|11-06-2004, 11:42 AM||#1|
okay, well we have an SR and a KA sticky post but no CA Post, i just thought that id open this up to anyone intrested in the motor or is in need of info reguarding replacement parts or aftermarket parts support. If anyone has anything to add then thats fine but can you please try and keep discussions out of this post unless you are in a dilema. Please, le'ts try and keep this post up because a lot of members need places like this to resort to on ZILVIA besides the hefty SEARCH button. anyhow ill jott down some info to start it off./
Last edited by sLiDewAys; 11-06-2004 at 12:41 PM.. Reason: needed to change the tittle.
|11-06-2004, 12:13 PM||#2|
*(Credit goes to http://www.ca18det.org )*
If you are looking for parts, tell the autoparts store that you have an 88' Nissan Pulsar NX SE. It will be the correct part 99% of the time!
Oxygen Sensor CA18ET 200sx Bosch 13276 $47.99
Spark Plugs CA18ET* 200sx NGK PFR6A-11 $Varies
PCV Valve CA18DE Pulsar NX Bosch PCV142 $2.99
Thermostat CA18DE Pulsar NX 491-180 $4.99
Thermo Gasket CA18DE Pulsar NX Felpro 35228 $0.89
Water Pump** CA18DE Pulsar NX B150-1350 $33.99
Upper Rad. Hose KA24DE 240SX L-564 $7.99
Lower Rad. Hose KA24DE 240SX M-563 $7.39
Oil Filter CA18DE Pulsar NX Bosch 3400 $5.49
Alt Belt 4pk855 $9.99
PS Belt 4pk845 $8.99
AC Belt 4pk840 $8.99
* Exhaust side needed
** Includes Gasket
Other Spark Plug Options:
PFR6/BCPR6's for standard (gap of 1.1mm)
PFR7/BCPR7's for lightly modded (gap of 0.8-10mm - see what works for you)
BCR8's for high boost applications. (gap 0.6-0.8 dependant on boost level)
Oil filter 15208-H8911 Ryco Z386 or Ryco Z145A
Door bump rubbers 01658-J7000 (Skyline R31)
Exhaust manifold gasket 14036-D4200 (EXA 1.8, S13 CA18) Four separate pieces
Intake manifold gasket 14035-D5710 (CA18 all) Injector rail to cylinder head
Intake manifold gasket 14035-D5711 (CA18 all) Injector rail to intake runner
Intake manifold gasket 14035-53J10 (SR20 all)
Turbo inlet flange gasket 14415-75F10 (200SX)
or 14415-17M00 (S13 all) The Aust 200SX one fits.
Turbo outlet flange gasket 14445-26E00 (S13 all)
Engine front oil seal 13042-42L00 (CA18 all)
Engine rear oil seal 12279-18V00 (CA18 all)
Oil pan seal front 11121-01F10 (CA18 all)
Oil pan seal rear 11121-01F15 (CA18 all)
Head gasket 11044-51E00 (CA18 all)
Head gasket 11044-50F00 (SR20) until 9/92
Head gasket 11044-50F01 (SR20) from 9/92 till 7/93
Head gasket 11044-50F10 (SR20) from7/93 onwards
Engine gasket kit 10101-51E25 (CA18D) Engine rebuild gasket kits
Engine gasket kit 10101-56E25 (CA18DET)
Engine gasket kit 10101-50E25 (SR20DET)
Engine gasket kit 10101-51E26 (SR20D)
Flywheel Bolts 12315-55M00 $2.18
Valve grind gasket kit 11042-51E25 (CA18 all)
Valve grind gasket kit 11042-50F25 (SR20 all)
Fan belt 11720-V7301 (CA18 all) L = 855mm
Fan belt 11720-52F00 (SR20 all)
Compressor belt 11920-V7301 (CA18 all) also suits power steering pump
Compressor belt 11920-30R10 (SR20 all) also suits power steering pump
Water pump 21010-V5528 (CA18) until 8/90
Water pump 21010-V5529 (CA18) from 8/90
Water pump 21010-52F00 (SR20 all)
Thermostat 21200-V0201 (CA18 all) 82.0 C
Thermostat 21200-V0206 (CA18 all) 88.0 C
Thermostat 21200-53J00 (SR20 all)
Radiator cap 21430-01F01
Radiator hose - upper 21501-35F10 (CA18 all)
Radiator hose - lower 21503-35F00 (CA18 all)
Radiator hose - upper 21501-52F00 (SR20 all)
Radiator hose - lower 21503-52F00 (SR20 all)
Bonnet bump rubbers (large) 62840-D0100 (Skyline R31)
Engine coolant 10120-89904 Castrol
Dash switch back lights Nissan Aust, have similar types
$11.00 each **** Smith P8130, with fiddling needed or 12v lamps WT2-12 from WES Components, good fit. 65c each
Radius rods (Tension rods) 54468-35F20 (S13 all) includes bush Genuine Nissan imports (JSVA), Remanufactured with Urethane (Cars of Saigon ).
Wheel nut 62840-21001 (R31 Skyline)
Brake pads See service info page. Bendix and others.
heater hose w/valve part 02-0036 or p/n ch1649 same as 1988/90 holden commodore 3.8ltr
(needs to be cut slightly)
Headlight globe Who cares Any brand. H4 60/55W 12V or H4 100/55W 12V the second one has 100Watt high beam.
( shockers ) See Nissan Dealer or Nismo KONI. Part no. 80-401-081 sports kyb.
Approx $315 a pair.
Fuel filter 16400-F5100 (CA18 and SR20) RYCO Z202 or Z201
Air Filter 16546-V0100 (same as R31 Skyline) K&N high flow reusable type P/N 33-2031-1
Spark plugs 22401-58S16 (PFR6A11, CA18) Non resistor type NGK BCP6ES11 (11 = gap of 1.1mm)
Spark plugs 22401-53J16 (PRF6B, SR20DET)
Crank angle sensor 23731-85M10 (CA18 all)
Crank angle sensor 23731-50F01 (SR20 all)
Coolant temp sensor 25080-89903 (S13 all)
Steering Rack Boot (LHS) 48203-10V25 (same as local 300ZX, mabey R32 also)
Oil pressure sender unit 25210 89920 (generic nissan??)
Oil pressure sender 25240-89920 (S13 all)
Cam shaft timing belt 13028-51E25
Cam belt idler bearing 30BD219DWAX
Cam belt tenioner bearing. 35BD219DWAX
Clutch Master Cylinder rebuild kit. PBR Aust. K8690 (contains pistons).
K7689X (rubber components only).
Clutch Slave Cylinder 3062069F03
S13 Main Handbook (English) Nissan Publication SM9E-OS13G0 $230 tax ex.
RS13 Service Manual, Main Issue (Japanese) Nissan A008009 $143 Tax Ex
SR20DET S13 Engine supplement Nissan A008011 $187 Tax Ex
SR20DET S13 Wiring supplement Nissan A108012
crank sprocket - 13021-D4200 - $29.26
woodruff key - 00926-51900 - $1.02
crankshaft plate (behind sprocket) - 13022-42L00 - $1.78
Turbo Manifold gaskets -> head:
KA24 and CA18 use the same radiators (Unlike the SR) with both ports on the USDM passenger side
www.raretrick.com seems to carry quite a few CA products, including SAMCO CA18DET upper and lower radiator hoses as well as turbo hoses.
|11-06-2004, 12:25 PM||#3|
Join Date: Aug 2002
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
Here's another piece of info for the FAQ.
Q: "Hey WTFBBQ I can't find the stock recirc valve!!!1"
A: "That's cause your CA18 doesn't HAVE ONE! So go buy one."
Hot/cold pipes are not interchangeable between CA18 and SR20 motors.
Sidemount on the CA is slightly smaller than the SR one.
CA's are also generally older than SR20 motors; it is highly recommended you do some extra work before you swap it in (change ALL gaskets, including the HG if possible, blah blah blah). How far you take it (ex: ripping the whole motor apart) is up to you.
|11-06-2004, 12:26 PM||#4|
here are some random parts i ran accross while searching yahoo.
Ca18det Clutches ect.
Greddy Products for ca18det
- (forged pisstons)
- (Connecting Rods)
- (head gastket)
Random Parts List for s13/ca18det applications
Ca18det downpipes, 02' housings (aftermarket)
Random ca18det parts @
haha yeah so i was hella bored and thought maybe SOMEONE out there could bennefit from this info, anyway feel free to post if you find parts online anywhee.
|11-07-2004, 12:53 PM||#5|
here are some of the different fuel injectors you can use for upgrade out of OEM fitment vehicles;
here is a site
here are the different injectors you can run, RECCOMENDED!
1988 RX-7 195500-1350 Saturated 460cc Purple Top
1988 RX-7 195500-1370 Saturated 550cc Purple Top
1989-91 RX-7 195500-2010 Saturated 460cc Red Top
1989-91 RX-7 195500-2020 Saturated 550cc Purple Top
1993-up RX-7 Twin-Turbo Saturated Primary 550cc Secondary 850cc
1990-'96 300ZX Twin-Turbo Saturated 370cc
Last edited by sLiDewAys; 11-07-2004 at 11:21 PM.. Reason: new info
|11-08-2004, 11:26 PM||#7|
yeah, those too, thanks for the contribution man. I swear to you that it is greatly appreciated.
OKAY new contribution concerning ca18det wiring harness made to fit USDM s13's.
1)The wiring harness needs to be modified EXACTLY the same at the sr20det for s13. Follow the same guidlines for harness modifications. if you need any help or info reguarding the matter then im me : AIM d0wn5h1ft :
2) Concerning t he 2nd charcole canister ( you will only have this if you buy a clip) It is located on the driver side (rdh vehicles only) next to the brake master cylindar.
-There are 3 vacume lines that follow out of this box and route underneath the intake manifold ( green, blue, and red)
-one is for your fuel pressure regulator, one if for your wastgate, the other is for (.....i need to research this because i am not shure)
-this cannister IS NOT reccomended for the swap over so just do yourself a favor and eliminate it, route the vacume lines into eachother so it is a cycle of vacume.
3) Wiring harness MAJOR extension points
-MAFS and Drop Resistor
-Ignitor Chip wires( believe that there are 3) lengthen about 1 or 2 inches.
-Re-pin the two plugs next to the battery terminal ( i believe that they are grey and red)
4) reguarding PRE-instalation reccomendations
-Timing belt and Belt Tensioner
-Intake manifold gastkets(2)
-Exhasut manifold gastket(4)
-Manifold to turbo gastket
-sr20det O2' extension elbow
-sr20det downpipe ( aftermarket or oe)
-check oil pan for dents and bang them out if so
-resurface flywheel, and purchase new clutch
-front and rear maine seal ( check and observe them both) rear is most important.
these are the major things i reccomend for replacement BEFORE swap.
Last edited by sLiDewAys; 11-08-2004 at 11:47 PM..
|11-09-2004, 08:13 PM||#8|
I just found a great place that is located in japan but specialized in shipping out orders to the united states and europe
|11-10-2004, 05:33 PM||#9|
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
If you have any other questions feel free to ask them. I've probably already done it with my CA.
1991 240SX LE Fastback SOLD!!
1992 USDM OneVia CA18DET powered SOLD!!
1996 240SX Base Model Rockin' the 4 Lug
1995 240SX Base Model $400 project car... and it runs!
|11-10-2004, 10:25 PM||#10|
link for those pistons: http://www.trust-power.com/02greddy/...on_nissan.html
link for those rods: http://www.trust-power.com/02greddy/connecting_rod.html
link for those headgaskets: http://www.trust-power.com/02greddy/...et_nissan.html
My project car...
From dust you were born,
And to the ashes you return ~ Kill Switch Engage
Quagmire: Hey, how old are you sweet thang?
Quagmire: 18? Alllll-right!
Quagmire: I like where this is going, Giggidy giggidy gig-gi-dy!
|11-11-2004, 01:43 AM||#11|
Join Date: Oct 2003
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
This really doesn't apply to finding CA parts or anything but it sheds some light on the SR vs. CA debate. Here it be.
'91 240sx Fastback SuperHicas
My Car Domain Page
Last edited by morpheus8486; 12-07-2004 at 11:43 PM..
|11-11-2004, 04:16 PM||#12|
(quote) from midwest240sx.com
"The Technical @#%$:
The CA used an iron block unlike the SR which runs an aluminum block but despite that there is not much of an overall weight difference in the two motors. The CA LIKE THE SR has the piston oil squirters and crank stud girdle. The SR uses a 4 runner manifold into a 4 port head, the CA on the other hand runs a 4 runner manifold that splits into 8 entering the head as an 8 runner manifold. The big difference in the two motors is in the valvetrains. The SR20 only has 4 cam lobes per cam not 8 like the CA does. With 8 valves per side on the SR Nissan had to use a rocker arm arrangement to actuate paired valves simultaneously from a single lobe. It's cheaper to implement than the CA's setup but causes valvetrain loss and noise. The CA runs true 8 lobe cams which act directly on top of the valves. Much more effecient, less moving parts, better revs, etc.. That's one of the reasons that the CA is considered to be a more FREE REVVING engine than the SR. The biggest advantage the SR20 has is it is a bigger capacity motor. 2.0L in comparison to the CA's 1.8 ( no replacement for dispacement right?) . The SR20 has a relatively long stroke, it's stroke is longer than the width of it's bore. The stroke to rod length ratio is at a point where the engine still revs well, but it suffers from "excess stroke". This is another reason the the ca is considered to be better reving (smoother not higher), unlike the SR with it's "over-square" design the CA uses a square design (stroke=bore). The SR is capable of handling more power on the stock bottom end. I've heard of 400-450PS being possible with the correct tuning on a stock SR bottom end while 400PS isn't quite feasble with an CA18DET... A big reason again being the difference in displacement.
(quote) from midwest240sx.com
Those are just PLAIN FACTS, i do not favor the CA over the SR, i'm not here to tell you which is better. we face the facts that the ca is a 1.8L engine w/o as much torque as the sr20det. BUT, it does house more power than the NA ka24de w/mods! and i personally have no problem drifting/touge with my old lightly modified ka. but lets think
there is a turbo there for a reason, what reason? BOOST reasons. You can get a ca18 for consiterbly cheap. i got mine for 1200 from venus auto because a friend of mine as an account with them. 1200 for ca18 vs 2300 for sr20... thats a 1100 different where i can put MANY MANY mods into the ca18. which is what i have done...
not every motor will run like cherry! CA or Sr. they do come from japanese wrecking yards. every importer has their fair share fo sr and ca crappy motor clips so have your heads up and eyes open while choosing yours. Simple tools we use can tell the condition of a motor ie(compression tester, leak down testing, visually checkin the motor yourself) you pick the motor you will be running... so to end the allmighty ca vs sr discussion, buy what you think will suit you, because in the end u will be spending the same ammount of money on either motors!
|12-02-2004, 07:44 PM||#13|
Join Date: Nov 2004
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Hey guys am new to the forums and would like to say first off that I think that it is awesome that you guys are running this thread! The only other forum that I have been able to locate that has descent info on the CA or people that give a crap about it much less was at NICO forums. So am glad I found a group that has the same interests in the same motor as I do.
I have done extensive research on the motor yet still have plenty to learn! I actually have my CA in my garage right now. I am treating it as a pretty big and experimental project. Have the motor torn all the way down and am going bore the block to a 2.0 ltr here soon. I have found a source that I can get rods and pistons made for my application, which I have found to be much cheaper than Takkakaira. Will be porting the head as well, and installing firmer springs and bronze vlv guides. If anybody is interested in the custom pistons or rods just PM me and I'll put you in touch with the guy.
Will post more info later....gotta run. Again great thread guys!!
|12-25-2004, 01:05 AM||#14|
Join Date: Oct 2002
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
|04-08-2005, 02:06 PM||#16|
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Pale Blue Dot
Trader Rating: (26)
Feedback Score: 26 reviews
i'm pretty sure the ca18det ecu is similar to the other nissan ecu's. heres a writeup on finding the diagnostic codes for a sohc, might be similar to the ca18det:
1. Accessing to the ECU
The ECU is located to the right of the passenger footwell. You need to remove two fastener of the right doorstep in order to remove the kick panel. To remove the plastic fasteners, unscrew the center part and pull out the other part. Two metal screw and a fastener hold the kick panel. Some kind of pitch is also present.
Under the panel you now see the ECU with its connector. Unfortunaly, you have to access to the other side of the ECU. Unscrew the unit and turn it 180 degree on the vertical axis without unpluggin it.
You now see the front of the unit. An ajustment screw, a green inspection lamp and a red one are present. The screw is use to adjust the idle speed and to change the diagnostic mode.
MARK THE ORIGINAL POSITION OF THIS SCREW. UPON DIAGNOSTIC COMPLETION, RETURN THE SCREW TO THE PREVIOUS POSITION. OTHERWISE, ENGINE IDLE SPEED MAY CHANGE.
2. The ECU modes
The electronic control unit have five mode:
Mode I- Exhaust gas sensor monitor (Normal mode)
Mode II- Mixture ratio feedback control monitor
Mode III- Self-diagnostic
Mode IV- Switch on/off diagnostic system
Mode V- Real-time diagnostics system.
The unit automatically return to normal mode I when the ignition is switched off.
Only mode III will be studied here. Troubles code are stored on mode III. The stored codes will be lost if the car battery is disconnected or if after selecting mode III, mode IV is selected.
3. Changing to mode III.
- Turn the ignition 'ON'
- Turn the ECU adjusting screw fully clockwise.
The inspection lamps will flash onces, the unit will be in mode I. The inspection lamps will flash twice, the unit will be in mode II. The inspection lamps will flash 3 times, the unit will be in mode III. The unit will continually cycle through the five modes until the screw is turn back.
- Turn the screw back after the lamp has flashed 3 times.
- You are now in self diagnostic mode III.
4. Reading the trouble codes.
The codes are indicated by the number of both red and green lamps. First the red lamp flashes and then the green one. The red lamp correspond to units of ten and the green lamp to units of one. For example, when the red lamp flashes once and the green lamp flashs twice, this signifies the number "12".
|04-10-2005, 03:50 PM||#17|
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: san diego
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
if anyone is interested in using the ka lower harness on the ca, this is actually really easy, and i would do it this way even if i had the ca lower harness.
well, just plug in all the altenator and oil pressure units, as well as the large ring connector for the starter. next, cut up the tape of the lower harness up about a foot or so, this is because the wires need to manuver around the oil filter, some will go above some will go below, just whatever is easiest.
now, for the starter, the one plug that is still unplugged,the connector that is flat and sticks out, cut the connector off of your old ka starter, then just plug that in to its apropriate clip, then, with the wire heading out of the clip, that you just cut, crimp on one of the connectors that will fit right on it snug.
it is the similiar to a ring style connector but would go around the starter on the ca, youll know what im talking aobut when you see it.
lastly, the knock sensor, for this, just take the plugmif you have one,and solder in some shielded wire, you can take the wire out of your old wiring harness, its just a grey wire that goes to your mafs etc that hase extra wire coiled around the inside smaller wire. just sodder it onto the plug or right onto the sensor. a easy way to strip shielded wire is to cut to the first wire at an angle, then peel the shielded part back and just do it like you normally would from there.
then, have the know sensor wire go toyour ecu, then find pin number 23, and splice your new know sensor wire into the wire coming out of that pin.
that is it. good luck!
note, if you had a dohc car, the knock sensor will plug right in. the sohc will not plug in becuase there was no knock sensor on the sohc models.
|05-02-2005, 10:42 AM||#18|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Lansing, Michigan
Trader Rating: (1)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
I love you zilvia. We should make a pdf with all the CA information in it so that way we wont have to waste any of zilvia's space with all the random CA questions. Speaking of questions, I have one involving gauge clusters. I know that when you swap in an sr20 you need a cluster from a 91^ s13 for the tach to work. Is this true with the ca? Or can an sohc cluster be used instead? If it matters I'm driving a '90 coupe. Thanks.
|06-21-2005, 09:03 AM||#19|
i didnt see this on the page so i figured id post it for those who didnt know as it may be common knowledge
all sr turbines will bolt right onto the stock ca manifold oil lines are compatible (not sure if GTIR lines are)...only mods needed to make it work is you may have to clock the copressor side to clear the exhaust manifold for the outlet
also the s14 sr coldpipe from fmic kits fit the ca
thats all i can think of as of now
|06-30-2005, 01:34 AM||#20|
I hate you too...
STOP POSTING BULLSHIT AND QUESTIONS IN THIS *FAQ*
I just spent 20 minutes pruning 30-40 posts from this rediculous thread. I should pink slideways and hachi roku, but that's another 5 minutes I don't want to spend on this thread.
I will say:
THIS THREAD IS FOR ANSWERS ONLY! Not questions. And definately NOT FOR HOLDING PRIVATE FUCKING CONVERSATIONS!
Grow the fuck up. If I have to waste my time and delete unnecessary shit from this thread again, I will pink people, and lock this thread.
|06-30-2005, 02:16 AM||#21|
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: san diego
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
for using the sr turbo on the ca18, it works great, just need to clock it with some of the snap ring pliers about 10 degreees. also, sr hot pipe works, just not the cold pipe. i am using the ejuku s13 sr hot pipe for the sr on my smic right now no problems. also dunno if this has been sai ka14de clutch works , just need to remove 1 fly wheel alignment pin with vice grips. also use s13 throw out bearing as well. nismo thermostat for sr has been used as well.its recomneded to drive with out the decorativce coil pack cover on becasue it traps heat and destropy coil packs earlier than they need to be.
|06-30-2005, 04:50 PM||#23|
not reading that post from him......
anyhow.. i jsut purchased the ssautochrom ca18det package for manifold, 02 dump and catless downpipe, the fitment is great. so if anyone wants pics or has questions on that just get at me on my aim.
|08-01-2005, 09:40 AM||#24|
Join Date: Jul 2005
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
yeah i also got that package from ssa, it sounds great (maybe not to good at low revs, but at high revs real nice) i notice a better respond and some more power
ps.: DONT yeah i realy mean DONT use the silencer!!!! when you got the package put it and throw it away
|11-13-2005, 12:14 PM||#27|
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: elkhart/muncie IN
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
New to Zilvia, not new to cars or the CA. Thought you guys would love this if you didnt already know and to put it on the FAQ. A much cheaper alternative for a headgasket.
Cometic Multi-Layer Steel Headgasket for CA18DET
Cometic Part # H2207051S
Price as of this post $97.30
Available in thicknesses ranging from 0.9mm all the way to 2.0mm. Tell them what thickness when ordering.
|11-14-2005, 11:25 AM||#29|
"A CA? WTF is that? You shoulda got an SR yo."
View my vBPicGallery!
|11-14-2005, 12:27 PM||#30|
ka24de altornator works, and that is what i am using. no need for part number. comes off ka24de 240sx.all plugs match up and i make the top bracket for them to used on ca. if u are intrested the brackets and bolts w/washers from me are 10.00 shipped.
dont ask becasue its my design.