S14 Fusebox Relocation and Q&A thread

[vaughn4]

hey man good luck.. seems like your on the right track. i just have to finish my headlamp wiring. everything is working great. i have been taking some pictures and documenting the progress.

[Om1kron]

Ordered some more junk to sleeve the headlight harness and the fusebox. I think I will separate it and make the AC its own system. Just need to figure out which fan relay went to the ac fan and which one didn't.

[SuicidnS13]

There is some good info in this thread - subscirbing!

[Om1kron]

alright, so I pretty much drew out my power layout on the car... any discrepancies (and yes bardabe I am running a circuit breaker, no inline fuses it will be ok.)

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

alright, so I pretty much drew out my power layout on the car... any discrepancies (and yes bardabe I am running a circuit breaker, no inline fuses it will be ok.)

PLEASE don't use a circuit breaker, especially not a self-resetting one. 200A? WTF?!?

Your main fuse needs to be 100A tops, unless you're running some ridiculous sound system, in which case your SR's little 80A alternator isn't gonna cut it. 200A?!? Seriously might as well not use a fuse.

The battery's CCA rating has nothing to do with that, just so you're clear on that, too... it can't shove more current into the system than the system requires, and the starter should be pulling <80A.

The rest of your diagram looks normal - be careful bringing the 4GA (or 1/0GA?) main wire into the cabin if you're running it below the car (which is a bad idea), because if it rubs anything you'll never know until something is on fire.

Lastly, keep your grounds short (18" tops), and use the same size wire for grounds as +12V, this will keep heat down. Actual battery posts welded to the frame work best, because crimping large wire (esp 1/0 ga) to a ring terminal usually doesn't cut it (the wire pulls out of the crimp more often than not).

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

PLEASE don't use a circuit breaker, especially not a self-resetting one. 200A? WTF?!?

Your main fuse needs to be 100A tops, unless you're running some ridiculous sound system, in which case your SR's little 80A alternator isn't gonna cut it. 200A?!? Seriously might as well not use a fuse.

The battery's CCA rating has nothing to do with that, just so you're clear on that, too... it can't shove more current into the system than the system requires, and the starter should be pulling <80A.

The rest of your diagram looks normal - be careful bringing the 4GA (or 1/0GA?) main wire into the cabin if you're running it below the car (which is a bad idea), because if it rubs anything you'll never know until something is on fire.

Lastly, keep your grounds short (18" tops), and use the same size wire for grounds as +12V, this will keep heat down. Actual battery posts welded to the frame work best, because crimping large wire (esp 1/0 ga) to a ring terminal usually doesn't cut it (the wire pulls out of the crimp more often than not).

cant rub anything if there is a grommet on there. and vaughn 4 isn't having a problem with his circuit breaker.

just an fyi on honda's the secondary 02 sensor goes to the exaust through the shift column tunnel from the interior.

don't see how I would have a problem with that coming up from the floor where the clutch valve box or whatever it is, is.

and I don't run a fuse on my setup now. never had a problem with the car exploding or setting on fire. as far as crimping... I don't crimp shit, will fill the terminals up with flux core while in a vise, and heat it with a torch and dip in said wire end. no crimping in 09!!!

[GSXRJJordan]

Circuit breakers are electrically noisy (plan on installing a sound system?), that and the fact that they don't always work is why no one uses them - tolerances on fuses are way tighter (about 10x tighter), so when you pick a fuse size, you can be pretty sure it's going to blow at +- 1%... breaker is like +- 10%, and usually +. That can be bad.

No fuse + the battery being inside the passenger cabin is straight dumb. Fires happen, and it's one thing in the engine bay, but if you get rear-ended and that positive wire catches the body anywhere, you'll find out exactly how much fire 4ga wire can start before it burns up. Please don't skimp out on dumb shit, fuses and fuse holders are like $10 shipped @ partsexpress.com. They even have fused battery terminals, and fused distribution blocks.

[Om1kron]

ok sound system shit aside, where can I buy phoenix gold then, if you can find me their fused battery terminal and their negative battery terminal, for you Jeff Jordan I wont run a breaker.

Although there are plenty of set up's using them without a problem!

anyway for you guys thinking you have to crimp your end connectors, fear no more... You can get a propane torch (disposable) for like 10-15 bucks from lowes, or home depot.

vise grip to hold the object you're going to heat, and use these neat little things.

Click on Battery Terminal Slugs

Big boy solder!

no corroded half ass connections.

[GSXRJJordan]

That's pretty cool. But the fused batt terminals are better/safer ~

Parts Express:StreetWires BC2PF Fused Battery Clamp (+) AFS Type

[Om1kron]

Yes but I'm talking about the wires that will be running directly to the starter, and the alternator which in turn should be charging the battery... that have terminal ring connectors on them.

[onepuff]

Just got these in today. Gotta get some aluminum or some kind of metal to make a mounting plate for them to go in the dash where the airbag was. Thanks Vaughn4 for that idea.
http://www.smarterbike.net/servlet/t...MiniBus/Detail
http://www.smarterbike.net/servlet/t...5034-ST/Detail




Here's some pics of the engine harness almost done. Gotta get some new injector clips to get that part finished. This is for a RB20DET by the way.










Relocated the ignitor to reside under the dash. I'm running V6 Buick Coils also.



Om1kron can your girl come clean this mess up for me? I saw she likes to use the Hoover. J/K

[onepuff]

Oh yea here's my 4th grade drawring.

[Om1kron]

we should step our game up in 09 and use crayons...

[GSXRJJordan]

Hahaha nice. I'm going to start using computer drawings just to shut you guys up.

[rbpowerds14]

ok bump on this thread

im in the process of doing the harness relocation on my track car. is there anything i need to look out for? i want to remove as much as possiable from the harness(ac) are there things that need to stay?
thank you

[onepuff]

Depends on what you want to keep. Is it strictly a track car? My car was an automatic so i pulled out all that wiring. AC, P/S, fog light wiring(Gone). Do you have ABS or theft? I have a base model so i didn't have to worry about that stuff. I just kept headlights, turn and marker lights, horns, rad fans, wiper washer(if it's gonna be on the street not needed if your just gonna track it), and brake fluid level(not necessarily needed either). I think that's all i gutted. Got a nice sized box of wiring from all that.

Here's what's left going into the engine bay minus wiring for the rad fans(need to get some more wire I'm thinking of just running a single 10AWG wire to run both fans 14" & 12", should be safe with that.) There's about 20 wires left.




Here's what is going to run to the fuse block and bus bar in the passenger side dash.



Just need to get the rad fan wiring run and i can loom this up.

[rbpowerds14]

ok awsome, my car to is a base model(s14) it was auto but its been converted to 5-speed. i have no need for ac shit/horn/and the stock fan relays, my main concern is , sice i want to remove this stuff do i just trace the wire back to the "SMJ" and depin it? or are there wires that need to be jumped? i dont want to remove something that has power feeding something eles! im pretty intellagent but i would like some people with experience in this to chime in! thanks!

[Om1kron]

just an fyi... if you're running a hood release cable on your car, try to loom it up in your driver side fender harness wiring so you can eliminate two seperate wire paths to the engine bay. Will also kill the thief getting into your fenderwell to snip the hood release cable, if they do manage to snip it some how, they just disabled your car =)

[onepuff]

Originally Posted by rbpowerds14

ok awsome, my car to is a base model(s14) it was auto but its been converted to 5-speed. i have no need for ac shit/horn/and the stock fan relays, my main concern is , sice i want to remove this stuff do i just trace the wire back to the "SMJ" and depin it? or are there wires that need to be jumped? i dont want to remove something that has power feeding something eles! im pretty intellagent but i would like some people with experience in this to chime in! thanks!

Yea you can just depin them from the SMJ. Just spend some time studying the FSM and you're basically gonna want to copy how the MT model wiring is run. Here's a couple pics of the SMJ that show how you're gonna need to pull out these "locks" to depin the wires.






Ok so i worked 3rd shift at the hospital and it was kinda slow and I had this monster with me so I got to thinking. (Damn more money)



Hmmm looks pretty tempting



Gonna order these up






Hopefully it will look kinda like this and make pulling the engine REAL easy.



Om1kron

Great idea about the hood release cable although i may just get those AeroCatch hood latches they look veddy nice.

[onepuff]

Another reason for doing the connectors is so i can get rid of the extra length of the JDM harness wires currently just looped and wrapped in electrical tape.



Oh yea

.......you know you're getting fat when your belly shows up when your taking pictures of stuff on the floor LOL

[Inlandsilvia]

Wow, you really cleaned up the engine bay harness. I am in the process of doing mine now. My is also a auto engine bay harness that needs to be converted over. I was wondering once you remove the locks from the SMJ how do you remove the wires from SMJ itself? Thank you in advance.

[rbpowerds14]

[quote=onepuff;2547622]Yea you can just depin them from the SMJ. Just spend some time studying the FSM and you're basically gonna want to copy how the MT model wiring is run. Here's a couple pics of the SMJ that show how you're gonna need to pull out these "locks" to depin the wires.quote] thank you thats all i really need to know

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by Inlandsilvia

Wow, you really cleaned up the engine bay harness. I am in the process of doing mine now. My is also a auto engine bay harness that needs to be converted over. I was wondering once you remove the locks from the SMJ how do you remove the wires from SMJ itself? Thank you in advance.

Make sure to quote whole posts with pictures on the same page they're posted on for redundancy, kthx...

And I have the aero catch hood latches, I like them a lot but I would also like a secondary failsafe just in case. Also I did the same thing with my harness (taping extra wire to the side)

here is everything I removed before I shortened it and re-loomed it.



before


after


SIMONE & CHLOE A LABOUR OF LOVE: Converting an S13 SR20 Redtop Harness to fit a 1996 240sx

[onepuff]

Originally Posted by Inlandsilvia

Wow, you really cleaned up the engine bay harness. I am in the process of doing mine now. My is also a auto engine bay harness that needs to be converted over. I was wondering once you remove the locks from the SMJ how do you remove the wires from SMJ itself? Thank you in advance.

Yea you're gonna want to use this maneuver.



Just look at the empty slots and you should see the little plastic piece that hooks onto the metal pin and holds them in. I just yanked them out and didn't break anything but do it the right way dammit. There is enough play with the locks removed that they come out pretty easily with some muscle.

[onepuff]

Also if you can't tell i'm lovin my new camera i got for Christmas. Canon Powershot A590IS. $110 shipped. NewEgg FTW

[yokotavia]

alright ive read over your build thread two times, and you've motivated me to deloom my interior harness and remove the unneeded wires/plugs.
in my new build, ive removed, ac/heater, seatbelts, rear speakers, power windows, power locks, and hicas.
just really want to clean up that harness a bit

so its as easy as following the wires back from the connector to the SMJ and depinning it?

amazing wiring you and onepuff have accomplished, shit is gnarly

[Om1kron]

pretty much... haha I'll agree how amazing it is when I go to start my car and have no problems hahaha.

My interior harness stuff is on hold at the moment since I had to get more hardware for the engine and am trying to save up money to move, not to mention that 1200 I'll need for my masa-motorsports aero bonnet for the s14...

Next weekend is ka24de day... =(

[Inlandsilvia]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

Make sure to quote whole posts with pictures on the same page they're posted on for redundancy, kthx...

Don't worry...I forgot to remove the part of the post that wasn't needed. Thanks for pointing it out to me.

[Om1kron]

it's ok just giving you shit.

[onepuff]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

pretty much... haha I'll agree how amazing it is when I go to start my car and have no problems hahaha.

werd Hope mine starts right up too