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Old 05-13-2008, 12:58 AM   #1
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Running without o2 sensor

Ok guys, i just bought a megan turbo elbow and its for a fat o2 sensor and my redtop has a skinny o2 sensor. Question...What to do...Do I run without an o2 sensor? The car is obd 1 so the o2 sensor doesn't do much though it will improve gas mileage at cruising speeds.
Or..do i weld the skinny o2sensor to the fat bung and hope that it works.

I know there's other options but dont really want to go out and buy a fatty o2 sensor or another elbow to suit my needs. Any help is appreciated. thanks
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Old 05-13-2008, 01:01 AM   #2
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There should be an adapter for the skinny o2
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Old 05-13-2008, 01:05 AM   #3
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I think theres adapters availiable....also I know the stock exhaust manifold on an sohc has and adapter. I figured that out when I put headers on my sohc, I unscrewed the o2 and it was obviously to skinny for the hole on my headers then I realized I could unscrew the other part on my exhaust manifold. I have an extra one you can have, wortha try?
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Old 05-13-2008, 01:06 AM   #4
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I didn't know about that. I'll search around. oh and thanks for the rep bump on the DIY thread.
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Old 05-13-2008, 01:08 AM   #5
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So you have an adapter for it? something that screws into the fatty and threads it down to the skinny? sounds good. where you at? pm me.
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Old 05-13-2008, 01:20 AM   #6
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You can order the adapter piece from Nissan if you have to. I believe its around $11.

Part #: 20607-V5000
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Old 05-13-2008, 01:26 AM   #7
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Yeah, all the new Megan elbows come with an adapter. I drilled/tapped my "plug" to fit the skinny one once, and then on my next one just got a blacktop o2 sensor that fit the hole, and then replaced that elbow and the new one had the adapter

Don't run without an o2 sensor if you can help it.
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Old 05-13-2008, 01:30 AM   #8
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i can't find a site that sells it. I have a nissan dealer right around the corner, i'll just hit them up. thanks guys! +1
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Old 05-13-2008, 06:18 AM   #9
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this ones more expensive but if ya can't find it at the dealer her ya go http://enjukuracing.com/spec-sensor-...ml?cPath=24_57
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:28 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoguRacing View Post
What to do
Run a Z32 O2 sensor. Problem solved.

Cliff's notes of the earlier o2 threads:

Some say skinny and fatty are different and not interchangeable.

I say if you can show the data stream for a skinny vs. a fatty on the same engine and recording data at the same time, then maybe you can make a case that they're different. But even then, you have to show that the ECU is actually processing the two signals differently somehow.

So far no one cared enough to do this so run whatever you want.
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:36 AM   #11
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^--spot on.

depending how crusty and old your skinny o2 sensor is, just pick up a new fat type o2 sensor from a z32. same plug and everything. the exact details are in the SR20DET FAQs.

just look at it this way, do you REALLY wanna waste your time buying an adapter to adapt the skinny type that isn't even available here?

it's like buying a big as TV antenna and putting it on your roof, which is a waste because they're turnign off analog air broadcasts in 2009 anyway lol
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:49 AM   #12
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I don't want to dig it up again, but the big arguments from them was that the skinny and the fatty send a different signal to the ECU, and the ECU gets confused if you mix and match.

My position was that at best the signal is more responsive on one type over the other, but the ECU takes an average of the sensor reading over a period of time, and o2 reading isn't a crucial parameter anyway.

Does anybody want to run some testing?
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:52 AM   #13
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Damn beat me too it^^

Its cheaper (here as far a new one goes)

http://www.thenismoshop.com/ikorb.ph...roduct_id=1607

Fat Vs Skinny One uses a voltage signal and the other uses a resistor
there was a thread on this about a month ago
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:54 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sileighty_85 View Post
Fat Vs Skinny One uses a voltage signal and the other uses a resistor
there was a thread on this about a month ago
What is the difference between a "voltage signal" and a "resistor"?
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g6civcx View Post
What is the difference between a "voltage signal" and a "resistor"?
you know the thread i'm talking about dont ya?

I think it was this one
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...rconia+ceramic

More Info
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O2_sensor

somthing along the lines of
One sent a signal and the other recived and used a resistior to change the voltage and send it back to the ECU.
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Old 05-13-2008, 09:19 AM   #16
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Depending on whether or not you can find it at the dealer, and depending on how much it costs, getting it from Megan might be cheaper. It's not on their website, but you can call them and ask for it directly. $15 shipped. (626)581-0988

A lot cheaper than $20 plus shipping (probably $10) that Enjuku wants. $30? For a bolt? Come the fuck on, guys.
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Old 05-13-2008, 09:23 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sileighty_85 View Post
you know the thread i'm talking about dont ya?

I think it was this one
http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.p...rconia+ceramic

More Info
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O2_sensor
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sileighty_85 View Post
somthing along the lines of
One sent a signal and the other recived and used a resistior to change the voltage and send it back to the ECU.

You are the ECU and I am the O2 sensor. We're connected by a straw (wire) and we can blow spit wads (electrons) at each other.

When I suck spit wads from you, I am a voltage triggered sensor. Electrons flow from negative (you/ECU) to positive electrical potential (me/sensor). I'm sending a signal to you because I'm sucking your spit wads away.

When I blow spit wads at you, I am a current triggered sensor. Electrons flow from negative (me/sensor) to positive electrical potential (you/ECU). I'm sending you resistance because the more resistance I send, the more spit wads will get blown your way.


It has to do with which way the spit wads are going. The ECU has to know whether it wil get blown or sucked


Now, does skinny and fatty each suck or blow?
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Old 05-13-2008, 09:28 AM   #18
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Lets end this. These are your options:

1. Buy $10 adapter piece at the Nissan dealership.
2. Buy an E5 ECU and a Z32 TT fatty o2 sensor.

Hmm decisions, decisions.
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Old 05-13-2008, 09:29 AM   #19
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Fatty - Blows

The zirconium dioxide, or zirconia, lambda sensor is based on a solid-state electrochemical fuel cell called the Nernst cell. Its two electrodes provide an output voltage corresponding to the quantity of oxygen in the exhaust relative to that in the atmosphere.

Skinny - Sucks and Blows

This type does not generate its own voltage, but changes its electrical resistance in response to the oxygen concentration. The resistance of the titania is a function of the oxygen partial pressure and the temperature.
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Old 05-13-2008, 09:48 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001 View Post
Lets end this. These are your options:

1. Buy $10 adapter piece at the Nissan dealership.
2. Buy an E5 ECU and a Z32 TT fatty o2 sensor.

Hmm decisions, decisions.
The only possible problem I see with the Megan adaptor is that it doesn't put the tip of the sensor as deep into the exhaust flow as a stock elbow or a fatty. I haven't seen the stock adaptor so I don't know.


We're still trying to figure out which is which, for all those inquiring Zilvian minds.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Sileighty_85 View Post
Fatty - Blows

The zirconium dioxide, or zirconia, lambda sensor is based on a solid-state electrochemical fuel cell called the Nernst cell. Its two electrodes provide an output voltage corresponding to the quantity of oxygen in the exhaust relative to that in the atmosphere.
I only see one wire output for the sensor signal. Where does the other electrode go? Also, when you blow electrons at the ECU, this current triggered, not voltage triggered. Remember that electrons go from (-) to (+).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sileighty_85 View Post
Skinny - Sucks and Blows

This type does not generate its own voltage, but changes its electrical resistance in response to the oxygen concentration. The resistance of the titania is a function of the oxygen partial pressure and the temperature.
I don't see how a single sensor can both suck and blow. Can you explain?


How do you know if the skinny is not a Nernst cell?
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Old 05-13-2008, 10:01 AM   #21
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So they arent interchangeable? I'm using the fatty on my redtop. When I first give it some throttle, the A/F goes to 20 then takes a couple seconds to get back down to 14.7

Should I be using the skinny one? I have the 62 ECU.
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Old 05-13-2008, 10:13 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g6civcx View Post

I only see one wire output for the sensor signal. Where does the other electrode go? Also, when you blow electrons at the ECU, this current triggered, not voltage triggered. Remember that electrons go from (-) to (+).
two electrodes provide an output voltage corresponding to the quantity of oxygen in the exhaust relative to that in the atmosphere.

The tip reads the exhaust and the outer body reads the outside atomshere. The two electrodes are the 02 body and the tip.

yes Im very aware that electrons go from (-) to (+) such as lightining travles from the ground to the sky.

Quote:
Originally Posted by g6civcx View Post
I don't see how a single sensor can both suck and blow. Can you explain?
Ok this sucking and blowing thing sounds gay, why dont we just say Send and Receive
control unit feeds the sensor with a small electrical current and measures the resulting voltage across the sensor


Quote:
Originally Posted by g6civcx View Post
How do you know if the skinny is not a Nernst cell?
the skinny is a Titania sensor which has a ceramic element

Zirconia sensor is based off of the Nernst Cell.

So thats how i know the skinny is not a Nernst Cell
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Old 05-13-2008, 10:48 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flip3d View Post
So they arent interchangeable? I'm using the fatty on my redtop. When I first give it some throttle, the A/F goes to 20 then takes a couple seconds to get back down to 14.7

Should I be using the skinny one? I have the 62 ECU.
Get the skinny o2. ('87 Turbo 300zx). And the adapter piece., see if the A/F no longer jumps to 20 and remains around 14.7.
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Old 05-13-2008, 10:51 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001 View Post
Get the skinny o2. ('87 Turbo 300zx). And the adapter piece., see if the A/F no longer jumps to 20 and remains around 14.7.
its cheaper from here $63
http://www.thenismoshop.com/ikorb.ph...roduct_id=1607

Autozone wants like 90-100 bucks
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Old 05-13-2008, 11:57 AM   #25
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Wow, didn't think this thread would go this far.. i'm off to get the adapter piece. seeing that i'll be at WOT most of the time or at a stop, the sensor probably won't be as crucial to my performance as some might think. 11 bucks is a bargain.
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Old 05-13-2008, 01:37 PM   #26
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I also use a fatty sensor on a redtop, with no 'known' problems... but I'd love to see if your A/Fs change, Killer2001.
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:54 AM   #27
KiLLeR2001
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I also use a fatty sensor on a redtop, with no 'known' problems... but I'd love to see if your A/Fs change, Killer2001.
You mean "flip3d". He has the fatty sensor with the redtop.. I've got the skinny o2 sensor for my redtop. No problems here.
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:26 AM   #28
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I swapped in the skinny. I get wayy better milage but my turbo timer wont display the A/F. The signal wire is ecu pin 19, correct?
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Old 01-01-2012, 11:55 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flip3d View Post
I swapped in the skinny. I get wayy better milage but my turbo timer wont display the A/F.
This is to be expected. With the Zirconia sensor, which is more-or-less universal, each possible voltage in the range of 0-1V correlates to a specific AFR (coarse), so the turbo timer is able to translate the voltage signal to an AFR. Since the Titania sensor is so rarely used, I doubt they saw much point in using valuable IC space to provide that option.
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The signal wire is ecu pin 19, correct?
Yes, that is correct, except in the case of certain Type-X (J4) ECUs.

240Atlanta Thread HERE
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Old 01-02-2012, 12:23 AM   #30
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get more cool backfires and shittier gas mileage
i ran no sensor for aobut a year it was fine, when i put it back in i didnt see a difference at all except for gas and backfiring
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