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Old 02-23-2014, 03:24 PM   #1
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Sr Camshaft Sprocket Trouble

Today I was in the process of removing the head of my s14 sr20det notch top. When trying to remove the camshaft sprocket the wrench I was using to hold the cam in place was too wide and it slipped causing me to spin the camshaft sprocket and the chain jumped. Being the genius I am I tried to spin it the other way to get it back where it should be and the chain jumped again. I'm just wondering what could have possibly gotten mucked up and how I can fix whatever got messed up. Could I just remove the front cover and redo the entire timing?





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Old 02-23-2014, 08:05 PM   #2
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You could have put a little hurt on the chain and a chance you couldve damaged a valve but i doubt it. I'd recommend you have some guidance if this is your first head pull, there's just a lot that can go wrong and its not the easiest job.
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Old 02-24-2014, 12:29 AM   #3
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whoa. the chain jumped. Do not pull any thing except the valve cover to fix it.

Very simply you could search.

but if you do this, I think you will be fine.

Set the crankshaft to piston #1 TDC. You should know which line that is, right? (Second Line from the left) the first line, farthest left, is -5* BTDC iirc
With that set, take out the timing chain tensioner so you can fool with the chain.

Pull the chain away from each sprocket individually and turn the camshaft by hand until the lobes point straight out, and ever so slightly up. I Mean EVER so slightly, like BARELY up from the straight out positoin. BOTH lobes on BOTH camshafts should point STRAIGHT OUTWARDS and SLIGHTLY up. Like 2-3* up. If arnt sure how far up, just go perfectly straight outwards. the real reason to do this is to give a bit of slack between the camshaft gears. When you re-install the tensioner this slack dissapears.

Then all you have to do is set the number of links between the dots and your done. You DO know how many links go between the dots right? Someome post up a picture of that....
its 11 Links including the links on the dots.
http://www.sr20-forum.com/naturally-...ft-timing.html

note the links straddle the dots.

btw the dots should be 10 and 12 o'clock position with both lobes pointing directly outwards.
http://www.sr20forum.com/sr20de-tech...h-how-fix.html
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:55 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post
whoa. the chain jumped. Do not pull any thing except the valve cover to fix it.

Very simply you could search.

but if you do this, I think you will be fine.

Set the crankshaft to piston #1 TDC. You should know which line that is, right? (Second Line from the left) the first line, farthest left, is -5* BTDC iirc
With that set, take out the timing chain tensioner so you can fool with the chain.

Pull the chain away from each sprocket individually and turn the camshaft by hand until the lobes point straight out, and ever so slightly up. I Mean EVER so slightly, like BARELY up from the straight out positoin. BOTH lobes on BOTH camshafts should point STRAIGHT OUTWARDS and SLIGHTLY up. Like 2-3* up. If arnt sure how far up, just go perfectly straight outwards. the real reason to do this is to give a bit of slack between the camshaft gears. When you re-install the tensioner this slack dissapears.

Then all you have to do is set the number of links between the dots and your done. You DO know how many links go between the dots right? Someome post up a picture of that....
its 11 Links including the links on the dots.
http://www.sr20-forum.com/naturally-...ft-timing.html

note the links straddle the dots.

btw the dots should be 10 and 12 o'clock position with both lobes pointing directly outwards.
http://www.sr20forum.com/sr20de-tech...h-how-fix.html
That should fix you right up!
/thread
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:58 AM   #5
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I should mention the tensioner was already taken out and there was slack on the timing chain, so I think that lessens the possible damage to the chain. I went and continued with pulling the head (it is my first time, although I do have a tremendous amount of help) and will realign the timing once I put everything back together.
And thank you Kingtal0n, huge help! I needed to look up how many links I would need to have between the dots on the cam sprockets at 10 and 12.
Whenever I put my crank at tdc (second indention from the left) mine were at 10 and 2 o'clock I believe. That's also what I read a few times, is that wrong? Or are we talking about the "dowel pin" location?
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Old 02-28-2014, 06:08 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grocery Cart View Post
I should mention the tensioner was already taken out and there was slack on the timing chain, so I think that lessens the possible damage to the chain. I went and continued with pulling the head (it is my first time, although I do have a tremendous amount of help) and will realign the timing once I put everything back together.
And thank you Kingtal0n, huge help! I needed to look up how many links I would need to have between the dots on the cam sprockets at 10 and 12.
Whenever I put my crank at tdc (second indention from the left) mine were at 10 and 2 o'clock I believe. That's also what I read a few times, is that wrong? Or are we talking about the "dowel pin" location?
If the intake dot is at 10, and the exhaust dot is at TWO, then you have more than 11 links from dot to dot(which is wrong). Furthermore, your cam lobes are not both facing directly outwards (they should be). adjust the cams so that the lobes are facing directly outwards with the engine at TDC piston#1. THEN slap the chain on the cam gears, with 11 links from dot to dot, like in the pictures. follow a picture.

You should THEN be able to notice the DOTS at 10 and 12. 10 on the left, 12 on the right, facing the engine. 10 is the intake side.

If you are pulling the head, you will need to pull the oil pump to remove the timing guide. The head will not come off without removal of the guide.
At least, I couldnt get it off with the the guide in place. I did not want to force it though.
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Old 02-28-2014, 06:15 PM   #7
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Here is a picture of me (unsuccessfully) trying to remove the head with the guide in place.

Wouldnt come off. had to pull the front pump to get to the guide first.
Thinking about it now, maybe it was because that engine had head studs.
Having head studs means no forward or backward movement on the way up or down, so yours might come off. I would try first before doing all the extra work.

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Old 02-28-2014, 07:07 PM   #8
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Pretty sure it comes off fine with the guides when you have head bolts since you can rotate the head over so you're not trying to fit the "big part" of the guide separation through at one time.
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:08 PM   #9
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Old 03-01-2014, 12:16 AM   #10
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Hahaha, thanks a lot guys. Yeah the head is off. Actually I got it the day I posted this, I was just worried about what could have been messed up from the timing. My head gasket and arp studs should be in Tuesday/Wednesday so once those are in and I can put it all back together, I'll follow everyone's advice on getting the timing reset.
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Old 04-18-2014, 06:51 PM   #11
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Update: I finally got some time after finishing my headgasket and getting a few more parts in and went finished up putting my cams in and dropping the motor in. Now I have two questions.
1. I have my crank at TDC (and have spunt it past a few times to get the silver links at the top) but they're never at 10 and 12 o'clock. Instead, exhaust side of the timing chain is usually at around ~3-4 o'clock and is tight. I'm guessing right now because I forgot to take pictures. But the motor is on the stand at a slight angle, so +/- 3-4o'clock. Anyway, I feel like I'm not missing anything so does that mean it's time to take off the front cover and redo the timing completely?
2. I forgot the second question, will edit if I remember.
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