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S Chassis Technical discussion related to the S Chassis such as the S12, S13, S14, and S15.


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Old 09-13-2011, 10:51 PM   #1
RACEBREAD
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Exclamation LS7 S13 Questions

Hey everyone ive got a rb25det s13 and a sr vert and they arent cutting it for me anymore lol so ive decided to sell a them and do what seems like a badass build but i have a few Q'z...

This will either be into a s13 or s14:
Since the ls7 has a dry sump system and the external oil tank i wouldnt need any aftermarket pan or oil filter relocate stuff correct?
I know i need the mounts which are the same as ls1 right?
has anyone done this swap and tried to used the stock manifolds?
is the power steering, clutch lines and the rest of the swap stuff similar or the same as a ls1?
Any recommendations or other info i will need?
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Old 09-16-2011, 03:22 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RACEBREAD View Post
Hey everyone ive got a rb25det s13 and a sr vert and they arent cutting it for me anymore lol so ive decided to sell a them and do what seems like a badass build but i have a few Q'z...

This will either be into a s13 or s14:
1- Since the ls7 has a dry sump system and the external oil tank i wouldnt need any aftermarket pan or oil filter relocate stuff correct?
2 - I know i need the mounts which are the same as ls1 right?
3 - has anyone done this swap and tried to used the stock manifolds?
4 - is the power steering, clutch lines and the rest of the swap stuff similar or the same as a ls1?

Any recommendations or other info i will need?
1 - No, the LS7 still has an oil pan, it just has an external oil pump.. LS7 on top, LS1 f body on bottom.

2 - Yes, hence the LSX designation.

3 - Yes, and the drivers side doesnt work perfectly
4 - Yes depending on which accessories you take off of which car
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:01 PM   #3
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Sikky makes mounts and harness that makes it a direct drop in and turn key. Sikky.com
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:14 PM   #4
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there are a few compants that do that either make mounts or complete kits...hinson, sikky, daft, mckinny, ottos factory, fueled racing.....if your baller, go with the fueled kit, you will not have any regrets. sikky is also good. stay away from daft, only because i hear hes got quite a backorder going on, and not fufilling those orders very well. (1 year waits) shit like that
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Old 09-20-2011, 10:24 PM   #5
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Why would you ever start with an LS7?

Get an LS swap kit, buy a bullshit 5.3 from a junkyard pickup truck, stick some heads/cam on/in it, make some power and enjoy it. Why waste the cash on an LS7 for a 240 swap?
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Old 09-21-2011, 08:52 AM   #6
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A boosted 5.3 will definitely make a sick amount of power. In hot rod magazine a gm 4.8 made over 1000horses 5.3 lq4 is stronger. If u do ls7 read about it first, the only problem with the ls series is the pistons fail. In the ls7 you'll make a nice window if u don't change them out
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:08 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RACEBREAD View Post
Hey everyone ive got a rb25det s13 and a sr vert and they arent cutting it for me anymore lol so ive decided to sell a them and do what seems like a badass build but i have a few Q'z...

This will either be into a s13 or s14:
Since the ls7 has a dry sump system and the external oil tank i wouldnt need any aftermarket pan or oil filter relocate stuff correct?
I know i need the mounts which are the same as ls1 right?
has anyone done this swap and tried to used the stock manifolds?
is the power steering, clutch lines and the rest of the swap stuff similar or the same as a ls1?
Any recommendations or other info i will need?
As for the LS7, it SHOULD fit the ls1 swap kits, but call any of the swap companies to confirm. Yes on basically all the other info you asked. Read some swap threads; there's a good thread right now on here that some dude is swapping an LS3 into his car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaluska View Post
1 - No, the LS7 still has an oil pan, it just has an external oil pump.. LS7 on top, LS1 f body on bottom.

2 - Yes, hence the LSX designation.

3 - Yes, and the drivers side doesnt work perfectly
4 - Yes depending on which accessories you take off of which car
LS7 is dry sumped; the pan is smaller and should clear the xmember nicely.
Lastly, as for the why swap an ls7, this is actually a good question. The sleeves in the LS7 are complete dogshit and crumble relatively easily; don't believe me, call up Dan Benson and he will tell you. A simple ls1/2/3/9 or lsa is good enough. I got an LS2/t56 complete swap with pedal, ecu, harnesses, even dash cluster for only 5k... and it makes over 500hp with all the extra shyt on it. No reason to spend 7-10k on an LS7 that barely makes 500hp.
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Old 09-22-2011, 01:11 PM   #8
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I wish i had that much cash to buy an LS7. Not that you couldnt get one for cheap tho. Employee cost at the dealer where i work is $13,634.50 but im not exactly sure if thats what they would sell for. And as far as the LS7 fitting, all LS blocks are basically the same.
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:24 PM   #9
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I wish i had that much cash to buy an LS7. Not that you couldnt get one for cheap tho. Employee cost at the dealer where i work is $13,634.50 but im not exactly sure if thats what they would sell for. And as far as the LS7 fitting, all LS blocks are basically the same.
LS7 is different from the others.

Anyway, there's some dude on LS1tech with an LS7 block for something like 4k but it needs sleeved, one head MAY need replaced, needs new springs, valves, retainers, pistons, guides and seats, and doesn't come with a trans AND may need rods. If you get the block sleeved by Benson, that's $2200 right away, plus shipping.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:20 PM   #10
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Sleeving any ls motor isn't really a good idea since the block is molded around these sleeves, so unless it is built to stock holding good power for a long time is not in the future.. Beat bet is buying an lsx long block from gm since it uses an iron block the power out put is endless.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:22 PM   #11
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If the block needs to be sleeved good chances the block is shot.
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Old 09-23-2011, 02:02 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beejis60 View Post
LS7 is different from the others.

Anyway, there's some dude on LS1tech with an LS7 block for something like 4k but it needs sleeved, one head MAY need replaced, needs new springs, valves, retainers, pistons, guides and seats, and doesn't come with a trans AND may need rods. If you get the block sleeved by Benson, that's $2200 right away, plus shipping.
and its only $4k? i know ls7s are $$ but really? you want to spend $4k on a broken block basically?
then about $4k in fixing the block to get it back to at least OEM spec, plus $2k for a used T56. add another $3K if you buy a swap kit and need misc swap pieces and clutch pieces.

LS7 is not worth it. unless you just want to brag about having an LS7. most people just buy the cheapest LSx block they can and build it to whatever specs. Half of these LS6/7 S13/14s are NOT real and just been built up to those specs.

i used to want to go LSx but $2k for a used T56 is toooooo much. totally offsets the build being able to pull higher numbers for less than a sr/rb/ka/etc.
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Old 09-23-2011, 06:26 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beejis60 View Post
LS7 is different from the others.

Anyway, there's some dude on LS1tech with an LS7 block for something like 4k but it needs sleeved, one head MAY need replaced, needs new springs, valves, retainers, pistons, guides and seats, and doesn't come with a trans AND may need rods. If you get the block sleeved by Benson, that's $2200 right away, plus shipping.
When it comes to the block all ls series engines are the same. The only difference between an ls7 and a regular ls2 is the bore and stroke and and the fact that it has a dry sump oiling system, when you break it down to basics.
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:59 PM   #14
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Sleeving any ls motor isn't really a good idea since the block is molded around these sleeves, so unless it is built to stock holding good power for a long time is not in the future.. Beat bet is buying an lsx long block from gm since it uses an iron block the power out put is endless.
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If the block needs to be sleeved good chances the block is shot.
The #6 cyl wall was scratched from the dropped valve.

And perhaps you didn't read what I posted... it would be Dan Benson doing the sleeving. Not Bob of Dave's Garage that's down the street from you nor your ex-girlfriend's uncle's dog sitter that read about sleeving blocks 10 years ago, but Dan mother effing Benson. He was sleeving LS motors successfully, including LS7's, while you were finger banging Susie in the back seat of your parents car.

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i used to want to go LSx but $2k for a used T56 is toooooo much. totally offsets the build being able to pull higher numbers for less than a sr/rb/ka/etc.
Never saw a t56 for sale for more than $1500 unless it was rebuilt with all new parts and shit.

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When it comes to the block all ls series engines are the same. The only difference between an ls7 and a regular ls2 is the bore and stroke and and the fact that it has a dry sump oiling system, when you break it down to basics.
No, the cyl walls and spacing are quite a bit thinner in the LS7, and the cast is different. Also, the material of the sleeves are different between the two, just to name a few differences.
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:30 AM   #15
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Just do what we did 383 stroked ls1 precision cnc heads and 73mm turbo you'll be fine, 0 vac and 0 boost made 300whp at 3000 on a real dyno, no bs dyno jet
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:31 AM   #16
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Will post end result after done tuning on pump gas
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:03 AM   #17
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Just do what we did 383 stroked ls1 precision cnc heads and 73mm turbo you'll be fine, 0 vac and 0 boost made 300whp at 3000 on a real dyno, no bs dyno jet
Someone on NRR made 452whp on an ls1 with stock internals, fast IM, fast 92mm TB, AFR 205 heads and comp cam w/ .600 lift.
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:29 AM   #18
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I don't doubt that at all. The ls makes alot of power on stock internals if done right.
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Old 09-27-2011, 01:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beejis60 View Post
The #6 cyl wall was scratched from the dropped valve.

And perhaps you didn't read what I posted... it would be Dan Benson doing the sleeving. Not Bob of Dave's Garage that's down the street from you nor your ex-girlfriend's uncle's dog sitter that read about sleeving blocks 10 years ago, but Dan mother effing Benson. He was sleeving LS motors successfully, including LS7's, while you were finger banging Susie in the back seat of your parents car.



Never saw a t56 for sale for more than $1500 unless it was rebuilt with all new parts and shit.



No, the cyl walls and spacing are quite a bit thinner in the LS7, and the cast is different. Also, the material of the sleeves are different between the two, just to name a few differences.
Youre totally missing the point but i guess working at the chevy dealer means i know nothing... lol
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Old 09-27-2011, 02:22 PM   #20
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working at the chevy dealer means i know nothing... lol
Doesn't mean you know everything either. I have to school the guys at any stealership I've ever gone to when buying shit. So it's very possible you know nothing.
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Old 09-27-2011, 03:23 PM   #21
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All this money on expensive stuff. Goto U Pull it Race parts (every good town has one) and get a junkyard 5.3 or a 6.0 and go from there. Why pay the premium for some pull out? Just start with the basics, and go from there. You could have one seriously B/A machine for pennies if you do it right. Unsure what the hang up and pretend stuff with the LS7 is all about. Leave them for Vettes and rich guys...if you wanna go fast go buy used truck blocks.
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Old 09-28-2011, 03:58 AM   #22
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Doesn't mean you know everything either. I have to school the guys at any stealership I've ever gone to when buying shit. So it's very possible you know nothing.
Im not saying i do but it doesnt sound like u know either.
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