Autozone Axels??? - Page 2 - Zilvia.net Forums | Nissan 240SX (Silvia) and Z (Fairlady) Car Forum

hellaslows13 · 01-23-2015, 01:04 PM

No issues with the axles clicking?

Tom N · 01-23-2015, 01:12 PM

Wheel hop and drivetrain shock will bust axels quicker than simply the tq you are making.
My car makes 450tq and would breaks axels on radials. When on a bias ply tire and preloading the drivetrain before launching it has broke zero axels.

JSimpson · 01-23-2015, 02:10 PM

there is no "magic" to axles. if you keep them greased up and sealed you will be fine. You can rebuild your own axles... odds are if it isn't dry and clunking the tripod is still fine. GET NEW BOOTS, get GOOD grease, clean everything in a parts cleaner or with brake clean, grease the tripods but DO NOT pack them. Re-install the new boots, clamp them down good, and you are good to go... chase the threads on the outside while you are at it and hit the inner with some sanding agent and rustoleum black paint, done.

Most racecars take A LOT worse abuse than drift cars due to jumping curbs and grip, and the axles last a lot longer than people would think, however they are greased after every weekend. The grease will push itself out of ripped boots and will ruin the axle... take care of your stuff and it will take care of you.

Sforteen · 01-23-2015, 07:16 PM

ive got R32 GTR axles in my car and i havent broken 1 yet, im making around 650whp

Sileighty_85 · 01-28-2015, 04:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tacobellman_2007

Old thread but I just wanted to say thank you for this; I didn't know if I should go with O'Reilly/Autozone axles or just look somewhere else. The spider assembly on my driver side is shot because of my boot tearing (I'd say a few months ago?) and that shit has been clunking for about a month now like there's no tomorrow.

My buddy gave me his driver side axle, but he was running with a torn boot on it as well and has no idea how long it's been like that. He hasn't had any clunking problems, but I feel like if I did replace his boot and ran his axle on mine, that thing would clunk after a couple months. From looking online it sounded like simply replacing the axle was way easier than taking it apart to clean the spider assembly and everything else that needed cleaning and then putting it all back together in hopes of not screwing anything up.

I'm wondering after 5+ years of purchasing, how have they held up, Sileighty_85? Probably gonna go to O'Reilly Auto and order a driver side and passenger side axle for my car right now...!

Glad to help. Axles are still holdin up strong. Before I put it in storage I hit a few drift Events and they have survived thus far.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sforteen

ive got R32 GTR axles in my car and i havent broken 1 yet, im making around 650whp

Are you sure they are GT-R axles? GT-R axles are 5 bolts and the hub spline is bigger. so those wouldnt fit S-Chassis Hubs

Sforteen · 01-28-2015, 06:37 AM

GTR axles are 6 bolt like a q45 or 300zx twin turbo, no large spline axles are 5 bolt. Yes I have the larger hubs installed in the car, the axles came out of a r32 gtr rear subframe i ordered.

Sileighty_85 · 01-28-2015, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sforteen

GTR axles are 6 bolt like a q45 or 300zx twin turbo, no large spline axles are 5 bolt. Yes I have the larger hubs installed in the car, the axles came out of a r32 gtr rear subframe i ordered.

Fat fingered ment 6 bolt.

gripROYAL · 01-28-2015, 07:45 AM

Hey guys, wanted to chime in as I just recently did a Autozone-Axle swap on my S13. If you're familiar with our red car it's running 18x12 with 305/30/18 Nitto NT01 on the rear and then we swap down to a 18x10.5 with a 255/45/18 (or whatever is around this size and cheaper) Kenda/Nankang/Federal for the majority of our drift-day session. We're running a 350whp SR on a Z33 Transmission (Maverick Motorsport kit).

I blew the stock axles after finally changing to z33 after blowing a couple SR transmissions. Went to autozone for the convenience/price as time doesn't really permit junkyard-hunting. Everything looked good and nice, I also noticed the i different boots as noted above. Swapped them on and ran one event, the car rarely drives on the street, and they held up fine no problem or noises. Parked the car and decided to drive it down the street and after a few clutch kicks I started getting this LOUD knocking noise (sounds just like a horrible motor knock) from the pass. rear. It is throttle and speed based, only making noise under a load (not coasting, clutch in, etc). I have since driven the car on the street for a couple 'cruises' with some buddies and the knocking noise stays the same. We have adjusted all the rear suspension and eliminated that as the cause to pin-point the axles as the issue.

Note that I haven't tried adding grease to the autozone axles, I do believe this could be done to eliminate the noise and last longer as a buddy did recommend adding grease before originally installing.

Now, it's the most annoying sound to cruise with, horrible. Axles are working fine but I would assume at my next event after a few heavy clutch dumps they will go again just like the oem ones. SO I have purchased a set of oem used Z33 axles and the new Maverick Motorsport axle-conversion plates to give these a whirl. I know the guys at Get Nuts Lab have been running converted z33 axles for quite some time with much praise, so hopefully this is the right way to go for anyone upgrading power.

I am yet to finish the install and most likely won't remember to update this response, but hopefully it works out well and if someone is curious please PM me so I remember to let you know.

Thanks! Just wanted to share, good luck with your experiments/cars guys!

-Scott

Sforteen · 01-28-2015, 05:59 PM

I dont understand why anyone would try and abuse a stock axle or even worse a shitty china one over and over. Just upgrade to Q45 style ones, its not that much money and its much much stronger.

TheRealSy90 · 02-23-2015, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gripROYAL

I have purchased a set of oem used Z33 axles and the new Maverick Motorsport axle-conversion plates to give these a whirl. I know the guys at Get Nuts Lab have been running converted z33 axles for quite some time with much praise, so hopefully this is the right way to go for anyone upgrading power.

I am yet to finish the install and most likely won't remember to update this response, but hopefully it works out well and if someone is curious please PM me so I remember to let you know.

Thanks! Just wanted to share, good luck with your experiments/cars guys!

-Scott

I just tried to install the maverick z33 axle adapters and used/good z33 axles last weekend, and was left with a bad taste in my mouth. I have pbm subframe risers, very low ride height with 0 camber, and the differential is raised up higher in the subframe about 1 inch. The driver side z33 axle was too long as after installing it and driving the car, the inner cv pushed through the inside and came apart leaving me stranded. Also, the passenger axle seems too short because after installing and setting the car down, the stub shaft pulled out of the differential about 1/2". And yes the "long" axle was installed on the passenger side, and short on the driver side.

With Oem axles the driver side has never had a problem, but the passenger side has always been an Autozone unit, and the inner cv cup breaks apart when shifting from first to second gear driving hard. This is with a custom made 20mm axle spacer.

gripROYAL · 02-23-2015, 03:46 PM

Hmm, that's crazy dude. Sorry to hear you were stranded. I finished my install and noticed the driver side was a bit tighter, I had to adjust out my rlca to allow more but once I did that no problems. I also am running the PBM risers and oem rear spindles, oem rear diff with kaaz. I'm running about -2* camber in the rear though.

TheRealSy90 · 02-24-2015, 03:45 PM

So you're okay with running a different track width on one side of the car than the other side? That just really doesn't seem like a good thing to do. I've got pbm risers, oem spindles, osgiken 2-way and 0 camber. If i adjusted the driver side rlca out wider, matching the width on the passenger side would make that axle too short :/

Quote:

Originally Posted by gripROYAL

Hmm, that's crazy dude. Sorry to hear you were stranded. I finished my install and noticed the driver side was a bit tighter, I had to adjust out my rlca to allow more but once I did that no problems. I also am running the PBM risers and oem rear spindles, oem rear diff with kaaz. I'm running about -2* camber in the rear though.

JSimpson · 02-24-2015, 04:28 PM

I don't understand why people overcomplicate the axle thing so much. Any axle, no matter what, even an R35 GTR axle will clunk and break if the boot gets torn. Its exactly like running a wheel bearing with no grease and sheering off the spindle...

If your boot rips, replace that shit immediately and be done. The boots are $15 and its easy as hell to do. There is no "spider" assembly crap like someone above mentioned... its just a tripod, dip the damn thing in grease, new boot, tighten the clamps, done.

THE ONLY correct boots for our cars are the Beck & Arnley (O'reilly can get them), Megan, or OEM boots. NONE of the dorman ones work. Both the inner and outer boot is identical.

An OEM or Autozone reman is essentially equal for all of our needs, end of story. They are simply rebuilt using oem parts with beck&arnley boots. No magic there. IF you don't have wheel hop or drive like an idiot these axles will take a beating and a half. I ran them with 585whp and 390ftlbs for a long time without any issues. This was a drag car with good bushings and didn't have wheel hop.

Z32 TT/Q45 axle is cheap and easy. Way easier than most realize. If anyone needs Left side 300zx TT axles (the hard one to find) let me know as I have a ton of them oem and brand new in the nissan box.

01-23-2015, 01:04 PM	#31
hellaslows13 Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Bay Area, CA Age: 32 Posts: 914 Trader Rating: (28) Feedback Score: 28 reviews	No issues with the axles clicking? __________________ wavybert / zenki / build thread

01-23-2015, 01:12 PM	#32
Tom N Zilvia Addict Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: SW Florida Posts: 746 Trader Rating: (1) Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Wheel hop and drivetrain shock will bust axels quicker than simply the tq you are making. My car makes 450tq and would breaks axels on radials. When on a bias ply tire and preloading the drivetrain before launching it has broke zero axels. __________________ 98 240sx w/ S15 SR20DET, T2 20g, 11.22 @ 124.98

01-28-2015, 07:45 AM	#38
gripROYAL Zilvia Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: USA Posts: 214 Trader Rating: (15) Feedback Score: 15 reviews	Hey guys, wanted to chime in as I just recently did a Autozone-Axle swap on my S13. If you're familiar with our red car it's running 18x12 with 305/30/18 Nitto NT01 on the rear and then we swap down to a 18x10.5 with a 255/45/18 (or whatever is around this size and cheaper) Kenda/Nankang/Federal for the majority of our drift-day session. We're running a 350whp SR on a Z33 Transmission (Maverick Motorsport kit). I blew the stock axles after finally changing to z33 after blowing a couple SR transmissions. Went to autozone for the convenience/price as time doesn't really permit junkyard-hunting. Everything looked good and nice, I also noticed the i different boots as noted above. Swapped them on and ran one event, the car rarely drives on the street, and they held up fine no problem or noises. Parked the car and decided to drive it down the street and after a few clutch kicks I started getting this LOUD knocking noise (sounds just like a horrible motor knock) from the pass. rear. It is throttle and speed based, only making noise under a load (not coasting, clutch in, etc). I have since driven the car on the street for a couple 'cruises' with some buddies and the knocking noise stays the same. We have adjusted all the rear suspension and eliminated that as the cause to pin-point the axles as the issue. Note that I haven't tried adding grease to the autozone axles, I do believe this could be done to eliminate the noise and last longer as a buddy did recommend adding grease before originally installing. Now, it's the most annoying sound to cruise with, horrible. Axles are working fine but I would assume at my next event after a few heavy clutch dumps they will go again just like the oem ones. SO I have purchased a set of oem used Z33 axles and the new Maverick Motorsport axle-conversion plates to give these a whirl. I know the guys at Get Nuts Lab have been running converted z33 axles for quite some time with much praise, so hopefully this is the right way to go for anyone upgrading power. I am yet to finish the install and most likely won't remember to update this response, but hopefully it works out well and if someone is curious please PM me so I remember to let you know. Thanks! Just wanted to share, good luck with your experiments/cars guys! -Scott __________________

02-23-2015, 03:46 PM	#41
gripROYAL Zilvia Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: USA Posts: 214 Trader Rating: (15) Feedback Score: 15 reviews	Hmm, that's crazy dude. Sorry to hear you were stranded. I finished my install and noticed the driver side was a bit tighter, I had to adjust out my rlca to allow more but once I did that no problems. I also am running the PBM risers and oem rear spindles, oem rear diff with kaaz. I'm running about -2* camber in the rear though. __________________

01-23-2015, 02:10 PM	#33
JSimpson Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,009 Trader Rating: (15) Feedback Score: 15 reviews	there is no "magic" to axles. if you keep them greased up and sealed you will be fine. You can rebuild your own axles... odds are if it isn't dry and clunking the tripod is still fine. GET NEW BOOTS, get GOOD grease, clean everything in a parts cleaner or with brake clean, grease the tripods but DO NOT pack them. Re-install the new boots, clamp them down good, and you are good to go... chase the threads on the outside while you are at it and hit the inner with some sanding agent and rustoleum black paint, done. Most racecars take A LOT worse abuse than drift cars due to jumping curbs and grip, and the axles last a lot longer than people would think, however they are greased after every weekend. The grease will push itself out of ripped boots and will ruin the axle... take care of your stuff and it will take care of you.

01-23-2015, 07:16 PM	#34
Sforteen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: USA Posts: 333 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	ive got R32 GTR axles in my car and i havent broken 1 yet, im making around 650whp

01-28-2015, 06:37 AM	#36
Sforteen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: USA Posts: 333 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	GTR axles are 6 bolt like a q45 or 300zx twin turbo, no large spline axles are 5 bolt. Yes I have the larger hubs installed in the car, the axles came out of a r32 gtr rear subframe i ordered.

01-28-2015, 05:59 PM	#39
Sforteen Zilvia Junkie Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: USA Posts: 333 Trader Rating: (0) Feedback Score: 0 reviews	I dont understand why anyone would try and abuse a stock axle or even worse a shitty china one over and over. Just upgrade to Q45 style ones, its not that much money and its much much stronger.

02-24-2015, 04:28 PM	#43
JSimpson Banned from the Marketplace Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Indiana Posts: 1,009 Trader Rating: (15) Feedback Score: 15 reviews	I don't understand why people overcomplicate the axle thing so much. Any axle, no matter what, even an R35 GTR axle will clunk and break if the boot gets torn. Its exactly like running a wheel bearing with no grease and sheering off the spindle... If your boot rips, replace that shit immediately and be done. The boots are $15 and its easy as hell to do. There is no "spider" assembly crap like someone above mentioned... its just a tripod, dip the damn thing in grease, new boot, tighten the clamps, done. THE ONLY correct boots for our cars are the Beck & Arnley (O'reilly can get them), Megan, or OEM boots. NONE of the dorman ones work. Both the inner and outer boot is identical. An OEM or Autozone reman is essentially equal for all of our needs, end of story. They are simply rebuilt using oem parts with beck&arnley boots. No magic there. IF you don't have wheel hop or drive like an idiot these axles will take a beating and a half. I ran them with 585whp and 390ftlbs for a long time without any issues. This was a drag car with good bushings and didn't have wheel hop. Z32 TT/Q45 axle is cheap and easy. Way easier than most realize. If anyone needs Left side 300zx TT axles (the hard one to find) let me know as I have a ton of them oem and brand new in the nissan box.