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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 12-09-2011, 11:06 AM   #1
Bunnywith240
 
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Car still overheating. Just replaced radiator, water pump and thermo.

Okay guys I need your help. Here's the breakdown:

Car overheated suddenly one day. Plastic OEM radiator cracked.

Purchased brand new Mishimoto radiator, Nissan thermo and water pump.

I didn't test the old thermo but the spring looked faulty. Replaced the water pump since I was getting in there anyways and better to replace it now even though it was working fine(currently at 138,000 miles).

Replaced everything, buttoned it back up, purged the air out of the bleeder valve. Warmed up the car let the thermo open and topped off the coolant. Shit is still overheating, WTF???

Upper radiator hose is hot while lower hose and water neck are cool to touch.

Help a brah out.


EDIT: PROBLEM SOLVED.

I think we can say that on a KA you have to bleed the system, run the car till the thermo opens, then fill and bleed again and you should be good to go.

Last edited by Bunnywith240; 12-10-2011 at 10:39 AM..
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:47 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunnywith240 View Post
Okay guys I need your help. Here's the breakdown:

Car overheated suddenly one day. Plastic OEM radiator cracked.

Purchased brand new Mishimoto radiator, Nissan thermo and water pump.

I didn't test the old thermo but the spring looked faulty. Replaced the water pump since I was getting in there anyways and better to replace it now even though it was working fine(currently at 138,000 miles).

Replaced everything, buttoned it back up, purged the air out of the bleeder valve. Warmed up the car let the thermo open and topped off the coolant. Shit is still overheating, WTF???

Upper radiator hose is hot while lower hose and water neck are cool to touch.

Help a brah out.
Do you have a KA?
If so, was your car on an 80 degree incline you did this? If not you should do it again .

Also check the CTS with a multimeter.
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:31 PM   #3
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I'm experiencing a similar issue. Try and see if the coolant circulates with the t-stat removed. My car just started overheating on me recently (radiator, water pump, and t-stat are less than a year old.) Coolant just stopped circulating. Replaced the t-stat with a new one, and same thing. Today I just took the t-stat off and now coolant is circulating. I'm starting to suspect a heater line/heater core might be clogged.
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Old 12-09-2011, 11:05 PM   #4
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Old 12-10-2011, 12:17 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by S13x88 View Post
I'm experiencing a similar issue. Try and see if the coolant circulates with the t-stat removed. My car just started overheating on me recently (radiator, water pump, and t-stat are less than a year old.) Coolant just stopped circulating. Replaced the t-stat with a new one, and same thing. Today I just took the t-stat off and now coolant is circulating. I'm starting to suspect a heater line/heater core might be clogged.
Before you go swapping thermostats, pop off the radiator cap with the engine cold, start the car, and check to make sure it's flowing.
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Old 12-10-2011, 12:21 AM   #6
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Before you go swapping thermostats, pop off the radiator cap with the engine cold, start the car, and check to make sure it's flowing.
I had already done this with a thermostat in place. I had no circulation. I achieved circulation with the t-stat removed. I believe that coolant goes through the heater by-pass hose when the t-stat is closed. If I have a heater line clogged, it could explain why I was over-heating. Could be the same issue with OP.

OP, check for circulation with the t-stat on. If there isn't, remove the t-stat and then check.
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Old 12-10-2011, 12:41 AM   #7
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Theres defective oem nissan thermostats floating around,a cold lower hose means the thermostat isnt opening,when u run without a thermo,both hoses are somewhat warm because ofthe constant flow,so normally,both hoses need to be warm to hot,i have 3 NEW,yes new nissan thermostats,put all 3 in a pot and boiled water,inserted temp gauge and one opens up at 76c other 2 dont START to open till about 95c,so by the time its fully open,the gauge reads 120c.,i bled the air out a million times till I thought to test them,i figuered new nissan oem parts wouldnt fail,the one that works looks different,the other 2 have the outer parts like non oem,but I purchased them at nissan......also make sure you installed the thermostat correct,the jiggle valve on the stat needs to be at 12oclock
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Old 12-10-2011, 05:03 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by silver350z05rb View Post
Theres defective oem nissan thermostats floating around,a cold lower hose means the thermostat isnt opening,when u run without a thermo,both hoses are somewhat warm because ofthe constant flow,so normally,both hoses need to be warm to hot,i have 3 NEW,yes new nissan thermostats,put all 3 in a pot and boiled water,inserted temp gauge and one opens up at 76c other 2 dont START to open till about 95c,so by the time its fully open,the gauge reads 120c.,i bled the air out a million times till I thought to test them,i figuered new nissan oem parts wouldnt fail,the one that works looks different,the other 2 have the outer parts like non oem,but I purchased them at nissan......also make sure you installed the thermostat correct,the jiggle valve on the stat needs to be at 12oclock
Well fuck. So much for OEM quality. What happens if the "jiggle valve" on the "stat" isn't at 12 o'clock?? I let the engine cool down, went in the garage and as soon as I loosened the rad cap, it let out some pressure and was room for more agua. I refilled again and loosened the bleeder valve. Used a funnel and filled it till water came shooting out of the bleeder and capped that hoe. I hope that kinda solves it. Can't start the car up too late and piss off the neighbors. Well I could but that'd be a dick move.

Appreciate the help fellas. I'll check back in and update tomorrow.
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:57 AM   #9
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Could be a number of things check your rad cap first learned this yesterday in my automotive class at uti its cooling system week lucky for you so yeah those caps are what create pressure in the system if not some other causes of overheating could be incorrect timing, lean air fuel mixture, exhaust restriction and incorrect cam timing so could be anything after you exhaust all efforts check those few things good luck
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Old 12-10-2011, 08:56 AM   #10
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Pop the T-stat and check to make sure it opens. Boil it in water and see if it pops open. Use a cooking thermo to make sure it opens when its supposed to.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:23 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Bunnywith240 View Post
Well fuck. So much for OEM quality. What happens if the "jiggle valve" on the "stat" isn't at 12 o'clock?? I let the engine cool down, went in the garage and as soon as I loosened the rad cap, it let out some pressure and was room for more agua. I refilled again and loosened the bleeder valve. Used a funnel and filled it till water came shooting out of the bleeder and capped that hoe. I hope that kinda solves it. Can't start the car up too late and piss off the neighbors. Well I could but that'd be a dick move.

Appreciate the help fellas. I'll check back in and update tomorrow.
Lol,idk maybe a bad batch of thermos,honda mustve gotton into our parts supply and messed with our thermos.....one time I thought the thermo opened up and air was coming out the bleeder valve,but it was just coolant coming from the radiator top hose due to the radiator being full.
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Old 12-10-2011, 10:38 AM   #12
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Okay gentlemen, good news. The second bleed attempt worked. Ran the car in idle mode and held 3KRPM revs a few times and this car is purring like a kitten. No more overheating and in this weather, the car is running very cool. It amazes me how rocksteady this car is at idle. The motor doesn't move AT ALL.
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Old 12-12-2011, 02:40 PM   #13
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Keep an eye out on it still, my shit overheated the other day, let it cool down and it didnt overheat again. Thought maybe the radiator was low or something, it was completely full. HG might be going out so its being sporadic.
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Old 12-12-2011, 03:27 PM   #14
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have you tried putting a new Temp gauge in the cluster? i had the same problem and replaced ever single cooling component and it still claimed to over heat replaced it and boom it was fix..
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