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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 07-08-2017, 03:16 PM   #1
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S13 KA24DE Won't Start!!

I was driving home and my car randomly wouldn't accelerate and acted like it didn't want to receive fuel when i would push on the pedal. I had to sit at the light and rev the engine to keep the car on.

Once home i popped the hood and noticed the spark plug wire on cylinder 3 was laying on the header heat shield, it was NOT melted but i was concerned that this maybe caused the problem.

I checked that spark plug from cylinder 3 and it was super black from running rich. It smelled like gas and the plugs were changed 1 week from this post.

I can hear the fuel pump cutting on but i had someone suggest to me that it may be the problem, either that or the crankshaft position sensor but i'm not sure. I need the experts help!

! Let me know what you think it may be!

Following have been replaced within 1yr:
Spark Plugs
Plug Wires
Fuel Pump
Distributor Cap
Ignition Coil
Coolant Temp sensor
Battery/Battery Ground/Cables
MAF has been cleaned with MAF cleaner
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Old 07-09-2017, 05:25 AM   #2
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Bump, anyone?
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Old 07-09-2017, 09:24 PM   #3
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I had something very similar happen to my daily a few weeks ago, it was a massive vacuum leak at the EGR valve on the back side of the intake manifold
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Old 07-10-2017, 04:03 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by slow40sx View Post
I had something very similar happen to my daily a few weeks ago, it was a massive vacuum leak at the EGR valve on the back side of the intake manifold
Hmm. I need to check that out, i've had a few people tell me that i need to clean the IACV out too to help with overall performance but that SOB seems like it's better to just take the intake mani off.

I've also read about the "ghetto" spray way by spraying carb cleaner into that hose on the IACV but im not sure which to do.

I'll check the EGR valve when im off Wedensday.
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:28 PM   #5
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You can clean it either way or if you wanna get rid of it entirely you can just set your idle with your throttle cable and delete the IACV, I've seen a lot of people do that
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Old 07-11-2017, 07:39 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by slow40sx View Post
You can clean it either way or if you wanna get rid of it entirely you can just set your idle with your throttle cable and delete the IACV, I've seen a lot of people do that
I may do that. i really just want my daily to run well. i also am trying to wire up an aftermarket cd player and everytime i plug the fuse into the outlet it blows out. im thinking theres a hot wire somewhere. the engine bay wire wise is hella clean. its gotta be near the cd wires. whatchu think? would this make it run weird?
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:33 AM   #7
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Quote:
cd player

just kidding, I'd be interested to see how well using the throttle cable to adjust idle instead of the IACV works.. that thing is a pita

as far as blowing the fuses, take a meter and chase wires.. a lot of trial and error It shouldn't make it run weird, I had stupid issues with my radio wiring (I was 17 and had no idea what I was doing) and it never effected startup

check spark, clean throttle body, take off fuel in line and make sure when you turn the key it pumps fuel
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Old 07-12-2017, 06:37 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by hatch4life View Post

just kidding, I'd be interested to see how well using the throttle cable to adjust idle instead of the IACV works.. that thing is a pita

as far as blowing the fuses, take a meter and chase wires.. a lot of trial and error It shouldn't make it run weird, I had stupid issues with my radio wiring (I was 17 and had no idea what I was doing) and it never effected startup

check spark, clean throttle body, take off fuel in line and make sure when you turn the key it pumps fuel
I'd LOL so hard if the cd player fixed it hahaha.

I looked at the back of the EGR valve, and there is a hose going from the firewall down behind the intake mani. It is ripped in like 2-3 places and they used 3 hose clamps to clamp the center down and keep it tight. I'm taking it off right now and will get a new hose for it.

This all started while i was driving home, and the thing that threw me off was that plug wire getting hot and burning that spark plug out that i had changed just a week prior. It has always seemed to run a little rich though. But doesn't burn oil.
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Old 07-14-2017, 07:00 AM   #9
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You can clean it either way or if you wanna get rid of it entirely you can just set your idle with your throttle cable and delete the IACV, I've seen a lot of people do that
So i found my knock sensor and the wire on the connector to the sensor was literally not even connected but like 10%. The sensor itself had oil inside of it and so did the connector. I'm not sure if i should try to splice into it, the wires are Hard as hell and super skinny. Thoughts?
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Old 07-14-2017, 08:05 AM   #10
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Flash ur ecu and report back what u find:

http://www.ka24development.com/ecu_codes.html
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Old 07-15-2017, 03:40 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by thesauce View Post
Flash ur ecu and report back what u find:

http://www.ka24development.com/ecu_codes.html
So i re-wired the oil sending unit and cleaned it out and the car started! like 8 times in a row. but had a hella shitty idle. then after i tried to crank it again it did what it did before. wouldn't start but would turn over.

New sensor im thinking?

Last edited by Fraskie; 07-16-2017 at 06:46 AM..
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:57 PM   #12
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Put the new oil sending unit on it and it cranks but doesn't run very well at all. Gonna get the code from the ECU tmrw.

Last edited by Fraskie; 07-18-2017 at 06:14 PM..
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Old 07-19-2017, 12:44 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by thesauce View Post
Flash ur ecu and report back what u find:

http://www.ka24development.com/ecu_codes.html
Checked the ecu for codes and got 55. Aka all clear but it still wont idle well enough for me to even drive it. Been a huge inconvenience for work especially!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKuIH1Ibvg4

Sorry my phone is garbage
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Old 07-19-2017, 02:04 PM   #14
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Do you still have your emissions system? Check all those hoses, they are super brittle and will break with ease. You mentioned someone ghetto rigged an EGR hose, so there's a sign of trouble already. Perhaps consider removing your intake manifold and getting rid of the emissions system and replacing the coolant and vacuum hoses with new units.

If that's not an option for you, spray starter fluid around your intake manifold/EGR/vacuum hoses and see if the idle changes at all. Sounds like a pretty bad vac leak.

You can also make a ghetto boost leak tester and stick in in your throttle while open and put some air in the intake and see where it leaks out, be careful not to pump too much air in it, though.

Code 55 can almost surely rule out any sensors/faults in the EFI system. Could still be stuff like bad injector/running pig rich due to bad inj. seals, etc. Vac leak test is free and easy so try that first.

Also, I had a bad idle in my first KA kind of like yours, and removing and cleaning the IACV thoroughly and reinstalling with new OEM gasket worked wonders! It's not too bad of a job if you are patient.

Hope this helps!
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Old 07-19-2017, 02:51 PM   #15
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[QUOTE=thesauce;6214988]

Thanks again! I'll deff check it all out. The hose that was ghetto rigged i thought went to the EGR but it goes from the firewall down under the intake mani and it has coolant in it.

Check this video out, i removed the 02 sensor and the car wouldn't want to turn over at all. Then once i re-plugged the 02 sensor in it did this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg5SFxL6ewk
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Old 07-19-2017, 02:52 PM   #16
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I also replaced the fuel rail and all the injectors and the injector to intake manifold seals recenlty with new units.
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Old 07-19-2017, 03:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fraskie View Post
I also replaced the fuel rail and all the injectors and the injector to intake manifold seals recenlty with new units.
I've read that o2 sensor isn't always caught in ECU diagnostics, perhaps try replacing it? Should only be a few bucks and one less thing to troubleshoot down the road.

Vac leaks can cause the MAF to tell ECU to dump fuel and can adversely affect your AFRs depending on the severity of the leak, look into those next!
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Old 07-19-2017, 03:36 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by thesauce View Post
I've read that o2 sensor isn't always caught in ECU diagnostics, perhaps try replacing it? Should only be a few bucks and one less thing to troubleshoot down the road.

Vac leaks can cause the MAF to tell ECU to dump fuel and can adversely affect your AFRs depending on the severity of the leak, look into those next!



And as far as the leaks i've done alot to make sure that there aren't any behind the intake mani or in the engine bay as i've had the car for 3-4 years now and i'm a perfectionist lol. The hoses near the EGR valve and on the back of the intake mani are old but none seem to be leaking any air.

Yeah, when i cranked it it smelled like gas. It has to be something simple because i'd be getting a code if it was a sensor for the most part like you said. But i did notice the 02 sensor when unplugged made the car run better and with it plugged in it didnt run at all.
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Old 07-19-2017, 03:47 PM   #19
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Have you checked compression?
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Old 07-19-2017, 04:51 PM   #20
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Nah, but i un-plugged the 02 sensor and the car will crank as much as i want. But once i plug it up it doesn't start. I'm gonna try the o2 sensor when i get paid Fri

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Have you checked compression?
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Old 07-19-2017, 05:11 PM   #21
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Nah, but i un-plugged the 02 sensor and the car will crank as much as i want. But once i plug it up it doesn't start. I'm gonna try the o2 sensor when i get paid Fri
damn that's weird. Considering It's a single wire O2 sensor with not much voltage signal

I believe new should be like $6

or pull some from the junkyard
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Old 07-20-2017, 06:00 AM   #22
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damn that's weird. Considering It's a single wire O2 sensor with not much voltage signal

I believe new should be like $6

or pull some from the junkyard
Yeah, a new one from autozone is like $16. We're also going to use a multi-meter on my TPS and check my fuel pressure. So ready to fix my car!!
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Old 07-24-2017, 01:27 PM   #23
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damn that's weird. Considering It's a single wire O2 sensor with not much voltage signal

I believe new should be like $6

or pull some from the junkyard
Yo, so check this out. The 02 sensor on my car doesn't match any 02 sensors at any part store whether it is a KA24E or KA24DE.

Help? Mine is much larger than the ones i've compared it to. The engine is a KA24DE in a 1990 hatch chassis. The wire connector to the 02 sensor is the flat style.

Any advice/help towards the right 02 sensor would be appreciated.
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Old 07-24-2017, 02:20 PM   #24
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Yo, so check this out. The 02 sensor on my car doesn't match any 02 sensors at any part store whether it is a KA24E or KA24DE.

Help? Mine is much larger than the ones i've compared it to. The engine is a KA24DE in a 1990 hatch chassis. The wire connector to the 02 sensor is the flat style.

Any advice/help towards the right 02 sensor would be appreciated.
pics? this is the once i got a while back

part # 11027

you have to cut the wire from your old 02 and crimp it on this new one

Simple single wire
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Old 07-24-2017, 04:06 PM   #25
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pics? this is the once i got a while back

part # 11027

you have to cut the wire from your old 02 and crimp it on this new one

Simple single wire






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Old 07-25-2017, 09:27 AM   #26
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I've read that o2 sensor isn't always caught in ECU diagnostics, perhaps try replacing it? Should only be a few bucks and one less thing to troubleshoot down the road.

Vac leaks can cause the MAF to tell ECU to dump fuel and can adversely affect your AFRs depending on the severity of the leak, look into those next!
SO..

11035 Is a part number for my car but cant get one at part stores.
11027 is the other OEM part but supposedly the connector is different, but the threads are so small. HELP
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Old 07-25-2017, 09:52 AM   #27
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SO..

11035 Is a part number for my car but cant get one at part stores.
11027 is the other OEM part but supposedly the connector is different, but the threads are so small. HELP
Can't see the pic. photobucket sucks


Yea the connector you have to wire in from the old o2 that's on now.

All 240 02 sensor are the same size

other than the redtop sr20det witch has a skinny 02 sensor. but that would not be on your KA since its a 3 wire o2
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Old 07-25-2017, 03:11 PM   #28
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did you ever get it figured out?

also, shout out to another fellow alabama 240 owner. what part of bama are you in?
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Old 07-26-2017, 10:08 PM   #29
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did you ever get it figured out?

also, shout out to another fellow alabama 240 owner. what part of bama are you in?
Nah man, my 02 sensor is FAT as hell as far at the threads are concerned. Every single 02 sensor ive checked at autozone is small in comparison to my threads. It is a stock header and a stock o2 sensor but all the ones i try to buy are way too small and will not thread in.

I'm about to take my car to a shop and really dont have the money for that but am frustrated and cannot seem to get it running right. I doubt the 02 sensor is even the cause, but the wire is almost ripped off so i need it changed.
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Old 07-26-2017, 10:09 PM   #30
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Can't see the pic. photobucket sucks


Yea the connector you have to wire in from the old o2 that's on now.

All 240 02 sensor are the same size

other than the redtop sr20det witch has a skinny 02 sensor. but that would not be on your KA since its a 3 wire o2
Both 11027 and 11035 are too small, the threads do not match mine on my 02 sensor or my header.

I ordered a thread adapter for my car, W00T! Cant wait lmao. Now gotta figure out why its running like a#$

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