New flca to hit the market soon

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by kewilso3

Yeah I know about the inward/backward tilt, just making sure you did as well . Important to get that angle right. Probably good that you didn't design in too much length adjustment for people to get into trouble with too much camber.

Any info on the drop knuckle? modding stock knuckles or starting from scratch?

yes to much track change and you cant stand you coilovers up anymore. im at full track width with 3.75-4 degrees of camber

as far as the knuckle from scratch. it will be a full sheet metal fabricated part (not to be confused with plate style like the drift works ones)

i find that in the drifting world steering angle is much like suspension travel in the offroad world. its mostly a big pissing contest.

they mess up all the geometry trying to get more travel. give me half the travel and let me set the car geometry up and you get a faster car through the desert.

give me 45 degrees and set it up right through out the turning radius you have a much better drift car then the guy with 1000 degrees of angle.

that being said i plan on trying to match some to the competions angle in the High 50 degrees and improve on driveablity on the inbetween stuff.

if i cant i will remove a bit of angle to get better drivability.

I hope you can see my logic here. thats basicly how im going to go about it.

the ideas are still just on paper i havent started anything in CAD yet.

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by CleanAndLegit

FYI these two cannot be used in fd

i just finished reading the rule book again just to be sure my part is full legal

the other TDP/ WISEFAB style ones are not because the relocate the the strut.

8.3.2.2. Original suspension design type must remain: Double wishbone, MacPherson
strut etc. Suspension relocation brackets that move suspension points or pivots regardless if they are bolt in to the chassis will not be allowed.

[cbcm2435]

Originally Posted by N8 of S-Empire

i would like to ask you to tell me were the TDP FLCA is superior to mine

not the whole kit

just the FLCA

billet aluminum= lighter and stronger than a bunch of steel pieces welded together
CNC machined= precise

pretty much sounds superior

[S14DB]

Originally Posted by N8 of S-Empire

i am not trying to advertise at ALL

if you guys feel i am please remove this post. i mean no disrespect and am trying to follow the rules. not much of a forums guy

I just want to see what you guys think so i can make sure im on the right track. i will be starting on a RLCA prototype and sway bar in the next few weeks. if you guys like the design elements in this arm i would like to continue the trend on the back and trough out the other products i build.

When you do go into production and/or offer them for sale we will require you to have an advertiser account.

Any more photos of it installed? Can't see much from that top down shot.

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by N8 of S-Empire

i could raise the cost of the arm $70 more and put pinch bungs in. but i thought i should keep costs down as little as possible. plus a single jam nut with a drop of red lock tight will do just fine. works for me on our class 5 car and we finished 2 place in class in the baja 1000 this past november jam nuts still tight.

will it work. yes
is it what i want. no

pinch bungs eliminate the use of jam nuts completly and are probably the most secure way of clamping down on rod ends but...... they are EXPENSIVE

oh and i refuse to go overseas for stuff because i believe in this country and the people that live in it and dont want to send any money overseas if i can help it. plus i can have much better control on my quality

Understood

Originally Posted by N8 of S-Empire

I just want to see what you guys think so i can make sure im on the right track. i will be starting on a RLCA prototype and sway bar in the next few weeks. if you guys like the design elements in this arm i would like to continue the trend on the back and trough out the other products i build.

You make them like this and you will have a down payment from me right now.

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by cbcm2435

billet aluminum= lighter and stronger than a bunch of steel pieces welded together
CNC machined= precise

pretty much sounds superior

that billet aluminum part is more then likley heavier then my part
i dont want to say for sure (anyone have a weight on that one?)
and mine is chomolly so im running really thin material.

again im lighter than stock!!!! thats pretty damn light. AND i have plans for even lighter i actually over built the thing

I have no feedback on theres being stronger than mine but i would be willing to put mine up to stress test in CAD if they will
and i dont think I would be suprised by the results

you could slide right into the side of a wall and I would very confident in saying that would be the last thing I would think would break.

there is a reason you dont see trophy trucks with billet lowers.... they cant make them as strong as sheet metal fabricated parts.

i thought about goin billet but new i could make a lighter stronger part with sheet metal.

cnc is VERY accurate but mine is welded in a jig so theres no movement when welded. and I dont think i would be able to tell the differance. CNC deffinatly looks bad ass.

I hope this helps. I dont really want to give away exactlly how I designed the part as there are some secrets to its light weightness and strength.

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by Beejis60

Understood



You make them like this and you will have a down payment from me right now.

I here ya on that one it works but i want to do a stronger part then that and somthing that looks cooler

that is really light though. gunna be hard to beat thats for sure.

looks like they got the cup angle right and they look like some great tig welds

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by S14DB

When you do go into production and/or offer them for sale we will require you to have an advertiser account.

Any more photos of it installed? Can't see much from that top down shot.

I understand, didnt even know that they existed when i posted this in the very first place.

and here is two more pictures for you guys.

[Bink Industries]

finally found the picture

[cbcm2435]

Originally Posted by N8 of S-Empire

that billet aluminum part is more then likley heavier then my part
i dont want to say for sure (anyone have a weight on that one?)
and mine is chomolly so im running really thin material.

again im lighter than stock!!!! thats pretty damn light. AND i have plans for even lighter i actually over built the thing

I have no feedback on theres being stronger than mine but i would be willing to put mine up to stress test in CAD if they will
and i dont think I would be suprised by the results

you could slide right into the side of a wall and I would very confident in saying that would be the last thing I would think would break.

there is a reason you dont see trophy trucks with billet lowers.... they cant make them as strong as sheet metal fabricated parts.

i thought about goin billet but new i could make a lighter stronger part with sheet metal.

cnc is VERY accurate but mine is welded in a jig so theres no movement when welded. and I dont think i would be able to tell the differance. CNC deffinatly looks bad ass.

I hope this helps. I dont really want to give away exactlly how I designed the part as there are some secrets to its light weightness and strength.

did you heat treat the chrome molly to get rid of the heat stress from welding?

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by cbcm2435

did you heat treat the chrome molly to get rid of the heat stress from welding?

no need on the thickness material and filler rod I chose. If I go thinner then yes absolutely i would.

[cbcm2435]

ok, got ya

[cbcm2435]

the only thing i could see wrong would be the possibility of it being too strong. if i were to crash my car i would rather bend a control arm than damage a subframe or tweak the chassis, i think that is why most companies stick with the tubular design

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by cbcm2435

the only thing i could see wrong would be the possibility of it being too strong. if i were to crash my car i would rather bend a control arm than damage a subframe or tweak the chassis, i think that is why most companies stick with the tubular design

glad you mentioned that......................

and that is exactly why I used aluminum rod ends

when you crash the arm will be fine.......your car will be fine.... you just replace some rod ends that you broke and your back in business (and what ever else broke of coarse)

dont confuss these rod ends as weak they are bigger than any other arm but the are the intentional weak point so you dont trash your car.

these are the little things that you have to pay attention to that alot of others seem to skip.

[Nismocoupe13]

This is a really interesting design you have. I also feel as if you are onto something here. By chance would you happen to have any videos with the control arm on?

[Chris28]

Originally Posted by N8 of S-Empire

note the shims on the tension rod side!

i have already bolted this to the car adjusted from stock to 15 degrees of caster.
i wouldnt build something unless i could beat out the competion.

My bad, didn't see the shims there. Looks good!

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by Nismocoupe13

This is a really interesting design you have. I also feel as if you are onto something here. By chance would you happen to have any videos with the control arm on?

I wish i did. I couldnt get ahold of any go pros before i left for the track. I might be able to get a short clip just runnin up and down the street at the shop a do a few donuts. we have some pot holes that can eat people alive.

This will be being tested on a seasoned drivers Formula drift car along with my front and rear sway bar (hopefully sooner then later) and possibly being debuted in april on the formula drift circuit.

we have found alot of short comings with competitions products and mine have been found superior to them.

[Nismocoupe13]

Thanks for the response. Would you happen to have a website or anything to keep tabs on this?

[indytrucks]

And what class did you run in the baja 1000?

[Duker]

Id like to see these produced for the Z32 chassis.

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by Nismocoupe13

Thanks for the response. Would you happen to have a website or anything to keep tabs on this?

im still building my company so not yet.

i have purchased everything just not launched it. taking product pics as of current and finishing up the logo

i will post as soon as i have something up online untill then this is the spot to look.

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by indytrucks

And what class did you run in the baja 1000?

Kellogg Motorsports Class 5 buggy theres tons of video online. great car, great team

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by Duker

Id like to see these produced for the Z32 chassis.

My focus is 240 right now but i will be moving to gen coupe and Z chassis soon after so keep your eyes pealed

[DallasTXjdm]

Originally Posted by N8 of S-Empire

My focus is 240 right now but i will be moving to gen coupe and Z chassis soon after so keep your eyes pealed

Sounds like you have a plan going on here, just keep the momentum going!

What would assist in positive commentary and interest, are the parts installed on a car, in action, tons of pics and video and demonstrating the benefits of the upgrade. I wish you luck with this endeavor, keep it up!

[redsx13]

Lets see, 900$ accomplishes nothing, I'll pass. That thing looks just beefy enough that I'll have fun bending my front sub frame rather than an easily replaced arm. My modified stock arms will clear just about as much angle as one would ever need.

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by Chris28

Not with your design.



As you extend the "tension rod" heim to adjust caster, you change the distance between the subframe and tension rod bracket. Since this distance is fixed, all you're doing is putting pressure on the subrame and tension rod bracket. In my MSPaint picture, the green line is the "correct" distance between the two points. As you extend the rod end along the orange arrow, you change the physical distance between the two points. The purple line is the new distance, and when you rotate the LCA around the subframe rod end to "adjust" caster, the distance is incorrect and you're stressing the subframe and tension rod bracket.

The tension rod needs to pivot on the LCA or the angle at which it mounts to the tension rod bracket needs to be adjustable, like the TDP kit.

You were having so much fun in ms paint you probably forgot to notice that the adjustable caster arms on your 240 pose the same problem.

Hahahaha see I'm on no ones side.

Congrats on the new product, it looks sick, just a little expensive. May want to outsource those ball joints to china lol

[Beejis60]

Originally Posted by redsx13

s sick, just a little expensive. May want to outsource those ball joints to china lol

If the OP has a few extra shanks lying around, I'll gladly buy two

[kewilso3]

Originally Posted by redsx13

You were having so much fun in ms paint you probably forgot to notice that the adjustable caster arms on your 240 pose the same problem.

stock style tension rods pivot at the LCA

[redsx13]

Originally Posted by kewilso3

stock style tension rods pivot at the LCA

Ahhh..no. They don't


Unless your calling the bolted section a pivot point. In which case you should probably tighten those bolts, because that sounds dangerous

[Bink Industries]

Originally Posted by redsx13

Lets see, 900$ accomplishes nothing, I'll pass. That thing looks just beefy enough that I'll have fun bending my front sub frame rather than an easily replaced arm. My modified stock arms will clear just about as much angle as one would ever need.

I had mentioned earlier in this post that i designed in an intentional weak point by using aluminum rod ends so that you dont wreck the car AND you dont wreck the arm.

I will also be offering a discount on a replacment arm if you find a way to break one as long as you send in the broken one for inspection so i can hope to improve on the design.

If your happy with the amount of angle from your modded stock FLCA then great and you can get alot of angle with that setup and go have some great fun BUT..... This arm is for people relentlessly want to clear the most angle possible and are trying to have that extra edge over there competition, or just get that bit more sideways at the track or were ever else