S14 Fusebox Relocation and Q&A thread

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by onepuff

The problem with that is you will be running your ground wires all that extra distance and it will serve no purpose. The only things you need to run ground wires any distance are the sensor wires to the ecu.

Exactly. Use the factory grounds. Use the factory pos wire too, wherever possible.

Originally Posted by onepuff

This thread has been about doing it yourself from the beginning. And how do you man up by spending $300 to have someone else do something for you. I'm sure yuri is awesome but go advertise for him somewhere else.

QFT. Yuri can post here with advice if he's such a good guy.

[Om1kron]

LOL!!! his posts will require a 10 dollar paypal deposit from us to continue reading this thread.... j/k Yuri!

[onepuff]

Got a little more done on the chassis harness. Engine bay side is pretty much done. Just gotta finish the horn and rad fan ends. As soon as I get it back in the car i can run the power to the relocated fuse box and start on the lower engine harness. It's crazy how long these wires are all layed out.




Here's how i'll be mounting the fusebox, bus bar, and relays. Got a nice big piece of 1/4" acrylic and made a top and bottom plate. Relays will be mounted on the underside of the bottom plate. Seems like it will work out pretty well.

[Om1kron]

sweet!!! mine should be here on wednesday... I was going to go with acrylic as well since that's what most pc builders use... back in my hayday of building them.

[onepuff]

Good thing you've used acrylic before so you know how GD brittle that shit is. I tried to get all fancy and shit and was gonna bend it and recess it in there. Didn't go so well LOL. Then kept breaking the corners off trying to drill the holes in it. Finally got the hang of it and i think the 2 piece setup will work out better anyway.

[Om1kron]

you have to heat it... get a heat gun and slowly bend it...

see here!

bit-tech.net | Orac³ Part 5

[onepuff]

Yea no shit Sherlock LOL. I wasn't trying to bend it with my superstrength. I heated it up nice and toasty, the problem was trying to get an S curve so I could recess it. The radius was only about an inch between the curves. I got one side done and was doing the other side and got impatient and snapped it off too short and couldn't save it. I just gave up on it and decided on the 2 piece. Anyways, I would have been PISSED if i had gotten it perfect and then snapped off a corner drilling the mounting holes. I'm sure you will show me up when you do yours.

Bending Acrylic


Breaking Acrylic


BTW that PC looks rediculous! Reminds me of the sentinel things from The Matrix.

[onepuff]

Oh yea did you see what was hiding on my coffee table in the pic above? I'll be starting a new thread in the next few days.

[Om1kron]

lol i see a belt sander and your old fusebox and silicon spray lol.

[onepuff]

Haha Look closer.

[Om1kron]

relocating your ac lines?

[onepuff]

I relocated the A/C to the trash. I live in Ohio remember LOL. Doing the brake and clutch lines.

[Om1kron]

hahahahahahaha

[Om1kron]

lol I guess there is no getting around removing your dash bar to get that fucking engine bay fuse box harness out lol summabitch!!! I'm going to be mad when I forget where all of these bolts go... lol j/k (photographic memory.) it's 80 degree's outside now, i'm currently working on yanking the harness out now so I can remove dumb shit like the horns, yada ya! Also removed the stupid ass fuel pump kill switch they had in the car before... yeah lets not make it obvious you should just pull these wires out and throw a 15amp fuse in there guys kthx...

godamned noobs... anyway.

Also sold my driver seat, now i need to figure out if I am going to go all out and buy a bride for now, a stock s14 seat, or jimmy my s13 driver seat to fit until I can afford a pair of seats i want.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

lol I guess there is no getting around removing your dash bar to get that fucking engine bay fuse box harness out

Oh, the one that runs from the F3 plug to the SMJ to the engine fuse box? I left that shit in there, just cut the wires I didn't use.

Originally Posted by Om1kron

Also sold my driver seat, now i need to figure out if I am going to go all out and buy a bride for now, a stock s14 seat, or jimmy my s13 driver seat to fit until I can afford a pair of seats i want.

"Jimmy" the s13 seat? It bolts right in. Use it, go cheap and get a seat from JXN, or save for the baller stuff - I'd say go cheap, but I'm a bang/buck guy.

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Oh, the one that runs from the F3 plug to the SMJ to the engine fuse box? I left that shit in there, just cut the wires I didn't use.

I'm sleeving it and de-pinning excess weight like sunroof shit, roof light crap, airbag stuff, yada yada yada!

I cant figure out how to take out the dash support bar lol... man oh man.

"Jimmy" the s13 seat? It bolts right in. Use it, go cheap and get a seat from JXN, or save for the baller stuff - I'd say go cheap, but I'm a bang/buck guy.

lol I bang on them bucks... sooooooooo whoooooooooooop haha j/k I have no idea what that means.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

lol I bang on them bucks... sooooooooo whoooooooooooop haha j/k I have no idea what that means.

Bang "per" buck aka "bang for the buck". I'm interested in performance/dollar with S-chassis cars, otherwise I'd be building 'vettes, or still racing literbikes.

Since the "cheap" seats function the same as Brides (maybe better since I'm not some 5'6" 100lb twerp like Brides seem to be made for) for everything except forum bragging, I'll keep rocking my $100 beat-to-shreds Momo.

[onepuff]

[quote=Om1kron;2578987]
I cant figure out how to take out the dash support bar lol... man oh man.[quote]

Pull the dash bar out from the pass. side first. You probably got some bolts left in there.

And you know you're gonna buy a Bride seat u baalllller.

[onepuff]

80 degrees huh. U guys suck LOL

[theslows13]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Exactly. Use the factory grounds. Use the factory pos wire too, wherever possible.



QFT. Yuri can post here with advice if he's such a good guy.

looking at the "wiring specialties" site under the "images of our work" section, its faaaar from impressive for the money spent. durdan and chase bays looks a thousand times better.

then again, im avidly watching this thread as im about to embark on something very similar to this in my s13. im very well versed in aftermarket (alarm, remote start, audio) wiring as ive done it professionally for years, but am timid about redoing factory wiring. maybe im overthinking it, but i really admire your guys' attacking this head on, and i will be soon to follow as soon as temps go above freezing.

[Ceepo]

This is a sick setup man, very clean i give you insane props for the patience and will power to do this, i need to go thru my harness i just bought and clean it up i love how the set up is for the interiour and engine bay harness, mad props dude!!!

[Om1kron]

man it was completely unnecessary to remove that dash bar... oh well. I got the interior harness and engine bay body harness separated, and it's upstairs sitting in a glorious pile of fail. Going to take a shower and then get my hands dirty again ripping off all of the electric tape and gunk and labeling the items...

My fuse box thing should be here wednesday... I didn't end up buying a bus bar like you onepuff, why are you using that again?

[onepuff]

I will have a 2AWG wire running to it from the battery. Then it will branch off to the driver's side fuse box, dash bar fuse box, alternator,starter, relays, etc. As soon as i run these brake and clutch lines inside the car i can put the dash bar back on and finish up the wiring stuff. Might be a lil' bit before i make any more progress on the wiring though.

[Om1kron]

ah I see said the blind man.

[GSXRJJordan]

... as he picked up a hammer and saw.

Buss bar's the same as a distribution block - you'll need something to that effect to split the big batt cable to the starter/alt/fuse box unless your little fuse block ring terminal can take that huge cable.

That's what she said?

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

... as he picked up a hammer and saw.

Buss bar's the same as a distribution block - you'll need something to that effect to split the big batt cable to the starter/alt/fuse box unless your little fuse block ring terminal can take that huge cable.

That's what she said?

thats why i'll have the distribution block that takes 1/0ga that splits into two 4ga wires. =)

[Yuri]

Just reminding everyone that I am not the wiring specialties Yuri.
So please stop pm'ing me.
Take my advice on wiring and it will burn your car to the ground.
I suck at it.

[onepuff]

Originally Posted by Yuri

Just reminding everyone that I am not the wiring specialties Yuri.
So please stop pm'ing me.
Take my advice on wiring and it will burn your car to the ground.
I suck at it.

LMAO! That's good to know. I saw ur name and expected to see u tryin to start some shit or something.

[onepuff]

Thought of "Yuri" when i saw this. LOL

electrical problems...help: RB20 / RB25 / RB26 Forum: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by Monooxide

The relays are freaking amazing. They are super high-quality and you can get mounting tabs for them, like you see in my pics. Also these relays have the pin for Normally Closed.

You can get them here: Board Relays from AEI Components

You would need the following parts to make ONE relay that interconnected to a relay beside it.

-1x BRSPT - Interconnecting Bracket
-1x BRS14E - Pre-Wired Relay Socket
-1x BU5083W - 40A Relay

You would then need to de-pin the Pre-Wire Relay and insert the wires with terminals into the Interconnecting Bracket.

I have put these things through the test haha, my ECU came with a preset of some sort of duty cycle signal and I buzzed the hell out of one or two of the relays for over a minute. I then got it all settled away so theyre used from everything from Fans and VTC to Headlights.