rancid240

I have just recently purchased a set of Blaupunkt PCci650 6.5" 2 way components.  I know that Blaupunkt isnt very famous, but at 93 db and 60w rms, they really cant be beat for $60.  My question is that i have a 30x4/70x2 channel amp, and if i want to amp up the components, should i amp up each channel(one for each tweeter and midrange 30x4 after the component seperates the music) or just put 70wx2 to each component? Also, what size of wood is good for the side 6.5" templates?

misnomer

The components should have come with a crossover, a box that you plug input and speakers into. It separates the mids and lows to the woofer and the highs to the tweets. Use this and plug your amp in 70x2. Be careful with that amp, if that 70w is RMS power, it can and will blow your speakers with time if you aren't careful with the volume (same boat on the speakers, are these RMS or peak powers?). What do you mean by templates?

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rancid240

By templates, i mean the cutouts i am going to put in the doors so i can fit 6.5s instead of the 4x6 stock size.  what size mdf should i use?  and also what do you think of powering up the signal after the crossover seperates the highs and mids/lows, so that i can run the amp in 30x4(which reduces the amps THD 10 fold)?  The speakers are 60RMS, 180max, but i dont know what the RMS is specifically for the tweeters or midrange.

mrdirty

Should I bridge the amp:
Yes, bridging will bring up your THD. What amp are you using? It's better to us an amp with slightly higher RMS power unbridged than the driver you are using to avoid clipping the amp, which is much worse for the driver than either a clipped head unit signal or an overpowered driver (ie clean overpower). If u haven't bought the amp yet I can suggest some excellent bang for your buck options.

Avoid using a bridged signal for midbass, midrange and highs, it's fine for bass since the distortion is much less noticable w/ low frequencies.

Templates:
Use MDF, I would start w/ a 3/4" baffle and router in your speaker seat so that it is flush. W/ only 60 watts you'd never resonate even 1/4" MDF as long as the surface area is kept to a minimum. Drill thru and use "T-nuts" on the back, quite common in hardware stores for use in mdf and particle board. Don't use the screw in type as they will destroy the mdf and screw up your seal. Once the driver is in the baffle bolt it to the door after deadening the door panel (this also prevents rattles between the door and baffle.)

Anyway, that's about it i guess....

rancid240

I am using a pioneer premier x434 4 channel amp. So would you rather bridge the amp and then send the signal to the crossover, or let the crossover split the signal and then amp those signals?

Also, what amps do you like for bang for the buck options?  (I might sell my 4 channel and get a 2 channel with the proper RMS)

mrdirty

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (rancid240 @ Sep. 06 2002,4:46)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I am using a pioneer premier x434 4 channel amp. So would you rather bridge the amp and then send the signal to the crossover, or let the crossover split the signal and then amp those signals?

Also, what amps do you like for bang for the buck options? *(I might sell my 4 channel and get a 2 channel with the proper RMS)</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
I'm assuming 35 watts rms (probably more like 30 or less) per channel... I like pioneer for home audio but you may want to use this for maybe a 10" pair of subs.

I'm using US acoustics for my front stage with awesome results, I ended up getting:

A good deal

You can't go wrong w/ this amp, it's excellent; the THD is probably better than my fosgate for a fraction of the cost.

If i understand your first question:
You cannot use a passive cross-over in the pre-amp stage, they are intended for post-amp. If the cross-over network is good quality ( linkwitz- riley or butterworth) then don't worry about an active cross-over at this point as they are quite costly and complex to tune. Just get a clean solid amplified signal straight into the cross-over network and you're done.
I've tried bridging a few amps into mids and tweets w/ poor results, it's better (if you're not willing to buy another amp) to just leave it unbridged; at least you're getting clean power for moderate volumes. The other part is that 35watts per side for mids and tweets is quite a lot, I'm running 100 watts per side for a 3 way set of CDT components and they have to keep up w/ the 1025watts of subs in the back...