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Old 11-13-2008, 06:12 PM   #1
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s13 EGR Problem.. Need Help! PLZZ

Well Ive been getting a constant Check Engine Light on a OBD1 92 Nissan 240sx KA24de Hatchback. Everytime the check engine light comes on... It throws the Code Blinking Light of Codes 32 - Knock Sensor and Code 34 EGR Vavle...

Today I took off the EGR Vavle completly.... And sprayed the damn thing with 2 cans of Brake Wash.. Put it back on... Reset the code... and after 10 miles of Driving... Boom! thiers the light again.

I dont understand why Code 32 comes on but it only comes on when Code 34 comes on.... My Question is.. I heard thiers a way to Block off the EGR Vavle with a plate you can buy from Ebay... But How about the Check Engine Light?... Also read something about buying a simple Diode from radioshack that will trick the sensor.... But How do you do this?

Can Anyone run me through the steps of Blocking off the EGR Vavle and were to put this Transitor/Diode so the light dont come on?
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:28 PM   #2
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super easy just did mine with no need to remove the IM.

1st, cut the EGR pipe that goes to the exhaust mani about 1 inch from the m24x1.5 plug. I usually do that right after the car was turned off, and put a candle on the threads of the EGR plug/bolt. Wait about an hour and break that baby loose after you cut the pipe.

-Grab 2 nickles, put them in the hole and torque the bolt shut.

-On the IM side, remove both EGR valves, do the 1st one closest to the head, then after you have unbolted all the vac line brackets you can attack the main EGR. You will have to wiggle that out.

I then took a 100kohm 1/4watt resistor and cut the wires at the EGR temp sensor, and crimped the resister to connect both wires.

Then with the block off (3 bolt plate preferably) remove the Egr valve, and get some hondabond and coat it up. torque the bolts to 5lbs/ft. there should be 3 lines on the back of the head you should cap.

make sure you dont remove or unplug the egr / canister solenoid, it will throw code 104 or 105 If i remember.

replace the probably cracked FPR hose.

done.
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Old 11-13-2008, 06:56 PM   #3
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just a heads up
Code 34 would NOT trigger CEL
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Old 11-13-2008, 07:12 PM   #4
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Code 34 will not light up the CEL, but it will be stored when most EGR codes are triggered, along with 10 thousand other things.

AKA ignore code 34 for a while, a fart could set it off.

Code 32 could be from a cracked EGR pipe, or a vac leak, hell even a cracked/leaking exhaust manifold near the head.

I removed mine and because my whole EGR system was leaking the throttle response/MPG improvements was astounding. Most of that is because of the cracked EGR pipe which affects the o2 sensors readings.
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Old 11-14-2008, 05:33 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigsyke View Post
super easy just did mine with no need to remove the IM.

1st, cut the EGR pipe that goes to the exhaust mani about 1 inch from the m24x1.5 plug. I usually do that right after the car was turned off, and put a candle on the threads of the EGR plug/bolt. Wait about an hour and break that baby loose after you cut the pipe.

-Grab 2 nickles, put them in the hole and torque the bolt shut.

-On the IM side, remove both EGR valves, do the 1st one closest to the head, then after you have unbolted all the vac line brackets you can attack the main EGR. You will have to wiggle that out.

I then took a 100kohm 1/4watt resistor and cut the wires at the EGR temp sensor, and crimped the resister to connect both wires.

Then with the block off (3 bolt plate preferably) remove the Egr valve, and get some hondabond and coat it up. torque the bolts to 5lbs/ft. there should be 3 lines on the back of the head you should cap.

make sure you dont remove or unplug the egr / canister solenoid, it will throw code 104 or 105 If i remember.

replace the probably cracked FPR hose.

done.
Your DA MAN!

Quick Questions. On the Exhaust Mani side.. That EGR Pipe, Would it be the same thing If I can get a short Bolt and put some thread locker on it to block off that hole? To preserve my pipe from cutting
And Also... weres that dang Temp Sensor?.. Basically splice the wires to the resistor or can I jump the Connectors with the resistor?

Thx for all the help
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Old 11-14-2008, 11:05 AM   #6
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No you have to cut the pipe and use the end, unless you can get an m24x1.5 bolt, which is pretty hard. Nissan sells the plug however for around $8, then you dont need to cut the pipe.

And the temp sensor is directly between intake manifold runners 2 and 3. Its a sensor thats threaded into the lower IM.

resistor should be soldered to each end of the EGR temp sensors harness
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Old 11-14-2008, 05:55 PM   #7
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When I pulled the motors out of both of my S13's they both had the same 90° rubber tube that had gone bad (looked like it had blown out, presumably from heat) on the rats nest of emissions related stuff that gets bolted to the back side of the cylinder head. It's been a long time but I remember it being somewhere in line to the EGR system, but not going directly to the EGR valve itself. I'd have never noticed it with the motor in the car.

before removing the egr system and and possibly not passing the NoX part of an emissions test, it might be worth at least using a telescoping mirror to take a look behind the head for any bad vacuum lines.
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Old 11-14-2008, 08:59 PM   #8
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When I pulled the motors out of both of my S13's they both had the same 90° rubber tube that had gone bad (looked like it had blown out, presumably from heat) on the rats nest of emissions related stuff that gets bolted to the back side of the cylinder head. It's been a long time but I remember it being somewhere in line to the EGR system, but not going directly to the EGR valve itself. I'd have never noticed it with the motor in the car.

before removing the egr system and and possibly not passing the NoX part of an emissions test, it might be worth at least using a telescoping mirror to take a look behind the head for any bad vacuum lines.
definitely check the egr rubber hoses and the gaskets. they are nortorious for cracking. when I had my KA it always threw the egr code but after I replaced those hoses it never came back. it will only cost you a couple of dollars instead to replace them.
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Old 11-14-2008, 10:25 PM   #9
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anyone have a pic of that 90° bend hose?
like location and all that?
thanks
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Old 09-29-2009, 03:40 AM   #10
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If you block off the EGR; you will use so much gas--you will want to restore it the way it was.
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:20 AM   #11
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anyone have a pic of that 90° bend hose?
like location and all that?
thanks
Comes off the bottom of the EGR-C BPT valve. It's also slightly larger in diameter than the other hoses, pretty hard to miss if you feel around back there.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:04 PM   #12
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If you block off the EGR; you will use so much gas--you will want to restore it the way it was.

Wierd, Ive had mine bypassed for a year and im still getting the EPA's suggested 21/27mpg
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Old 09-29-2009, 11:50 PM   #13
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Wierd, Ive had mine bypassed for a year and im still getting the EPA's suggested 21/27mpg
+1. "miklos" obviously has other problems, removing the EGR does not affect fuel mileage at all, at least not enough to notice.
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:36 AM   #14
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My mechanic told me many people come to him to restore the egr because they are using too much gas. I never tried it.
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Old 09-30-2009, 12:48 AM   #15
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My mechanic told me many people come to him to restore the egr because they are using too much gas. I never tried it.
He's misinformed. My daily driver LS400 has no EGR and has had no change in mileage. My 240s from the past and current as well as numerous customers' cars are the same way. It's true the combustion chamber may run a bit hotter, but not enough to burn excess fuel unless there's another problem as well.
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Old 10-01-2009, 07:27 PM   #16
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Its probably because your throwing a code3 34 for KS and now your running pig rich?
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Old 10-01-2009, 09:46 PM   #17
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The reason is that the 1989-90 ECU in the 240sx is set to run with the EGR. A Lexus or any car without an EGR has a different ECU profile. If you remove the EGR in an early 240sx; you need to reprogram the ECU.
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Old 10-02-2009, 12:30 AM   #18
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So is all other ka's, thats why you use a 100k resistor on the EGR temp sensor.
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Old 10-02-2009, 05:33 AM   #19
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The reason is that the 1989-90 ECU in the 240sx is set to run with the EGR. A Lexus or any car without an EGR has a different ECU profile. If you remove the EGR in an early 240sx; you need to reprogram the ECU.
Um, no. All 240s with the KA are equipped with EGR, as was my Lexus. I removed it, same as my both 240s and other cars I have worked on.

There is no reprogramming of the ECU required. It's a self learning computer and would require more than just plugging in a laptop anyway to make changes to the fuel maps.
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