Z32 rear brakes right on to the J30 upright and have functional a parking brake with just cable modification.

*Otto347* · 07-19-2009, 10:39 AM

As far as the rears go, the j30 uprights have bearing pressed in them and the s13/14 are bolt ins? Is this correct?

*Shadowhunter* · 07-19-2009, 09:53 PM

Thanks for the write up! I will be doing this soon and the more resources and pics I can look at the better.

projectRDM · 07-20-2009, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Otto347

As far as the rears go, the j30 uprights have bearing pressed in them and the s13/14 are bolt ins? Is this correct?

Correct.

message length

ilike2drive21 · 09-08-2009, 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by projectRDM

Correct.

message length

can u still use the stock calipers with the whole j30 upright?

msanchez · 10-01-2009, 07:52 PM

any news on how they do under driving condition yet?

essforteen · 10-03-2009, 12:56 PM

UPDATE:
I re did the setup using the washer that sits behind the nut and grinded the flat spots out to make it round. I did this to replace the custom washer i had to make but i had to space out the caliper a little with washers so the calipers wouldnt rub the rotors. I still used the shimms to make the hub sit tight against the nut but thats about it. ill try and update the writeup so it will show how i redid it. But ive been running this setup scince mid June and no problems thus far i even ran this set up drifting at elToro at the DAIs event. and its still running fine but i do check it often to make sure it is still tight.

msanchez · 10-03-2009, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by essforteen

UPDATE:
I re did the setup using the washer that sits behind the nut and grinded the flat spots out to make it round. I did this to replace the custom washer i had to make but i had to space out the caliper a little with washers so the calipers wouldnt rub the rotors. I still used the shimms to make the hub sit tight against the nut but thats about it. ill try and update the writeup so it will show how i redid it. But ive been running this setup scince mid June and no problems thus far i even ran this set up drifting at elToro at the DAIs event. and its still running fine but i do check it often to make sure it is still tight.

so just want to clarify because i plan on doing this this weekend. you took the lock washer from the front of the hub (behind the nut but infront of your shims) and grinded the inside to make if round and then placed it in the back of the hub as the rear spacer? is this correct? was there a problem with the original setup that made you change this? and how many shims did you have ot add to the front to be able to tighten the hub all the way down.? sorry for all the questions, i just want to make sure i do this right.
great write up by the way!
thanks in advanced!
Mike

essforteen · 10-04-2009, 01:01 AM

Yes when i got the hubs from the yard i grabbed an extra pair of the washers and grinded them down
Here is what i did
UPDATE!
I thaught of a better way to do the rear spacer because it will be harder for others to grind down the washer to make it work.

Here is a pic of what i snagged from the yard
with my hubs! I marked the parts that have to be ground down.

Here is how it looks when its done!

Now you have to grind down the inside edge of the washer to make it sit flush!

Now you can use the rear seal but its just going to be there to keep rocks out wont really be a tight seal but here is were you cut the little plastic flap.

Then do the rest of the steps i did! The hub will feel real tight at first but thats because the real seal is breaking in to the back of the knuckle. be sure to check the hub if its loose and add a shim if you need to..
And you may need to space out your calipers with a washer to clear the rotors. thats about it but ill be removing my setup soon since i found a good deal on some s14 hubs so my set up will be for sale soon!!

*irax* · 10-04-2009, 02:07 AM

it doesnt look like the abs ring needs to be removed.

06-02-2009, 06:41 PM	#1
essforteen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LAX Area (So CAL) Posts: 565 Trader Rating: (16) Rides Gallery: essforteen	J30 Hubs ON S14 The How TO (with Pics) If you own one of the unlucky s14 that are 4 lug, Read a lot about how the J30 spindles are the same diameter as the s14 so I decided to use my shell as A mock up to see if a J30 can be used as an alternative to the expensive s14 5 lug So after a lot of trial and error I think I got it covered . Why the J30 front hubs instead of the s14, they are abundant at the junk yard and Duh!! Its cheap. What you Need: Tools: 32mm, 19mm Socket chisel or sharp flat head Grinder/cut off Wheel, Parts: 2 - J30 front Hubs From any year 2 - 1 5/8” ID washers 1 – Pack of .025” thick 1 3/8” ID, 1 7/8”OD Shims (McMaster-Carr) (You will use 4 on each side and pack comes with 10) 5 lug Rotors START First remove the cap off the hub with a sharp chisel to get to the lock nut Use the 32mm socket to remove the nut The J30 hub has an ABS ring on it, that needs to be removed. Use a cut off wheel to cut a notch into the ring and use a flat head to pry it apart and the ring should slide off. The rear bearing seal is also in the way for the hub to be mounted correctly. Remove the seal with a sharp chisel. Next the spacer for the rear of the hub has to be mad Needs to be about 1/8” thick I used the 1 5/8” Inner Diameter Washer which was thick enough and cut the outside diameter to 2 ½”. I used a cutoff saw and then grinded the outside round The reason for the spacer is to make the backspacing of the hub as close to stock as it can be so the brake calipers will bolt on. Stock J30 Next place the new washer you made in back of the hub and place on the knuckle. OR You can do the following!! UPDATE! I thaught of a better way to do the rear spacer because it will be harder for others to grind down the washer to make it work. Here is a pic of what i snagged from the yard with my hubs! I marked the parts that have to be ground down. Here is how it looks when its done! Now you have to grind down the inside edge of the washer to make it sit flush! Now you can use the rear seal but its just going to be there to keep rocks out wont really be a tight seal but here is were you cut the little plastic flap. Then do the rest of the steps i did! The hub will feel real tight at first but thats because the real seal is breaking in to the back of the knuckle. be sure to check the hub if its loose and add a shim if you need to.. And you may need to space out your calipers with a washer to clear the rotors. Then pace the four shims in front of the hub Place the lock washer in front of the shims and tighten the nut Then torque to specs. Install brakes and enjoy five Lug. __________________ Last edited by essforteen; 10-04-2009 at 01:04 AM.

06-02-2009, 06:52 PM	#4
NISMO_tuner Built not Bought Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: SoCal 818/562 Posts: 1,869 Trader Rating: (51)	I heard from a few people that the J30 hubs needed to be machined. Have you road tested the hubs?? Maybe it's kinda hard for me to understand it since I haven't really taken a good look at the measurements. Thanks for the step by step write up. __________________ Check my for sale thread for S13 parts

06-02-2009, 07:06 PM	#6
essforteen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LAX Area (So CAL) Posts: 565 Trader Rating: (16) Rides Gallery: essforteen	The s13 hubs need to be machined because you dont use the J30 bearings you press in the s13 bearings and machine a groove for the lock ring Look at this write up for s13 Hardtuned.net > Cheap/Safe/Easy S13 5lug front hub conversion. mine has the ring also Got the Hubs from a 95 __________________

06-02-2009, 07:37 PM	#10
UNISA JECS Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Socal Fontana Age: 30 Posts: 2,089 Trader Rating: (24)	Theres a better aproach to doing this that will allow you to keep the OEM bearing seal, im working on something thats very similair to this for a P11 Infiniti G20, maybe I can get some pics soon. __________________ PARTS 4 SALE !! Z32 E-Brake/Parking Brake Heatshield Assemblys!!! *Rep/Feedbacks*

06-02-2009, 07:40 PM	#11
essforteen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LAX Area (So CAL) Posts: 565 Trader Rating: (16) Rides Gallery: essforteen	the bearing seal stops the hub from siting right but ill try that! __________________

06-02-2009, 06:44 PM	#2
gijoe69 Zilvia Junkie Join Date: May 2003 Location: San Francisco, CA Age: 24 Posts: 327 Trader Rating: (1)	nice write up....how long did it take u do figure it out lol

06-02-2009, 06:51 PM	#3
cured13 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Toronto Posts: 41 Trader Rating: (1)	Great, will this also work on s13?

06-02-2009, 07:03 PM	#5
PinkPanther Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Carbondale,IL Age: 23 Posts: 342 Trader Rating: (3)	since you were forced to remove the rear bearing seal, won't the grease leak out of the bearings and cause them to fail?

06-02-2009, 08:05 PM	#14
essforteen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LAX Area (So CAL) Posts: 565 Trader Rating: (16) Rides Gallery: essforteen	Cool Let me Know!! __________________

06-02-2009, 08:15 PM	#15
UNISA JECS Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Socal Fontana Age: 30 Posts: 2,089 Trader Rating: (24)	Can you take a picture of the S14 4 lug hub and the J30 5 lug hub in the same picture? I need to see the backside where the seal goes __________________ PARTS 4 SALE !! Z32 E-Brake/Parking Brake Heatshield Assemblys!!! *Rep/Feedbacks*

06-04-2009, 11:01 PM	#17
pallnet Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Louisiana Posts: 38 Trader Rating: (1)	At the moment I don't have the S14 and J30 setups in my garage to test fit but what about pressing the S14 bearings into the J30 hubs? Will the little disk seal that surrounds the S14 hub fit on the J30 hub? Thanks pallnet __________________ SPEED IS MY DRUG OF CHOICE..LET ME DRIVE..http://www.freewebs.com/pallnet/

06-04-2009, 11:08 PM	#18
essforteen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LAX Area (So CAL) Posts: 565 Trader Rating: (16) Rides Gallery: essforteen	Thats the problem with the s14 the bearing is not removable its built into the hub! I tried using the disk thing but the whole rear half of the bearing is attached to it so it doesnt fit in the hub __________________

06-05-2009, 02:26 PM	#19
MeanS14 Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Glendale, AZ Age: 21 Posts: 136 Trader Rating: (1)	Did you use front or rear J30 hubs for this? And will this work for the front and rear on an s14?

07-19-2009, 09:53 PM	#23
Shadowhunter Premium Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: San Diego,CA Age: 25 Posts: 204 Trader Rating: (0)	Thanks for the write up! I will be doing this soon and the more resources and pics I can look at the better.

10-01-2009, 07:52 PM	#26
msanchez Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Sacramento, California Posts: 17 Trader Rating: (0)	any news on how they do under driving condition yet?

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10-03-2009, 12:56 PM	#27
essforteen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LAX Area (So CAL) Posts: 565 Trader Rating: (16) Rides Gallery: essforteen	UPDATE: I re did the setup using the washer that sits behind the nut and grinded the flat spots out to make it round. I did this to replace the custom washer i had to make but i had to space out the caliper a little with washers so the calipers wouldnt rub the rotors. I still used the shimms to make the hub sit tight against the nut but thats about it. ill try and update the writeup so it will show how i redid it. But ive been running this setup scince mid June and no problems thus far i even ran this set up drifting at elToro at the DAIs event. and its still running fine but i do check it often to make sure it is still tight. __________________

10-04-2009, 01:01 AM	#29
essforteen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: LAX Area (So CAL) Posts: 565 Trader Rating: (16) Rides Gallery: essforteen	Yes when i got the hubs from the yard i grabbed an extra pair of the washers and grinded them down Here is what i did UPDATE! I thaught of a better way to do the rear spacer because it will be harder for others to grind down the washer to make it work. Here is a pic of what i snagged from the yard with my hubs! I marked the parts that have to be ground down. Here is how it looks when its done! Now you have to grind down the inside edge of the washer to make it sit flush! Now you can use the rear seal but its just going to be there to keep rocks out wont really be a tight seal but here is were you cut the little plastic flap. Then do the rest of the steps i did! The hub will feel real tight at first but thats because the real seal is breaking in to the back of the knuckle. be sure to check the hub if its loose and add a shim if you need to.. And you may need to space out your calipers with a washer to clear the rotors. thats about it but ill be removing my setup soon since i found a good deal on some s14 hubs so my set up will be for sale soon!! __________________

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