Ka24e persistent code 32

[nwg916]

I can't seem to find out why I keep getting a cel code 32. I've tried 3 different functioning egr valves, 4-5 functioning bpt valves and many different egr solenoids. I've replaced all vacuum lines, and cleaned out the intake port for the egr. All vacuum lines are hooked up correctly. Ive also replaced the egr temperature sensor with a brand new one from the dealer. I've checked voltages for the egr solenoid, and the ecu both read correctly as the fsm says. I've been trying to figure this problem out for weeks. The other day I hit a speed bump and it busted a whole in my cat but I'm not sure if I fixed the problem and now the hole in the cat is causing the light or what. My timing is also advanced a little, not sure if this affects the egr or not? I'm stumped if anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks

[nwg916]

Anyone have any ideas?

[HellRazor]

Old thread but bumping because I'm in a similar scenario with my 89 KA24E. The mechanic looking at my car has pretty much tried all this too and we're stuck. I've looked through the FSM myself trying to figure it out. This check engine light comes on and will stay on for a bit then turn off but eventually it always comes back on. I haven't pinpointed how to trigger it but it happens during both normal street driving and on the freeway

No I don't want to remove the EGR system lol

I will add, in my scenario, the check engine light only started showing up after I swapped out my stock exhaust for a 3 inch catback, I'm not sure if that would cause it but it might be worth mentioning. I will also add that since the light has been on (2 months now) I've had horrible gas mileage and my car has been popping from the exhaust at idle and backfiring often when switching gears, I know that could just be from the bigger piping but I wanna give as much detail to what I'm noticing. I believe it's also messed up my catalytic converter because now it makes a really noticeable rattling noise at certain RPMs. I took it to the shop that installed my exhaust and according to them my cat needs to be replaced. Idk if my timing is off like the person who started this thread mentioned but I did also hit something and damage my stock exhaust piping from the back near the subframe, everything in front of that was fine. When the 3 inch was put on they also had to cut the old piping off because it was welded to the cat and then welded a flange onto the cat so it I could bolt on the new exhaust. Could a damaged cat. converter be causing this check engine light code 32? I can't think of anything else to try at this point.

[HellRazor]

Buuuuump!!!!!

[anti tyler]

Have you not checked this out yet?

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=532857

[HellRazor]

Originally Posted by anti tyler

Have you not checked this out yet?

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=532857

Yup I had actually already seen that thread

Anyway, here's an update that might help someone in the future. The check engine light seems to have gone away and hasn't came back for 2 weeks now after replacing my catalytic converter. So somehow my failing cat. caused the ECU to recognize it as an EGR problem. I don't recall the FSM instructing to check the cat for a Code 32.

[p00t]

Originally Posted by HellRazor

I will add, in my scenario, the check engine light only started showing up after I swapped out my stock exhaust for a 3 inch catback, I'm not sure if that would cause it but it might be worth mentioning.

By lowering your exhaust back pressure you have done two things to the EGR system:
1. There is less driving force to push the exhaust into the intake so there will be less flow with the EGR at the same position as before.
2. There is less pressure pushing on the BPT valve, so the BPT always thinks you are at a very light load, so this will always cause the EGR to open very little.

If the light was kicking on-off during the week you are right on the edge of being OK. Changing your busted cat out for a new one could put just enough backpressure in for the system to pass the diagnostic, but you may still fail the sniffer with high NOx.

Since you have changed the dynamics of the system you will have to fiddle with the BPT to make it give you EGR when you need it. Really the BPT needs a weaker spring inside it. You can try this:



Good Luck!

[andisan]

^^^ best explanation
Makes sense