twastheglow

Ok. So I saw everything that he removed. But he also had his motor out for all that. I, unfortunately, don't have that luxury. I'm just looking to cap the egr (correctly) and get the car running with the rest of the emissions intact I guess. At some point however, I wouldn't mind pulling off the intake manifold and cleaning it all up. Maybe sometime over winter. But until then, I just want to drive my car. That's why I'm trying to get the rest of this worked out. But it just seems that I'm not as proficient as a lot of you. That's why I'm asking for help. Unfortunately, again, I don't have anyone or any shops local that can help me troubleshoot and answer the questions that I have.
*mike*

techn9ne

there is a vacuum hose routing diagram under the hood

(if your car still has the stock hood and hasn't been in a wreck)

twastheglow

It has an S13 Silvia hood. So that's a no go. I just want to get my damn car running again.

Can you tell me what the hose next to the radiator goes to and what I should do with it?

*mike*

projectRDM

Secondary resonator for the intake, mounts to the shroud. You can leave it or remove it, it's screwed to the shroud at either end.

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projectRDM

There should be no gas smell unless the tank has been pressurized under boost, damaging the check valve on the tank. There's no telling how it was hooked up originally. The check valve is above the tank, mounted to the chassis. You'll have to drop the tank to access it.

If the smell is strong you should be able to tell where it's coming from, down by the frame rail.

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twastheglow

Thanks. Ok, I don't have to worry about that one. And the 4 vacuum lines coming from underneath the throttle body, they're supposed to be capped too right? Then the lines going to the charcoal canister from the manifold (leaving the line that goes to the hardline on the firewall open), also capped, correct? If that's the case...after I properly seal my egr with the JGS cap, all my vacuum lines should be taken care of. BUT THAT DAMN GAS SMELL...!!!
*mike*

twastheglow

I'm 99% sure the gas smell is coming from the engine bay. What does that tell you?
*mike*

Om1kron

get some jackstands, put your car on them and get under it. Dont assume until you have tested, you're doing chair mechanic work on your car assuming you've diagnosed a problem and it is seemingly frustrating to offer you advice to have you shoot it down with what you think it is but yet you haven't tried putting anything back in place to see if that fixed the issue much less have you done anything but provide an excuse as to why it still reeks of gas.

This is why my car reeks of gas, because I've been researching every possibility before putting it up on jacks and tearing it apart. Which pretty much is going to be my next move after I take it to a nissan dealer to look at.

__________________
People with a shittier car than me trying to give me their thoughts and opinions on my car is like a broke motherfucker giving me financial advice. - GFY... - the hnl

twastheglow

I REALLY appreciate everyone's help, ideas, and suggestions, but please understand that everyday that I get out of work, I go home and work on the car until it's too dark out. Then I come into work the next day and try to get more suggestions to try when I get home.

So far I have checked the plugs, the injectors, the fuel rail for leaks, the MAF, the timing, the ecu for visual signs that the chip for the tune came loose, my fuel filter, etc. Tonight I'm going to check all the vacuum lines that I had plugged and make sure they're plugged correctly. I also have to UNplug the line that goes to the firewall from where the canister was.

I just like to get as many possibilities through out the day so I have something to work on when I get home. I've just run out of my own ideas.

PS...I truly apologize if I've frustrated you. I didn't mean to. I'm greatful for everyone's help.
*mike*

Om1kron

no problem man, good luck.

__________________
People with a shittier car than me trying to give me their thoughts and opinions on my car is like a broke motherfucker giving me financial advice. - GFY... - the hnl

CityHunt3R

well i have EGR valve code 32 and 34 cant figure it out i press up against my egr valve and engine stumbles until it dies... sometimes it dies somtimes it doesnt... how do u know if the egr is good or bad or if its the solenoid... i serached around everyone has some what of a diferent problem. when i floor my caron freeway i smell ehaust fumes or some fumes in my car.... duno what it is anyone elese have this issue? also i tried serahcing how to remove EGR valve.. man im gona have to do a write up myself .. ,, ahhahaah once i figure it out

__________________

techn9ne

TICAL.

twastheglow

Ok...I've seen/used that diagram. The 4 lines going across the front have all been capped. Good...bad? The egr pipe (which this does not show) is also being capped (it isn't yet as I'm waiting for the cap from JGS, it'll be here Tuesday). And the charcoal canister and that square black box thing (I don't know what it is) next to the canister have also been removed. Is that all correct?
*mike*

techn9ne

if you disconnected the canister, plug the purge and vacuum lines going to it. the hose that goes from the tank to the canister needs to be vented, or your tank may build up enough pressure to either burst or crack. im assuming the black box thing is the resonator for the stock intake. hopefully this next pic helps.

twastheglow

^ That black box thing is the box the PAIR solenoid valve and PAIR valve are hooked to. It's directly in front of the BMC and to the left of the power steering resevoir. I yanked that right the fuck out too. What's the deal with that?
*mike*

techn9ne

copypasta time.

SYSTEM PURPOSE

The Pulsed Secondary Air Injection (PAIR) System is designed to send secondary air to the exhaust manifold to promote afterburning of the exhaust gases, reducing CO and HC. The exhaust pressure in the manifold pulsates in response to the opening and closing of the exhaust valves and decreases periodically below atmospheric pressure creating a vacuum effect.

Pulsed Secondary Air Injection (PAIR/AIV) Input/Output Signals

CIRCUIT OPERATION
When the ECM senses the proper conditions suitable for PAIR operation, via the water temperature sensor, idle switch and crank angle sensor it supplies the ground circuit to the PAIRC solenoid allowing the system to operate.

Fig. 6 AIV/PAIR Valve

The vacuum being transmitted to the PAIR Valve acts upon a diaphragm opening the valve port allowing the system to operate. The exhaust flow then draws filtered air into the the manifold through the piping and PAIR Valve promoting afterburning of the unburned exhaust gasses. A set of reed valves are mounted in the PAIR Valve to prevent exhaust gas from being sent back into the unit when the exhaust pressure exceeds atmospheric pressure.

Vacuum Control Solenoid

PULSED SECONDARY AIR INJECTION (PAIRC) CONTROL SOLENOID
The ECM supplies the ground circuit to the PAIRC solenoid. When activated, it redirects vacuum from the source and vent ports to the source and valve ports, applying vacuum to the PAIR.

PAIR/AIV Solenoid Operation

PAIR OPERATION CHART

twastheglow

So is there a problem that I no longer have this?
*mike*

techn9ne

egr valve is working properly when it makes your car die/stumble at idle when its open.

twastheglow

Then that's clearly why I have that exact problem. I totally half-assed closing that pipe off until I get this damn cap in from JGSTools. That must be the root of my freaking issue. I sure as hell hope capping that off alleviates my car of dying when idling and generally running like shit.

What would happen if you tried driving with that egr pipe not attached to the exhausts manifold?
*mike*

techn9ne

not really. its just emissions garbage. just make sure the hole in the exhaust that the fresh air supposed to be getting sucked into is blocked, or its gonna give the 02 sensor a false lean, which in turn adds more fuel when you dont need it, and makes you run rich.

twastheglow

Where did it connect to the exhaust? I don't remember. Was it the exhaust manifold? If so, that's long gone too. Swapped it out for a turbo manifold. Where would I have to block off?

Thanks so much man. I think you're seriously answering all my questions.
*mike*

techn9ne

any big exhaust leak before the 02 sensor is going to make your ecu dump more fuel into the cylinder to compensate for the false lean condition.

twastheglow

And the egr pipe being open would be considered an exhaust leak per say?
*mike*

twastheglow

So maybe just sealing up the egr properly might help keep my car from running as rich as it is?
*mike*

techn9ne

oh yeah, i forgot you turbo'd ur car. yeah, since you have a completely different manifold, im not sure you even have a port for the egr or pair valve. if you do, just block em.

techn9ne

is the egr pipe sealed on the intake side or on the exhaust side? and which side (if any) is it connected to

twastheglow

If that's where it connected, then I definately do not have a place for them. Cool. So I guess I have that part taken care of correctly.
*mike*

twastheglow

I took it off the exhaust manifold. It's still attached to the egr valve on the intake manifold. I tried some super ghetto diy shit to seal the egr pipe just for now to move the car and stuff. I have since then ordered a cap for the egr valve body where the egr pipe threads on. I think the heat from the exhaust probably opened up the egr pipe pretty decent so it's no longer sealed. (not that it ever was very well)
*mike*

techn9ne

so the new manifold does not have a place for the egr pipe to go into right?

twastheglow

Correct. So I ordered this cap to remedy that. JGS Precision Turbo (click on 240sx products, it's almost at the bottom of the page)

Would not having it attached to the intake manifold cause the stumbling and dying at idle you were talking about?
*mike*