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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars


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Old 09-26-2012, 08:02 AM   #1
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BC 272 cams, retarding and advancing with adjustable cam gears

anyone running BC 272 cams with JWT cam gears

what did you guys advance your cams to on the intake side and exhaust side that works will with the BC cams

need some input ASAP i'll be dyno tuning my motor within a few weeks.
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:03 AM   #2
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yes please same question with the 264
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Old 09-26-2012, 08:51 AM   #3
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Sell the 272's. They will NEVER tune right.

264's are ok, but BC got retarded on 272's. I had a NIGHTMARE with them and their customer service is like talking to Hezbollah's complaint department.
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Old 09-26-2012, 09:07 AM   #4
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yeah i was told some of the 272's fine with you adjust the cam gears
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:24 AM   #5
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i wanna say i went -6 on my intake with a tomei gear. nothing wrong with BC's
just like anything manufactured there can be a bad batch. however i have had zero issues with mine with lots punishment throw at them
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:02 AM   #6
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U guys need to degree the cam that's why they don't work right
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:14 AM   #7
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only reason i went -6 is thats where th epower was for my set up.
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:15 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godrifttoday View Post
U guys need to degree the cam that's why they don't work right

yeah thats why i want to degree it to make it work right. i've been reading alot about these cams seems like those who figure it stopped posting on the FWD SR forums.
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:16 AM   #9
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there is no right # to go by each set up will work diffferent. a friend had BC272's and he went -2 in -2 exhaust on his set up.
without datalogging there is no way to really tell.
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Old 09-26-2012, 11:29 AM   #10
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Quote:
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there is no right # to go by each set up will work diffferent. a friend had BC272's and he went -2 in -2 exhaust on his set up.
without datalogging there is no way to really tell.

There's the wrong way to do it... And there is your way of doing it... And there is the manufactures way to do it... Just because you read on the Internet of someone doing that to his setup, it don't mean it will work for u... Too many variables involved

I know which one I'll select... Lol of not mistaken all manufactured of after market cams tell u at what degree your cams need to be set at to work as intended.... If you deviate from it, then your car would be harder to idle and u won't gain any performance gains... A lot of videos on YouTube on how to degree your cams
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Old 09-26-2012, 12:11 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godrifttoday View Post
There's the wrong way to do it... And there is your way of doing it... And there is the manufactures way to do it... Just because you read on the Internet of someone doing that to his setup, it don't mean it will work for u... Too many variables involved

I know which one I'll select... Lol of not mistaken all manufactured of after market cams tell u at what degree your cams need to be set at to work as intended.... If you deviate from it, then your car would be harder to idle and u won't gain any performance gains... A lot of videos on YouTube on how to degree your cams
yes their are tons of things that play a factor which is what i am saying, he cant go by 1 persons way and it will work on his set up.
but there are lots of "things" they say wont work or wont make power but they indeed do.
so just stick to the basics!
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Old 09-27-2012, 08:22 AM   #12
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this is for an SR

The intake cam is on a 108 centerline and the exhaust is on a 116 centerline.

Zero is the starting point but you can retard the intake 1-2 degrees and advance the exhaust 1-2 degrees to widen the lobe separation to smooth out the power band and eliminate any overlap.

this is for a KA

The intake cam is on a 121 lobe center and the exhaust is on a 116 lobe center. This is actually the same timing as the OEM cams and I believe the JWT cam are very close as well.

leave the exhaust cam on the 116 lobe and advance the cam intake 2 cam degrees which is 4 crank degrees (1 cam degree = 2 crank degrees)

Zero is always the starting point unless you are going to put a degree wheel on the crank but this would be the recommendation.
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