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Tech Talk Technical Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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02-24-2016, 08:31 AM | #1 |
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Plug-n-play Ignitor Bypass?
For most ignition coil pack upgrades that require removing the igniter, there seems to be only two ways: a) cut the connectors off and splice the wires together, or b) crack open the igniter, figure out a way to remove the guts and solder in some jumper wires.
I'm working with a company now to make a one-off dummy igniter module that is essentially jumper wires inside of the igniter case. My thought is that I can easily return to stock if needed, and I also don't want to cut up my wiring specialties harness. I was wondering if there's any interest in having them make more? UPDATE: I ordered 10 of these things based on feedback from here and the various Facebook groups. Get them while you can! FS post: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=626258 Last edited by LoSt180; 03-28-2016 at 12:40 PM.. |
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03-01-2016, 06:14 PM | #6 | |
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Plug-n-play Igniter Bypass?
Quote:
I've been looking for someone to make a plug and play ignitor delete for a while now. So I'm definitely interested. However you've got a problem here, the correct way to delete the ignitor is not wiring straight across from the E pins to the I pins. This will result in an incorrect firing order. It needs to be wired as such: E1-I4, E2-I1, E3-I2, E4-I3 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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03-01-2016, 06:40 PM | #7 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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That color code is incorrect. I've opened up two igniters now and the circuitry is indeed straight across. You have to go by pins, not the colors.
I've also studied the FSM wiring diagrams to confirm. |
03-01-2016, 06:55 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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03-01-2016, 07:00 PM | #9 |
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His wiring was also using the FSM as reference, because he did wire it straight across and the firing order was wrong... After he changed it it was corrected. So, whatever you wanna do mate.
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03-01-2016, 07:47 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
I'll be sure to provide an update when I get everything installed. Last edited by LoSt180; 03-09-2016 at 08:18 AM.. |
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03-01-2016, 08:02 PM | #11 |
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Will there be a production run of these deletes? Will they all be yellow? I feel that black would be more subtle. Either way, great product for those who want to upgrade their coils and not permanently modify the harness or ignitor.
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03-01-2016, 08:04 PM | #12 | |
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I didn't even catch onto that, crazy man. Looking forward to updates on this because Z33 coil packs plug right into the sr20 coil harness, just have to swap two wires and delete the ignitor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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03-01-2016, 08:17 PM | #14 |
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I'm assuming they fit the plugs and valve cover correctly? How do they compare with Lxx coils? My tuner was raving about the voltage of the GM stuff, but if we can stay coil-on-plug with a similar improvement, the Z33 coils sound like the better choice.
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03-01-2016, 09:06 PM | #16 | |
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They are definitely stronger than Sr coils, and a whole lot easier to find and cheaper. They fit well in the valve cover but I don't believe they can bolt down, I'll go back out and check if they can later on tonight. I'm willing to bet the GM stuff has a higher power potential due to the way they get wired, so I guess you could put z33 coils in the middle of Sr and ls? For ease of install the z33 is less wiring for sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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03-01-2016, 09:34 PM | #17 |
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COP is pretty simple to wire. Ground, Signal and (+5 or whatever) Volts. The Ignitor has 5 wires from the harness and 4 wires for the coils (I hate the idea of an ignitor BTW! Just another failure point and Nissan did away with it with the S15)
The FSM is your best friend here as the S15 vs S13/S14 the signal and positive wire is swapped for instance. @LoSt180; do you have the PM I sent you?? If not, I can post my wiring here. But for everyone else, just use the FSM and trace the wires. Unless you have a new harness which is color coded correctly, no telling what wires are in there currently. I did a wire diagram using the S14 and S15 FSM, a Power supply (generate voltage) and a volt meter. Luckily, my harness followed the FSM, so that made removing the ignitor and going with direct COP via the S15 coils fairly straightforward. What the OP is portraying makes life so much easier with no cut wires! |
03-02-2016, 05:07 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
Also, the S15 and Z33 coils are wired the same. Z33 coils can be bolted down if you use a plastic spacer on the bolt to keep it level. The boots won't seal the plug holes, they kind of "hover" over the openings. Can still use the cover though. When my coil boots get here, I'm going to see if they fit Z33 coils also (I have a G35). Starting to sound like I should see about doing a small production run after I test this thing out. |
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03-07-2016, 05:17 PM | #19 |
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03-09-2016, 08:42 AM | #22 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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Z33 coils are wired the same as S15 coils. If using S13/S14 subharness, you just have to flip 12V and Ground, pretty simple with a small flathead to move the pins around.
If looking at the end of the connector (terminal side) it goes: S15/Z33 - [12V]-[GND]-[SIG] S13/S14 - [GND]-[12V]-[SIG] If you have a wiring specialties coil harness, the colors are: Ground - Purple/black stripe, 12V - Green, Signal for cylinder #1 is black, 2,3,4 are pink wires. Not sure why #1 is black, probably for backward compatibility with the S13 check circuit, but I bet people confuse it for ground all the time. S15 coils installed and wired up properly. The original wiring (mainly looking at positions of Green and Purple here), as well as test fitting a Z33 coilpack with S14 coil boots. |
03-09-2016, 01:01 PM | #23 |
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Plug-n-play Igniter Bypass?
Awesome thanks for that info. Have you ran the z33 coilpacks yet? I'm curious how much more powerful they are, and how much more I can open up my plug gap with them. I had to gap pretty small with stock coils when I went to 15psi on a t28 [emoji28]
I was going to try my s13 coil boots on the z33 coils but it didn't look like it would work properly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
03-09-2016, 01:22 PM | #24 | |
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Quote:
The S13/S14 coilpack boots aren't serviceable, meaning you can't swap them over to a different coilpack. The boot in that pic is really a Splitfire S13/14 boot (I have a spare set of boots if interested). |
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03-23-2016, 12:39 PM | #30 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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UPDATE:
I ordered 10 of these things based on feedback from here and the various Facebook groups. Get them while you can! FS post: http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=626258 |
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