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Old 04-17-2006, 03:04 PM   #1
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adjusted idle.. now stalls on decell

So I turned down the idle adjusting screw until idle was around 800-750 ish..
but now if I clucth in from any RPM above 1k.. it wants to stall.

If I slow down using each gear and then slowly roll to a stop, it won't do that.

Its annoying 'cuz now that it idles where I want it, its unpredictable. Some of the time it will hold but most of the time not.

KA-T, open ATM BOV, 95 ECU in a 97 w/o re-pinning ECU harness (JWT),
I think that's all that should matter.
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Old 04-17-2006, 03:10 PM   #2
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Recirculate your bov.
Sounds cool and breaths fire...
...burns gaskets and stalls.
recirc and
peace
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Old 04-17-2006, 03:13 PM   #3
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brings up a good point. a lot of people with idle problems run atmospheric BOV and it corrects when they recirc.

either that or your vacuum line(s) have rotted and need replacing, and/or your IACV needs servicing
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Old 04-17-2006, 03:15 PM   #4
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Its a turbo XS RFL, non-recirc'able.
But under 1k rpms the BOV isn't even opening, so how do you explain that then?
that's not my issue if the bov isn't even under enough pressure to open, right?

It would hesitate under idle if it had vac leak.
ONLY when I decell does this occur; when its just idling there.. it doesn't have any problems.
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Old 04-17-2006, 04:27 PM   #5
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does it go away when you adjust your idle back to where it was? try running some cleaner through the IACV. do you have a SAFC or anything like that where you can adjust for the added fuel on the decel menu? are you unplugging the tps before you adjust it?
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Old 04-17-2006, 04:30 PM   #6
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It doesn't go away per say.. I mean, it doesn't stall.. but I was idling at 1k rpm and that's too high.

I don't have an SAFC, I have a BikiR0m stand alone.

I have to unplug the TPS to adjust the idle screw?
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Old 04-17-2006, 04:38 PM   #7
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I would bet bov ...
i have a blitz bov non recirc and it suck to drive same stuff happened to me
then I began my life of home depot parts

took a hose and piped in a recirc hose and wala no more stalling...

I will post a pic but no laughing...custom pepboys intake system...temp til I weld up a intake system with the q45 mafs, big piping...
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Old 04-17-2006, 04:45 PM   #8
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Even under low loads? I don't even have to be very much above 1k rpms and it'll do it.

I packed my BOV kinda tight so I don't even think there's enough load to open it to make that the issue.
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Old 04-17-2006, 07:09 PM   #9
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sorry forgot that you were KA-T, so i am not sure about unplugging the tps, but i know on a SR you are supposed to. i would still check for vacumm leaks, i had a few and a pretty big one on my cold pipe/TB connection and didnt even notice it until i put on my home made leak tester. i did a write up on it if you dont have one. same thing though was happening on my sr, and i fixed a few leaks and ran some cleaner through the IACV.
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Old 04-17-2006, 07:20 PM   #10
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My 91 fsm said to unplug the tps when ajusting the idle.
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Old 04-17-2006, 07:45 PM   #11
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Well, I didn't... but the car has been off and on.. and off..

So do I still need to unplug it? haha...

I may just end up turning the screw back off a lil' more and deal with the high idle.
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Old 04-17-2006, 07:57 PM   #12
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i would try cleaning it, and when you do then i would adjust the idle with the tps unplugged and give it a try, cant hurt.
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Old 04-17-2006, 08:03 PM   #13
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No, yes, no? HA HA!!! In truth, I do'nt think it's the entire problem. It sounds some what intermitten.
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Old 04-17-2006, 08:15 PM   #14
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I don't think so either. When I had the manifold off.. about 3-4 months ago, I cleaned the IACV pretty thoroughly...

Most of my vacuum lines are brand new or have been checked. I pull a good 22psi vacuum (so says my gauge) so I doubt its a leak anywhere.
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Old 04-17-2006, 08:20 PM   #15
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im not trying to be rude, but have you actually tried anything recently or are you just asking for help and shooting down ideas because of what you dont "think" it is? maybe you have been doing stuff, but i always suspect anything, no matter when the last time i changed, cleaned, or looked at it.
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Old 04-17-2006, 08:27 PM   #16
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I'm at school, I'll check when i get home.

But what has been suggested besides recirculating.. which couldn't logically cause the issue, cleaning the IACV, which I cleaned a few months ago, and unplugging the TPS?

I'm reading steady vacuum = no leaks.
It idles fine when its sitting, so why IACV?

Yah, suggestions are great, but if I can eliminate time by reasoning out variables first, why the hell not?

I like to understand what could be causing the problem, not just doing a bunch of things and hoping it fixes the issue.
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Old 04-17-2006, 08:31 PM   #17
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ok you can do that. i did that when i first started working with my sr and realized that did absolutely nothing for me. i am telling you i had the same problem, and that is what i did. my vacumm read 20 all the time, but i still had vacumm leaks i didnt know about. i changed my fuel filter which was 2 months old, it was already clogged pretty good. i mean come on now, it may not fix your car and maybe everything is good, but there is no real way of telling without physically testing.
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Old 04-19-2006, 09:51 PM   #18
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Ok, so I warmed up the car.. and then I unplugged the TPS and it died.
Figured I had adjusted the screw too much when the TPS was plugged in so I backed it off and started the car again.

It was running fine, so I adjusted the idle to around 750-800.
I plugged the TPS back in and the idle jumped up again to just below 1k.

I went around driving and it wouldn't stall anymore, but the RPMs did drop below idle status for a quick second. (I was out of boost the whole time.)

But now my idle is higher than I want again.
Bad TPS? I'm gonna go measure the voltage on it now.
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Old 04-19-2006, 09:57 PM   #19
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yeah i have the same thing going on, and for me i know my tps is good because i tested the voltage. i set the idle around 850 and it always ends up around 1000 after i plug the tps in. maybe it is going bad, its testing good though. might be the actual AICV.
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:00 PM   #20
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Sure the car was warmed up? like off the cold map?
Get rid of the rice whistle.

The KA's TB fully closes at idle. The TPS should read it closed and open the IACV. Check the voltage. could just be out of alignment.
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:11 PM   #21
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Get a BOV you can recirc. Done.
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:20 PM   #22
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Yah, the thermo read in the middle of the guage before I unplugged the TPS.
How do you align the TPS? I've never removed it so I don't know how it could have miss-aligned.

And you guys wanna buy me a BOV? I got this one for free!!

And its not stalling anymore, revs just still drop and now idle is back higher 'cuz of TPS! READ RITZ! lol <3
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:28 PM   #23
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Did you set the timing? Set the timing, then idle. Warm up motor to operating temp, disconnect tps, rev past 3k 3 times to lock timing and put ecu in timing mode, set the timing, then set the idle. You have to be in timing mode to set the idle properly.
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:42 PM   #24
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Set timing how? Timing is set where it needs to be.
Please clarify.
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Old 04-19-2006, 11:14 PM   #25
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to adjust the tps, you need to loosten the two bolts so you can swivel it. then just turn the car to on and stick multi meter leads in the back of the plug and watch the voltage as someone presses on the gas pedal. cant remember the specs so you need to check your FSM since you are KA-T. SR is like 4.4 volts at wide open or something like that.
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Old 04-26-2006, 03:59 PM   #26
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im having this same problem. i know my afc has decel setting but is it good to use that? if not, id rather just recirc the bov. i have the blitz dd. i know theres a thread on here somewhere on how to recirc these bovs
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Old 04-26-2006, 04:03 PM   #27
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Yah, use the Decel or recirc.

Recirculating is good. I will eventually do it when I'm at the point where I can just buy another BOV or I can get a type-H fitting for my BOV.
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Old 04-26-2006, 05:07 PM   #28
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its just that when i use the decel function, my idle stays at like 1100rpm then drops to about 850 after a while of idle. this happens when im daily driving and comming to stop lights :/ its annoying.
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Old 04-26-2006, 05:12 PM   #29
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Its happening to me too.

Recirc time.
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Old 04-26-2006, 05:13 PM   #30
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It has been my experience that KA's do not like having to suck though a slowly spinning compressor. I had a Type H diverter valve and my idle still sat a 1k where with the tps unplugged and timing set properly the idle was at 700. My idle bounced between 500 and 1k and sometimes died once fully warm. Setting the decel air didn't help either.
When I decreased the spring force on the Type H so that it would open under the vacumme of idle the problem went away. Since I did not want the cap to go flying off into the engine bay, I ended up getting a forge diveter for an Evo 8 and using the softest spring. Idles is beautiful and even though I have SAFC, I don't need Decel Air settings.
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