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Old 05-14-2009, 09:17 PM   1 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1
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KA Blueish white smoke

I am pretty sure it is something to do with oil because when i get out of m car sometimes it smells like burning oil. Smoke only comes out of my exhaust after i have driven for while and it is only when i leave 1st gear every other light or so. I am not loosing coolant so i figure it isnt a headgasket problem. Anyone have any ideas or had similar problems. I have KA btw.
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:19 PM   #2
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headgasket?
take radiator cap off, does it smell like gas?
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:56 PM   #3
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worn oil rings or valve seals or damage to the portion of the head gasket that seals the oil channels and allows oil into combustion chamber.
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:15 PM   #4
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headgasket?
take radiator cap off, does it smell like gas?
lolol no.


Your problem is the valve stem seals.
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So, do intercooler's replace radiators??
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Old 05-14-2009, 11:51 PM   #5
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Is there anyway i can confirm it is the valve seals. How bad is it to drive around with worn out seals?
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Old 05-15-2009, 12:00 AM   #6
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My bet is valve stem seals and/or guides. Only way to know for sure is to pull the head and remove valve springs to check valve side motion in guide. Not really that bad to drive around like that until the back of the valves get so caked with carbon that is starts affecting driveability and smog. Oh and check your oil often as to not run low.
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Old 05-15-2009, 12:06 AM   #7
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yeah i thought so. what a pain in the ass? I think i have to take smog at the end of this year to. If i seafoam it out will these clean any out any buildup.
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Old 05-15-2009, 12:23 AM   #8
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Even if you try and clean the buildup it wont allow you to pass smog, the problem is still present, it wont pass the idle test
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Old 05-15-2009, 01:48 AM   #9
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'White' smoke - usually indicates coolant related.

'Blue' smoke - usually indicates oil related.

'Blackish' smoke - is gas meaning your motor is running rich. (Or a 'white' smoke with strong gas smell).

Common problems are the Piston rings (Oil comes up), Your headgasket going out, valve is stuck open, bad plugs, MAF, bad injectors (Runs Rich or Lean) etc.
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Old 05-15-2009, 03:08 AM   #10
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I have the same problem its most likely the valve stem seals. Just replace the head, and fix up the one you replaced. I'm going to do that soon. I just need money. I'm a broke student hah.
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:39 AM   #11
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Thanks guys. Ill check the basic stuff like spark plugs, MAF and injectors. If that doesnt help check into getting a new head for an easier swap out. Whats the torque spec on spark plugs? I think its 11 lbs but not 100%.
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Old 05-15-2009, 01:20 PM   #12
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My bet is valve stem seals and/or guides. Only way to know for sure is to pull the head and remove valve springs to check valve side motion in guide. Not really that bad to drive around like that until the back of the valves get so caked with carbon that is starts affecting driveability and smog. Oh and check your oil often as to not run low.
i'm pretty sure he can do a leakdown compression test, and listen for the air leak, but i might be wrong
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Old 05-15-2009, 01:24 PM   #13
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i'm pretty sure he can do a leakdown compression test, and listen for the air leak, but i might be wrong
That's only if the valve seats are bad iirc.
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Old 05-19-2009, 11:12 AM   #14
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I forgot i have one other symptom i have. Sometimes when i go to start my car it wont start with first turn. Just nothing happens the first time at all no noise. Then the second time it turns on fine.
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Old 05-19-2009, 11:38 AM   #15
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I forgot i have one other symptom i have. Sometimes when i go to start my car it wont start with first turn. Just nothing happens the first time at all no noise. Then the second time it turns on fine.

ok sound like ur having the same problem as me. My car also dosent start the first time then the second time it doe. My car smokes the same way as urs its like they are identicle...im still tryig to find out the problem my self i been running my car for about 1 year like that already and i drift like that also no problems yet... i did a compression test and it has good compression so idk what else it can be...when my car smokes its smells really strong..
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Old 05-19-2009, 11:48 AM   #16
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ohh btw i also have a KA
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:57 PM   #17
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ok sound like ur having the same problem as me. My car also dosent start the first time then the second time it doe. My car smokes the same way as urs its like they are identicle...im still tryig to find out the problem my self i been running my car for about 1 year like that already and i drift like that also no problems yet... i did a compression test and it has good compression so idk what else it can be...when my car smokes its smells really strong..
Thats crazy man. Let me know if you figure out the problem and if i find anything out ill let you know. Maybe its the LA air. hahah jk
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:08 PM   #18
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valve stem seals.

you can do it without even pulling the head if you have an air compressor
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Old 05-19-2009, 11:47 PM   #19
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how would u do it like that
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Old 05-20-2009, 12:35 AM   #20
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you pressurize the cylinder while removing the springs to hold the valves shut and keep them from dropping into the cylinder... an oversimplistic walkthrough can be found here - http://www.ehow.com/how_2110646_repl...ls-engine.html
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Old 05-20-2009, 07:25 PM   #21
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lolol no.


Your problem is the valve stem seals.

QFT:
I have the same issue.
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Old 05-27-2009, 07:22 PM   #22
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any one has found out what the problem yet
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:43 PM   #23
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any one has found out what the problem yet

valve stem seals
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:01 PM   #24
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Either way, why go to the trouble. It needs a rebuild based on any of those conditions.
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:25 PM   #25
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Either way, why go to the trouble. It needs a rebuild based on any of those conditions.

are you saying that worn valve stem seals = full rebuild?


shit, my clutch is slipping. i must need a rebuild
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:52 PM   #26
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are you saying that worn valve stem seals = full rebuild?


shit, my clutch is slipping. i must need a rebuild
lol what he said
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Old 05-27-2009, 11:28 PM   #27
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But he is going to need to take things apart.... If you take it apart, are you just going to put valve seals in there? Where other things might go wrong as well?
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Old 05-28-2009, 12:00 AM   #28
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If you can get the seals on/off without bending the valve against the piston or dropping it I would go for it.

I would like to hear this method though, removing the valve spring?
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Old 05-28-2009, 12:21 AM   #29
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did anyone suggest piston rings?

if youre going to replace the valve seals you can do it by pressurizing each cylinder, but you need to be able to do the replacement quickly, if the valves turn, bend twisnt or anything like that you can misaline thewear on the seats and the valves wont seal
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Old 05-28-2009, 01:27 AM   #30
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did anyone suggest piston rings?

if youre going to replace the valve seals you can do it by pressurizing each cylinder, but you need to be able to do the replacement quickly, if the valves turn, bend twisnt or anything like that you can misaline thewear on the seats and the valves wont seal
??

No, I have rebuilt plenty of engines mixing the valves around, and wire wheeling the valves and cleaning the seats with solvent and had great compression.

Even when I did have new seats and cuts, I still had just wire wheeled valves mixed back in.
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