Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Removing the oil filter for sure was a good idea, working from the top of the car proved to be very awkward due to very little room to move around and removing the filter bought me enough room to get pliers in there. I wanted to ask, is there a factory fitting on the oil pressure port? Or would my sensor* thread directly on there?

FYI, I did get an NPT to BSPT adapter* which threaded onto my sensor.

The reason why Im asking is bc I had to thread the BSPT adapter onto another little fitting that was already on the block, which then screwed into the engine block. I tried to screw the BSPT fitting into the block itself but I was getting a lot of resistance and didnt want to strip any threads.

Just to be clearer about the sequence,
sensor -> NPT to BSPT adapter -> fitting -> engine block

I think the sensor threads directly into the oil filter block.
Here's the best pics I could find when my engine was apart, if that helps.

[S-Nation S13]

Just wondering .. have any of you guys had experience with converting your SR to delete the ignition chip? And use smart coils from a VQ? I have heard LS coils / R8 coils .. but not so much on VQ.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DJTTon]

I suppose so long as everything is tight and the gauge is reading that itll be fine. Whenever the engine gets pulled ill most likely have a closer look. Who knows, maybe the threads are fcked

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

Just wondering .. have any of you guys had experience with converting your SR to delete the ignition chip? And use smart coils from a VQ? I have heard LS coils / R8 coils .. but not so much on VQ.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I deleted mine did run S15 coils. Actually had some ignitor chip delete modules created to make it easier. I took it a step further and wired in a capacitor like the stock s15/z33 ignition circuit has.

It's a pretty strait forward upgrade. And the S15 & VQ coil pin out is the same, I have a write up somewhere.

[S-Nation S13]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Yes, I deleted mine did run S15 coils. Actually had some ignitor chip delete modules created to make it easier. I took it a step further and wired in a capacitor like the stock s15/z33 ignition circuit has.

It's a pretty strait forward upgrade. And the S15 & VQ coil pin out is the same, I have a write up somewhere.

I seen some online vids, I’m just curious on how much Hp/Boost the VQ coils can handle. Wouldn’t mind supplying that write up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

I seen some online vids, I’m just curious on how much Hp/Boost the VQ coils can handle.

There are people running 700+hp vq's on stock coilpacks. You shouldn't have any spark blowout issues with them if the plugs are gapped properly.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by S-Nation S13

I seen some online vids, I’m just curious on how much Hp/Boost the VQ coils can handle. Wouldn’t mind supplying that write up?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think any modern era coil-on-plug will provide all the spark you'll need, especially compared to the old s13/s14 style ones.

It's not really a write up, but post #22 in this thread has pictures and wiring info: https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...2&share_type=t

[jumpman2334]

Originally Posted by jumpman2334

has anyone had experience with KTS arms? I searched and all I found are 10+ year old threads that talked about kts/silk road coilovers. I am after a RUCA for my altezza and don't want to spend 800 bones for s9.

well I went ahead and ordered them and they look sweet for what I paid, the heim is nice and tight and it looks like they made the arm with very low cars in mind (a big selling point for me). going to install in a month or so when I have everything else. just in case anyone finds this searching down the road.

[simmode1]

Small stupid question... But first watch this video:


Okay now hear me out... EJ20 Z32.

Did I make anyone vomit? lol

SR Z32's are popping up more and more. 400lbs weight reduction over the VG30 right there. FWIH, the EJ20 is lighter than the SR and from the look of things last time I checked, these engines are cheaper than SRs too (which have been on the rise). I've seen complete WRX engine for under $900 without the transmission, which is fine because the VG trans should be stronger anyways (if it could actually work). Should be better weight distribution too.

Complete pie in the sky idea but was curious if I'm the only person interested in it.

[jumpman2334]

So, what is your question? People have swapped EJ20s in plenty of chassis. the biggest hurdle ive seen with the swap is width in the bay/shock towers due to it being a pancake powerplant.


the big upside about these power plants (other than weight) is lower COG. although keep in mind, every powerplant has their own Achilles heel. in stock form, the EJ20 has a turbo hanging over a cylinder that can put increased wear on it(I believe cylinder #3), and the intake manifold is facing the firewall.


lets also not forget to mention open deck, im not sure if all are, but I definitely know some are open deck block. currently working on one with my roommate and have learned a bunch about these little motors over the last year or so. they are sooo small when you get all of the auxiliary crap off of it and just down to the bare block/head

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by simmode1

Small stupid question... But first watch this video:


Okay now hear me out... EJ20 Z32.

Did I make anyone vomit? lol

SR Z32's are popping up more and more. 400lbs weight reduction over the VG30 right there. FWIH, the EJ20 is lighter than the SR and from the look of things last time I checked, these engines are cheaper than SRs too (which have been on the rise). I've seen complete WRX engine for under $900 without the transmission, which is fine because the VG trans should be stronger anyways (if it could actually work). Should be better weight distribution too.

Complete pie in the sky idea but was curious if I'm the only person interested in it.

The VG barely fits in the engine bay as it is. You think you can stuff a wider engine in there?

[simmode1]

Originally Posted by jumpman2334

So, what is your question? People have swapped EJ20s in plenty of chassis. the biggest hurdle ive seen with the swap is width in the bay/shock towers due to it being a pancake powerplant.


the big upside about these power plants (other than weight) is lower COG. although keep in mind, every powerplant has their own Achilles heel. in stock form, the EJ20 has a turbo hanging over a cylinder that can put increased wear on it(I believe cylinder #3), and the intake manifold is facing the firewall.


lets also not forget to mention open deck, im not sure if all are, but I definitely know some are open deck block. currently working on one with my roommate and have learned a bunch about these little motors over the last year or so. they are sooo small when you get all of the auxiliary crap off of it and just down to the bare block/head

No specific questions really. Just looking for reasons why this might be a worse idea than an SRZ32, which is actually pretty cool.

Originally Posted by S14DB

The VG barely fits in the engine bay as it is. You think you can stuff a wider engine in there?

Damn, the EJ is WIDER than the VG?!? Holy shit. I'm thinking no way it can be wider than a VH45, but I guess it might be... Let me go look for dimensions...

Edit: Shit. the VH is 29 inches wide. The EJ is 32 inches wide. Tight fit city. Sounds like a no go.

Did that dinky little MR2 Spyder really have more bay space than a Z32?!? hmmm...

[jumpman2334]

as stated above, the biggest hurdle is the width. its not necessarily a 'bad' idea if you can get it to fit. although im sure a lot of people would be dismissive of it as its outside the norm. ive also discovered a lot of people are somewhat dismissive or ignorant when it comes to subarus in general (certain Subaru owners don't help themselves in this situation).


also, you cant really compare a mr2 bay to a z32. mr2 is RR layout, where as the z32 is a FR type layout. the blocks aren't even facing the same way. apples to oranges.

[simmode1]

You are right. Maybe I'll just toy around with the idea of an EJ20 SW20 instead.
I wish the video had a shot of the engine in that MR2 Spyder's bay. If he had to cut out the firewall between the engine bay and the trunk, then I'm not interested.

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by simmode1

You are right. Maybe I'll just toy around with the idea of an EJ20 SW20 instead.
I wish the video had a shot of the engine in that MR2 Spyder's bay. If he had to cut out the firewall between the engine bay and the trunk, then I'm not interested.

Yeah, the trunk is gone. The whole car is caged and framed.

[DJTTon]

Is water from the outside supposed to leak through the door windows and into the inside of the door?

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Is water from the outside supposed to leak through the door windows and into the inside of the door?

You don't drive a race car in the rain...

[nisileighty]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gUn9CywHLd8

I saw this video on Instagram, then found it on YouTube. Can anyone explain what the hell is happening?

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by S14DB

You don't drive a race car in the rain...

I'm not sure what you're getting at... I'm investigating water leaks for a daily driven car. I have my door cards off and with the windows closed, water seeps into the inside of the door from the outside. Since its like that for both sides, I'm looking for clarification if that's how it's supposed to be.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

[I'm Redline]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

Is water from the outside supposed to leak through the door windows and into the inside of the door?

Aw no way you asked that brah! You KNOW better! Does water do that in a new car? Not even!
You probably need a new seal, door aligned, or window aligned. Had my passenger window misaligned for a bit, drove through one of those gas stop no touch car washes, and my buddy got a shower when teh water sprayed through the top seal. I didn't know whether to laugh becuase he got a bit soaked, or cry because my seat got wet
😅😅😅😅💀

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by I'm Redline

Aw no way you asked that brah! You KNOW better! Does water do that in a new car? Not even!
You probably need a new seal, door aligned, or window aligned. Had my passenger window misaligned for a bit, drove through one of those gas stop no touch car washes, and my buddy got a shower when teh water sprayed through the top seal. I didn't know whether to laugh becuase he got a bit soaked, or cry because my seat got wet
😅😅😅😅💀

Thanks for the quick response, I'll get aligning them first. Then I'll try to scope out a seal.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

I'm not sure what you're getting at... I'm investigating water leaks for a daily driven car. I have my door cards off and with the windows closed, water seeps into the inside of the door from the outside. Since its like that for both sides, I'm looking for clarification if that's how it's supposed to be.

Sent from my SPH-L720T using Tapatalk

Water can run down the window and get inside the door around the belt molding. Make sure the drains along the bottom are clear. Other than sound deadening, the plastic around the inside of the door is there to keep moisture out of the interior.

If water is coming in along the top of the window, then you'll need to check the rubber seals or adjust windows.

[DJTTon]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

Water can run down the window and get inside the door around the belt molding. Make sure the drains along the bottom are clear. Other than sound deadening, the plastic around the inside of the door is there to keep moisture out of the interior.

If water is coming in along the top of the window, then you'll need to check the rubber seals or adjust windows.

The water is essentially running down the window from the outside and once it hits the stretch of trim along the bottom of the window leaks through into the door. I have my door card removed and the plastic film torn off, so I can see whats going on.

Is that plastic trim Im talking about called the belt moulding?

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by DJTTon

The water is essentially running down the window from the outside and once it hits the stretch of trim along the bottom of the window leaks through into the door. I have my door card removed and the plastic film torn off, so I can see whats going on.

Is that plastic trim Im talking about called the belt moulding?

The trim along the bottom of the window is the belt molding. What you're describing is normal. A new molding might hug the glass a little better, but always going to have some water getting in there.

[JrDarknes]

Didn't know where else to ask this and just wanted you guys opinion. Ive always loved the R33 wheels but unfotunately they only made them as 17's and I really only like to run 17/18 on my car.

However I saw this purple car on instagram with M-Parallels on his car. Do you guys think the R33 wheels up front and the M-Parallels on the back would match up well or no? The Bmw wheels would need to be re-drilled to 5x114.3 as they come 5x120.

The M-Parallels dont really concave like the R33.

[jumpman2334]

I would venture to say that with the two different wheels being on the same car and so close to each other, it may look okay at a quick glance or possibly rolling. but I can guarantee you if you are nit picky about the details like some are, you will see the differences in the wheels and that is the first thing you will always see when you look at your car in that hypothetical state (such as the concavity issue you mentioned). it would drive me up the wall.


I do wish that r33 wheels did come in 18x9 as well. :/

[blindside73]

Originally Posted by blindside73

Yes those are the codes. Any insight to the CEL NOT illuminating?

Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk

Fix the CEL. I had an intake leak at the EGR and intake manifold. Replaced the gasket and so far so good. Still working on getting it through the SRT drive cycle.

Still needed to address the CEL illumination issue.

[jumpman2334]

Originally Posted by simmode1

You are right. Maybe I'll just toy around with the idea of an EJ20 SW20 instead.

please make this happen and make a build thread

[S14DB]

I would rather do a 1mz swap.

[kenndyla938]

Hi I have a 1990 240sx s13 should I have power to both sides on all the injectors when the key is off?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk