slider2828

How about at Idle def.... It stumbles a little probably without a pcv? no?

__________________
Turn and Burn!

Def

My car doesn't ever stumble. Recirculated BOV, good mechanical condition and great tune mean it drives better than stock.

I don't see why a lack of PCV valve would cause that though...

slider2828

its just sorta like an open vac source that is all... who tuned it?

__________________
Turn and Burn!

Def

There are no open vacuum sources. I just have the PCV valve capped off.

I tuned it myself.

slider2828

O you capped it off.... Lol it sounded like you just removed it and connected... Yah that works too but at low rpms, its a good source of vacuum and shouldn't accumulate oil

__________________
Turn and Burn!

S14DB

I bet your oil looks like shit when you change it.

__________________
Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact.

slider2828

You mean when running no pcv?

__________________
Turn and Burn!

S14DB

Yeah all the blow by and water has no where to go.

__________________
Comments should be taken as Opinions not as Statements of Fact.

JeremyR

i am down to get this done/buy the product/etc once its finished! i've always had problems with that stupid ass T.

__________________

slider2828

Yah that T is fucking useless.....

__________________
Turn and Burn!

timtiminy

These articles might be interesting to read considering this same issue.
Browser Warning
Browser Warning

fromxtor

^^ Concerning the "T" I have one -10 AN fitting welded in its place, it is then routed to a moroso catch can(with breather), and finally routed back to where the stock catch can is vented into the block.

__________________
Seller feedback>>http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...light=fromxtor

4x4le

Interesting. Suscribing! I hate the pcv issues with the sr and i have to be carefull as to not rout to the atmosphere in order to prevent fires due to running e-85.
This sounds like it could make my engine a little safer as well as suck in a little less oil.

__________________
www.AutoVaughnPerformance.com

slider2828

High G's on 18PSI on a very heavy altitude change course, I had 0 oil where as normal setup with crank to T to catch to Intake, I was filling up in 3-4 laps and this is the greddy large catch can..... Anyways pic will be up Monday.... there is still some work to be done... but Monday!!!



That is the altitude change you are looking at and there is a very sharp crest at the top....

Here is the other... That is top of 3rd coming over this crest and I nearly top 4th.... Not enough down force so over the crest you lose steering a little.....

__________________
Turn and Burn!

jakethesnake

anything new on this??

slider2828

Pics will be up tonight... I just landed from Vancouver yesterday, so Ima work with Luke.... So stay tuned.... Remember these will be progress pictures not like final product pics which will be on his website. Thanks for checking back.

__________________
Turn and Burn!

bejota180sx

yeah i would like to see this cause i was gonna run a catch can setup.. the simple left part of the T with a catch can in between the intake pipe and the other one still has the stock oil separator (should i keep the restrictor in the hose or remove it? cause i change hose and didn't throw away that restrictor in it in case i really need it but haven't found any useful info on that...)

__________________

s14unimog

I'm curious, are we not worried about blowing out the main seals? I'm assuming all of this comes down to you pressurizing the crank case; under WOT?

__________________
Fu*king ginger bread man stole my wallet...

SHIFTlock_slide to side

d3m3rs0n: if i have a baby im naming it Brandons Fault Emerson

Monooxide

Its about maximizing vacuum. You never want positive pressure in your crankcase.

fliprayzin240sx

What I dont get is, if your getting that much blow-by (3-4 can fulls), why are you band aiding the problem? You already know what that means, engines going down the shitter. Instead of figuring out how to lessen your blowby, you need to start saving money and get ready to rebuild the bottom end.

__________________

If you think Zilvia has too many assholes...
CLICK HERE!!!
FS: Topline Aragosta Coilover, Zenki Sideskirts/Valence and Tial V44 gate

slider2828

Ergh.... I run 18PSI on a 2871R all day on the track.... It has heavy altitude changes as seen in the picture. Ergh, I have already solved 1/2 of the problem which is complete eliminating the blowby. The engine has been full rebuilt from the ground up. Driving on the street and doing the occasional pull gives not a drop of oil in the can.... Its just on the track.....

__________________
Turn and Burn!

waynehead05

Yea but where's the pictures? Write up?

__________________
Who in their right mind would want to lead this nation of Me-First Right-Now Do Nothings??

slider2828

Ok... pics will be up one day late.... cause I was just too tired while putting on the valve cover and intake stuff back in. Was testing the setup for best results.....

So far with nothing changed except welding bung for pulling in vacuum from the catch can....

So here is a brief description of the setup....

First Phase
Blu808 welded a 90* AN fitting to the top of the valve cover and replaced the T with a 90* AN fitting as well. The AN fitting on top of the valve cover is right next to the words TWIN CAM 16VALVE right next to the "E". We modified the baffling in the valve cover to allow it to "breath" easier and suck gases from the blowby better. So from the crankcase, it goes directly into the 90* fitting that used to be the T. Then from the top of the valve cover 90* it is piped down into the catch can and the catch can to open air. Just this mod eliminated blowby and any oil into my catch can on the track. I had 0 drop of oil in the whole track section and the car felt good....

Second Phase
We finished it last night, because my Alu pipe from PipingPro didn't have a recirculate bung (BOV is circulated though), cause I didn't ask for it for the valve cover, we had to remove it and weld a bung. So now instead of having the open air side of the catch just open to atmosphere, we basically piped it back into the intake now, so the catch is a completely closed system. This part is tricky, because right now at idle it pulls about .6 more PSI at idle based on my Profec-E01 Digital gauge and idles a little higher around 100 RPM higher. From my experiences this messes with the boost settings a little when the base PSI changes a little. It is immediately noticeable that start-up is much easier and reduction in cold start RPM fluctuations which I was getting is basically gone. Now I can't tell too much yet as I haven't really driven on it except to work which is a traffic commute but when I get off work, I can drive it with a little more open road and fix my idle a little more.

Like I said pics up tonight.... But you get the idea

__________________
Turn and Burn!

bejota180sx

jum thank god i just ordered from pipingpro the intake pipe with borth recirc bungs... hope that helps me run the right system when i do my catch can setup...

and this thread is being helpful cause most flattop owners just put a catch can and call it a day...

__________________

slider2828

Yah I am still working on making sure everything is running perfectly.... But so far it runs better.... I will take it to the track in April for Laguna Seca.... But at this point all I can do is dyno it and hopefully I can do that in Feb or March.... I hope to come up with revisions to the design.... You can actually pm Blu808 and he can do all the welding and modifications to the valve cover....

(Blu808) Luke can you chime in on pricing....

Probably going to drive a little during lunch too

__________________
Turn and Burn!

blu808

Well for the pricing. I wouldn't consider this a huge "money maker" so I will do it for a really reasonable price. Say. The cost of the fittings, and like $75 for the tig welding, oil baffle modification, and prep. I can also have the valve cover powder coated or polished.

Basically here is what you would be getting.

1 -8 A/N fitting (male/compression) welded to where the stock T fitting goes.
1 -8 A/N fitting (male/compression) welded on top of the valve cover.
Oil baffle modification
Prep for welding

We can also supply you with either A/N fittings and stainless lines. Or A/N push lock nipples.

Let me know who wants to do this.

Luke

__________________

kenshinS14sks

really interested . .. but luke. . . if you're in "space" how do we get to you?

__________________
facebook.com/SodiumDanceCompany

bejota180sx

does anyone here have the answer to this question...

im running the stock oil separator, i've read i should keep it, is this correct? and also the restrictor it has on the hose going towards it, should i keep that or remove it?

__________________

slider2828

In stock form yes... With this mod no.....

It doesn't have a restrictor on the hose does it? I am not aware there was a restrictor on it... Can you take a pic.....

So in your case crank to AO separator, to T to Catch to intake..... But its not promised your catch with G's and full boost depending on turbo will fill it up.... as this is the way I had it up before....

With this mod from Luke you won't fill it up.

Here's a pic.... sorry about the quality, but from my camera phone.... Didn't have time to clean things up either, but trust me Luke's product will look good!

__________________
Turn and Burn!

Def

Nope, had any issues. My car isn't just used to go get milk at the grocery store, so the oil gets hot often enough, and the valve cover is connected to the turbo intake via a catch can which provides way more flow than the stock PCV valve.

Actually, my SR's oil stays clean forever compared to my M3's.