GKTech - S13/S14 Roll Center Correction Kits

[GKTECH]

S13/180sx 40mm Roll Center Correction Kit - PRE BUY

The GKTECH roll center correction kit is CNC machined from 7075-T6 aluminium and provides 40mm of roll center correction, 40mm of bump steer correction and also re-positions the steering arm to increase steering lock. The roll center correction kit bolts up to the bottom of your standard knuckle and can be removed with no ramifications at all. With the use of our steering rack spacers (non offset) you will see 60 degrees of lock. By far the cheapest way of getting both roll center correction and lock.

NOTE: These will increase camber as it pushes the bottom of the wheel out 25mm so best to only use with camber tops.


Vehicle Compatibility:
- Nissan 180sx
- Nissan S13 Silvia

Price: 249 AUD (approx. 214 USD)

Shipping cost: From 77 AUD (approx. 73 USD)

Zilvia.net intro offer of $30 shipping credit when you spend over $100 using the discount code "Zilvia.net" in the checkout for the month of July.

ORDER HERE: http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s13-...te-august.html




S14/S15 40mm Roll Center Correction Kit - PRE BUY

The GKTECH roll center correction kit is CNC machined from 7075-T6 aluminium and provides 40mm of roll center correction, 40mm of bump steer correction and also re-positions the steering arm to increase steering lock. The roll center correction kit bolts up to the bottom of your standard knuckle and can be removed with no ramifications at all. With the use of our steering rack spacers (non offset) you will see 60 degrees of lock. By far the cheapest way of getting both roll center correction and lock.

NOTE: These will increase camber as it pushes the bottom of the wheel out 25mm so best to only use with camber tops.


Vehicle Compatibility:
- Nissan S14 200SX
- Nissan S15 200SX

Price: 249 AUD (approx. 214 USD)

Shipping cost: From 77 AUD (approx. 73 USD)

Zilvia.net intro offer of $30 shipping credit when you spend over $100 using the discount code "Zilvia.net" in the checkout for the month of July.

ORDER HERE: http://www.gktech.com/index.php/s14-...te-august.html





For any inquiries please e-mail us at [email protected].

[Ilya]

So effectively, you spaced out the front wheels by 25mm? In order for me to restore my front camber back, I need to space out the top of the wheel by 25mm. So now my wheel is 25mm from where it started.

[G-E@Z31P]

Depending on your coilovers, you could flip your bracket upside down for more positive...

[Ilya]

So that's about 4.5 degrees of negative camber to correct for, using positive camber via plates. I just don't see how one corrects that much while maintaining the wheels under fenders.

Great product design and idea though. Glad there are companies that are still innovative.

[e30gangsta]

I assume you would have to run aftermarket wide fenders to run these.

[FaLKoN240]

You guys are cry babies.

I run -4.5 degrees of camber on an 18x9.5 +13 with a 32mm spacer.

[GKTECH]

Depending on your previous wheel setting you might indeed need a wider fender. If you want more lock and better RC with this product then you have to take in to account that the wheel will have to move out a bit. The same is the case with extended lower control arms. Moving the wheel out gives you more chassis rail clearance though. The negative camber can be reduced by using camber tops.

[SOAZ]

Is all the necessary hardware provided? As in the studs for attaching the block to the hub.

[TheRealSy90]

Man, I can't decide if I want these or modded knuckles... These just look so cool. And I could definitely use the added clearance from the wheel to the LCA/Tension rod since i'm running 10j up front.

[FaLKoN240]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

Man, I can't decide if I want these or modded knuckles... These just look so cool. And I could definitely use the added clearance from the wheel to the LCA/Tension rod since i'm running 10j up front.

This is exactly how I feel. I could tack a few more dollars onto the asking price and get some PBM drop knuckles. decisions decisions.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by SOAZ

Is all the necessary hardware provided? As in the studs for attaching the block to the hub.

Everything needed for fitment is provided.

[jano86]

they fit S13 as well? How about the clearance with tension rod? What if I have the rack moved forward, will it work ok for me?

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by jano86

they fit S13 as well? How about the clearance with tension rod? What if I have the rack moved forward, will it work ok for me?

Hi there, sorry for the delayed response (we don't use these forums all that often).

We have an S13 version and we have an S14/S15 version.

I'm not sure what your question about the tension rods is? Clearance depends on your wheel fitment and what tension rods you're running but it's easiest for you to see how much clearance you have rather than me guess.

Having the rack moved forward is no issue.

[baube]

people have feedback on these?

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by baube

people have feedback on these?

We've sold around 200 pairs to date and the feedback has been really good so far. There is a video on YouTube from one of our curstomers drivers driving his wifes A31 Cefiro which is running our RC correction kit (same suspension setup as an S13) http://youtu.be/J4lUADaT5jI?list=UUv...st0sNHdj1huD3A

[FaLKoN240]

Bumping this because you guys posted on IG and I bought a pair.

Do I need to get longer tie rods? Can you offer any more information about them since the initial release?

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by FaLKoN240

Bumping this because you guys posted on IG and I bought a pair.

Do I need to get longer tie rods? Can you offer any more information about them since the initial release?

If you're running offset rack spacers or similar with the RC correction kit then you shouldn't need to use longer tie rods.

[Stiveno]

I bought regular slip on rack spacers along with this, does that mean I need longer tie rods then?

[GKTECH]

It depends on how much adjustment you have on your tie rods and also on how your suspension is sitting. You MAY have enough adjustment but best to check on the actual car with your setup before going any longer.

[Stiveno]

FYI to anybody who buys these and thier offset rack spacers, you will need short tie rods. I bought a pair of brand new tien inner and outers with this setup and they were way too long, im getting my lcas extended 25mm to compensate.

[FaLKoN240]

I recently bought these and had to sell them.

They didn't work with my wheel set up at all.

S14 Running stock LCAs with Moog tie rods

My wheels were 18x10+5 and didn't clear.

The wheels were too wide and hit everything in the wheel well.

I know that's a ridic spec and most people don't run that, but just a fair warning on the site would be nice with a recommended wheel spec.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by Stiveno

FYI to anybody who buys these and thier offset rack spacers, you will need short tie rods. I bought a pair of brand new tien inner and outers with this setup and they were way too long, im getting my lcas extended 25mm to compensate.

Depending on when you purchased the offset rack spacers just a week or so ago we switched to a V2 of the offset rack spacers which from memory is 7mm's or so shorter on each side.

Cutting the tie rods down is common practice. Are you saying that even with them cut down there wasn't enough thread?

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by FaLKoN240

I recently bought these and had to sell them.

They didn't work with my wheel set up at all.

S14 Running stock LCAs with Moog tie rods

My wheels were 18x10+5 and didn't clear.

The wheels were too wide and hit everything in the wheel well.

I know that's a ridic spec and most people don't run that, but just a fair warning on the site would be nice with a recommended wheel spec.

I understand what you're saying but as you also mentioned 18x10 +5 isn't a common fitment that people run in the front unless they're also running +30mm LCA's or more.

The only downside to the RC correction is that it increases your scrub radius just like a low offset rim or wheel spacers do. Essentially with your +5 wheels you then went to a -20mm offset with the increase in scrub radius. Although it's never been raised before, I will put more of an emphasis of this on the website.

[Stiveno]

Originally Posted by GKTECH

Depending on when you purchased the offset rack spacers just a week or so ago we switched to a V2 of the offset rack spacers which from memory is 7mm's or so shorter on each side.

Cutting the tie rods down is common practice. Are you saying that even with them cut down there wasn't enough thread?

Well I should technically be able to use more angle with extended lcas anyways, but I didn't cut them but I will if I need too. It would just be nice if you guys would have included reccomended length tie rods with this, I'm probably using the old spacer

[FaLKoN240]

For reference, I'm running 18x10-19 (18x10+6 with a 25mm spacer) and I have full clearance, which is why I thought the RCA would give me more clearance, but it changed too much of the geometry and I couldn't figure it out.

Have to go with cut and shut knuckles for now.

[Bushido]

would these work on a S13 with S14 LCA (S13 balljoint), SPL inner/outer tie rod ends, slip-on steering angle spacer on inner tie rod, 18x9 +15?

do i need to change anything?

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by Stiveno

Well I should technically be able to use more angle with extended lcas anyways, but I didn't cut them but I will if I need too. It would just be nice if you guys would have included reccomended length tie rods with this, I'm probably using the old spacer

The required length depends on a number of factors and having a list of all the variables would probably confuse people more than not having a length listed. The length needs to be set based on your setup and in some cases it doesn't need to be altered at all but when you move the tie rods out there is a chance that cutting may be required.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by FaLKoN240

For reference, I'm running 18x10-19 (18x10+6 with a 25mm spacer) and I have full clearance, which is why I thought the RCA would give me more clearance, but it changed too much of the geometry and I couldn't figure it out.

Have to go with cut and shut knuckles for now.

The only geometry that changes is that more camber is introduced (can be wound out with adjustable camber tops) and the scrub radius is increased 25mm's which as mentioned previously is exactly the same as running a +25mm spacer.

Having an 18x10 -19 offset wheel and trying to get lots of steering lock without having +50mm or more lengthened LCA's is going to be impossible.

[GKTECH]

Originally Posted by Bushido

would these work on a S13 with S14 LCA (S13 balljoint), SPL inner/outer tie rod ends, slip-on steering angle spacer on inner tie rod, 18x9 +15?

do i need to change anything?

Sounds perfect. No need to change anything.

[Stiveno]

here is something to mention, if you use s13 balljoints with these they come with a tapered insert for them to fit in the knuckle. if you try removing your flcas, this might get stuck in them.

I had one side come out, the other size wouldn't budge. I had to cut the ball joint off of the flca, and hammer the insert out with a socket. I tried to just knock it off with a hammer, chisel, pb oil, and other things but I didn't want to ruin the insert, and since I was replacing the lcas anyways it didnt matter.

Here is the insert I was talking about stuck on my lca, this lca was replaced within the last few months, I was just switching them out for extended ones, and I installed the kit 2 weeks ago and never drove on it, so rust or old parts wasn't the issue.