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Old 08-26-2013, 08:39 PM   #31
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Great build and awesome work! I too wish to do this one day!
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:40 PM   #32
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Thanks people! Can't tell by the video but I was freaking out.

Currently waiting on a left brake rotor and will be finishing the brake lines as soon as I can. I've been aiming to have the car mobile by Sept 1st ever since I broke my arm. It looks like it's gonna be really close!

On another note, I've been comparing the fuel level sensor resistance between the cars. The S runs ~80 ohms at empty and the Z runs 123 ohms at empty. A big issue with just swapping the sensor, aside from fit, is that the Z has TWO fuel level sensors in series that make up the 123 ohms... one on each side of the tank. They did this due to the fact that the tank straddles the driveshaft. Fair enough, but the issue is that by running JUST the single S sensor, the Z gauge will show the tank as full CORRECTLY, but the tank should run dry somewhere around the 1/3 mark. Shit.

So I'll see about wiring in the secondary Z sensor (luckily it's range is ~40ohms) to the S fuel level resistor in-tank. I haven't put in the new fuel pump so I haven't taken a good look at it yet, but I'll make sure to post what I find.

I've got a similar setup with the front ABS sensors. I've got to get a set of S ABS rings and possibly sensors too, but it looks like I'll be building a board to mediate signal between what the Z is sending and expecting back in terms of pulses, and the S setup. The S has a tone ring with a sensor running an electromagnetic mechanism. The Z seems to run the opposite by having a segmented magnetic ring on the inside face of the front hubs actuating an iron filament completing the circuit to indicate rotation. It may just be as simple as taking a count of the Z tone ring "teeth", tooth count of the S ring, and making a signal modifier to translate the appropriate signal.

Apparently I'm a glutton for punishment because these kind of issues seem to be what I get into the most. What a loser.
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:02 AM   #33
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That's freaking awesome how you used the parts off the z. Great work so far I'm definitely in for the updates. Keep up the good work
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:09 AM   #34
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could you just not delete the ABS ? and run a standalone negating the ABS signal from the ecu ?
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:23 AM   #35
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could you just not delete the ABS ? and run a standalone negating the ABS signal from the ecu ?
Well the whole idea is that I'd like to enable ABS if I can since I can always disable it via fuses or just uncoupling the ABS manifold harness. Also, my current budget isn't going to like getting a standalone right now...

I know driver assists like traction control and ABS get a bad rap but I would like the option to run the assist or disable it if I choose. Say I bite the bullet and get some Hoosiers for a series but I'm unfamiliar with the track layout (with autocross that's always). If I make three runs and push a little too hard on the fourth and slam the brakes in a moment of panic / n00bness to avoid a person / cone / wall, I've just flatspotted my tires and will have to shave them to even them out, or worse: have to throw them away...

It's definitely a good thing to have the option to run ABS and be able to choose not to.
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Old 08-29-2013, 01:14 PM   #36
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awesome!!!
Trying to hit you back about those pigtails but your PM inbox is full.
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Old 09-03-2013, 06:40 PM   #37
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DriveshaftShop delivered.



Got some open box Kinetix HR cats in from Enjuku. I asked for an Enjuku sticker. They sent a stickerbomb starter kit. Wrapped the cats with DEI Titanium and coated with VHT Flameproof.







Also finished up the brake lines: Lines run to the manifold, additional line run to the rear. Rear T deleted and each side has it's own line now.



I ran into a huge drama when I went to bleed the clutch. Firstly, the HR motors have an internal clutch slave cylinder and a tube that goes into the trans for fluid and bleeding. Well, the bleeder valve head broke off in the CSC tube block. Then the EZ-Out broke off in the bleeder. Fast-forward through an insane amount of profanity at high volume and I'm back in the garage with a replacement CSC tube. Little did I know they are typically replaced with the trans off the block. The hole for the CSC tube is about the same size as a clutch fork hole and we could barely even see WTF was in there.

Eventually we were able to pull the pin holding the old CSC tube with a pair of 10" hemastats holding a locking pin clip and a dentist mirror. We put the pin back in with the hemastats, popped the new CSC tube in, and proceeded to bleed the clutch.

Let it be known for anyone bleeding a VQ trans with a dry CSC, proceed like this:
  1. Pump the clucth pedal several times and then mash it down all the way.
  2. Open the bleeder valve quickly, just enough for air and fluid the come out, and close it back off.
  3. Lift the clutch pedal and WAIT 45 SECONDS for the CSC to go back into position.
  4. Pump the clutch pedal several times, lift it and wait again, pump it again several times and then mash it down all the way.
  5. Purge the bleeder again, close it, lift pedal, wait again...

You see where this is going. The key is the waiting. Trust me, I burned almost two hours cursing and trying different crap. Just so you know, vacuum bleeding did NOTHING for me besides gum up my vac gun with Wilwood 570.

I'm going through the drivetrain and suspension looking for loose bolts and putting in thermal protection on the passenger side frame rail due to the fuel and brake lines running close to the heat. After that I'll loosen the motor mounts and clock the motor about 2 degrees counterclockwise from driver's orientation ( the motor is ever-so-slightly crooked ), tighten them back up, throw the manifolds, cats, Y-Pipe, rear exhaust, fab a middle section from the Y-pipe to the S13 exhaust, throw a seat in that B, go around the block, and immediately put it back in the garage cuz there's still no interior at all.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:13 AM   #38
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Looks great so far. Good work.
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Old 09-04-2013, 12:29 AM   #39
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:12 AM   #40
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Cats...? CATS?!?!?! you're crazy haha.
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:22 AM   #41
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A man after my own heart! You really did it right by getting a totaled shell to start off with, that's my plan as well.

Can't wait to see a finished product!
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Old 09-05-2013, 01:50 PM   #42
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Looks great so far. Good work.
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A man after my own heart! You really did it right by getting a totaled shell to start off with, that's my plan as well.

Can't wait to see a finished product!
Thanks! Yeah, although I was lucky enough to find the NISMO and people literally swarmed to my garage from other states to get to the pile first, I really liked having the shell to pull from and reference. Tips to consider are:
  • Of course you want an intact, undamaged block and trans
  • You get all the wiring
  • Look for a shell that has enough damage to make it unusable for a dismantler or rebuilder. Rollovers are ideal. Rear end and front collisions aren't hard for a rebuilder to put together. Side impact and rollover are very structurally disruptive.

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Cats...? CATS?!?!?! you're crazy haha.
I guess I'm going for a sleeper attitude. I've been talking to a lot of Z owners and they've said test pipes are obnoxiously loud, but I'm taking their advice. Thankfully the cats were super cheap, and Kinetix has a good reputation.
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Old 09-05-2013, 02:05 PM   #43
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Yeah, if you're going to DD the car, the more mufflers the better. VQ's are louuuud.
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Old 09-05-2013, 02:44 PM   #44
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Yeah the one I'm looking at had a huge tree land on the roof
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Old 09-05-2013, 02:50 PM   #45
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Yeah the one I'm looking at had a huge tree land on the roof
Oh that's perfect! Only issue is if everything else is in good condition, others may want it. I nearly bought a 370Z that had minor damage on all four sides, but when I went to look at it, a motor mount had broken and the crossmember cracked the block. Probably from high-centering the car on a curb or something.

Since I bought my car on Copart, I had to bid against other interested parties. Settle on a value that you're happy paying and if bidding goes over that, it'll make you reconsider the overall value you'll pay or you'll learn from it and refine what you're looking for in a donor.
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Old 09-05-2013, 03:13 PM   #46
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Funny you mention Copart, I've always looked at cars on there, and that's where I've been looking for a Z33 at since I decided to do this swap. But none of the local Copart yards have a Z I could get for a good price. Closest one is Tennessee
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Old 09-05-2013, 04:16 PM   #47
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Subscribed. So want a VQHR daily. I'm jelly.
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:23 PM   #48
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Funny you mention Copart, I've always looked at cars on there, and that's where I've been looking for a Z33 at since I decided to do this swap. But none of the local Copart yards have a Z I could get for a good price. Closest one is Tennessee
I had kept my eye on a few Z's in some close yards, but the NISMO popped up literally 30 minutes from my house. I was able to go check it out, start the motor, and look at the block and tranny. I was bidding against someone in Florida, who undoubtedly hadn't seen the car, and won, probably because I knew it was safe to go higher.
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Old 09-05-2013, 05:36 PM   #49
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This has been keeping me motivated lately:

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Old 09-06-2013, 08:55 AM   #50
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Two times the intake, two times the POWAR!
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:13 AM   #51
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I'll just leave this here...

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Old 09-18-2013, 09:01 PM   #52
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Well I'm going to need to reroute the fuel lines, rework the cats, or both. Cluster is throwing a fuel temp sensor CEL since the passenger cat is apparently boiling the fuel. Also it's melting the carpet to the sound deadening.

*sigh* But it's getting there. It's a blast to drive.
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Old 09-19-2013, 12:58 PM   #53
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This is awesome progress! What're your plans for it outside of the VQ?
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Old 09-20-2013, 04:12 AM   #54
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yup depending on the type of driving and time inbetween stops the exhaust can get hot...I've since re wrapped and double wrapped my LTH while coating the bottom of car and tunnel area with high temp paint...

hope that helps
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Old 09-20-2013, 08:12 AM   #55
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This was about the time I went to Wyoming on a downhill trip and broke my radius at the wrist on the third day of eight. Great. Six weeks of not being able to use my left hand.

Determined not to let my injury stop me, I singlehandedly sanded, primed, and painted the engine bay.
LOL hilariously clever. I see what you did. Cudos for your determination.
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:05 AM   #56
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Lots more work ahead people!



Quote:
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This is awesome progress! What're your plans for it outside of the VQ?
Of course, I want to get all the kinks dealt with so that I can flog the car for hours and have it just look up at me, smile, and ask for more... but to make a short list:
  • Finish the interior and get the doors and sunroof wired
  • Build a removable spoiler and diffuser that I can put on for race days
  • Clean up the body with some wider fenders to fit some RPF1s, 17x9.5+18 front - 18x10.5 +15 rear, since I'm already rolled and barely fit G35 Coupe wheels. Maybe a BN Blister, a Rocket Bunny Coupe kit if a rich uncle dies, or something custom.
  • Build the internals in preparation for the next item...
  • Eventually get a standalone ECU, STACK display, useful gauges in the triple dash pod, and figure out if I want to go single turbo, twin turbo, or supercharger.

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yup depending on the type of driving and time inbetween stops the exhaust can get hot...I've since re wrapped and double wrapped my LTH while coating the bottom of car and tunnel area with high temp paint...

hope that helps
Definitely. It tells me I've got to just go crazy with heat shield. I did notice that due to my impatience to drive, I didn't shield the fuel filter at all. I've since wrapped it and the car performs better for longer, with noticeably less torque dropoff.

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LOL hilariously clever. I see what you did. Cudos for your determination.
Thank you, sir! I'm trying not to write boring info-dump posts because who wants to read that?!

Alignment scheduled today, mainly to get my toe corrected, as well as check on the rest of it. Front is toed in badly since I changed steering racks and rod ends. It was so bad that my front NT05s were chirping going over expansion joints on the interstate. I only went about 3 miles and got home and did a rough correction with my limited tools but a lot of damage had already been done to the tires. Oh well, they're almost a year old and that's plenty of use out of a set of 200 treadwear tires.

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Old 09-20-2013, 01:03 PM   #57
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jissan View Post
Of course, I want to get all the kinks dealt with so that I can flog the car for hours and have it just look up at me, smile, and ask for more... but to make a short list:
  • Finish the interior and get the doors and sunroof wired
  • Build a removable spoiler and diffuser that I can put on for race days
  • Clean up the body with some wider fenders to fit some RPF1s, 17x9.5+18 front - 18x10.5 +15 rear, since I'm already rolled and barely fit G35 Coupe wheels. Maybe a BN Blister, a Rocket Bunny Coupe kit if a rich uncle dies, or something custom.
  • Build the internals in preparation for the next item...
  • Eventually get a standalone ECU, STACK display, useful gauges in the triple dash pod, and figure out if I want to go single turbo, twin turbo, or supercharger.
You should be able to fit those wheel specs without running widebody. I'm running 17x10 +12 front and +20 rear on my s14... if I remember correctly the difference between s13 and s14 wheel fitment is minimal. I could be wrong. You can always check here, if you haven't already, to look at wheel specs on specific vehicles. I can't wait to see more progress on this build! I love that you're putting the Z parts to good use.
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Old 09-20-2013, 01:53 PM   #58
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This thing is looking great dude.
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:00 PM   #59
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Alignment was eye-opening.

LCAs front and rear had bad bushings.
Steering rod ends had binding angle at what is definitely a conservative ride height.
RUCAs had fused jam nuts so they couldn't adjust them.
Wheel/tire combo had minimal coilover clearance for camber adjustment, so camber plates are needed.

Shit! LOL!
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Old 09-25-2013, 02:28 AM   #60
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Stack 8130 Tachometer with VQ35

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I used a Stack ST8130 display to get all my temp, pressure, Tach, speedo and fuel signals. It interfaces with its own sensors that i had to add. I tried to mess with as little of the factory VQ wiring as possible.
Hi, I have a '97 240SX with a VQ35HR engine and a Stack 8130 display. The 8130 "Engine Speed" cable is connected to pin #110 on the ECU. The tach reads zero RPM under all conditions. I have not yet installed a "pull-up" resistor.

I would be grateful if you could tell me how you got your Stack tach to function.

Thanks for any info!

Tom
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