opponheimer

Don't run a filter relocater if you don't need to, they are not necessary IMO.






5.25" Diameter Go-Kart 12VDC fan!!! 200cfm... ran it to rad fan power, but you may just want to run something like this to a oil thermostat switch.






If you don't get one of these, (thermostatic oil filter housings) you may want to say bye bye motor again (if you live anywhere that gets extremely cold.)

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GSXRJJordan

Have you ever tried to get to an SR's oil filter? Lol, for the price of a decent meal I could never have to fuck up my hands reaching down there to get the filter off? Yes please.

You could get a Greddy dist block/thermo and say bye bye to ~$500... or you can get a relocation kit from Summit ($80), a core ($50), and an inline thermo ($100) with some AN fittings ($20) and then have a trackday to go along with the pride of putting it together yourself.

Or move to a place like socal, where quite a few of us run no thermo (but keep an eye on my oil w/gauge).

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opponheimer

WTH you talking bout? that greddy thing i got was for $90 from 240sxmotoring, the rest of the kit is the generic eBay oil cooler kit with a NICE cooler and 3 -10 stainless lines and other housings too (i didnt use) for $120 on eBay..

With the greddy sandwich it will space the filter out on an SR about 2" further, making it way easier to access..

I've had many many many many sr'd 240s fyi and never had an issue with reaching the filter

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singlecamslam

I use the tomei block, it goes from block to filter than to a earls thermostat. So its filtered while it cold and when it warms up the thermo opens and goes to the cooler, easy.

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GSXRJJordan

Oh, I thought you bought the whole kit - for $90, I'd get a Greddy thermo too, shit that's how much the "generic" ones go for.

+1 for Oppen

I thought he was talking about a block/thermo in one unit... yeah SingleCam's got the right idea here.

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LongGrain

it gets cold where i live (duh) but i dont drive the car in the cold. it will most likely never see temps under 30 degrees.

i'm still planning to run an in-line filter and no thermostat, i may or may not cover the cooler for daily driving/cooler days.

my setup:

Stance oil block adapter (similar to tomei) -10
earls in-line -10 oil filter (cleanable/reusable)
earls 16 row -10 cooler

the cooler is smaller than i thought it would be, but that might be a good thing on a semi-daily driven car, I think it will do its job, but wont be overkill for what i'm doing.

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GSXRJJordan

The big difference in cooling comes from no cooler->small cooler - the difference from small cooler to large cooler isn't NEARLY as big.

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opponheimer

yeah,, a larger cooler is more of a burden too because you have fitment issues like a bitch...


IE look what i had to do to my turn signal:









I don't think I'll daily drive the car with the turn signal in on hot days so i'll get better flow to the oil cooler...

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GSXRJJordan

Creative lol ~ with the S14, I haven't had any issues like that (my cooler's in the same place).

As far as air flow, I don't have temp gauges set up before and after the cooler to read temps, but it doesn't seem like airflow changes oil temps nearly as much as ambient temp does. I thought about getting a NACA duct for the bumper like this one for hot high-speed track days, and just blocking it off the rest of the time:

Discovery Parts - Small Air Duct For Bumper Spoiler SPA-D107

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opponheimer

that looks pretty cool, may look into that, i wonder how itll look on zenki front...

oh yeah, i kept wiper fluid reservoir thats why the oil cooler is so pushed forward

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Slammed180

Does anybody know of a set-up to use on the CA18?
I've looked around and seen Greddy kits for ~$800 and ARC kits for ~$1300 for the CA.
There has to be a cheaper solution.

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GSXRJJordan

As long as you find the oil filter thread pitch/size, you can make your own just like I did for my SR. Total cost for relocation and cooler with fittings was like $140, add a thermo for another $100 or so.

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Slammed180

I have a Grex oil filter relocation for my CA.
It's apparently a universal Nissan application. RB/SR/CA. According to the person I bought it off of.
Can anyone confirm that CA and SR are the same?

Edit: I think I figured it out.
CA is 3/4 UNF -16
S13 SR is the same right?
S14/15 SR is M20x1.5

If that's true I can use an SR oil filter relocation/cooler set-up on my CA.

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awesomenick

i KNOW that CA's and KA's can share filters.

I've never seen an SR's filter though.

ryangreg

I use tinfoil to cover my oil cooler on highway cruises at night, or in the cooler fall/spring months here in New England.

Thermostat for an oil cooler is an absolute must for cars driven in the snowy winter months etc....

Slammed180

I don't drive my car in weather below 5* C. So not too worried about a thermostat.

Can anyone confirm what I found about S13 SR Oil filter thread pitch being 3/4 UNF -16?

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WagDatto

Alright, quick question. I'm getting one of the Skull and Bones oil block setups (thanks again, guys, can't wait!), an RX-7 oil cooler and an in-line Earl's filter (-8AN to match the rest).

From what research I've done, the RX7 cooler has a built in thermostat that will only direct oil through the cooler at XXX*, and otherwise bypass it straight around the thermostat and through the outlet line.

Now, this is the first time I've done any oil cooler/redirected setup. To my understanding, outlet FROM block goes to INLET on oil cooler. Out from oil cooler to inlet on oil filter... Out from oil filter, in to block?

OR would I go from block to filter to cooler to block?

And a quick explanation why I'd route it which way would be awesome. I've read through the whole thread, and probably overlooked the question (since the OP wasn't answered).

Also, would you suggest I keep or remove the RX7 thermostat and replace it with something else (assuming it works properly)? I'll be welding -8AN fittings onto the cooler, and the S&B block is -8AN fittings.

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LongGrain

filter goes on the OUT line, so you dont have a bunch of nasty unfiltered oil going through your cooler

engine OUT -> filter -> cooler IN -> cooler OUT -> engine IN

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WagDatto

Thanks for the quick reply! Original plan was for remote filter... but in-line will make things super easy and way cleaner I think.

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singlecamslam

I think i would rather stick to a remote filter, thats just my opinion. But like longrain said, from the relocation block, to the filter, than to cooler, back to engine, you want the oil to get filtered before it goes into the cooler.

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awesomenick

I have a few questions about this stuff. Probably stupid ones.

When you mount your oil cooler, do you have to do it in a way that the lines will drain when you change your oil? Or do you just let the dirty oil stay in it?

Are the inline filters as "good" as normal ones?

I mean, I've seen the system1 kind, but other than that I haven't seen much but "prefilters."

LongGrain

i would assume so, earls makes quality products, i trust them to make an adequate filter..

as for any other brands i cannot say.

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awesomenick

Just checking..

Earl's Performance 230308ERL - Earl's Performance Screen-Type Inline Oil Filters - summitracing.com

Are those the ones you're thinking of? I don't know anything about these, but I just assumed they weren't enough of a filter to replace the "normal" kind, and that's why they were calling them "pre-filters." But I've assumed some pretty stupid stuff before.

GSXRJJordan

If you're asking what's best, a "normal" filter is best - they have a relief valve for one (so if something takes a shit and a little piece of gasket or something gets into the oil, your oil system doesn't get clogged up) and every race car I've ever seen (that actually gets raced) has one or two "normal" type filters on it.

As far as what's "interesting" or "different", inline might be cool. I don't know why, I'm just biased against it - I'd suggest asking Earl's (store #1 is here in LA, call them) or Summit and see what they think.

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jr_ss

You're never going to get all the old oil out of the cooler unless it has a drain or one of the lines that connects to it connects on the bottom or lower side of the cooler that could be popped off.

Now that you mention it, I'll probably mount mine so one of the inlet/outlets is at the bottom so I can pull it off, to drain it every once in awhile.

It's not that big of a deal though, considering most kits hold maybe a quart of oil throughout the entire system. I think that 4 or 5 fresh quarts will dilute the old oil pretty well I would imagine.

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GSXRJJordan

My oil cooler added approx 1/2 quart of overall capacity, with relocation and cooler. If you've ever taken an oil pan off (after supposedly "draining all the oil out") you'll know that you never get every last drop of oil out - and THAT'S OK!

... unless you just had a rod bearing shred itself to pieces, then you'll want to drop the pan/remove the cooler/flush everything, just so that shit isn't recirculating in your new engine.

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LongGrain

maybe you guys were right.

ive been doing a lot of reading about the in-line filters and until now i didnt see any problem. but i just found a description on holley's website that says they should be used as a "pre-filter"

does this mean that they should NOT be used as a primary filter?

if thats the case i'm just going to stick with a conventional filter setup...

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awesomenick

The System1 filters seem like they could handle the job. I don't think they're described as "pre filters" either.

jr_ss

A prefilter will probably be a less micron rating, allowing smaller piece through. I wouldn't use something described as a "prefilter" as my primary. That's asking for problems.

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dori_sil8t

fram makes a filter wrap thats magnetic. summit racing sells em i cant seem to find it tho on the web site.

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