The fabrication thread.

[STR8E180]

Originally Posted by bardabe

nice, the one im building is using CP Pistons, Corillo Rods, then the custom head work to get the VVL head to work with the RWD Block, and i can't disclose soo much on the head as we have some prototype stuff in there but once its tested and working if the companies allow I shall provide with the details on the Headwork.

how far away is it from being finished??

[DeleriousZ]

Dimes may look cool, but a smooth weld is much stronger.

[S14_Kouki]

Originally Posted by DeleriousZ

Dimes may look cool, but a smooth weld is much stronger.

Who are you talking to?? im very confused

[TanaMU]

Probably this guy

[Race Manifolds]

very cool stuff on here you guys are damn active! here is a few shots of the manifolds we build for the SR20 crowd.

[blu808]

How come I have never seen your manifolds? They are beautiful. Your work makes me want to go back to Sr engines.

Hats off sir.

[blu808]

Want to build a ITB setup for my turbo LS1?

[STR8E180]

not sure if u guys have heard of an australian company called HYPERTUNE?

they make 3 piece billet plenums and the great thing about them being 3 piece is it makes it so much more easy to match port to the cylinder head
basically u unbolt the flange plate of the runners and bolt it onto ur cylinder head and port them both together for the perfect match port instead of match porting to the gasket like u normally do

here are some photos of there SR20 plenums they have on the market

[S14_Kouki]

Hello DeleriousZ and TanaMU
Do you guys know anything about welding?? Maybe if you did you would know, that is pulse welding theres even a option on the tig machines and the reason you use a pulse is to get better penetration. Just so everyone knows full race welds there manifolds with a pulse. So stfu

Race Manifold guy do you have any dyno numbers of your evo intake manifolds?? From what I have heard/read the only aftermarket intake manifold that actually works and gains power on the evo is the cosworth intake manifolds.

[s15specR]

Race Manifold:

Price, website etc ?

Very nice stuff by the way.

[TIG]

As much as I love this thread I don't know why I havent posted anything in here yet!

Here is the beginning of some camber plates I designed and started machining. They were originally designed for my M3, but now they're going to be altered (a lot) for an RPS13 so I can knock the caster back several degrees.

[S14_Kouki]

Lookin good I would like to see pics of them on the car when there done.

[s15specR]

Love this thread!

[Race Manifolds]

this website hates me. i paid to be a memner and they keep deleting all my posts. fuckin lame

[xpertsnowcarver]

If your promoting your business, then yes.. you'd have to subscribe as a Vendor which costs quite a bit more money..

[doug200t]

Yah... Never seen the BJS intake manifold with all the years of work in sr development ive been on. Sandrail crowd?

[white92_s13]

just started out recently doing welding. I am using a 110v lincoln electric weld pack 100, with a co2 argon mix. Right now i have a spool of .025" wire and its ok, but i prefer to use .030"

anyways heres a few things i have welded, the material i was welding was 16 gauge steel, and according to the chart on the welder, i should have used .030 or .035 wire to weld that thick, but the beads came out good and it holds water!

I used heat range D and wire speed of around 3.5 4 on the knob.





let me know if there is anything i should change and improve on!

[S14_Kouki]

^ lookin good just keep practicing

[S14_Kouki]

O shit son something new to look at enjoy

So we made progress on the srt4 dowepipe



The 900hp integra built The DP and IC

4 inch baby


And k20 flange top, sr flange bottom just got in mail today.

[KawBoy]

BJ's has been around in the dsm community

And FWIW, the Hypertune > BJ's in more ways then just being 3 piece.

[clark]

Originally Posted by white92_s13

just started out recently doing welding. I am using a 110v lincoln electric weld pack 100, with a co2 argon mix. Right now i have a spool of .025" wire and its ok, but i prefer to use .030"

anyways heres a few things i have welded, the material i was welding was 16 gauge steel, and according to the chart on the welder, i should have used .030 or .035 wire to weld that thick, but the beads came out good and it holds water!

I used heat range D and wire speed of around 3.5 4 on the knob.


let me know if there is anything i should change and improve on!

yo i just picked up the same welder this summer, welds are looking really really good. what technique did you use? did you push or pull? what type of sweeping motion (if any) did you use?

[clark]

hey if any of you guys know about making tie bars and heim joints in general, have a look at my thread. I want some opinions and some help with this:

swaged tube for tie bar?

[Jonnie Fraz]

Originally Posted by clark

hey if any of you guys know about making tie bars and heim joints in general, have a look at my thread. I want some opinions and some help with this:

swaged tube for tie bar?

Ok, here is my personal opinion on the subject. I am guessing that by "tie bars" you are talking about strut tower braces and chassis bracing. In my opinion you should not have adjustment points/heims on your chassis bracing. They should be solid like mine(Stealth-Custom-Fab), Carbing, Ultra Racing...ect. Adjustments do allow you to not have to worry about being precise in fabracation, but they allow movement. With heims you can get movement in all directions because that is the nature of the joint.
Gold standard would be welding in a cage, silver would be bolt in solid chassis stiffeners, bronze would be bolt in adjustable chassis bracing. Adjustable is better than nothing, but not the best by any means.
Hope this helps.

[clark]

Originally Posted by Jonnie Fraz

Ok, here is my personal opinion on the subject. I am guessing that by "tie bars" you are talking about strut tower braces and chassis bracing. In my opinion you should not have adjustment points/heims on your chassis bracing. They should be solid like mine(Stealth-Custom-Fab), Carbing, Ultra Racing...ect. Adjustments do allow you to not have to worry about being precise in fabracation, but they allow movement. With heims you can get movement in all directions because that is the nature of the joint.
Gold standard would be welding in a cage, silver would be bolt in solid chassis stiffeners, bronze would be bolt in adjustable chassis bracing. Adjustable is better than nothing, but not the best by any means.
Hope this helps.

i was hoping you'd see this. thanks for the input, now i'm having second thoughts i still might play around to see what i'm capable of.

[white92_s13]

Originally Posted by clark

yo i just picked up the same welder this summer, welds are looking really really good. what technique did you use? did you push or pull? what type of sweeping motion (if any) did you use?

hey good deal on the welder!

I am now using .030" wire, and its welding nicer. The wire can penetrate better. I go left to right, and do a small arc sweep. or i go down from the top, and do the same small sweep.

Its a great welder, i welded a diff with it, and on heat D .030" wire and 3.5 wire speed welds a diff just fine! plan on welding my next roll cage with this welder

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Jonnie Fraz

... In my opinion you should not have adjustment points/heims on your chassis bracing...

Agreed 100%. Chassis supports should be fab'd to spec, only use heims where you need adjustment (suspension arms/etc).

Originally Posted by white92_s13

i welded a diff with it, and on heat D .030" wire and 3.5 wire speed welds a diff just fine! plan on welding my next roll cage with this welder

Owning my own 110V Hobart, I would not trust a diff welded with a 110V welder, even if it were brand new/immaculately clean. Not enough penetration, and the welds are almost certainly dirty.

Did you use MIG/gas, or flux core?

[atutt]

^Truth.
110v shouldn't be used for anything more than body work and welding misc tabs and stuff.

110v provides little to no penetration when compared to a 220v power source.

Welding a diff with 110v would be silly. You're almost better off trying to solder it together. The gears are gonna put a fair amount of force on those welds. Especially if you're drifting.

[Jonnie Fraz]

Originally Posted by clark

i was hoping you'd see this. thanks for the input, now i'm having second thoughts i still might play around to see what i'm capable of.

By all means play around and have fun. We all need a fresh perspective once and a while. Enjoy your new tool, but know your limitations.
I have been a welder longer than I have not, and there are some things I still won't attempt.

[MELLO*SOS]

I have to say this is probably my favorite thread on the entire forum... So much cool stuff happening in here!

Originally Posted by white92_s13

just started out recently doing welding. I am using a 110v lincoln electric weld pack 100, with a co2 argon mix. Right now i have a spool of .025" wire and its ok, but i prefer to use .030"

anyways heres a few things i have welded, the material i was welding was 16 gauge steel, and according to the chart on the welder, i should have used .030 or .035 wire to weld that thick, but the beads came out good and it holds water!

I used heat range D and wire speed of around 3.5 4 on the knob.





let me know if there is anything i should change and improve on!

Sweet! Someone else learning to weld! Those look pretty good. Are you teaching yourself or taking a class or?? I think I prefer .030 over the .023 also but I have spools of both on hand.

I bought myself a Miller 140 110v unit a few months ago and taught myself also. I'm still practicing MIG but have access to a syncrowave 200 unit so I'm teaching myself TIG now as well.. I love it I can weld for hours until my knuckles are on fire and my arms sunburnt, so awesome haha

Here's a couple pics of my MIG practicing, 16ga sheet with some 3/16 plates:





I think this was a 3/16 plate to a 1.5x.095 DOM tube? Can't remember, but the thicker stuff is much more enjoyable to MIG weld than the sheetmetal... Dark spots aren't porosity, some of the slag chipped off.



No photos of TIG work yet..

[duffman1278]

Those first 2 photos look really good but how's the penetration?