V8 240sx FAQ

[blu808]

Well considering he is from northern cali im sure the frame has minimal rust. We dont have rust problems out here for the most part.

[Risu2112]

Originally Posted by blu808

Well considering he is from northern cali im sure the frame has minimal rust. We dont have rust problems out here for the most part.

Yeah I'm rust free, I'll be taking it easy on the frame for now since it's only going up to 400ish HP and using street tires.

Next question: Any reason I shouldn't use a used Q45 rear end for now? Need a budget oriented solution for the rear just for now, I'm not willing to drive around on an open diff. Think the axle on the Q45 can handle the power?

[blu808]

I would just run one of my diffs.

Your axles should be fine if you dont drive like a retard considering this is street use and on street size tires.

[Sir]

Why Q45?
If you're doing it for the axels, stock will hold up the power, just your tires are be going up in smoke.
With that said, Q45 offers VLSD and taller final gear, so its got a very good bang for the buck for T56's double overdrive

[Risu2112]

Originally Posted by Sir

Why Q45?
If you're doing it for the axels, stock will hold up the power, just your tires are be going up in smoke.
With that said, Q45 offers VLSD and taller final gear, so its got a very good bang for the buck for T56's double overdrive

Yeah haha, 255 tires with a 4.08 open diff just isn't going to work, Q45's vlsd 3.538 at least gives me a chance to grab the ground.

[Sir]

but there is always R&P from Frontier circa 05 IIRC.
Thats the plan with my setup

[chitosdr]

I am running stock open diff with my setup right now. I am using 245/40/18 nitto neo gen on the rear, and it really isn't that bad. I was able to lay down a 1.86 60ft with this set up on my stock ls1/t56 s14. I plan on upgrading to the j30 vsld with the 3.90 for a little more use out of 4th gear in the 1/4 mile though...right now I am at the top of 4th at 111-113 trap speed.

[Risu2112]

Yay! another question,

Again with my S13 hatchback LS1 swap, Regarding the exhaust, I will be attempting to certify and legalize the swap for CA smog law, this means I will be starting with the factory headers & cats, after the cats though I'm trying to figure out what my best option will be, Have the pipes "Y" together and exit single muffler with say 3" piping out the driver side? is that going to be enough diameter considering the pipe is coming together? Or should I Have the pipes " Y " together then " Y " back apart to dual exhaust? For smog reasons the pipes need to come together after the cats, they can split up again after that though.

Long story short, does any one have any piping configuration or diameter recommendations? Also how much clearance do I stand to lose if I run a pipe out the passenger side too? If I go dual exhaust it sure will look cool, but will it actually help with the flow at all? Keep in mind, my flow is going to be at least for now seriously restricted by the factory headers..

thanks! >.>

[chitosdr]

Originally Posted by Risu2112

Yay! another question,

Again with my S13 hatchback LS1 swap, Regarding the exhaust, I will be attempting to certify and legalize the swap for CA smog law, this means I will be starting with the factory headers & cats, after the cats though I'm trying to figure out what my best option will be, Have the pipes "Y" together and exit single muffler with say 3" piping out the driver side? is that going to be enough diameter considering the pipe is coming together? Or should I Have the pipes " Y " together then " Y " back apart to dual exhaust? For smog reasons the pipes need to come together after the cats, they can split up again after that though.

Long story short, does any one have any piping configuration or diameter recommendations? Also how much clearance do I stand to lose if I run a pipe out the passenger side too? If I go dual exhaust it sure will look cool, but will it actually help with the flow at all? Keep in mind, my flow is going to be at least for now seriously restricted by the factory headers..

thanks! >.>

I'm still using the factory headers into a single 3" Y-pipe into a single 3" high flow cat and single 3" cat back exhaust. I do want headers eventually, but I am happy with the current power output with this setup. True duals will flow better, but the extra cost for the 15-25 hp is just not worth it to me right now. You could try doing a mild port job on the manifolds, just do a gasket port match. Anyways, good luck with the smog.

[Sir]

can't you do just and xpipe instead????

Since I'm not in cali, and could care less about smog, thats what I'm doing.

[g6civcx]

Originally Posted by Risu2112

Yay! another question,

Again with my S13 hatchback LS1 swap, Regarding the exhaust, I will be attempting to certify and legalize the swap for CA smog law, this means I will be starting with the factory headers & cats, after the cats though I'm trying to figure out what my best option will be, Have the pipes "Y" together and exit single muffler with say 3" piping out the driver side? is that going to be enough diameter considering the pipe is coming together? Or should I Have the pipes " Y " together then " Y " back apart to dual exhaust? For smog reasons the pipes need to come together after the cats, they can split up again after that though.

Long story short, does any one have any piping configuration or diameter recommendations? Also how much clearance do I stand to lose if I run a pipe out the passenger side too? If I go dual exhaust it sure will look cool, but will it actually help with the flow at all? Keep in mind, my flow is going to be at least for now seriously restricted by the factory headers..

thanks! >.>

Research SLP's SS package for the Fbody. They offer options of single exhaust or dual exhaust outlet, and quote a ~10 bhp gain with the dual.

I retained the stock S13 catback exhaust design for simplicity, cost, and availability of parts. If I wanted max power I would do a true exhaust with dual cats. If you want to run a dual muffler setup think carefully about how you're going to route it.

Since you're basing it on a Camaro (right?), I understand you're stuck with the cat design. Can you find another LSx platform that has dual cats? I know Fbodies never did, but perhaps a truck setup?

Maybe it's more hassle than it's worth for a few extra bhp. If you're that pressed then just get it cert then run exhaust cutouts.

[Risu2112]

I might consider X piping 2 3" diameter pipes... I need to get under the car again and do some measurements, I wonder if I can fit them both out the driver side and save some clearance, if not I'm gonna have to go with 2.5's or something and run them out both sides of the car.


Tough call, running them out both sides would be better for acoustics! How about pipe diameter by the way? I'm thinking a single 3" out pipe is not going to be enough, minimum 2x 2.5's. if I have to stick with the single outlet I might have to go crazy with some silly 4 inch pipe or something >.>

[Sir]

I'm going to be modifying my DualN1 and see how it works

[g6civcx]

A member asked me questions about my carbureted GM 350 V8 setup. I'm posting the answer here for all to see:

Q: did you move the firewall back because you had to or to make the tranny fit in the location of the stock tranny hole?

A: We moved the firewall back to seat the motor as low and as far back as possible to provide optimal weight distribution. Right now the motor sits further back than an SR/KA normally would. I also had them flare out the firewall so that the gearbox can be accessed without removing the engine assembly. As far as shifter placement goes, T5 shifters are slightly tilted towards the driver so it's offset about 1 inch over and 2 inches back. We had to move the handbrake to clear the shift knob.

Q: 5 speed right? 6? if i remember correctly i think t5's are 5 speed?

A: I used a Borg-Warner T5 from an Fbody. They're not the strongest gearbox on the planet, but I'm not drag racing, and I can always upgrade to a Richmond T5 any time later.

Q: ok driveshaft! custom or did you get somebody to make a custom one at a shop?

A: Driveshaft Shop did the T5 front and stock rear one-piece steel driveshaft. Make sure you measure driveline angle correctly so it's a straight shot to the diff.

Q: whats the difference between the dry sump oil system and then the wet sump, or something like that, i know theres a couple, but off the top of my head all i know is the dry sump, so what all do you have to do to do that (dry sump system) whats all needed, whats the advantages. etc..

A: This question I'm not going to field as others have better inputs. The best I can say is search.

Q: could i use the stock 240 fuel pump and use a fpr, or do i get a special one?

A: You can use the stock electronic pump, but you need an FPR that will regulate fuel pressure down to about 7 PSI for the carb. I run the GM mechanical pump that's mounted on the engine.

Q: does the headers fit past or around the steering shaft?

A: I have block hugger headers, and was able to clear the steering column, but it's a tight fit. You have to remove the steering shaft to remove the driver side header. This part depends on how good your fabrication is.

[DarkPhoenix]

The SLP kit is only dual out of the muffler. On the F-Bodies it has been proven that you lose power on a true dual setup. Best bet is to do like the F-bodies do. Y-pipe off the headers into either one or two cats, and then into a single outlet pipe. There isn't enough room under the S chassis, in my opinion for a dual. That and nothing is more stealthy than an nice, quiet, single outlet exhaust, and maybe an exhaust cut-out.

[g6civcx]

Originally Posted by DarkPhoenix

The SLP kit is only dual out of the muffler.

This is correct. All 93+ Fbodies came with single cat for cost.

Originally Posted by DarkPhoenix

On the F-Bodies it has been proven that you lose power on a true dual setup. Best bet is to do like the F-bodies do. Y-pipe off the headers into either one or two cats, and then into a single outlet pipe.

It really depends on how you tune the engine, but if you're running a close to stock setup I agree with this.

Originally Posted by DarkPhoenix

There isn't enough room under the S chassis, in my opinion for a dual. That and nothing is more stealthy than an nice, quiet, single outlet exhaust, and maybe an exhaust cut-out.

I also agree with this. This is is how mine is setup and I'm very happy with it, not to mention the ability to run any S13 catback I choose without using custom catbacks.

Good info. +rep for you.

[DarkPhoenix]

Originally Posted by g6civcx

Good info. +rep for you.

Thanks. I cut my gear-head teeth on F-bodies. I have owned just as many Trans Ams and Formulas, as I have owned Z cars (11 Zs and 12 Fbodies in total). I did an LT1 swap in an S30 I picked up about 10 years ago. And just so you know, the only 4th Gen F Bodies that had a single cat were the OBD1 cars. After that, they had a total of 3 cats. 2 in the Y pipe just past the header, and then one after the Y.

[RUTH'LESSDET]

s14 in particular how did you get them to fit????

[dirtdiggler666]

ok guys i got a question

if im going to to use a trans with a cable clutch how can i make this work sense the 240 has a hydro clutch??

[blu808]

Originally Posted by dirtdiggler666

ok guys i got a question

if im going to to use a trans with a cable clutch how can i make this work sense the 240 has a hydro clutch??

Another reason why you shouldn't use a t5.

Its really not that hard though.

Remove your clutch hydro master cyl, and make a cable stop on the fire wall. Then just attach the cable to a lever above the pivot point on the pedal.

Or you can just adapt the t5 to a hydraulic throw out bearing similar to a t56. That would be best but more expensive.

[DarkPhoenix]

Originally Posted by blu808

Another reason why you shouldn't use a t5.

Its really not that hard though.

Remove your clutch hydro master cyl, and make a cable stop on the fire wall. Then just attach the cable to a lever above the pivot point on the pedal.

Or you can just adapt the t5 to a hydraulic throw out bearing similar to a t56. That would be best but more expensive.

Or just get a T5 out of a 3rd gen F-body. They use a hydraulic clutch.

[blu808]

i dont think the bell housing will work with the 302 he is using. If thats what he is using.

[dirtdiggler666]

blu808 you are correct

im going to swap in a 87-93 5.0 engine i know everyone will hate on it but o well.

well any other options like maybe using a hydro trans out of a newer mustang??

thanks so much for the help so far

[blu808]

You should just get the hydraulic throwout bearing conversion for the t5. Infact if you are interested I have a complete 302 with a t5 swap sitting here. I believe it is a 91 or whatever the last year was before they changed to the hypernuematic pistons. I paid $1000.00 for it a year ago. I would let you have it for $600 or so if you are interested.

Luke

[g6civcx]

Originally Posted by DarkPhoenix

Or just get a T5 out of a 3rd gen F-body. They use a hydraulic clutch.

I'm using a T5 from a 305 'maro/'bird.

[93superHICAS]

ok the t56, they use what. hydraulic or the cable type clutch cable?

[DarkPhoenix]

Originally Posted by 93superHICAS

ok the t56, they use what. hydraulic or the cable type clutch cable?

T56 is hydraulic, but came with three different input shafts and bellhousings.

GM Bellhousing and input shaft(The T56 was offered as a transaxle on the C5 and C6 Vettes)

Ford Bellhousing and input shaft from the 03-04 Terminator Cobra

Dodge Bellhousing and input shaft from the Viper.

[racepar1]

HMMMMMMMM....... Vette T-56 transaxle in a 240?????? That would be SICK! BLU808, think it can be done? And I mean realistically possible, not theoretically possible.

[blu808]

yes it can be done but then the 240 would be heavier in the rear. lol

[gsracer]

Originally Posted by DarkPhoenix

There isn't enough room under the S chassis, in my opinion for a dual. .

There is plenty room under the s chassis for dual. I used dual 3 inch under my car and my car is practicly on the floor.