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Old 01-11-2009, 02:11 PM   #91
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this seems to be boggling my mind as of late... originally my power setup consisted of the positive battery cable coming all the way from the trunk, straight to the fusebox... there was a junction that cable attached to which both wires seem to go into the 100amp fuse in the fuse box.

Obviously if I run a 100 amp inline fuse this would eliminate the 100 amp fuse in the box. but still to not sure what to do about the 75 and 45 amp fuses... inline again? much less how to connect all of them...
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Old 01-11-2009, 03:05 PM   #92
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Why would you need a 75a and 45a fuse?

The fuse box has 30a fusible links for the big stuff, and fuses for the rest - the reason you'd want to run an inline fuse in addition to the one in the trunk is because the 4ga wire that's carrying that 100a runs through your cabin, so you want it fused sooner rather than later (closer to the battery).

The part you didn't mention was the starter - in OE config, it gets an unfused 4ga wire for power to the motor.
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Old 01-11-2009, 03:09 PM   #93
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Ok so you're 75 amp fuse is going to run from here.


To here.



And you're 45 Amp fuse is going to run from here.


Through here(just to show you how to follow the FSM)


To here.


So to summarize yes you can just run 2 more inline fuses after the 100 amp fuse. Luckily(for wiring purposes at least) i have the base model so i only have a 75 amp fusable link to replicate.
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Old 01-11-2009, 03:12 PM   #94
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Bastard trying to beat me to the punch while I'm posting pics and stuff.

I'm guessing Omikron has an SE model which has the 75 and 45 amp fuse links in the stock box. Base model just has 1 75 amp link and a few smaller 30 amp ones.
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Old 01-11-2009, 05:49 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onepuff View Post
Bastard trying to beat me to the punch while I'm posting pics and stuff.

I'm guessing Omikron has an SE model which has the 75 and 45 amp fuse links in the stock box. Base model just has 1 75 amp link and a few smaller 30 amp ones.
correct!!! we seriously need to OCR* all of the online pdf manuals so you can run a damn word search in them.



(optical character recognition)
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Old 01-11-2009, 05:57 PM   #96
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Oh yea you see i stepped up my drawring game for '09. MS paint baby!
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:07 PM   #97
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I guess just reading all of that stuff I have no idea what the hell the fuses power or are "fusing" lol. I'm a retard when it comes to electronics and fuses.
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:21 PM   #98
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Gonna have to make a Power Supply Diagram comprehension for dummies thread i think.
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:24 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onepuff View Post
Gonna have to make a Power Supply Diagram comprehension for dummies thread i think.
i just don't understand the nissan one... maybe because I cant really flip through that whole chapter of the manual.

I can read honda tables just fine.
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Old 01-12-2009, 03:37 AM   #100
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here was a helpful thread I found a while back and have subscribed to.

Chassis Rewiring

also here is my original battery relocation thread... which I cross reference with this post, i'm just trying to figure out how the fuck I'm getting 0/1GA wire to the starter from the battery.

Battery Relocation Process and Recommendation!
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Old 01-12-2009, 05:40 AM   #101
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I think you're doin serious overkill running 1/0 wire. I could understand if you had a 500 cubic inch V8 with a blower or something but our 2.0's are not gonna need to pull that many amps for long enough to have a problem. You should be fine with 2AWG. Use 1AWG if u don't think u will be able to sleep at night but 1/0AWG is a little much.
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Old 01-12-2009, 09:07 AM   #102
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my car will eat babies!!!

also future additions will be a racepak gauge cluster, various sensors, hks evc, apex power fc, pioneer avic touch screen double din radio... maybe an amp and some nice in car speakers, who knows.
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Old 01-12-2009, 01:13 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96Turbo View Post
ugh........i thought i explained it well the first time. as far as i can see you don't need to confuse yourself with distribution blocks etc

2 gauge [ battery to starter]
4 gauge [ starter to alternator]
8 gauge [ alternator to plug that usually attaches straight to the + terminal under the hood]
Alright... to clarify the use of a distribution block to make it more understandable for those who still cant comprehend...

0/1 gauge [battery to firewall distribution block] {+ battery terminal will have 100amp fuse}
4 gauge [distribution block to fuse panel in dashboard] {+ wire to fuse panel will have 75 amp fuse in block}
4 gauge [distribution block from firewall to starter]
8 gauge [from starter to alternator]


The distribution block will act as a super multiple junction if I am correct and the charge from the alternator will route right back to the + wire on the starter which in turn should be going back to the distribution block. Which in turn that should be going to the fuse box and sending + power back to the battery.

As far as the 45 amp fuse, not too sure what to do with that just yet.
Correct me if I am wrong.
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Old 01-12-2009, 02:46 PM   #104
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Lookin good so far
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Old 01-12-2009, 02:52 PM   #105
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well with the afs fuses it seems that 80amp is the closest to 75amps i'm going to get... shouldn't hamper things I assume.
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Old 01-12-2009, 02:53 PM   #106
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Nope, 80a will be fine. DO IT. Do It. do it.
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Old 01-12-2009, 02:58 PM   #107
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I have to wait until wednesday to upgrade my photobucket account, haha... once I do I'll post update pictures and a screenshot of this crutchfield cart... jesus almost at 300 dollars.
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Old 01-13-2009, 10:07 AM   #108
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Hey onepuff... does the fuse block come with any instructions or is it a pretty straight forward deal... all of the positive power comes from the battery cable running up the charge strip going down the middle, and all of the "circuit" or "relay" wires run off of the tab next to the fuses?

I guess the only reason I ask is I am having some trouble deciphering which wires are grounds...

So far I flipped through the el section of the service manual yesterday and printed out the nissan color key for the wires so I wrote down the color of every wire last night and I have figured out most of the fuse box key's (like a map key) on the bottom of FSM...

man this stuff can get pretty damned confusing when trying to re-invent the wheel eh lol.
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Old 01-13-2009, 03:49 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Om1kron View Post
I guess the only reason I ask is I am having some trouble deciphering which wires are grounds...
Only the +12V side is fused... the grounds come off the individual devices, and usually meet in groups that are all crimped to a ring terminal, then bolted to the dash support/frame/etc. You should know what the grounds look like, they're almost all black with the pink/beige "dots" - definitely different than black/pink stripe.
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Old 01-13-2009, 03:50 PM   #110
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Sorry but which grounds are u talking about? There are no grounds on the fuseblock unless you get one with a negative bus. I don't think it's necessary as the car is a big ground. If you were using one of these in a boat u might need one with a negative bus.
If you are trying to figure out which wires are grounds in the FSM. They are the ones with the 3 parallel lines(each one shorter going down).
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Old 01-13-2009, 03:51 PM   #111
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so the wire with those fucking dots are grounds? I know about the individual device grounds but lets not talk about those and focus on the fusebox lol.
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Old 01-13-2009, 04:11 PM   #112
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Fuseblock with ground bus
Blue Sea 5031 ST Blade Fuse Block w/out Cover - 12 Circuit w/ Negative Bus

Fuseblock without ground bus
Blue Sea 5029 ST Blade Fuse Block w/Cover - 12 Circuit w/out Negative Bus - 5029 - Buy.com
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Old 01-13-2009, 04:15 PM   #113
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the second one looks clean as hell, but the first one would be a bit more useful imo. that way you can run your 12+v power to the fuses and all of the - to the secondary bus and run a single ground from that to the dash bar.
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Old 01-13-2009, 05:34 PM   #114
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The problem with that is you will be running your ground wires all that extra distance and it will serve no purpose. The only things you need to run ground wires any distance are the sensor wires to the ecu.
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:16 AM   #115
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So I'm gonna throw on about 5 layers of clothes and run down to Summit to get some 10AWG wire to finish up the chassis harness. May even get it back in the car. Also gonna get some 3/16 tubing for the brake lines. Not sure how much I'll get done in the garage(the jet heater will prob be running constantly). It's umm -4F right now going for a high of 6 yes 6F. I don't even want to think about the wind chill.
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Old 01-16-2009, 11:29 AM   #116
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fuck I hate your weather... I spent a month in st. Paul minnesota back in 07....

JANUARY of 07... -6 with a -12 windchill... I had no idea wtf any of that shit meant since i'm from california, I was like oh big deal it's snow... Just like in california mountains...

until I walked a mile in it...

IT IS NOT JUST SNOW!!! The feeling you get when your body comes to temperature is indescribable, it's like your body is on fire from under your skin and you start profusely sweating and getting the shakes...

NEVER AGAIN!
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Old 01-16-2009, 02:33 PM   #117
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Yea the wind is a biatch. At least i'm not driving my 240 in this shit. And it has given me the excuse to tear my car apart and do all this shit that i would probably never do otherwise.

Bought this super gay mobile off a co-worker for $400. Warner Brothers Edition at that LOL. Only needed about $200 worth of work. Pulled out the back seats so I can haul shit around like an air compressor, cherry picker, etc. It's awesome in the snow and my horse/dog loves it.Kind of embarassing to drive it but i'm getting some attention from the MILFS. Ha!



Here's my beast. Started out pretty small.










I do have some perfect murder weapons here too if anyone pisses me off LOL.
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Old 01-16-2009, 02:49 PM   #118
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dude spend the 300 bucks to send it to SR20DET Wiring Secialties yuri is an awsome guy will help you out alot he's race proven and if you end up wanted to wire things in the future he's more than willin to help you out over the phone so man up and do it
Quote:
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Theory and Discussion post.

Here is the inside of the fusebox on an s14



I have an s13 SR20DET Redtop I am putting in my 1996 Zenki 240sx I obviously will have to change some of the plugs on the lower harness here it looks like.

Here is the KA24DE lower harness.



E205 will be matted to the frame rail.
E204 goes to E18 (which I have no idea wtf that is yet)
E201 goes to E17 - (manual Transmission Models)
E203 goes to E16 - Non applicable since this is not an AT model car.)
E202 goes to E19 - (still looking this up)
E206 goes to the positive battery terminal (which will be inside of the car)



This kinda tells me nothing since I don't know what the fuck "c2, c3, A2, etc" stand for so I don't know what I'm looking for. Mind you I'm using pdf manuals so that kinda hampers my ability to just flip through pages and stumble upon anything.

Now this is the sr20det lower harness.



E206 = 205 from earlier (OBVIOUSLY)

E203 SR20(looks like it could be E201 KA24DE)
E202 SR20(looks like E203 KA24DE)
E201 SR20 (looks like E202 KA24DE)

All previously were running in a usdm s13, and do not look the same as anything on the KA24 lower harness which obvisly may or maynot create some problems for me fusebox wise, not too sure. I think I still have the lower harness to the KA24 at my house so I will have to lay it all out and figure this out later.

Obviously I searched, my gripe is I am relocating the fusebox to the inside of the car. And I'll probably have more info on my gripes when I get into the process of such.

But if anyone knows of any modifications I need to make on the lower harness or how they dealt with the engine bay fuse box plugs when they did a fusebox relocation I would be more than glad to hear your input.

If you tell me to search on fusebox relocation, I hope before you even think of clicking submit that you have read the threads covering this that either have non working photos from photobucket, blurry cell phone cam pics of peoples shitty wiring not explaining how any of the plugs still function, or any breakdown besides "i took the fuse box apart and pulled it through the cabin and hung it with zipties, tada"

that you have read what I just typed, because that information is fucking unicorn is far as I am concerned. So I am trying to make this an easy process for myself, and in the process share some information for those of you looking to do this in the future.

Thank you for your input folks.
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Old 01-16-2009, 02:53 PM   #119
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it wasn't really necessary to quote all of that... as far as Yuri goes.. yeah I'll do it myself kthx. I'm sure he does great work, but what happens when my car gets fucked up, can he mail himself to my house to check anything for me? NO!

I do it, I fuck it up, I know how to fix it.
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Old 01-16-2009, 03:20 PM   #120
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dude spend the 300 bucks to send it to SR20DET Wiring Secialties yuri is an awsome guy will help you out alot he's race proven and if you end up wanted to wire things in the future he's more than willin to help you out over the phone so man up and do it
This thread has been about doing it yourself from the beginning. And how do you man up by spending $300 to have someone else do something for you. I'm sure yuri is awesome but go advertise for him somewhere else.

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