Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[Jacob Butler]

ok so im having this strange issue with my ka24e, theres no spark coming out of my ign coil. i check the voltage coming out of the harness connector. it reads 10.83. i crank the car over. i check it again. it reads 13. basically every time i crank the car the voltage reading changes up or down. One time it read like 60 volts, one time 1.3. battery is 12.45 volts. Anybody ever heard of someone having this issue? any help is greatly appreciated

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Jacob Butler

ok so im having this strange issue with my ka24e, theres no spark coming out of my ign coil. i check the voltage coming out of the harness connector. it reads 10.83. i crank the car over. i check it again. it reads 13. basically every time i crank the car the voltage reading changes up or down. One time it read like 60 volts, one time 1.3. battery is 12.45 volts. Anybody ever heard of someone having this issue? any help is greatly appreciated

You don't have 60v coming out of a harness connector.

You should get a different mulitmeter.

[Jacob Butler]

yeah idk its weird, thanks though, i will try a different multimeter when i get a chance

[lewisfk]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the 62 and e5 ecu are interchangeable for the sr20det blk top engine.

[dorkidori_s13]

to an extent... both ECUs are compatible between SRs, but youll loose your O2 sensor support. i believe 62 ECUs O2 sensors are grounded via engine harness while E5 ECUs are grounded via the ECU itself. also, the redtop 'skinny' O2 sensor reads differently than the blacktop O2 so they cannot be swapped between motors.

[e1_griego]

Redtop sensors are titania sensor. Blacktop are zirconia. Each ecu are programmed differently to read the different type of sensor. The ecus are interchangeable in that the motor will run, but the sensor won't be read correctly.

[jumpman2334]

I have a question, but it is more for informational purposes. ive wondered about it for a while, so I will ask: Cosmis wheels, are they on the "okay" or "cool" list of wheels to buy?


I have zero interest in buying them (too pricey for knockoff Taiwanese cast wheels for my taste). But I am just curious as it seems like a lot of people have them, and they seem to escape all the ridicule that XXR, varrotstein, etc get all the time. Why is this? I thought I remember seeing something about some professional driver/drifter starting this company, is that a reason for the pass? It does seem like the price has come down a little bit on them (looking at enjuku), but I remember them being pretty damn pricey earlier this year (300+ a wheel)


for a 1,000+ bones for a set of 4, why would you not save up and get some cast rays wheels made in japan for a couple hundred more? none of this makes any sense to me.

[Jacob Butler]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

You don't have 60v coming out of a harness connector.

You should get a different mulitmeter.

So the new multimeter I just got hasn't gotten around to reading 60v yet but the voltage still changes Everytime I turn the key off and on. Now the voltage just varies between 8 and 11 volts. Any ideas??

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Jacob Butler

So the new multimeter I just got hasn't gotten around to reading 60v yet but the voltage still changes Everytime I turn the key off and on. Now the voltage just varies between 8 and 11 volts. Any ideas??

Yeah.

Your battery is dead as shit.

[mikeybb1011]

I have a Zenki here, and there's two vacuum lines right above the alternator that doesn't connect to anything (they're just hanging), anyone have any idea where those are supposed to go?

I can put up pictures if needed.

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by mikeybb1011

I have a Zenki here, and there's two vacuum lines right above the alternator that doesn't connect to anything (they're just hanging), anyone have any idea where those are supposed to go?

I can put up pictures if needed.

Well uhh, what do they go to? Do they have vacuum on them, or do they need vacuum on them? That will tell you if they're coming from the manifold, or if they need to go to the manifold, respectively.

In situations like that, follow the wire or hose back to the next place that it's clearly origionally supposed to be secured, then see how big a circle it could have been in, and search that.

[jaysgottaredtop]

They may also be coolant lines for the throttle body, perhaps bypassed by a previous owner. Hard to know without pics.

[Jacob Butler]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Yeah.

Your battery is dead as shit.

its not. car cranks really good battery has 12.45 volts. its just not getting spark

[mechanicalmoron]

Originally Posted by Jacob Butler

its not. car cranks really good battery has 12.45 volts. its just not getting spark

Voltage shouldn't be fluctuating like that, that's at the battery? Or the coil? When cranking, or just sitting?

I've never had any reason to screw with 240 ignition, but you should have a hot wire, a tach, ground, output, trigger (somewhere, something approximating that, anyway)- have you tried jumping to hot/ground, and/or trying to trigger it, to check for voltage drop/etc?

[drfftn]

Guys,

Y'all think a pull would be enough to tuck my tires?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

[mechanicalmoron]

stock ka rebuild - is it worth putting clevite rings and bearings on an enginetech rock auto kit? Is it even a good idea, since they say to use their enginetech rings on those pistons?

Any experience with them? Anything else in that kit that should be a fel-pro, etc? (other than all of it)

[[240sx]]

Originally Posted by drfftn

Guys,
Y'all think a pull would be enough to tuck my tires?

Depends on how good you are...seems doable. (Especially w/ - camber.)

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[Reece]

Dumb ass question are silvia brick and triple projector wiring harnesses the same?

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by Reece

Dumb ass question are silvia brick and triple projector wiring harnesses the same?

that would be a big negative...

[Juucso]

Does anyone have installion pictures of lambo door hinges on S13? I am trying to figure out how to mount them to the door. I think there should be some kind of strengthen plates?

[Tomek_PL]

Hey guys, I'm new to the scene, been lurking and learning, but i just want to confirm that the only real difference in terms of bodies between the s14 zenki and kouki is the front end. If so, then the side skirts and the little rear corner bumper trims should be interchangeable as long as its usdm to usdm or jdm to jdm, do i have this right or not? don't want to start buying stuff that wont fit... i have a 98 kouki if that makes a difference.

thanks in advanced.

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by Tomek_PL

Hey guys, I'm new to the scene, been lurking and learning, but i just want to confirm that the only real difference in terms of bodies between the s14 zenki and kouki is the front end. If so, then the side skirts and the little rear corner bumper trims should be interchangeable as long as its usdm to usdm or jdm to jdm, do i have this right or not? don't want to start buying stuff that wont fit... i have a 98 kouki if that makes a difference.

thanks in advanced.

You are correct.

[Tomek_PL]

awesome! thanks a lot! time to start shopping :P

[5280VertDET]

Anyone know if the CA18 Nismo strut bar is actually higher than the standard S13/14 Nismo strut bar?

My Fuel rail and injectors will not allow my S13/14 one to fit over them, even with drift_freq mounts.

Standard SR:


CA18 Specific:

[dorkidori_s13]

CA18 strut bar was a totally different shape from the SR20 based bars due to the slant of the motor. dont know about the over all height, but i imagine it being slightly higher!



what kind of rail and injectors are you running?!

[Jacob Butler]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Voltage shouldn't be fluctuating like that, that's at the battery? Or the coil? When cranking, or just sitting?

I've never had any reason to screw with 240 ignition, but you should have a hot wire, a tach, ground, output, trigger (somewhere, something approximating that, anyway)- have you tried jumping to hot/ground, and/or trying to trigger it, to check for voltage drop/etc?

Battery voltage is consistent. Voltage at various harness connectors, like fuel injector, dizzy, and coil, they all get 8-11 volts. Car still gets fuel. The car gets a very very small spark out of brand new ign coil, not enough to start. I have also tested the "pulsing" wire in the coil connector that goes from open loop to closed and back to open to fire the coil. That tested good.

[5280VertDET]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

CA18 strut bar was a totally different shape from the SR20 based bars due to the slant of the motor. dont know about the over all height, but i imagine it being slightly higher!

[img][/img]

what kind of rail and injectors are you running?!

Thanks! I wish someone had a side by side before I sell mine and look for a CA18 cusco or nismo...

Running some tall top feed 760's and radium fuel rail. It does have a fitting on to for the FPG line, but even if I remove that it's still tight...

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by 5280VertDET

Thanks! I wish someone had a side by side before I sell mine and look for a CA18 cusco or nismo...

Running some tall top feed 760's and radium fuel rail. It does have a fitting on to for the FPG line, but even if I remove that it's still tight...

i think your best best i to go find a CA based strut bar and test it out... wont run you much. you can always recondition one thats a bit worn too (should help keep it cheap)

[DJTTon]

What are some ebrake options when running G35 front and rear brembos? Would z32 setup still work?

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[Jacob Butler]

Originally Posted by mechanicalmoron

Voltage shouldn't be fluctuating like that, that's at the battery? Or the coil? When cranking, or just sitting?

I've never had any reason to screw with 240 ignition, but you should have a hot wire, a tach, ground, output, trigger (somewhere, something approximating that, anyway)- have you tried jumping to hot/ground, and/or trying to trigger it, to check for voltage drop/etc?

Voltage while cranking is a steady 8 volts. If I turn the key to on, read the voltage, turn key off and back on, I read it again and the voltage will be different every time. It never gets a full 12 either.
Also I took coil off the car and triggered it with 12v and it didn't fire. So I tested the resistance and it was way off. So AutoZone replaced it with another one that was within spec. I haven't hot wired this one because I don't want to risk shorting it. I'm pretty sure the problem is not the coil itself.