S14 Fusebox Relocation and Q&A thread

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Imagine you're the A/C control guy - now picture a bright ass day, with tons of sun hitting the dash - you're gonna throw that A/C on full, because you know that as you cool the air in the cabin, the sun's gonna heat it up. In order to get it cool in the amount of time you're supposed to cool it in, you gotta do major work.

Now think it's night time, but Om1kron's fappin in the car at the drive in... same internal temp (hypothetically), but no "sun load" - the A/C doesn't have to come on as hard for as long to get the temps down in the same amount of time.

DCC is so baller.

I now see why sam at Jspec sells the dcc unit for 70 bucks with a cut harness. And offers the install at 350 dollars...

I would do this again for someone, if they would pay that kind of money for the work, because seriously with all of the testing you have to do to make sure everything works.

It's worth the money.

Is it worth it for the conversion...

fuck no.

I prey for the day someone tries to break into my car to try and steal it. LOL!!!

Now that all of the wires are different colors, and without the sensors, the fucking unit is useless.

[weissguy]

So wait, does the sensor actually detect fapping?

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by weissguy

So wait, does the sensor actually detect fapping?

so far it doesn't seem like it, because I fap to my installed interior now and it doesn't seem to do anything but throw an error code because it doesn't feel the sun.

just jizz.

[weissguy]

hmmm fap fap fap

[GSXRJJordan]

Lol the joke was that the interior temp would be high, without the sun being out.

Sun load does not detect teh fappn. You're free to fap without the car monitoring it.

[DALAZ_68]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

I now see why sam at Jspec sells the dcc unit for 70 bucks with a cut harness. And offers the install at 350 dollars...

I would do this again for someone, if they would pay that kind of money for the work, because seriously with all of the testing you have to do to make sure everything works.

It's worth the money.

Is it worth it for the conversion...

fuck no.

I prey for the day someone tries to break into my car to try and steal it. LOL!!!

Now that all of the wires are different colors, and without the sensors, the fucking unit is useless.

and that my big issue with tackling the s13 DCC...looks like just as much PIA wiring...and taking off the dash on the DD would mean i might aswell install the new s14 carpet...so much at once...

but ima give it a try...

none theless babe...good shit...do u still need that vent motor i have waiting for you?

[onepuff]

A little update on mine. Got a little patch panel welded in where the AC lines were. Who needs AC in Ohio anyway. Plus some asshole drilled 2 holes in the firewall below the AC lines for some power wire for an amp in the trunk. No idea who could have done that.



Got the Souriau connector mounted to the patch panel. Should look pretty good after everything is painted up.

[Om1kron]

nice! I think I am going to write a little clarified how to for mine. Now that it's all said and done.

[whatbrokethistime]

this thread kicks ass. lets see some more progress!

[reflexdb]

Read through this whole thread this morning. Lot's of good info. I'm just starting to build my wire harness now for my S14. My goal is the cleanest, lightest and most simple wire harness possible. The vehicle will be used mostly on the track, but I want to retain headlight/taillight/turn signal functions so it can be driven on the street as well.

Plans so far are:
Remove all HVAC-related circuits (that system won't be going back into the vehicle)
Remove all Audio circuits (same as HVAC)
Relocate fuses into cabin (shorten circuits, keep engine bay as clean as possible)
Pass all engine circuits through one wire-to-wire connector for easy engine removal/install (for future SR20 modding - it's being installed in stock form for now)
Replace ghetto wiring of Kouki lighting from 4 years ago. (i.e. solder and heat shrink instead of butt splices...I was so ignorant!)

And so it begins...
Picasa Web Albums - gskoff

Any updates from you experienced guys for encouragement?

[Om1kron]

actually i'm in the final stages of my build. My fusebox was done months ago, although I have a problem with one set of the wires.

apparently your power window fuse is in your engine bay fuse box. (makes no fucking sense to me.) somewhere along the lines I crossed that with a ground so my power mirrors did not work. I have temporarily ghetto rigged it until I pull the dash again.

Right now my concentration is body work.

[S13Saul]

So no joke, I just read through all 12 pages during work, and Im in aww, shit is so amazingly clean.

I need/want to do this, but I cant fork up any more downtime and Im gonna be done with my swap this week hopefully.Once I get a daily, Im deff doing this.

I need help with my wiring guys, I have the sr harness, and I have my kouki ka harness, would any of you guys have the diagram, or know of anywhere I can get it from online? wiring is the only thing I need left to do on my swap, and the guy who was gonna help me with it told me I would have to wait about a week or so, and I honestly cant wait too much longer.

btw Om1kron, I have one of the VRT stickers on my back windshield. lol

-Javi (under my little brother s/n @ work)

[reflexdb]

Made some progress today...removed all of the HVAC and Audio circuits from the main cabin harness. Still have plenty of work to do, but my plans are coming together. I need the fuse panel so I can remove the engine bay fuse box and complete the engine room cabin harness. And I need to order gauges so I can integrate those circuits into the main cabin harness.

HVAC/Audio removed:
Picasa Web Albums - gskoff

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by S13Saul

I need help with my wiring guys, I have the sr harness, and I have my kouki ka harness, would any of you guys have the diagram, or know of anywhere I can get it from online? wiring is the only thing I need left to do on my swap, and the guy who was gonna help me with it told me I would have to wait about a week or so, and I honestly cant wait too much longer.

you can go to my blog Simone : My 1996 240sx and search around in the december archives I think it is for all of the wiring harness stuff, or do a search on zilvia for the wiring you're looking for and it should have the link right to the blog post.

[onepuff]

Mine is getting close to firing up once again. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks. ECU has power, fuel pump primes, windows, lights, etc. all work. Took me a minute to figure out why my fuel pump wasn't priming. Turns out my Ostrich eprom emulator's batteries were dead. Got my DIF fan controller in today so I can get the rad fan's wired up. Need to get my horn wired up and run the wiring for boost controller, turbo timer, wideband, and oh yea the MAC MINI.

[onepuff]

So I was getting around to testing the horn and the fucker didn't work. The other day when I put my steering column back in I fucked up and didn't check the number of rotations so when i turned the steering wheel all the way in one direction I heard a pop. I hoped nothing broke but apparantly it did. I looked around to see how much a new one would be and needless to say it cost about as much as a cheap turbo. $700+ on one dealer website. Did some google work and found this.

Repairing the clockspring. Ick. - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

Seemed simple enough and I have the tools to do the job. Here is the clock spring all assembled.


It wasn't TOO hard to pull it apart. Just had to be a little careful to not break the plastic. There is a center ring that will need to be pulled off first. Once that is out there are 3 little clips on the side. Pry those out a little and pull the top off.

Here you can see where the ribbon cable has broken off the connector.





And here it is after a little solder work.


Put it back together and stuck it back in the car and BEEEEEEEPPP!!!!!
Horn works again yay! Saved myself a few bucks for an hour or so of work.

[nsn240]

Little off topic... Anyone have the LABELED pinout of the 89 SMJ?
I can only find it as just a number pinout but no wire ID

[Om1kron]

Bump this back up, help the man out fellas. This was the point of this thread.

Main sizing is

3/8th for most of the harness, 3/4th for the larger things like coil pack sub harness and such, and 1/8th for like injector wiring or if you're running any gauges you want to sleeve it's sensor wiring.

Heat shrink is about the same deal, I prefer 2:1 shrink ratio shit 3/8th is pretty good 3/4th's is normally to big and anything slightly bigger than 1/8th since I suck at fractions...

hope this helps...

this shit is expensive, I believe I used the dr-25 the fire retardant shit. Doesn't matter either way I'm going to re-do it eventually with raychem heat shrink and joints and a quick disconnect once I get the rest of my shit done.

Originally Posted by speedfiend

Hey man sorry to bother you again. I was just looking through supplies that I need to grab to dive into this project and had a couple questions. I know this was answered in the thread but I dont feel like scanning back through the 40 something pages between the two threads hahahah. Anyways I was looking on the techflex website at the different braided sleeving. Was wondering which brand you went with and what were the sizes you picked up? I know it was like 3 basic sizes just cant remember. Also what was the common sizes you used with the heatshrink? I think there were also only 3 general sizes on that. I am thinking about going with the dr-25 heatshrink that another member on freshalloy suggested. But that shit is expensive. Gotta pay to play I guess hahahah. Thanx, Cameron

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

Bump this back up, help the man out fellas. This was the point of this thread.

Main sizing is

3/8th for most of the harness, 3/4th for the larger things like coil pack sub harness and such, and 1/8th for like injector wiring or if you're running any gauges you want to sleeve it's sensor wiring.

Heat shrink is about the same deal, I prefer 2:1 shrink ratio shit 3/8th is pretty good 3/4th's is normally to big and anything slightly bigger than 1/8th since I suck at fractions...

hope this helps...

this shit is expensive, I believe I used the dr-25 the fire retardant shit. Doesn't matter either way I'm going to re-do it eventually with raychem heat shrink and joints and a quick disconnect once I get the rest of my shit done.

I use Mil-spec flame retardant expandable sleeving, Techflex makes a good one if you don't mind the white tracer ~ I only used the 1/4" and 3/8" spools (1/4" expands to about 1/2", 3/8" expands to about 3/4") even though I have 1/2" and 3/4" on deck just in case... the cool thing about tucking while you loom is that you eliminate excess and keep wire wraps nice and small - not to mention Mil-spec ETFE ("Tefzel") wire is much skinnier than PVC insulated wire, so you're able to fit more wire in a given bundle size.

As far as adhesive heat shrink, I have a bunch of "abrasion-resistant" Mil-spec stuff but don't like to use it unless I have to ~ I tend to use the 3M or Raychem commercial stuff because it bends better and shrinks a little more, which pulls the loom tight... not to mention, it's about 1/3 the price.

DR25 is the standard for automotive apps, but it's not actually known for being fire retardant, it's chemical retardant (DR actually stood for Diesel Resistant in the beginning, so the story goes) ~ it's good for about 300*C if I remember correctly, which is plenty, but what makes it special is that it's chemically inert.

Camaro pics from SEMA will show the wiring work I did on it, and should spawn some good discussion. Teasers (sorry, no interior shots yet):

[Om1kron]

haha you suck at image resizing jeff. jesus.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

haha you suck at image resizing jeff. jesus.

I have them resized at 1000px max automatically, but decided to host the full sizers instead, so you could oogle my pimpness in more detail.

Besides, all the new browsers auto-resize once you're done downloading my 2mb pics right? lol

[xdumbxguyx]

semi tucked my brakelines and clutch line


rebent my ac line

[alex_s817]

didnt know this thread existed, definitely would have helped me with mine...

pulled the dash of course


took the fuse box out, cut the wires at the firewall plug




there were a lot of extra wire




labeled every wire and loosened things up so i could "hang" the wires from the fuse box without tangles


starting to mock everything up




setting up the headlight wiring
















headlight wiring coming through



fuse box mounted









everything works, i pretty much wired it exactly like factory, only in a different spot. i may have done it differently had i seen this thread but o well i guess, im not about to re-do it haha

[driver11324]

This is the final outcome of my relocation.

(I havent taken a picture of the fusebox with the dash on, but its very nice when its all put together)

This is a very old picture, wires have been cleaned up

[onepuff]

You didn't just leave it like that did you?

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by onepuff

You didn't just leave it like that did you?

hahahahhaha I'm sure he didn't otherwise he will get voltage drops like a mofo.

[alex_s817]

hah no of course not lol. i ended up tightening down the red one to the post and moved the clear one (for the alternator and starter) to the right spot where the labeled tape is, because it cleared the ac ducting better when the dash went back in.

i ran that clear 2 gauge to the starter, and then another cable from the starter to the alternator. this should be ok right? i figure each is never working when the other is, so it should be alright?
thanks

[Om1kron]

yeah, it's just a loop of + power so it would be pointless to make a "PHYSICAL" loop of power, that's how my shit is.

[speedfiend]

Thanx a lot for the info guys. Im still tossing around the idea of just cleaning up the oem wiring or going the full custom fuse/relay box route. I guess I will make that decision once I get the harnesses stripped down and see exactly what im working with. Either way I will be posting my progress here as I go.
Cameron

[alex_s817]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

yeah, it's just a loop of + power so it would be pointless to make a "PHYSICAL" loop of power, that's how my shit is.

ok cool thats what i thought but its not running yet so im not actually sure. can anyone tell me what wires/plug the alternator wires go to on the fusebox? like the plug from the alternator, not the big gauge power wire. thanks