no power to dash, windows, locks, etc HELP - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

devonkyle77 · 10-05-2008, 12:54 PM

so i have all but completed my s14 sr swap and i went to turn the key to the on position to check and see if lights, windows, locks, etc work and they dont.

when i turn the key back off i hear a PSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS noise from the gas tank area, so i assume its pressure being released or the fuel pump. so i would assume thats getting power?
the battery is brand new, i cant figure this out, ughhhhhhhhhhh

please help guys, and as always, thanks in advance.

*fliprayzin240sx* · 10-05-2008, 01:07 PM

Check the main chassis fuse under the hood...

s13_kidd · 10-05-2008, 01:10 PM

same shit happened to me!
its the fusible link...yepp
umm 18 bucks at nissan or you can get it a a junk yard wayy cheaper

renegade_ewok · 10-05-2008, 01:15 PM

Check all relays/fuses - something probably popped.

Whenever I would play with wiring I ended up popping something out of stupidity (ignition fuse always got me...)

devonkyle77 · 10-05-2008, 01:36 PM

sure enough, it was the 100A FL.
the only one that doesnt have a tab to push to pull it out. how the hell do i get this thing out?

projectRDM · 10-05-2008, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by devonkyle77

sure enough, it was the 100A FL.
the only one that doesnt have a tab to push to pull it out. how the hell do i get this thing out?

Unbolt it, there's an M6 bolt on either side of the box inside. You can buy new fusible links that are slotted so you just have to loosen the bolts instead of removing them.

s13_kidd · 10-05-2008, 02:48 PM

no WTF?

i pulled mine out with my hands...hmm weird
pull harder..haha

devonkyle77 · 10-05-2008, 02:58 PM

i got it out, what a bitch that was. now if only nissan dealership parts department was open on sunday, ugh

s13_kidd · 10-05-2008, 03:05 PM

you say you have a 100a fuse?
mine came with a 75a fuse...and that was $18 at nissan
im pretty sure you can start your car right?

projectRDM · 10-05-2008, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s13_kidd

you say you have a 100a fuse?
mine came with a 75a fuse...and that was $18 at nissan
im pretty sure you can start your car right?

S13s have a 75A main, for S14s it's 100A. Different car kid, pay attention.

*fliprayzin240sx* · 10-05-2008, 07:18 PM

Haha, Russ beat me to it. Anyways Devon, just in case it pops again, that usually means your alternator is fried or your wiring is fubar'd.

projectRDM · 10-05-2008, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx

Haha, Russ beat me to it. Anyways Devon, just in case it pops again, that usually means your alternator is fried or your wiring is fubar'd.

True. Check for correct alternator connections, like the plastic insulator being in place on the charge lead and the charge lead/ground lead not being mixed up. Seems someone does one of those two things once a day on here.

devonkyle77 · 10-06-2008, 03:59 PM

everything looks legit, but sure enough, it popped again as soon as i put the negative terminal back on the battery.
i swear i am running out of patience with this car.

*NemeGuero* · 10-06-2008, 04:36 PM

You're overdrawing somewhere, meaning you have a bad connection. Bust out a multimeter and the FSM and check resistances across terminals.

Its probably easier then that but I don't have much experience with it. Just be systematic in how you test.

Or you could just unplug things one at a time and keep replacing the fuse till it doesn't pop anymore. Once it stops blowing you've found what is wired improperly..

except you might run through a few fuses.

devonkyle77 · 10-06-2008, 04:41 PM

that sounds like a lot of fuses.

projectRDM · 10-06-2008, 05:07 PM

Disconnect the alternator lead and try again.

devonkyle77 · 10-06-2008, 05:52 PM

i took some pics, not sure if this shows you anything

Deftec · 10-06-2008, 07:29 PM

put the 3rd to last pic wire on a better ground.

devonkyle77 · 10-06-2008, 07:32 PM

the ground for the maf?
you really think thats the issue?

*fliprayzin240sx* · 10-06-2008, 08:18 PM

I cant see pix but i'd try what russ said first. Take the alternator out of the loop since thats more than likely whats causing it to pop. Either the ground on it is fucked up or the alternator is just shorted out. Nothing on your system should be able to pop that fuse but the alternator.

projectRDM · 10-06-2008, 09:20 PM

True. Anything else will just blow the smaller 75A, or lesser. Do this though before you go any further, unplug the ECU. It's highly unlikely the short will go through anything but you don't want to risk the ECU.

Disconnect the lead on the alternator, either on the charging stud or in the fusebox, it's the lead that bolts to the stud right beside the 100A fuse. Try another fuse, if it does not blow that's the culprit, the charging lead itself or the alternator.

The MAF ground has nothing to do with your problem.

devonkyle77 · 10-07-2008, 04:02 PM

ok russ i think i follow

exactly what u said would happen, correct?

projectRDM · 10-07-2008, 05:41 PM

Bingo. Problem is either the charging lead is grounded to the case of the alternator or the alternator is bad.

devonkyle77 · 10-07-2008, 05:49 PM

ok great. so obviously i check the charging lead first.
problem is, i dont even know what the hell a charging lead is, what it looks like, or what to do with it.

i suck.

*NemeGuero* · 10-07-2008, 06:15 PM

Trace that wiring. Make sure its only connecting in the 2 places it should be. Make sure your alternator has a proper ground wire on it.

DONE.

projectRDM · 10-08-2008, 01:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by devonkyle77

ok great. so obviously i check the charging lead first.
problem is, i dont even know what the hell a charging lead is, what it looks like, or what to do with it.

i suck.

You piss ass fuck. The wire that bolted to that stud goes straight to the stud on the alternator. That's the charging lead. Dammit you making me post when I'm drunk.

zugoi · 10-08-2008, 01:23 AM

Its ok Rdm i post drunk all the time. Its just your more right then me about 100% of the time. For now.

*Tearlessj* · 10-08-2008, 01:32 AM

I dont know if this is your problem, but it solved my issue. The big wire that goes to the alternator with the red cap on it should not be touching the alternator housing. There should be a piece of plastic in between, mine broke off during the swap and I figured it out after 3 fuses.

devonkyle77 · 10-08-2008, 08:06 AM

the wire that bolted to that stud looks like it just goes to the negative terminal though...

projectRDM · 10-08-2008, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by devonkyle77

the wire that bolted to that stud looks like it just goes to the negative terminal though...

Well shit man, think about what you just said. A wire coming off the positive battery lead, fused at 100A, is going to the negative terminal of the battery. How would that NOT blow?

That lead, the charging lead, the one bolted to the fusebox stud, goes directly to the plastic insulated stud on the alternator. It does not go to ground. There's a ground lead also on the alternator, it bolts behind the fusebox on the shock tower and comes off the alternator case, on the backside of it. If you have those reversed like I suggested earlier you're sending the entire 100A of current directly to ground.

10-05-2008, 12:54 PM	#1
devonkyle77 Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: md Age: 25 Posts: 3,102 Trader Rating: (3) Rides Gallery: devonkyle77	no power to dash, windows, locks, etc HELP so i have all but completed my s14 sr swap and i went to turn the key to the on position to check and see if lights, windows, locks, etc work and they dont. when i turn the key back off i hear a PSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS noise from the gas tank area, so i assume its pressure being released or the fuel pump. so i would assume thats getting power? the battery is brand new, i cant figure this out, ughhhhhhhhhhh please help guys, and as always, thanks in advance.

10-05-2008, 01:07 PM	#2
fliprayzin240sx SLINKY + ESCULATOR = Fun Times Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Ass Crack of Japan Posts: 8,810 Trader Rating: (8) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx	Check the main chassis fuse under the hood... __________________

10-05-2008, 07:18 PM	#11
fliprayzin240sx SLINKY + ESCULATOR = Fun Times Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Ass Crack of Japan Posts: 8,810 Trader Rating: (8) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx	Haha, Russ beat me to it. Anyways Devon, just in case it pops again, that usually means your alternator is fried or your wiring is fubar'd. __________________

10-06-2008, 04:36 PM	#14
NemeGuero No more nissan. Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Southern Califaztlan Age: 25 Posts: 8,284 Trader Rating: (10) Rides Gallery: NemeGuero	You're overdrawing somewhere, meaning you have a bad connection. Bust out a multimeter and the FSM and check resistances across terminals. Its probably easier then that but I don't have much experience with it. Just be systematic in how you test. Or you could just unplug things one at a time and keep replacing the fuse till it doesn't pop anymore. Once it stops blowing you've found what is wired improperly.. except you might run through a few fuses. __________________

10-06-2008, 05:07 PM	#16
projectRDM Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Atlanta Age: 36 Posts: 13,493 Trader Rating: (12)	Disconnect the alternator lead and try again. __________________ FORMERLY R240NA Learn what's really going on and protect your assets now before they're gone forever: www.paypalsucks.com

10-05-2008, 01:10 PM	#3
s13_kidd Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: paramount ca Age: 20 Posts: 476 Trader Rating: (3)	same shit happened to me! its the fusible link...yepp umm 18 bucks at nissan or you can get it a a junk yard wayy cheaper

10-05-2008, 01:15 PM	#4
renegade_ewok Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: State College, PA Age: 22 Posts: 326 Trader Rating: (0)	Check all relays/fuses - something probably popped. Whenever I would play with wiring I ended up popping something out of stupidity (ignition fuse always got me...)

10-05-2008, 01:36 PM	#5
devonkyle77 Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: md Age: 25 Posts: 3,102 Trader Rating: (3) Rides Gallery: devonkyle77	sure enough, it was the 100A FL. the only one that doesnt have a tab to push to pull it out. how the hell do i get this thing out?

10-05-2008, 02:48 PM	#7
s13_kidd Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: paramount ca Age: 20 Posts: 476 Trader Rating: (3)	no WTF? i pulled mine out with my hands...hmm weird pull harder..haha

10-05-2008, 02:58 PM	#8
devonkyle77 Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: md Age: 25 Posts: 3,102 Trader Rating: (3) Rides Gallery: devonkyle77	i got it out, what a bitch that was. now if only nissan dealership parts department was open on sunday, ugh

10-05-2008, 03:05 PM	#9
s13_kidd Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: paramount ca Age: 20 Posts: 476 Trader Rating: (3)	you say you have a 100a fuse? mine came with a 75a fuse...and that was $18 at nissan im pretty sure you can start your car right?

10-06-2008, 03:59 PM	#13
devonkyle77 Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: md Age: 25 Posts: 3,102 Trader Rating: (3) Rides Gallery: devonkyle77	everything looks legit, but sure enough, it popped again as soon as i put the negative terminal back on the battery. i swear i am running out of patience with this car.

10-06-2008, 04:41 PM	#15
devonkyle77 Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: md Age: 25 Posts: 3,102 Trader Rating: (3) Rides Gallery: devonkyle77	that sounds like a lot of fuses.

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10-06-2008, 05:52 PM	#17
devonkyle77 Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: md Age: 25 Posts: 3,102 Trader Rating: (3) Rides Gallery: devonkyle77	i took some pics, not sure if this shows you anything

10-06-2008, 07:29 PM	#18
Deftec Zilvia Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: ks Posts: 260 Trader Rating: (0)	put the 3rd to last pic wire on a better ground.

10-06-2008, 07:32 PM	#19
devonkyle77 Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: md Age: 25 Posts: 3,102 Trader Rating: (3) Rides Gallery: devonkyle77	the ground for the maf? you really think thats the issue?

10-06-2008, 08:18 PM	#20
fliprayzin240sx SLINKY + ESCULATOR = Fun Times Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Ass Crack of Japan Posts: 8,810 Trader Rating: (8) Rides Gallery: fliprayzin240sx	I cant see pix but i'd try what russ said first. Take the alternator out of the loop since thats more than likely whats causing it to pop. Either the ground on it is fucked up or the alternator is just shorted out. Nothing on your system should be able to pop that fuse but the alternator. __________________

10-06-2008, 09:20 PM	#21
projectRDM Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Atlanta Age: 36 Posts: 13,493 Trader Rating: (12)	True. Anything else will just blow the smaller 75A, or lesser. Do this though before you go any further, unplug the ECU. It's highly unlikely the short will go through anything but you don't want to risk the ECU. Disconnect the lead on the alternator, either on the charging stud or in the fusebox, it's the lead that bolts to the stud right beside the 100A fuse. Try another fuse, if it does not blow that's the culprit, the charging lead itself or the alternator. The MAF ground has nothing to do with your problem. __________________ FORMERLY R240NA Learn what's really going on and protect your assets now before they're gone forever: www.paypalsucks.com

10-07-2008, 04:02 PM	#22
devonkyle77 Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: md Age: 25 Posts: 3,102 Trader Rating: (3) Rides Gallery: devonkyle77	ok russ i think i follow exactly what u said would happen, correct?

10-07-2008, 05:41 PM	#23
projectRDM Post Whore! Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Atlanta Age: 36 Posts: 13,493 Trader Rating: (12)	Bingo. Problem is either the charging lead is grounded to the case of the alternator or the alternator is bad. __________________ FORMERLY R240NA Learn what's really going on and protect your assets now before they're gone forever: www.paypalsucks.com

10-07-2008, 05:49 PM	#24
devonkyle77 Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: md Age: 25 Posts: 3,102 Trader Rating: (3) Rides Gallery: devonkyle77	ok great. so obviously i check the charging lead first. problem is, i dont even know what the hell a charging lead is, what it looks like, or what to do with it. i suck.

10-07-2008, 06:15 PM	#25
NemeGuero No more nissan. Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Southern Califaztlan Age: 25 Posts: 8,284 Trader Rating: (10) Rides Gallery: NemeGuero	Trace that wiring. Make sure its only connecting in the 2 places it should be. Make sure your alternator has a proper ground wire on it. DONE. __________________

10-08-2008, 01:23 AM	#27
zugoi Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Bay area Posts: 548 Trader Rating: (0)	Its ok Rdm i post drunk all the time. Its just your more right then me about 100% of the time. For now. __________________ Drunk posting FTW!

10-08-2008, 01:32 AM	#28
Tearlessj Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Memphis Age: 18 Posts: 1,377 Trader Rating: (2)	I dont know if this is your problem, but it solved my issue. The big wire that goes to the alternator with the red cap on it should not be touching the alternator housing. There should be a piece of plastic in between, mine broke off during the swap and I figured it out after 3 fuses. __________________ Nagasaki Motors Friends help you move. Real friends help you move bodies.

10-08-2008, 08:06 AM	#29
devonkyle77 Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: md Age: 25 Posts: 3,102 Trader Rating: (3) Rides Gallery: devonkyle77	the wire that bolted to that stud looks like it just goes to the negative terminal though...

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