The fabrication thread.

[ManoNegra]

Originally Posted by Baxter

dont waste your time with helicoils. Timeserts are where its at.

++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,

Originally Posted by Devil Man

why bother with either? i have always just taped a whole and screwed into that? am i wrong in doing this?

Originally Posted by undesiredshoe

Most people are poor and helicoil kits are expensive enough

Looked into those inserts, they're very similar to the Keenserts we regularly use in the shop for aerospace work
issue with them is that are harder to pull out if the need ever arises
and they're very expensive
now helicoils are also an industry standard and
once you have the install kit, the coils themselves are ~50 cents each
they also have some float to them which helps with preventing cross-threading
reason why I mentioned I'd had liked to install them on the brackets
is that aluminum is a rather soft material and if one isn't careful
threads can be fucked up rather easily
but either insert would have worked pretty good

[s15specR]

EVO brackets wont work on the STI calipers, the bolts holes are spaced a few millimeters further on the STI I beleive.

[onepuff]

Started on a bolt-in core support. Just used some angle iron. Seems pretty strong but i will probably weld in some support on the open side.






Not too much fab work here but I thought i'd throw these pics up anyways. Tucked brake lines. I did have to weld in a little plate to flatten the firewall where the bulkhead fittings are. The fittings aren't completely tightened down that's why they aren't aligned perfectly. Inner fenders still need to be cleaned up a bit too.

[GSXRJJordan]

Fluidyne radiator: Baller.
Tucked brake lines: Baller.

Lookin good!

[onepuff]

Thanks. Tryin to talk my pops into getting a soda blaster soon so i can get the chassis nice and clean so i can put some fresh paint on it. Then it might look like somethin'. I've got some serious body work to do on the passenger rockers though. Pretty much going to have to cut the whole outer rocker out and figure something out from there.
Time to invest in some metal working tools i guess. You can never have too many tools though.

[aa87]

Originally Posted by onepuff

Depending on tire size, i dunno, id be a hair worried with a brake line routed like that, especially under compression.

[NeedCAforS13]

I'd be worried about a tire blow tearing out your brake lines... yikes.

[ManoNegra]

Originally Posted by s15specR

EVO brackets wont work on the STI calipers, the bolts holes are spaced a few millimeters further on the STI I beleive.

Interesting, I should be hearing anytime now
whether they worked or not
if the spacing is different, no biggie
I'll just whip up another set

[Devil Man]

Originally Posted by aa87

Depending on tire size, i dunno, id be a hair worried with a brake line routed like that, especially under compression.

Originally Posted by NeedCAforS13

I'd be worried about a tire blow tearing out your brake lines... yikes.

im with both of you on this... that routing is scary for under load situations and if a tire were to blow out on the front too...

on a side note... win on the soda blaster... lol if you get it

[onepuff]

Originally Posted by aa87

Depending on tire size, i dunno, id be a hair worried with a brake line routed like that, especially under compression.

I did do a little measuring before I started. Hard to get an idea of the room from the pictures but I have at least 2" at full compression and FULL lock i.e. tie rods not attached.






I just jacked the wheel up with the coilovers assembled until the car started to raise off the jackstands to take the first few pics. I do realize the coilovers will compress a little more. However if the spring happens to compress THIS much, which I don't think is physically possible I still have a few mm to spare at FULL lock.


I think I will be ok. This is with 17x9 245/40 tires BTW. If I happen to have a blowout I suppose I might have a problem, however i will still have the E-brake.

[fakeshemp44]

ok, I made a rough copy of my TWIN wastegate dump tubes a while back, today I made my final copies (pretty ones), out of 1 3/4 inch stainless tubing with a 1/16 wall, burnt thru the wall at first so I ended up going back and just tacking it all the way around, then went back and grinded the welds down and smoothed it all out.








this same post is in my build thread as well, that's all for now.

[slidin_W.O.P]

Hey guys, noticed some very nice work in here. Dont mean to mooch but maybe a couple of you guys can drop some advice for me...

Structural Rigidity- S14- Convertible

[atutt]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Fluidyne radiator: Baller.
Tucked brake lines: Baller.

Lookin good!

No, no... Griffens rads are baller... $1500 for a rad... Yup, they got 'em, lol.

Also picked up my V8 today... Talking with someone about buying their Borg Warner Viper tranny.... Winter will be fun

[GSXRJJordan]

Well, the fuel rail that I made (cut off/blocked off the kinked feed and return lines, drilled the ends out, cleaned as much as possible, and used wire-feed flux core to weld -6an fittings on) had a couple pin-hole leaks. After calling Luke and going back to my original research, everyone said TIG is the only way to go...

... so I bought some new fittings and took it all to LuisGonz in LA, and had him re-weld them... he cut off the old fittings, cleaned it all up inside and out, and ended up MIG'ing the new ones on (no matter how much he cleaned, the TIG wouldn't keep a good puddle going, kept getting outgassing).

... it still leaks a tiny bit on the fitting that's closest to the injector seat (couldn't get a solid bead all the way around) - if I bump the pressure to 60psi, I get a quarter-size damp spot on the towel I have wrapped under the fitting... FML, I don't have cash for top-feed injectors right now, and can't find a decent side-feed rail with threads/fittings (and the rest of the fuel system is -6an). I'll probably keep this setup for initial start-up, then start looking for another RB rail. Anyone know if the 25's are the same as the 20's? I'm guessing not.

Originally Posted by atutt

No, no... Griffens rads are baller... $1500 for a rad... Yup, they got 'em, lol.

Also picked up my V8 today... Talking with someone about buying their Borg Warner Viper tranny.... Winter will be fun

Nice! *sniff, sniff* do I smell turbos?

[bardabe]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Well, the fuel rail that I made (cut off/blocked off the kinked feed and return lines, drilled the ends out, cleaned as much as possible, and used wire-feed flux core to weld -6an fittings on) had a couple pin-hole leaks. After calling Luke and going back to my original research, everyone said TIG is the only way to go...

... so I bought some new fittings and took it all to LuisGonz in LA, and had him re-weld them... he cut off the old fittings, cleaned it all up inside and out, and ended up MIG'ing the new ones on (no matter how much he cleaned, the TIG wouldn't keep a good puddle going, kept getting outgassing).

... it still leaks a tiny bit on the fitting that's closest to the injector seat (couldn't get a solid bead all the way around) - if I bump the pressure to 60psi, I get a quarter-size damp spot on the towel I have wrapped under the fitting... FML, I don't have cash for top-feed injectors right now, and can't find a decent side-feed rail with threads/fittings (and the rest of the fuel system is -6an). I'll probably keep this setup for initial start-up, then start looking for another RB rail. Anyone know if the 25's are the same as the 20's? I'm guessing not.



Nice! *sniff, sniff* do I smell turbos?

what kind of Gas Was Luiz Using on the Tig and how many amps? RB20's Use a Top Feed Fuel Rail. however i don't thinkt he bolt pattern is the same but don't quote me on that.

[atutt]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Well, the fuel rail that I made (cut off/blocked off the kinked feed and return lines, drilled the ends out, cleaned as much as possible, and used wire-feed flux core to weld -6an fittings on) had a couple pin-hole leaks. After calling Luke and going back to my original research, everyone said TIG is the only way to go...

... so I bought some new fittings and took it all to LuisGonz in LA, and had him re-weld them... he cut off the old fittings, cleaned it all up inside and out, and ended up MIG'ing the new ones on (no matter how much he cleaned, the TIG wouldn't keep a good puddle going, kept getting outgassing).

... it still leaks a tiny bit on the fitting that's closest to the injector seat (couldn't get a solid bead all the way around) - if I bump the pressure to 60psi, I get a quarter-size damp spot on the towel I have wrapped under the fitting... FML, I don't have cash for top-feed injectors right now, and can't find a decent side-feed rail with threads/fittings (and the rest of the fuel system is -6an). I'll probably keep this setup for initial start-up, then start looking for another RB rail. Anyone know if the 25's are the same as the 20's? I'm guessing not.



Nice! *sniff, sniff* do I smell turbos?

Can't spoil all my secrets now, can I?

[blu808]

My dog is named Turbo...

[Andrew Bohan]

your dog is fucking retarded

[S@nt0s]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Well, the fuel rail that I made (cut off/blocked off the kinked feed and return lines, drilled the ends out, cleaned as much as possible, and used wire-feed flux core to weld -6an fittings on) had a couple pin-hole leaks. After calling Luke and going back to my original research, everyone said TIG is the only way to go...

... so I bought some new fittings and took it all to LuisGonz in LA, and had him re-weld them... he cut off the old fittings, cleaned it all up inside and out, and ended up MIG'ing the new ones on (no matter how much he cleaned, the TIG wouldn't keep a good puddle going, kept getting outgassing).

...

cleaned with what? pre heated part? amps?

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by bardabe

what kind of Gas Was Luiz Using on the Tig and how many amps? RB20's Use a Top Feed Fuel Rail. however i don't thinkt he bolt pattern is the same but don't quote me on that.

I believe he was using 100% argon. Amps were changed a bunch (he was bouncing on the pedal, I dunno, I don't TIG lol).

Originally Posted by S@nt0s

cleaned with what? pre heated part? amps?

We used a flap disk around the outside, and a stepped drill bit to get the old weld cleaned out of the inside. It looked pretty good, no signs of zinc , and the only brazing I saw was far from the weld are.

[S@nt0s]

sounds like its dirty and or not enough power ... got a pic?

[duffman1278]

More than likely it was dirty. TIG welding can be picky when it comes to how clean your metal is. I've had instances where my welds were working too good because it wasn't thoroughly cleaned.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by S@nt0s

sounds like its dirty and or not enough power ... got a pic?

Should have taken a pic... as soon as he showed the TIG'd bubble crap to me, he grinded it back off to MIG it.

Originally Posted by duffman1278

More than likely it was dirty. TIG welding can be picky when it comes to how clean your metal is. I've had instances where my welds were working too good because it wasn't thoroughly cleaned.

Yeah, I guess - I mean that's the only explanation... but it was spotless, just maybe not on the inside. Fuck OEM fuel rails lol.

[Baxter]

Originally Posted by ManoNegra

Looked into those inserts, they're very similar to the Keenserts we regularly use in the shop for aerospace work
issue with them is that are harder to pull out if the need ever arises
and they're very expensive
now helicoils are also an industry standard and
once you have the install kit, the coils themselves are ~50 cents each
they also have some float to them which helps with preventing cross-threading
reason why I mentioned I'd had liked to install them on the brackets
is that aluminum is a rather soft material and if one isn't careful
threads can be fucked up rather easily
but either insert would have worked pretty good

My preference is to use studs whenever possible so that the threaded aluminum part never sees any wear with or without timeserts/helicoils etc.

[S@nt0s]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Should have taken a pic... as soon as he showed the TIG'd bubble crap to me, he grinded it back off to MIG it.



Yeah, I guess - I mean that's the only explanation... but it was spotless, just maybe not on the inside. Fuck OEM fuel rails lol.

aluminum is a "dirty" alloy very pourous so it needs to be really clean.... altho no required it could be to purge it too...

[blu808]

Originally Posted by atutt

No, no... Griffens rads are baller... $1500 for a rad... Yup, they got 'em, lol.

Also picked up my V8 today... Talking with someone about buying their Borg Warner Viper tranny.... Winter will be fun

You prob already know this but the input shaft splines, and the output shaft diameter are different on the viper t56. Just wanted to give ya a heads up.

[atutt]

^Nope. I didn't know that.
I had heard they fit and can be used with an F body bellhousing.

Oh well... F-body T-56 it is then...

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by S@nt0s

aluminum is a "dirty" alloy very pourous so it needs to be really clean.... altho no required it could be to purge it too...

OEM fuel rails are zinc-coated steel.

[blu808]

jordaninnovations.com

[S@nt0s]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

OEM fuel rails are zinc-coated steel.

oh i missed the part of the OEM rail.... then i say that was it... no purging...