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| Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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| | #61 | ||
| Nissanaholic! ![]() Join Date: May 2005 Location: Louisiana. LA is for Louisiana. L.A. is Los Angeles. Age: 22
Posts: 2,313
Trader Rating: (2) | Quote:
RIP, 'Oil burning POS'
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| | #63 |
| Premium Member ![]() Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: VA.. And for those that keep PMing me asking what kit I have, it's Origin Stream.
Posts: 1,718
Trader Rating: (2) | LOL Yeah, that's my ideal goal, is to do a ring for tails, and a center for brake, but I don't know that I'll ever get around to it. I'm also kinda scared to go prying/cutting on my set of kouki tails. LOL
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| | #65 | ||
| Nissanaholic! ![]() Join Date: May 2005 Location: Louisiana. LA is for Louisiana. L.A. is Los Angeles. Age: 22
Posts: 2,313
Trader Rating: (2) | Quote:
Don't do it to Kouki lights until you've had enough time to take apart a few tails without breaking em... which is why I went with eBay altezzas. Of course, right now I'm trying to get a zenki centerpiece for the tail set so I can mod it with LEDs to illuminate with the brake lights. I can't get one in my price range though.
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| | #66 | |
| Premium Member ![]() Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: VA.. And for those that keep PMing me asking what kit I have, it's Origin Stream.
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Trader Rating: (2) | Quote:
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| | #68 | |
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Took stock S13 hub, knocked out all studs except one Placed stock S14 rotor on top Put in drill press to drill out holes Used an end mill (school I went to had one, all you're doing is removing material) Once holes are drilled, knock in new studs, (you can tack weld each stud if you want) | ||
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| | #69 | ||
| Nissanaholic! ![]() Join Date: May 2005 Location: Louisiana. LA is for Louisiana. L.A. is Los Angeles. Age: 22
Posts: 2,313
Trader Rating: (2) | Quote:
http://www.componentsuperstore.com/s...IGHTING8080368 They're not cheap, I'm warning you guys now. Red/Orange, like I've already said, is more intense than straight red, and when used behind a red lens, they look great.
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| | #70 | |
| Post Whore! ![]() Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: ṢCal♥ Cali, U.K =/==> www.myspace.com/myspacerobby Age: 24
Posts: 5,807
Trader Rating: (1) | Quote:
we did my s13 also. No problems thus far.
__________________ Robby Leuer | |
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| | #72 |
| Premium Member | I know somebody already did this, but i just wanted to show another example of what could be done for some cheap brake ducting, and it actually works! ![]() ![]()
__________________ Last edited by racerx83858; 05-09-2008 at 08:34 AM. |
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| | #73 | |
| Zilvia FREAK! ![]() | Quote:
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__________________ ![]() Fake wheels! <3Touke Last edited by JDM671; 02-16-2008 at 11:36 PM. Reason: noob question | |
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| | #74 |
| Leaky Injector | Hopefully you guys don't mind me bumping a slightly old thread, but I was talking about the same subject of drilling the hub to create a new pattern in mine. For those who have done it in the past, why didn't you just thread in new studs into the holes? I am sure you could have used a tap to create threads. This way, it won't be too much of a permanent thing. Then also, if the stud breaks, then it would be somewhat easily replaceable. Also assuming that you are worried about it possibly sliding off of the threads, and want something more secure, why not just put a couple of tap welds on the back of it. This way, it will be secure, but you could always grind the tap welds down, and remove the stud? Just trying to throw ideas out there with you guys.
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| | #76 |
| Leaky Injector | Maybe I am just used to converting over to studs in my other cars. Cause for example, a BMW uses wheel bolts and if you were to convert it over to a stud, all you would have to do is thread in the new studs into the existing threaded holes on the hub. All that is used to secure them down is some red or blue loctite (don't remember which one at the moment they used). A lot of racers use this method on their cars, to change out wheels quicker, and have no problems with just threading in the studs. This also allows them to change it out every so often if needed, since they experience a lot more wear and tear than normal use.
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| | #78 |
| Zilvia Junkie ![]() | lol post pics
__________________ Blog: Panda Pirate Brian |
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| | #82 |
| Zilvia FREAK! ![]() | |
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| | #83 | |
| Leaky Injector ![]() | Quote:
no, you need a GT-S AE92 Corolla Coupe... The SR5's wont have them (I got one for my girl's SR5 Coupe)
__________________ SupraMan!!/1986.5 Sports Package/1989 TURBO/1992 HT/2005 Scion xB | |
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| | #84 |
| Zilvia Addict ![]() | this thread rocks my socks, +rep to you OP Custom made brake lines for my Z brake swap: ![]() Removing the spoiler from the hatch ($#@$ rust!): ![]() The 4 to 5 lug conversion is pretty interesting...I might try that in the future if I can find access to a drill press! Also, I am just about to start my interior lights LED conversion, where did you guys buy you LED's?? Also, where can you buy/find information about what resistors you will need?? Thanks! |
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| | #86 |
| Zilvia Addict ![]() | we took a coat hanger and bent it into the desired shape needed to clear everything then we took a stainless steel brake line and shaped it (gently) into the same shape as the coat hanger. Make sure you do not disfigure the cross section of the brake line. another picture might help: ![]() |
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| | #89 |
| Premium Member ![]() | I just did this one: 240z fuel splash guard retrofit Kinda-sorta-useful for the few who care about trying not to spill fuel onto their paint @ the gas station: Total project time: about 3-5 minutes Equipment required: - Scissors - Rubber material or a 240z fuel splash guard (or whatever it is really called) ![]() Step 1: - Trim the splash guard ![]() Step 2: - Fit the piece - if you trimmed too much like I did (or just got a rectangular piece), you can wedge it between the fuel sender grommet & the chassis. ![]() ![]() ![]() It actually works, too! Normally I don't spill any fuel. However, yesterday, I went to fuel up & 2-3 drops escaped the fuel sender & landed onto the splash guard instead of my nice paint, YAY!
__________________ bew bews! |
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