The fabrication thread.

[zoototheyork]

does this affect body roll because the transmission and dif angle are now offset, or "center of gravity" ? dono

[duffman1278]

It more than likely will move you're center of gravity lower, but by the looks of it, not by much to even make a noticeable difference.

[Andrew Bohan]

here's the rear firewall

[Andrew Bohan]

...aaaaaaand the subframe all installed

[Jonnie Fraz]

Originally Posted by Andrew Bohan

...aaaaaaand the subframe all installed

Very nice work guys! Luke I hope you get some seat time with all the new goodies before your events.
Hope to see you guys next week sometime. Keep up the great work!

[blu808]

Jonnie: Thanks. Here is the bolt in rear bash bar we talked about on the phone. We are building the front one today. The tow hook spins on, and the threaded part sticks out of a hole where the license plate would normally go. We will also be using the bar itself as the primary rear mount for the diffuser.

[ThatGuy]

Sick as always Luke!

Blu808 Race Fab is fabricating the new revolution, and Lab17 will cover it all in sick vinyl. Forget T-800s covered in rubber skin. The true Terminators will be Tig welded works of art slathered in Lab17 stickers.

Luke and Andrew, with their silly Cali accents, are awesome.

[blu808]

I feel sorry for whoever I tandem with.

[ConePirate]

oh woops... luke already posted it!

[Andrew Bohan]

for standing right next to each other you guys aren't coordinating very well

haha

[GSXRJJordan]

Did you guys mount it up to the frame underneath? Does it bolt on or is it welded?

Lets talk tubs. I needed to redo mine in the JefeS14 (since my galvanized ones were "mad fail" - thanks AndrUke )... I originally put them in because I was rubbing like crazy with my 235/40/17s on 17x8.5's, and knew that my 18x10 +0 Works with similar sized tires (245/40/18) would rub even crazier... alas, I couldn't find anything thick enough at the time, and tried .016" galvanized flashing. It was aiight, not pretty, but generally not up to the standard that the rest of my car is. They also were about an inch and a half too big in every direction (I went a little crazy lol), giving me NO room for an intake and barely room for charge piping.

... and after doing Ernie @ DTC's Vert's tubs...




... I decided that mine need MOAR ANGLEZZZZZZZZ - inspired by a similar design I saw at Impulse Engineering.

Measured clearance from the tire to the frame with the suspension at "full droop", ~3.5" - made sure to give myself at least that much clearance above, and matched inside clearance with the tension rod (so when I get knuckles, I can still hit full lock with my 275/30/18 R888s up front).


Helping hand FTMFW.


All mocked up, gotta wait till tomorrow to cut out the sheet pieces (power tools after 11pm are frowned on around here):


Thoughts? I still have the "rounded" style pieces cut out and ready to weld in, but I like the extra room in the bay, and the 'unique-ness' that these have Now that I'm looking at all the pics, I'm wondering if I could do it again without the 1/2" square tubing, and just weld the angled pieces together... muhahahahaha.

[tt99ol]

that is gonna be sick when its finished
i'm inspired

[INeedNewTires]

Originally Posted by Andrew Bohan

...aaaaaaand the subframe all installed

i thought modifying the subframe instantly takes you out of FD legality for drifting?? are you only running a different series (D1 or something else?) your work looks unbelievably awesome just wondering about the technicalities on the rule book and all that jazz.

on another note, i'd be interested in buying that subframe washer/pipe kit to weld in myself, i've been contemplating just getting SPL solid bushings and milling the top one down to be flush with the subframe but this looks easier & cheaper and just as functional. moar updates!

[Jonnie Fraz]

Originally Posted by INeedNewTires

i thought modifying the subframe instantly takes you out of FD legality for drifting?? are you only running a different series (D1 or something else?) your work looks unbelievably awesome just wondering about the technicalities on the rule book and all that jazz.

Not quite...You are allowed to brace the sub-frame, and you are allowed to move the pivot points to a degree. I think you can move them 1.5 inches from stock, but I have not read the rules latley.
Legality has a bunch to do with who you are and how much cash you have, but that is a whole other debate.

[Om1kron]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Did you guys mount it up to the frame underneath? Does it bolt on or is it welded?

Lets talk tubs. I needed to redo mine in the JefeS14 (since my galvanized ones were "mad fail" - thanks AndrUke )... I originally put them in because I was rubbing like crazy with my 235/40/17s on 17x8.5's, and knew that my 18x10 +0 Works with similar sized tires (245/40/18) would rub even crazier... alas, I couldn't find anything thick enough at the time, and tried .016" galvanized flashing. It was aiight, not pretty, but generally not up to the standard that the rest of my car is. They also were about an inch and a half too big in every direction (I went a little crazy lol), giving me NO room for an intake and barely room for charge piping.

... and after doing Ernie @ DTC's Vert's tubs...

I don't like how the tubs in Ernies car come to a sudden drop rather than symmetrically rounding out. You could've brought em a bit closer to the engine on the sides too....

However with the design that you have going on it does allow for better distribution of things in the engine bay as tubs are not really practical for mounting or placing anything where it used to go, and you can always fabricate brackets and bolts to mount sheet covers for the stuff you have hidden under them.

just saying.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by Om1kron

I don't like how the tubs in Ernies car come to a sudden drop rather than symmetrically rounding out. You could've brought em a bit closer to the engine on the sides too....

However with the design that you have going on it does allow for better distribution of things in the engine bay as tubs are not really practical for mounting or placing anything where it used to go, and you can always fabricate brackets and bolts to mount sheet covers for the stuff you have hidden under them.

just saying.

Ernie's tubs are shaped exactly how I wanted them - as close as possible, while still clearing everything. Because the tire moves up and down in the well, but not forward or backwards (caster aside), you need a more elliptical shape. As far as the 10* angle on the sides, that gives him an extra couple inches up where his VH45 valvecovers/etc will be, and again, it's in line with where the wheel would hit the tension rod anyway, so no loss of clearance.

[onepuff]

Here's my tubs. A little more filler under that primer than i would like, but i'm ready to get this thing back on the road for the summer dammitt.

[GSXRJJordan]

Yeah I remember seeing those before! I dig what you did with the 'flat' section, bringing it all the way to the strut tower. Nice/classic.

[240sxaddict]

Just another cage... built this cage for a friend to put in his coupe but ended up going into his hatch. He pre-painted some bars, others are new.









Working hard...


The forward bars are almost unnoticeable from outside the car.



The main hoop in this car has ridiculous fitment.Video to prove it haha.
YouTube - Extreme Cage Fitment

[90hatchie]

first time ever using mig
holds water no leaks
im proud of myself

[racepar1]

Originally Posted by blu808

Here is how you do it.

Solid bushings welded in, dimple died gusseting all around.

Luke, my subframe wants to be like your subframe when it grows up! LOL! I think I am going to do this with my s-14 rear subframe. I was going to buy the solid s-14 to s-13 conversion bushings, but I figure I could machine up some washers like that that are 5mm off center. That seriously moves the subframe up an inch though? I didn't think the bushings were that thick on the top side.

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by 240sxaddict

Just another cage... built this cage for a friend to put in his coupe but ended up going into his hatch. He pre-painted some bars, others are new

The forward bars are almost unnoticeable from outside the car.

The main hoop in this car has ridiculous fitment.Video to prove it haha.

Thats insane! Main hoop is 180*, no more? Thats wild fitment.

Originally Posted by 90hatchie

first time ever using mig
holds water no leaks
im proud of myself

Haha rad. I'm totally gonna make some eating/drinking utensil now.

[90hatchie]

lol metal rusts and has oils
i wouldnt dare drink out of this

[GSXRJJordan]

Originally Posted by 90hatchie

lol metal rusts and has oils
i wouldnt dare drink out of this

You get the idea. Wash it with dish soap, enjoy.

[240sxaddict]

Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan

Thats insane! Main hoop is 180*, no more? Thats wild fitment.

Thanks! And yep, 180*. It touches in the corners and touches the cut away portion of the middle roof brace.

AND the bars are completely welded like always, no gaps left at the tops like some shops do.

Have another S13 coming up. The upper bends should be firmly touching the chassis upper b-pillars and hug the roof. Constantly improving with each cage.

All done with old school measuring, manual bender, and very minimal wasted material.

[Jakob]

hey guys im looking for some good ac/dc tig machines. i just found this one:
click here
and i was wondering if you guys could tell me anything about it? i tried searching the miller website for a manual or some specs but i couldnt find any.
i really hope that this thing has a HF starting function haha because this might be the machine im going to pick up, even if i have to drive to england! ha!

[Jonnie Fraz]

Looks like a good deal. I believe all the Syncrowave series were HF starting. Looks like a special version of the 250a.

[SprockCapn]

Originally Posted by ConePirate

oh woops... luke already posted it!

That looks the the "cow Catcher" from a freight train!!! That's awesome!

[Jakob]

Originally Posted by Jonnie Fraz

Looks like a good deal. I believe all the Syncrowave series were HF starting. Looks like a special version of the 250a.

cool, thanks for the info i just cant find anything on the net about the 275p.... only on lincolns... that machine doesnt look that old really so i think it has HF. im going to email the seller.

[atutt]

Originally Posted by da_russian_one

hey guys im looking for some good ac/dc tig machines. i just found this one:
click here
and i was wondering if you guys could tell me anything about it? i tried searching the miller website for a manual or some specs but i couldnt find any.
i really hope that this thing has a HF starting function haha because this might be the machine im going to pick up, even if i have to drive to england! ha!

DO IT!!!
$1200 is a steal for something with a pulse option AND watercooled!!!
310amps is more than enough. Unless you have to weld aluminum over 5/8'' thick!

Plus it's a Miller... and Miller's own