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Old 10-08-2006, 10:46 AM   #1
TurbLu
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Stock compression numbers for a ka24de?

Hi guys,

I know I am suppose to warm up the engine before doing a compression test, but I cant do that right now. So what kind of compression numbers should I expect for a stock Ka24de compression?
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Old 10-08-2006, 12:26 PM   #2
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180ish, anything above is really good
and don't forget to have the throttle body open
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Old 10-08-2006, 12:39 PM   #3
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Standard is 179 psi
Minimum is 151 psi
With max difference of 14psi
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Old 10-08-2006, 03:47 PM   #4
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last time when i did mine cold
it was 200 psi across the board
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Old 10-08-2006, 04:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95zilvia
last time when i did mine cold
it was 200 psi across the board
Possibly something wrong with the compression tester gauge or you just have a shit load of carbon biuldup on your pistons...lol
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Old 10-08-2006, 05:41 PM   #6
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Did mine last week.

190,190,195,195

97 KA24DE 128K

I'm beleiving carbon buildup also.
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Old 10-09-2006, 01:38 AM   #7
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190 or above equals

milled head
carbon buildup
bad tester
or maybe brand new ka with 15k. miles on it...doubt it though!
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Old 10-09-2006, 01:57 AM   #8
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yeah i think ill check it again sometime
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Old 07-20-2011, 03:34 PM   #9
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i did mine today it was
175,175,188,175-_-
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Old 07-20-2011, 04:06 PM   #10
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Cold rebuilt engine about 155, 180 when hot.
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Old 08-27-2011, 05:24 PM   #11
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90 across all 4?>?? but runs really well? what am i doing wrong
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:40 PM   #12
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^^^ Engine warm? Throttle held wide open when testing? Battery fully charged? Crank over at least 3-4 times per cylinder...

...to get a good reading.

- Brian
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:58 PM   #13
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Did mine todau. 195 across the board. I beleive it to be rebuilt so i am assuming milled head.
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Old 12-11-2011, 11:38 PM   #14
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140 cold ... Fawk
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:56 AM   #15
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18x across warm
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:00 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godrifttoday View Post
140 cold ... Fawk
how cold is cold? The reason you do it warm is so that it is tested at a controlled temperature where the rings will be expanded to the right amount.

Your rings will be a different size at 40 degree vs 80 degree weather affecting your compression results, it may be minimal but try again when its warm.
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Old 01-18-2012, 06:22 PM   #17
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Can I borrow someones carbon buildup???

I got 119, 121, 120, 121 on a warm engine.

Cap full of oil gave me 140, 170, 150, 150...... new rings are in order for this bad boy.
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Old 01-18-2012, 06:27 PM   #18
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Ive got 90k miles on my motor and i get 150 on all four cold and 170 warm. For sure never been rebuilt all stock and original from the day it was built
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Old 01-18-2012, 06:53 PM   #19
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Just for you newbs.

Warm engine up.
While engine is running pull the fuel pump fuse. ( Relieves fuel pressure)
Pull all plugs.
Disconnect distributor.
Gas pedal to the floor.
Crank 3-5 times per cylinder.


Did mine on my newest s14. 160k.

210 210 210 210.......Carbon build upppp, runs like a beast though.
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Old 01-19-2012, 11:29 AM   #20
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That's nice! ^ thanks for the info.
Compression I had was 190 across warm.
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:10 AM   #21
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i got 150. 151. 150. 130. how much oil should i pour into the hole to check to see if i need new rings?
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:39 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thinhthan View Post
i got 150. 151. 150. 130. how much oil should i pour into the hole to check to see if i need new rings?
Just a oil cap full. But just looking at that 130, that shit is probably done. I'm sitting at 140-150 on mine and I'm burning oil with the HG probably on its way out.
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Old 02-25-2012, 07:25 AM   #23
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Yup just an oil cap full of oil in each cylinder.
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:01 PM   #24
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a oil cap as in the quart cap or a gallon cap? my car doesnt burn oil or smoke or anything. it drives fine. the engine shakes a lil though when im at like a light. so should i do a rebuild? if so is there a rebuild kit i can buy?
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:06 PM   #25
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quart cap, definitely not the big ass cap.

Make sure you have the car turn over 7 times. remove all of the spark plugs and do one cylinder at a time withe the throttle full open. Make sure you test on a warm engine as well.

Engine shaking can be related to other things as well. Cylinder misfire and bad engine mounts. It all depends.

Im sure you can buy new rings from autozone or something if you want to do a budget rebuild. Check your cylinder walls for scoring (bad) and if you can still see the cross hatching from the honing and no scoring, you should be good with new rings.

Granted its your bottom end that is causing your low compression. Could be the head causing the problem.
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:18 PM   #26
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do all the plugs have to be removed cause all i did was take one spark plug out put in the tester. pushed gas pedal down and cranked it like 3 time each time like 4 secs and i did it one cylinder at a time with all the other plugs in. would that make a differences if the other plugs are still in? i drove the car to the store before i checked it so it was warm. and when i put the oil in the cylinder with 130 it only raised it like prob by 5 psi so now im guessing its my lifters? that has a problem
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:27 PM   #27
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Yea all other plugs should be out. It will make it easier for the test and better result. You unplug the injectors right?

You should do about 7 turns not 3-4. You'll hear the compression stroke when turning the car over.
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:45 PM   #28
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how do i hear the compression stroke? and how do i know its 7 turns? i didnt unplug the injectors i just pulled out the fuel pump fuse and started it until it died than i unplug the distributor
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:01 PM   #29
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The way you do it is the right way. When you start the test you'll be able to hear the compression stroke trust me.
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:04 PM   #30
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and i had a question. sometimes when im doing the test ill hear a pop. is that something i should worry about?
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