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Old 08-02-2009, 01:10 AM   #1
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SR Wont Idle Smoothly, Fouls New Plugs, Heavy Gas Fumes From Exhaust

I've been trying to fix my SR the last couple of days and pretty much give up.

The SR ran completely fine until I hit a bump in the road which hit my intercooler and tore one of the couplers. I replaced the torn coupler and checked for leakage.

Here are the symptons:

1. Engine starts but doesn't idle smoothly.
2. I can rev the engine up to 6000RPM, but it's not smooth and just bogs.
3. I checked intercooler piping and there is no leakage.
4. The old spark plugs looked fouled so I bought new plugs and they got fouled as soon as I used them.
5. It smells like there's gas everywhere when the engine is running.
6. Compression is good at 150psi across all cylinders.
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Old 08-02-2009, 07:44 AM   #2
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Pressurize the system, I think you still have a leak...
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:27 AM   #3
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Could be injector related if a boost leak doesn't pan out.
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Old 08-02-2009, 12:54 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fliprayzin240sx View Post
Pressurize the system, I think you still have a leak...
Rechecked the system from the turbo housing to the air intake. No leakage.

I pressurized the turbo housing itself, but the turbo fan just spins. Is the turbo housing suppose to be sealed when the engine is stopped?
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Old 08-02-2009, 12:55 PM   #5
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Could be injector related if a boost leak doesn't pan out.
What could be wrong with the injector? How do I check if it is the injector?
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Old 08-02-2009, 03:09 PM   #6
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What could be wrong with the injector? How do I check if it is the injector?
Pull the plug on the injectors one by one to see if there is a change in idle. If no change, then thats your bad injector. You can also test the resistance (horseshoe symbol) on the injectors with a multimeter, 11.5 ohms or something close to that is a correct reading.
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Old 08-03-2009, 09:57 PM   #7
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You need to perform a ver simple test and stop getting ahead of yourself
remove the fuel rail from the intake manifold and turn the key into on so you have your fuel pump powered up and providing fuel to the rail.

Then watch the pintle cap area of each injector on the rail and look for any fuel dribbling out or leaking around the edge of the pintle cap area of the injector tip.

I am pretty sure this is your issue, injector leak at the tip of the side feed inj
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Old 08-03-2009, 11:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KiLLeR2001 View Post
Pull the plug on the injectors one by one to see if there is a change in idle. If no change, then thats your bad injector. You can also test the resistance (horseshoe symbol) on the injectors with a multimeter, 11.5 ohms or something close to that is a correct reading.
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve shadows View Post
You need to perform a ver simple test and stop getting ahead of yourself
remove the fuel rail from the intake manifold and turn the key into on so you have your fuel pump powered up and providing fuel to the rail.

Then watch the pintle cap area of each injector on the rail and look for any fuel dribbling out or leaking around the edge of the pintle cap area of the injector tip.

I am pretty sure this is your issue, injector leak at the tip of the side feed inj
Thanks guys. Will try both of these fixes when I get a chance.
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Old 08-03-2009, 11:38 PM   #9
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you guys sure he shouldn't check his ecu for codes first? could be maf, could be knock sensor.
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zbear View Post
Rechecked the system from the turbo housing to the air intake. No leakage.

I pressurized the turbo housing itself, but the turbo fan just spins. Is the turbo housing suppose to be sealed when the engine is stopped?

The only way to really effectively check for all leaks is to use a SMOKE MACHINE....

They have one that is designed just for cars in fact. I have one at my shop it is a life saver

This is one of the things I included in the Diagnostic tune package for people who do not have Standalones...This one thing fixes or FINDS all kinds of tiny leaks that add up to 20-50 hp sometimes on just average run of the mill off the road 240s....

I woudl suggest you check your MAF sensor wiring as well as your maf sealing up to the front of the turbo etc...
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Old 08-06-2009, 07:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve shadows View Post
You need to perform a ver simple test and stop getting ahead of yourself
remove the fuel rail from the intake manifold and turn the key into on so you have your fuel pump powered up and providing fuel to the rail.

Then watch the pintle cap area of each injector on the rail and look for any fuel dribbling out or leaking around the edge of the pintle cap area of the injector tip.

I am pretty sure this is your issue, injector leak at the tip of the side feed inj
Just checked the injectors and they aren't leaking.
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Old 08-06-2009, 07:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Om1kron View Post
you guys sure he shouldn't check his ecu for codes first? could be maf, could be knock sensor.
Haven't checked ECU for codes yet. I don't have a reader. That will probably be my next step if I can't figure this out soon.
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Old 08-06-2009, 07:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve shadows View Post
The only way to really effectively check for all leaks is to use a SMOKE MACHINE....

They have one that is designed just for cars in fact. I have one at my shop it is a life saver

This is one of the things I included in the Diagnostic tune package for people who do not have Standalones...This one thing fixes or FINDS all kinds of tiny leaks that add up to 20-50 hp sometimes on just average run of the mill off the road 240s....

I woudl suggest you check your MAF sensor wiring as well as your maf sealing up to the front of the turbo etc...
I don't have a SMOKE MACHINE, so I just used a ShopVac vacuum. It made the "stuck" sound when sucking on the intercooling piping.

If you were local, I'd take the car to you, but I'm in NorCal.

I'll recheck the intercooler piping a third time since a lot of people are saying it must be a leak in the IC causing the problems.
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Old 08-07-2009, 01:11 AM   #14
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i thought you would read the codes off the ecu like ka ecus by turning the knob and counting the flashes.. i dont know anything about the sr ecu tho so disregard this if there is no led and knob.. if there is pm me and ill tell you how to read it
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Old 08-07-2009, 01:32 AM   #15
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Old 08-07-2009, 01:42 AM   #16
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yea that ^^^
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:43 PM   #17
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Haven't had time to check the ECU error codes yet, but someone told me it could be the MAF sensor since its just shoving fuel into the engine.

How can you tell you have a bad MAF sensor and is it possible to fix it? It might be dirty too since some dust got in past the air filter, so can I use carb cleaner or any other solvent to clean it?
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