My own S14 subframe bushing write up. (Energy suspension Solid polyurethane bushings)

[SR2oD3T]

FOR 240SX S14, INSTALLING ENERGY SUSPENSION SOLID POLYURETHANE BUSHINGS.

y make another write up?
i've seen so many forum and write ups on different source and youtube. it kinda gives u an idea, but it also confusing. as there are different people using different method (burn/cut), on different car (s13/s14), using different parts (solid ES poly/solid aluminum). some people success and some people failed and ending up buying a new subframe or forced to go solid aluminum.

i know this is not the first write up of doing subframe bushing on s14, but it happens that i need to do mines and having some confusion after i did a deep enough research. i was taking pictures while i was doing every steps, post it on zilvia.net and ask questions when i have a doubt. ending up i kinda asked and answered my own question. to make this "write up" complete, here's the link i originally posted for questions. it contains the first half part of replacing the ES bushing.

assume that u know how to drop the rear subframe. its not that hard at all. i dropped the whole thing and disassembled all the arms and diff on the floor. some people don't remove it, but i was planning to burn the rubber bushings and don't wanna heat or damage any of the suspension parts. also its lighter and easier to flip around the subframe while u are working on it.

first half part:
http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/510002...shing-s14.html

up to this part, i just burnt down all the leave over rubber and cleaned them with wire brush so i can see what exactly it contains inside the stock bushings. then i stopped everything without cutting anything until i received the ES bushings from UPS the next day.



here's the ES solid poly subframe bushings in red (u can choose black or red, they are the same). all four of them are same size so u can put them on the front or rear.


this is the top rear of the subframe. it fits right it pretty tight with just a strong hand push. so i don't have to cut any sleeve on the rear. just need clean it more with wire bushing, put the bushing in and call it a day.


here is the top front of the subframe. i put the bushing on top to measure. u can see the inside ring is on its way so that needs to be gone.


flip the subframe over. this is the bottom rear of the subframe. i put the bottom part of the bushing in, but u can see the ring doesn't really hold the bushing. don't worry about it cus when u install the top part of the bushing above, the ES bushing middle sleeve will kinda grab the bottom piece, and your stock nuts and bolt it up in place.


this is the bottom front of the subframe. u can see the bottom part of the ES bushing fits right in with a hand push. so this ring needs to stay. don't cut this!

so now, we only need to work on the front ones. there are many suggestion on tools while doing my research, but i'll say use whatever u feel comfortable and works. buy the tools if u don't have it. in my case, i have a pretty good collection of tools handy. i used jigsaw to make some cut on the lip, then this...


u can see there's actually two parts. my confusion while doing the research was because different people name the parts differently. so for me, in this write up, i m gonna name them my way with detail pictures, so u guys will know what i m talking about.
for the first front subframe hole, u can see me hammering and trying to separate the "inner cage". its kinda like a sideway H that still have some leave over plastic on it.



some hammer and pry, u can take it out and it looks like this. and u can clearly see there's still a "sleeve" thats makes the ES subframe bushing can't go in. and sure enough, that needs to come out.


i used the similar method, hammer and pry, and the "inner sleeve" comes out like this.


to make things clear, here's the picture of what has been taking out. first the "inner cage", then the "inner sleeve". then u are done! DO NOT cut or damage the "outer cup". that needs to stay with the subframe if u are installing the poly bushing. i think u only take the "outer cup" out if u are installing solid aluminum bushings. otherwise, clean the inside with wire bushing and put the ES bushing it. its just like the rear ones, its gonna be a perfect tight fit with a hand push.


to make it more clear, i do the other side with the similar method. however i removed them BOTH (inner cage and inner sleeve) the same time.


just like this! its a little faster if u remove both together. but it requires a little more man hammering power.


i found the key to do this is being patient, wait for your parts arrive, measure them directly to the subframe hole to determine what needs to be remove and what needs to stay with the installation as u might be ordering different brand of bushings. well, at least i did it that way.

bottom line, i m not an expert or genius, i just wanna share my experience and help out some people who wants to do their subframe bushings and having the similar confusion like i did.

hope this help and i need to get back to work now.....


KELvin

[codyace]

Looks good man! Beats using the old fire technique! I use a similar method, works great!

[blueshark123]

best tool to have for this a air impact hammer, it makes the job a walk in the park.

[splitfire]

Originally Posted by blueshark123

best tool to have for this a air impact hammer, it makes the job a walk in the park.

I did this job with dremel cut-off wheel. 15 minutes for both sides and sleeves just popped out with a little help of flathead screwdriver:

[EsChassisLove]

So with solid bushings, the entire sleeve comes out of front, but the sleeve in the rear stays...correct? I'm at this point now and don't want to cut the rear sleeve without knowing.

I know I'm bumping an old thread.