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Old 02-21-2010, 09:36 PM   #631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Bobble View Post
What do you guys use to reseal the bead on 3 piece wheels? taking them apart to get refinished..
Use silicon, then when you go to get your tires mounted up, ask the place to spread some bead sealer along the center of the rim, and also ask them to dunk all the tires after mounting them up to ensure the beads did actually sit and seal correctly.

It sucks when you have to return 1 week later, have a tire dismounted and re-seal a 3peice
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Old 02-21-2010, 11:51 PM   #632
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Just want to double check before I buy my new wheels.

Front:
SSR SP-1 Professor, 18x10j -19
Wilwood BBK
Stance GR coilovers
Origin 40mm over fenders

Rear:
SSR SP-1 Professor, 18x11j -7
275/35R18
Z32 brake swap
Stace GR coilovers
Origin 50mm over fenders

Does anyone see any problems with this set-up?
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Old 02-22-2010, 02:13 AM   #633
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^ Looks pretty good, but are the lips going to be correctly staggered or not? those sizes it will roughly have the same lip front and rear if the discs are the same. x11 seems a little weak for 50mm overs, but you have big tire, so it should be good, s13 right?

Q?: Anyone know if bride fg rails sit lower than buddy club rails in a s14? or any rails?
I have buddy club rails and it does not sit as low as I want.
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Old 02-22-2010, 03:41 AM   #634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NINJASPY View Post
^ Looks pretty good, but are the lips going to be correctly staggered or not? those sizes it will roughly have the same lip front and rear if the discs are the same. x11 seems a little weak for 50mm overs, but you have big tire, so it should be good, s13 right?
Yup, S13...shoulda mentioned that before.

Not sure about the stagger of the lips, how would I calculate that?

Do you think I could go to 18x12?

I like more tire, not really into the stretched look so much.

Thanks for the input!
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Old 02-22-2010, 03:43 AM   #635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E Double View Post
are the upper engine and lower tranny harnesses the same between zenki and kouki model S14's?
anybody know what's up? i have ZERO experience with stateside Nissans
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Old 02-22-2010, 04:05 AM   #636
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Just wondering what folks use to clean out their blocks when doing a coolant flush. Seeing as the KA is cast iron rust deposits are fairly common. Just want to know how to get the inside as clean as possible without the whole having to send my block off to get heat tanked.

Any advice?
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Old 02-22-2010, 05:34 AM   #637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamN View Post
Just wondering what folks use to clean out their blocks when doing a coolant flush. Seeing as the KA is cast iron rust deposits are fairly common. Just want to know how to get the inside as clean as possible without the whole having to send my block off to get heat tanked.

Any advice?
I used Prestone's flush kit when I flushed my Durango, got a lot of junk out of it, pretty simple to use...I'd recommend getting a piece of hose to attach to the nozzle so you can control where the drained water goes.
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Old 02-22-2010, 07:43 AM   #638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I LUV MY S13 View Post
yep triple checked..im 99% sure its grounded/wired properly..gets fuel and spark
Hmmm...have you checked the timing? Like actually used a timing light? It's pretty simple and will quickly show you what's up. I know you said the dizzy is aligned, but you'll want to check timing to be sure. It's like ~$35 for a gun and is something that is always nice to have on hand.

Keep posting results.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboSE View Post
Yup, S13...shoulda mentioned that before.

Not sure about the stagger of the lips, how would I calculate that?

Do you think I could go to 18x12?

I like more tire, not really into the stretched look so much.

Thanks for the input!
Try to follow along as this may be confusing when typed out. 1"=25.4mm (round to 25mm). Your wheels are 10j-19 and 11j-7.

For lip size comparison (ignoring offsets right now), you only care about half (outside half) of the wheel width, so we'll consider your wheels 5j-19 and 5.5j-7. The initial lip size difference is .5" wider in the rear.

Now, let's factor in the offset and convert inches to millimeters. The front will have a lip of 5" x 25.4mm = 127mm + 19mm = 146mm or 5.75". The rear will have a lip of 5.5" x 25.4mm = 139.7mm + 7mm = 146.7mm or 5.78". (Remember since we are calculating width of the lip we add a negative offset to the width since it will add to the overall lip)

So, it looks like they will have about the exact same lip sizes. This just calculates the width from the outside edge to the mounting surface of the hub. Different disk types will affect the why these look overall but these measurements will still hold true.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamN View Post
Just wondering what folks use to clean out their blocks when doing a coolant flush. Seeing as the KA is cast iron rust deposits are fairly common. Just want to know how to get the inside as clean as possible without the whole having to send my block off to get heat tanked.

Any advice?
BG makes a pretty good cleaner kit. They have a cleaner and a additive for after. I think you can buy just the cleaner.
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Old 02-22-2010, 08:10 AM   #639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irritatedmax View Post
Try to follow along as this may be confusing when typed out. 1"=25.4mm (round to 25mm). Your wheels are 10j-19 and 11j-7.

For lip size comparison (ignoring offsets right now), you only care about half (outside half) of the wheel width, so we'll consider your wheels 5j-19 and 5.5j-7. The initial lip size difference is .5" wider in the rear.

Now, let's factor in the offset and convert inches to millimeters. The front will have a lip of 5" x 25.4mm = 127mm + 19mm = 146mm or 5.75". The rear will have a lip of 5.5" x 25.4mm = 139.7mm + 7mm = 146.7mm or 5.78". (Remember since we are calculating width of the lip we add a negative offset to the width since it will add to the overall lip)

So, it looks like they will have about the exact same lip sizes. This just calculates the width from the outside edge to the mounting surface of the hub. Different disk types will affect the why these look overall but these measurements will still hold true.
Clear as day, thank you very much!
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:03 AM   #640
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Should my motor build boost, if any of the gaskets around the turbo area are leaking, or torn. I.E. - turbo inlet, exhaust mani, turbo elbow gasket, etc???

I think I have a huge exhaust leak coming from the turbo area, but I build 8lbs. of boost normal.
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:37 AM   #641
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so, the guy im buying my car from says i would need to change my engine mounts and one of my lower control arms. can i get an estimate on how much these would cost me with labor costs. thanks guys. and his clutch pedal squeeks but the car shifts smoothly and everything, we sprayed some wd40, and half of it went away. is there anything else i can do? thanks .
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:41 AM   #642
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so, the guy im buying my car from says i would need to change my engine mounts and one of my lower control arms. can i get an estimate on how much these would cost me with labor costs. thanks guys. and his clutch pedal squeeks but the car shifts smoothly and everything, we sprayed some wd40, and half of it went away. is there anything else i can do? thanks .
Nismo engine/ tranny mounts cost $235.00 from Phase2motortrend, or you can try and find some used for a bit cheaper. Lower control arms probably run you about $50 used.

Labor is going to kill you on the mounts though, I would suggest finding someone local and pay them instead of a shop?
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:50 AM   #643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc240 View Post
Nismo engine/ tranny mounts cost $235.00 from Phase2motortrend, or you can try and find some used for a bit cheaper. Lower control arms probably run you about $50 used.

Labor is going to kill you on the mounts though, I would suggest finding someone local and pay them instead of a shop?
alright man, thanks. im most likely going to take it to the shop and do it my self(with a weebit of help lol), because the shop is my uncles. and labor on control arms, i can do my self right? its just a little hassle getting in there. and any thoughts on the clutch squeak man?
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Old 02-22-2010, 10:49 AM   #644
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you can purchase a set of brand new front lower control arms for 100 bucks. check frsport.
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:21 AM   #645
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97; Kouki; 5 spd.

The 1,2,3 fan choices arnt working on the climate control. The 4th speed works. Any ideas??
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:28 AM   #646
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hi guys ! There's guy selling a low mileage VQ35de 99 maxima engine for dam cheap. My question is... Can a rwd nissan trany can fit to it easely or whit easy modifications... If yes can you guys tel me wich one can fit to it ... and if a fwd VQ engine block can fit to an s-chassi. I know alot about SR's but VQ is totaly new for me.

Scuse me for my english i usuly speak french
Thank you
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:44 AM   #647
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Originally Posted by E Double View Post
anybody know what's up? i have ZERO experience with stateside Nissans
I'll stop by the maintenance section of the local Nissan dealership and find out for you bro. You need thus info for the sr swap?
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Old 02-22-2010, 12:05 PM   #648
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Quick question....i plan on getting a new clutch and i entering some events next month...car is a S13 coupe with a stock Dual cam with a intake and a cat-back and a welded diff...i have a buddy who has a "XTD Stg 3" with pretty much the same setup as me and it grabs pretty good...but i was also looking at the Exedy OEM replacement kits on FRsport and was just curious which one to go with? i know Exedy is a reputable company and i have had em before in previous cars...but i havent really heard any horror stories about the XTD clutches either??? input?
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Old 02-22-2010, 02:20 PM   #649
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Just by exedy. You have no need for a stage 3 clutch.
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Old 02-22-2010, 02:23 PM   #650
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^yea thats exactly the same thing i was thinking also! yea the exedy should be able to handle the clutch kicking.
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Old 02-22-2010, 05:34 PM   #651
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You need thus info for the sr swap?
yessir! i appreciate it
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Old 02-22-2010, 05:42 PM   #652
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I wanna buy a pair of 5 lug wheels for my 4 lug hatch. I'm currently running Desmond XR-V Longchamps 16x8(4 lug) in the back and 15x6(4 lug) z stockies in front. What I want to buy are a pair of 5zigen fn01r-c 17x10(5 lug) and stick them in the back while using my 16x8's in the front. So basically I'm gonna be 4 and 5 lug at the same time. Was wondering if that's even a good idea and what I would need to convert my rear to 5 lug?
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Old 02-22-2010, 05:58 PM   #653
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its 1 lug, why does it matter? you will be fine.
convert to 5lug? Search. hubs, z32s, adapters or 5lug s14 or ichiba hubs.
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:11 PM   #654
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Can someone help me find part numbers for the Navan roof racks for s13? If anyone has a s13 Navan brochure I think it would be in there unfortunately I don't have one.

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Old 02-22-2010, 10:33 PM   #655
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Should my motor build boost, if any of the gaskets around the turbo area are leaking, or torn. I.E. - turbo inlet, exhaust mani, turbo elbow gasket, etc???

I think I have a huge exhaust leak coming from the turbo area, but I build 8lbs. of boost normal.
anyone?

msglength
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Old 02-22-2010, 10:41 PM   #656
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anyone?

msglength
my turbo was separating from the manifold one time and i was still boosting at normal pressure. it felt kinda sluggish though, so i knew something was up.
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Old 02-22-2010, 10:52 PM   #657
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Hmmm...have you checked the timing? Like actually used a timing light? It's pretty simple and will quickly show you what's up. I know you said the dizzy is aligned, but you'll want to check timing to be sure. It's like ~$35 for a gun and is something that is always nice to have on hand.

Keep posting results.



i just realized that i didnt put the dizzy in any specific order

Ive been researching and couldnt find much on how to properly set the timing with the dizzy..so far what i got is put the motor on TDC(second marking on crank pulley), put the dizzy spindle as "a backwards D", and just install the dizzy and oil pump

anything wrong or missing?
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Old 02-23-2010, 09:09 AM   #658
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Should my motor build boost, if any of the gaskets around the turbo area are leaking, or torn. I.E. - turbo inlet, exhaust mani, turbo elbow gasket, etc???

I think I have a huge exhaust leak coming from the turbo area, but I build 8lbs. of boost normal.
If the leak is after the turbine (turbine to o2 housing, or o2 housing to downpipe), you'll be able to still build boost normally. If the leak is prior to the turbine (exhaust manifold, or turbine to manifold), it will cause you to boost more sluggishly.

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i just realized that i didnt put the dizzy in any specific order

Ive been researching and couldnt find much on how to properly set the timing with the dizzy..so far what i got is put the motor on TDC(second marking on crank pulley), put the dizzy spindle as "a backwards D", and just install the dizzy and oil pump

anything wrong or missing?
Hmmm, I am a bit confused by that. The second mark on the crank pulley is the base timing mark (0* I think). I don't recall if it indicates TDC (it has been over a year since I had to do mine). Here is what I did:

With timing light on the crank pulley and the spark pickup on the number one wire, I checked where it was firing in relation to the timing mark. It was off so I rotated the distributor to bring it back in. It was off more than that so I pulled the distributor rotated it like one tooth in the direction I needed and then checked the timing. Using the timing light, I saw it was closer, so I rotated the distributor and got it to where I wanted. (Repeated this process a few times)

It was a bit confusing at the time, but it started to make sense. Without a timing light, it is going to be quite hard to determine when your engine is getting spark.

I think your other option is to align the timing marks on the timing chain and then reset the distributor. You would still need a timing light to bring it into spec.
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Old 02-23-2010, 12:18 PM   #659
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I have some pbm knuckles and would like to know what caster all the peoples with modded knuckles run?
anyone have anything about this one?? I'm just running stock caster now and would like to know if i can get any benefits from different caster!
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Old 02-23-2010, 12:35 PM   #660
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Originally Posted by NMs14.5kouki View Post
anyone have anything about this one?? I'm just running stock caster now and would like to know if i can get any benefits from different caster!
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/115916...nsion-faq.html

hope this helps, as I did not fully understand the difference. Most people that I have seen get a "drift" alignment stay around the 6.5-7 degree mark.

Pro drivers please chime in to correct me if I am wrong.
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