Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads) - Page 612 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

Dustxking · 06-05-2015, 09:44 AM

Coolant resivor tank sitting next to the wiper motor. That looks like a great choice for my setup (tubbed front end). Anyone make one? Most companies I have found just do the big cylinder style ones. Any info would be great.

LI NY 240sx · 06-05-2015, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dustxking

Coolant resivor tank sitting next to the wiper motor. That looks like a great choice for my setup (tubbed front end). Anyone make one? Most companies I have found just do the big cylinder style ones. Any info would be great.

I was looking at the Perrin universal coolant reservoir, or the Chase Bays. They are both the cylinder type, though. I didn't come across any others in my search.

Dustxking · 06-06-2015, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LI NY 240sx

I was looking at the Perrin universal coolant reservoir, or the Chase Bays. They are both the cylinder type, though. I didn't come across any others in my search.

Same exact thing, all I keep finding are the cylinder type. I was thinking I might just have to take some measurements and see if there is a factory option from another car.

I'm Redline · 06-07-2015, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dustxking

Same exact thing, all I keep finding are the cylinder type. I was thinking I might just have to take some measurements and see if there is a factory option from another car.

smdh... say it with me boys,"SUUUUU MIIIIIT RACING" (Summit Racing)

http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...rder=Ascending

JBB · 06-09-2015, 06:50 PM

Wrapping up my sr swap; wired in the AEM uego and truboost as well as electric fans to the acc wire for the radio.

Fans are running to 2 relays with inline fuses and their own grounds.

I turn the key to accessories and the fans turn on, but no power to the gauges. I ran out of time until next weekend -- the only difference between fans and gauges is that the gauges are grounded with the radio harness ground. That will be my first thing to check, could there be any other possibilities? Thanks!

acslater9 · 06-09-2015, 08:23 PM

My buddy and I were out cruising today, when he told me why my bumper was wobbling at high speeds. I tell him to drive it and he was right.

I converted my kouki to a full jdm front end swap. The swap was easy I used a jdm kouki bumper retainer, I did not use the foam but that shouldn't cause the bumper to be wobbling on the bottom should it?

I'm confused because is there suppose to be another retainer that bolts the bottom of the bumper? Not completely sure.

shawn1331 · 06-09-2015, 09:10 PM

stupid question, what OEM front bumpers or aero packages came on s13 silvias? I know of the standard regular one and the aero bumper, but I'm not super crazy about the aero bumper. Well at least not enough to spend $600-$1200 on it. And the regular one isn't quite aggresive enough.

Do they have a 3rd? or an oem lip for it?

671!S13dragon · 06-09-2015, 10:24 PM

Need Help Before throwing parts at my 93 s13 with stock KA24de, I had hard starting problems, found cylinder 4 injector not firing. Replaced with another used injector, now all injectors are firing and not leaking pass rail. Car is now flooding all cylinders with fuel, so much fuel that its getting into my oil and car doesnt run onless injector wire connectors are disconnected or fuel pump fuse out. Anyone have thie problem?

VNG704 · 06-10-2015, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by acslater9

My buddy and I were out cruising today, when he told me why my bumper was wobbling at high speeds. I tell him to drive it and he was right.

I converted my kouki to a full jdm front end swap. The swap was easy I used a jdm kouki bumper retainer, I did not use the foam but that shouldn't cause the bumper to be wobbling on the bottom should it?

I'm confused because is there suppose to be another retainer that bolts the bottom of the bumper? Not completely sure.

So it wobbles only at the bottom? what the...? No, there is no retainer at the bottom. Is it a factory bumper? The oe bumper isn't that flexible to wobble only at the bottom. I did not have the bumper support on my '97 at all and it didn't wobble, anywhere.

I'm Redline · 06-10-2015, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JBB

Wrapping up my sr swap; wired in the AEM uego and truboost as well as electric fans to the acc wire for the radio.

Fans are running to 2 relays with inline fuses and their own grounds.

I turn the key to accessories and the fans turn on, but no power to the gauges. I ran out of time until next weekend -- the only difference between fans and gauges is that the gauges are grounded with the radio harness ground. That will be my first thing to check, could there be any other possibilities? Thanks!

Try running your fan wire not at the Accessory, but at Ignition HOT, inside the fuse box under the hood. Your gauges should all be wired through the cluster main power that goes hot when acc and ign are powered.
Your gauges should be wired and grounded with cluster, not stereo. Your fans should be wired with ignition hot so that they power up upon starting the car, run when temps hit 'center' on the gauge during idle, then run until total heat drops 10* when shut off(about two to three minutes).

If you are using an Enjuku/Wire Specialties Fan Controller that is:

Orange: Not used
Black SMALL: Battery ground
Blue: to both fans( + )
Black from fans: Frame Ground ( - )
Yellow: Ignition HOT(Fuse box)
Red: Battery Acc terminal(small section that is on the side of the clamp)

acslater9 · 06-10-2015, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VNG704

So it wobbles only at the bottom? what the...? No, there is no retainer at the bottom. Is it a factory bumper? The oe bumper isn't that flexible to wobble only at the bottom. I did not have the bumper support on my '97 at all and it didn't wobble, anywhere.

Yeah only on the bottom. It is oe bumper. But it only wobbles at high speeds 70-80 mph. What about those holes on the bottom of the bumper? Is that suppose to be attached to something?

TonyToniTuna · 06-10-2015, 01:53 PM

I have a prosport water temp gauge on my SR. Weird problem is...if I hit the lights or hit the brakes or even turn my radio up...the needle will go up and then back down when these things go back off.
Sometimes drastically and sometimes only a little bit? Did some voltage tests at battery (miata battery) to see if there was a voltage drop with everything on and there wasn't any issue.
I noticed my ground for the water temp harness is at the dipstick at the water neck? could that be an issue?

Any idea what could be the problem? Water temp and boost gauge are tapped into radio harness. (Aftermarket radio).

***dorkidori_s13*** · 06-10-2015, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TonyToniTuna

I have a prosport water temp gauge on my SR. Weird problem is...if I hit the lights or hit the brakes or even turn my radio up...the needle will go up and then back down when these things go back off.
Sometimes drastically and sometimes only a little bit? Did some voltage tests at battery (miata battery) to see if there was a voltage drop with everything on and there wasn't any issue.
I noticed my ground for the water temp harness is at the dipstick at the water neck? could that be an issue?

Any idea what could be the problem? Water temp and boost gauge are tapped into radio harness. (Aftermarket radio).

you need to ground the water temp sensor to the chassis, not the motor.

im surprised prosport isnt providing a digital sensor instead of analogue sensor that has to be chassis grounded instead of grounding itself via the gauge.

TonyToniTuna · 06-10-2015, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

you need to ground the water temp sensor to the chassis, not the motor.

im surprised prosport isnt providing a digital sensor instead of analogue sensor that has to be chassis grounded instead of grounding itself via the gauge.

Yeah I had a good buddy of mine wire it up for me and we both noticed "oh maybe we should move that ground coming off the sensor harness at the water neck from the water neck to actual chassis and MAYBE that is the issue

" Initially he put it there cause the ground wire was not long enough and figured it would be good enough.

I'm gonna go ahead and extend that ground to chassis this weekend and hopefully fixes the needle bouncing issue.

[240sx] · 06-10-2015, 11:28 PM

Question for anyone who has delt with the S14 Digital climate control.

With the A/C system charged, but the sensors not working (sun load/interior or exterior temp sensors.etc) Can the Air con still work by NOT using the "Auto" function?
I'm looking to get my a/c charged but don't know if the (any) shop will bother as it is not stock.

***Background story***
Two previous owners ago someone attempted the DCC converion on my S14, tho the a/c system is complete, it does not work. The dcc unit does come on & control the blower motor as I had used the heater that way, but when I trouble shooted the sensors for the A/C (via dcc conversion link) it appears ALL sensors read errors. If I can't use the A/C as described above, I'll have to source an usdm unit and try to undo someone elses mess.

Anyone know?

Slicerwolf · 06-11-2015, 07:00 PM

can anyone id these injectors? ImageUploadedByTapatalk1434070807.446927.jpg

Slicerwolf · 06-11-2015, 07:38 PM

Where does this go? I have a feeling it wasn't connected to anything ImageUploadedByTapatalk1434073028.074262.jpg here is the other end which I know where it come from ImageUploadedByTapatalk1434073074.785392.jpg

zfortune · 06-12-2015, 03:34 PM

I installed tein h-tech springs about 6 months ago and the rear passenger side looks like it's at stock height in person. I tried to redo the rear passenger shock/spring to see if I missed anything but nothing changed when I put it all back together. Could really torn up bushings in rear subframe cause this? If so, what is a good replacement for the rear subframe bushings?
first pic rear driver, 2nd pic rear pass.

jyjchoi · 06-13-2015, 06:38 PM

Any1 know if q45 coilpacks work on rb25det neo motors

ultimateirving · 06-17-2015, 09:20 PM

Need to know if this is one of those "ain't broke don't fix it" situations. Have engine out of car and trams about to go back on. Oem sr20det long block, the rear main seal is fine not leaky. Maybe 50k miles on motor. Should I replace it or leave be.

kashira kureijii · 06-17-2015, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

Need to know if this is one of those "ain't broke don't fix it" situations. Have engine out of car and trams about to go back on. Oem sr20det long block, the rear main seal is fine not leaky. Maybe 50k miles on motor. Should I replace it or leave be.

full oem gasket kit for the sr isn't that expensive i think its like 100 something bucks on enjuku or ebay, and it comes with an oem head gasket too.
Current prices may have changed though.

thats kinda up to you though. Replacing is usually safer

Sills · 06-17-2015, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ultimateirving

Need to know if this is one of those "ain't broke don't fix it" situations. Have engine out of car and trams about to go back on. Oem sr20det long block, the rear main seal is fine not leaky. Maybe 50k miles on motor. Should I replace it or leave be.

Depends on your situation as far as if you can afford the seal and downtime. I had 90,000kms on mine with the stock seal and no leaks when my clutch went. Personall id change it if you could just because its a real pita to get the trans off again in the future.

Im swapping an Rb into my S14 right now and first thing I did when I had the engine was spilt the trans while it was out and replaced all the seals and the clutch. Engine is in now and I feel I wont regret the decision.

ultimateirving · 06-17-2015, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sills

Depends on your situation as far as if you can afford the seal and downtime. I had 90,000kms on mine with the stock seal and no leaks when my clutch went. Personall id change it if you could just because its a real pita to get the trans off again in the future.

Im swapping an Rb into my S14 right now and first thing I did when I had the engine was spilt the trans while it was out and replaced all the seals and the clutch. Engine is in now and I feel I wont regret the decision.

Yea I think I'm going to replace I was just seeing if someone would give me reason not to. And I need a grip of other gaskets too so the kit might help

shawn1331 · 06-18-2015, 12:11 AM

What are you guys paying average to have an sr rebuilt to oem spec? my motor isn't too far out, I'm having it machined and sleeved and using oem pistons and rings. crank is being machine and i have nice cams to go in. also have a deck plate.

Would $700-$1000 be unrealistic? basically trying to decide between rebuilding the sr to oem spec using oem parts and having it actually last at 320whp or scrap the plan and drop in an rb25.

ultimateirving · 06-18-2015, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shawn1331

What are you guys paying average to have an sr rebuilt to oem spec? my motor isn't too far out, I'm having it machined and sleeved and using oem pistons and rings. crank is being machine and i have nice cams to go in. also have a deck plate.

Would $700-$1000 be unrealistic? basically trying to decide between rebuilding the sr to oem spec using oem parts and having it actually last at 320whp or scrap the plan and drop in an rb25.

Doesn't seem too bad although is sleeving necessary?
320 is no problem for stock internals

Sills · 06-18-2015, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shawn1331

What are you guys paying average to have an sr rebuilt to oem spec? my motor isn't too far out, I'm having it machined and sleeved and using oem pistons and rings. crank is being machine and i have nice cams to go in. also have a deck plate.

Would $700-$1000 be unrealistic? basically trying to decide between rebuilding the sr to oem spec using oem parts and having it actually last at 320whp or scrap the plan and drop in an rb25.

One of my buddies just had his Sr20 rebuilt with forged internals. I know he dropped ~10,000 into it to do so. There arent many places to get engine work like that done around here though so that price may have been far steeper than where you are. However I personally just blew my Sr20 and dropped in a 500hp Rb20det with forged internals and Blitz tuned @14psi. Altogether that costed me under 4,000 to get it in and everything. I know many here are opposed to but I happen to like and have no complaints with my Rb swap. Dropping it in through the top on an S14 Kouki is a nightmare though...

Slicerwolf · 06-18-2015, 10:47 PM

I just got new injectors. What do I need to amend on my AEM EMS to adjust for them?

ShakotanGazelle · 06-20-2015, 01:32 PM

when my key is in the off position and even when its not in i can turn everything on just as if the key was in the on position, could this be caused by a faulty ignition switch or am i chasing some sort of wiring gremlin?

Car is a virgin 89 base model coupe, auto trans.

Also, could i use a 5 speed ignition switch, or even an S14 one? whats different about them? thanks

I'm Redline · 06-21-2015, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShakotanGazelle

when my key is in the off position and even when its not in i can turn everything on just as if the key was in the on position, could this be caused by a faulty ignition switch or am i chasing some sort of wiring gremlin?

Car is a virgin 89 base model coupe, auto trans.

Also, could i use a 5 speed ignition switch, or even an S14 one? whats different about them? thanks

95% certain you need to buy a new ignition switch. You may consider the entire set of doors, trunk, and ignition and be done with it. 5% one of the ignition wires is shorting in the stalk. Switch is easy to check by isolating and simple troubleshooting

big_tuna · 06-21-2015, 12:44 PM

Here's a stupid question! I did a 5-lug swap on the rear of my 240 this weekend, also replaced the rotors and pads. When I first applied the brake, they locked up and wouldn't release. Now they release when I apply the brakes and lock when I release the pedal! What is going on here? The calipers and brake lines are stock and I didn't remove them when i did the 5 lug swap. I'm guessing its something stupid i'm just not seeing, any ideas?

06-17-2015, 09:20 PM	#18350
ultimateirving Zilvia FREAK! Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: arizona Age: 36 Posts: 1,521 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Need to know if this is one of those "ain't broke don't fix it" situations. Have engine out of car and trams about to go back on. Oem sr20det long block, the rear main seal is fine not leaky. Maybe 50k miles on motor. Should I replace it or leave be. __________________ Z32 with lq4 swap Desert Street Scene \|\| Dssevents.com

06-05-2015, 09:44 AM	#18331
Dustxking Zilvia Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: 360 Age: 35 Posts: 709 Trader Rating: (4) Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Coolant resivor tank sitting next to the wiper motor. That looks like a great choice for my setup (tubbed front end). Anyone make one? Most companies I have found just do the big cylinder style ones. Any info would be great.

06-09-2015, 06:50 PM	#18335
JBB Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Irvine, CA Age: 36 Posts: 490 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Wrapping up my sr swap; wired in the AEM uego and truboost as well as electric fans to the acc wire for the radio. Fans are running to 2 relays with inline fuses and their own grounds. I turn the key to accessories and the fans turn on, but no power to the gauges. I ran out of time until next weekend -- the only difference between fans and gauges is that the gauges are grounded with the radio harness ground. That will be my first thing to check, could there be any other possibilities? Thanks!

06-09-2015, 08:23 PM	#18336
acslater9 Zilvia Addict Join Date: May 2013 Location: Florida Age: 30 Posts: 702 Trader Rating: (5) Feedback Score: 5 reviews	My buddy and I were out cruising today, when he told me why my bumper was wobbling at high speeds. I tell him to drive it and he was right. I converted my kouki to a full jdm front end swap. The swap was easy I used a jdm kouki bumper retainer, I did not use the foam but that shouldn't cause the bumper to be wobbling on the bottom should it? I'm confused because is there suppose to be another retainer that bolts the bottom of the bumper? Not completely sure.

06-09-2015, 09:10 PM	#18337
shawn1331 Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2013 Location: Ontario Age: 31 Posts: 149 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	stupid question, what OEM front bumpers or aero packages came on s13 silvias? I know of the standard regular one and the aero bumper, but I'm not super crazy about the aero bumper. Well at least not enough to spend $600-$1200 on it. And the regular one isn't quite aggresive enough. Do they have a 3rd? or an oem lip for it?

06-09-2015, 10:24 PM	#18338
671!S13dragon Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: torrance california Posts: 7 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Need Help Before throwing parts at my 93 s13 with stock KA24de, I had hard starting problems, found cylinder 4 injector not firing. Replaced with another used injector, now all injectors are firing and not leaking pass rail. Car is now flooding all cylinders with fuel, so much fuel that its getting into my oil and car doesnt run onless injector wire connectors are disconnected or fuel pump fuse out. Anyone have thie problem?

06-10-2015, 01:53 PM	#18342
TonyToniTuna Leaky Injector Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: NC Posts: 103 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	I have a prosport water temp gauge on my SR. Weird problem is...if I hit the lights or hit the brakes or even turn my radio up...the needle will go up and then back down when these things go back off. Sometimes drastically and sometimes only a little bit? Did some voltage tests at battery (miata battery) to see if there was a voltage drop with everything on and there wasn't any issue. I noticed my ground for the water temp harness is at the dipstick at the water neck? could that be an issue? Any idea what could be the problem? Water temp and boost gauge are tapped into radio harness. (Aftermarket radio).

06-10-2015, 11:28 PM	#18345
[240sx] Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Highdesert Posts: 849 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Question for anyone who has delt with the S14 Digital climate control. With the A/C system charged, but the sensors not working (sun load/interior or exterior temp sensors.etc) Can the Air con still work by NOT using the "Auto" function? I'm looking to get my a/c charged but don't know if the (any) shop will bother as it is not stock. *Background story* Two previous owners ago someone attempted the DCC converion on my S14, tho the a/c system is complete, it does not work. The dcc unit does come on & control the blower motor as I had used the heater that way, but when I trouble shooted the sensors for the A/C (via dcc conversion link) it appears ALL sensors read errors. If I can't use the A/C as described above, I'll have to source an usdm unit and try to undo someone elses mess. Anyone know?

06-11-2015, 07:00 PM	#18346
Slicerwolf Leaky Injector Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Soflo Age: 27 Posts: 100 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	can anyone id these injectors? ImageUploadedByTapatalk1434070807.446927.jpg

06-11-2015, 07:38 PM	#18347
Slicerwolf Leaky Injector Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Soflo Age: 27 Posts: 100 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Where does this go? I have a feeling it wasn't connected to anything ImageUploadedByTapatalk1434073028.074262.jpg here is the other end which I know where it come from ImageUploadedByTapatalk1434073074.785392.jpg

06-12-2015, 03:34 PM	#18348
zfortune Leaky Injector Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Merced, CA Age: 33 Posts: 120 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I installed tein h-tech springs about 6 months ago and the rear passenger side looks like it's at stock height in person. I tried to redo the rear passenger shock/spring to see if I missed anything but nothing changed when I put it all back together. Could really torn up bushings in rear subframe cause this? If so, what is a good replacement for the rear subframe bushings? first pic rear driver, 2nd pic rear pass.

06-13-2015, 06:38 PM	#18349
jyjchoi Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: BANCOUVER Posts: 6 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Any1 know if q45 coilpacks work on rb25det neo motors

06-18-2015, 12:11 AM	#18354
shawn1331 Leaky Injector Join Date: May 2013 Location: Ontario Age: 31 Posts: 149 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	What are you guys paying average to have an sr rebuilt to oem spec? my motor isn't too far out, I'm having it machined and sleeved and using oem pistons and rings. crank is being machine and i have nice cams to go in. also have a deck plate. Would $700-$1000 be unrealistic? basically trying to decide between rebuilding the sr to oem spec using oem parts and having it actually last at 320whp or scrap the plan and drop in an rb25.

06-18-2015, 10:47 PM	#18357
Slicerwolf Leaky Injector Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Soflo Age: 27 Posts: 100 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I just got new injectors. What do I need to amend on my AEM EMS to adjust for them?

06-20-2015, 01:32 PM	#18358
ShakotanGazelle Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 514 Trader Rating: (2) Feedback Score: 2 reviews	when my key is in the off position and even when its not in i can turn everything on just as if the key was in the on position, could this be caused by a faulty ignition switch or am i chasing some sort of wiring gremlin? Car is a virgin 89 base model coupe, auto trans. Also, could i use a 5 speed ignition switch, or even an S14 one? whats different about them? thanks

06-21-2015, 12:44 PM	#18360
big_tuna Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Canada Posts: 10 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Here's a stupid question! I did a 5-lug swap on the rear of my 240 this weekend, also replaced the rotors and pads. When I first applied the brake, they locked up and wouldn't release. Now they release when I apply the brakes and lock when I release the pedal! What is going on here? The calipers and brake lines are stock and I didn't remove them when i did the 5 lug swap. I'm guessing its something stupid i'm just not seeing, any ideas?