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Old 07-11-2012, 04:57 PM   #61
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^Yeah URAS sells them for a ridiculous amount.... GKTech sells them for way cheaper here>
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Picked some up but haven't installed yet.
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:26 PM   #62
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Old 08-19-2012, 01:20 AM   #63
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I didn't want to start a new thread and searching gives now definitive answer. My question is, does anyone know the correct procedure for bleeding a cnc hydro ebrake. I have the one without a cylinder. I remember installing it and trying to bleed it every which way but nothing worked until a guy at a drift event told me how to do it and it instantly worked after that. It was some weird order, like rear left first, then hydro, then rear right, then hyrdo. Then the fronts. But I really can't remember, it was a few years ago. Now I want to re-bleed it but I don't know how.
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Old 08-19-2012, 01:28 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAs14slider View Post
I didn't want to start a new thread and searching gives now definitive answer. My question is, does anyone know the correct procedure for bleeding a cnc hydro ebrake. I have the one without a cylinder. I remember installing it and trying to bleed it every which way but nothing worked until a guy at a drift event told me how to do it and it instantly worked after that. It was some weird order, like rear left first, then hydro, then rear right, then hyrdo. Then the fronts. But I really can't remember, it was a few years ago. Now I want to re-bleed it but I don't know how.
No change in bleeding since the inline master is, wait for it... inline. But yeah I use the same one (have for years) and give the hydro a couple squeezes when bleeding the rears just to clear it out.
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Old 08-19-2012, 02:16 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
No change in bleeding since the inline master is, wait for it... inline. But yeah I use the same one (have for years) and give the hydro a couple squeezes when bleeding the rears just to clear it out.
Yeah but I remember me and my buddy were trying forever to bleed it. And the rear would literally not lock up even one bit. Then when I got to the drift event this guy gave me a very specific bleeding order. After we did that it worked like a charm. I don't know if its RR, then RL then hydro, then fronts. Or maybe it was pump the hydro, hold it, then do RR, RL. Know what I mean. What is the exact procedure that you do to bleed yours?
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Old 08-19-2012, 02:34 AM   #66
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I used the one man bleeder, just bleed like normal... Worked perfect! Just keep pumping until u have no air on the lines
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Old 08-19-2012, 02:39 AM   #67
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Bleeding it like normal totally didn't work for me. Had no rear lockup at all.
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:12 PM   #68
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I installed my hydro last night. Used pedal only, since it was "inline" figured that would work... it didnt haha. Tonight i'm going to bleed the rears with the handle only. See how that works. Figured i'll pull back on it, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, then let the handle up. And do that a few times on each side. (starting with RR first) Any input on this?
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:21 PM   #69
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did you bench bleed the hydro? it took me like 2 hours of straight bleeding to get mine good. used a pbm with wilwood master
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Old 10-01-2012, 09:01 PM   #70
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Quote:
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I installed my hydro last night. Used pedal only, since it was "inline" figured that would work... it didnt haha. Tonight i'm going to bleed the rears with the handle only. See how that works. Figured i'll pull back on it, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, then let the handle up. And do that a few times on each side. (starting with RR first) Any input on this?
Driver's side rear is actually the furthest IIRC, but yeah, pump the brakes, then pump the hydro (and be amazed by how much fluid comes out), and then I typically will hold the hydro handle in a bit and pump the foot brake again, then it's good.

2hrs bleeding brakes? Unless it's some new ABS/Sensotronic Brake Cylinder shit, that's ridiculous. Couple pumps with a Mityvac on it, you're good.
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Old 10-02-2012, 07:57 AM   #71
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ASD, inline 3/4 master, all hard lines
yeah, bleeding is definitely a bit troublesome, took me about 30min mixed bleeding with the pedal and hydro... I tried a mityvac, but it wasn't strong enough to pull through the cylinder.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:27 PM   #72
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I have a question for everyone with hydros.... Is there anyone who is running a stock length handle with the hydro in the stock position? I tried and its impossible.

Im running a dual caliper set up with a ksport hydro (3/4 bore MC), -3An lines, with Z32 calipers, and new autozone cheapo pads. The only way i can get it to lock up was extending the handle and even then its like 10x harder to lock up than with the stock z32 ebrake system.

I thought a hydro was intended to be an updrade in locking power and make it easier to lock up the rear. I can see that with a long enough handle you can produce enough leverage to feel like its locking them up easy but thats all leverage.

i feel like i paid a buch of cash to have a lower grade ebrake that requires a big ol goofy handle to work properly. Has anyone else had these same feelings or is my set up lacking something that im overlooking.

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Old 10-04-2012, 06:11 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTnickdizzle View Post
I have a question for everyone with hydros.... Is there anyone who is running a stock length handle with the hydro in the stock position? I tried and its impossible.

Im running a dual caliper set up with a ksport hydro (3/4 bore MC), -3An lines, with Z32 calipers, and new autozone cheapo pads. The only way i can get it to lock up was extending the handle and even then its like 10x harder to lock up than with the stock z32 ebrake system.

I thought a hydro was intended to be an updrade in locking power and make it easier to lock up the rear. I can see that with a long enough handle you can produce enough leverage to feel like its locking them up easy but thats all leverage.

i feel like i paid a buch of cash to have a lower grade ebrake that requires a big ol goofy handle to work properly. Has anyone else had these same feelings or is my set up lacking something that im overlooking.
You should REALLY look into upgrading the pads. Read back through this thread man. Night and day difference. Make sure you bleed it extremely well. With a dual caliper setup you shouldnt have any issues at all bleeding..
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:55 AM   #74
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^ ive had a few people tell me new Autozone cheap pads are the best in terms of cold bite for a hydro ebrake . After reading back through the thread a second time i think i may just upgrade to a 7/8" bore MC and maybe some -4AN lines and see how that works.
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Old 10-05-2012, 02:26 PM   #75
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Autozone pads might be OK, but if you really want some good pads, go buy good pads.

Protip: they'll cost $90+, and they'll probably eat your rotors faster than Autozone pads, but holy shit does the fun level change when you've got good brake pads F+R.
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Old 10-05-2012, 04:30 PM   #76
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What pads would u recomend for some good initial bite? Im running Hawk HP front and rear right now for the real brakes but autozone pads on the hydro.

Is the brand of MC important for the response or is the Ksport 3/4" just as responsive as a willwood 3/4". I assume the wilwood will last longer but is it more responsive as well?
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Old 03-26-2013, 07:50 PM   #77
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Can anyone tell me exactly what fittings I need for the wilwood master? I went to a few parts stores and no one has the fitting for the bigger port. WTF? I know I can't be the only one that has had this problem but I can't seem to find the answer anywhere on the web
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:49 PM   #78
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Which Wilwood master? The pressure fittings are usually 1/8" NPT on the new stuff, but the old ones were 3/8"-24 and the reservoir fitting is 7/16"-20 if it's threaded.
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:11 AM   #79
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The .75 inline master. I found a diagram showing the fitting I need is 7/16 20.

I've been to 4 part stores now and no one carries it. Where the hell do I find this thing?
Is it hard to find because there's normally no pressure running through that port?
Where did everyone else get theirs?
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:30 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breakbeat93 View Post
The .75 inline master. I found a diagram showing the fitting I need is 7/16 20.

I've been to 4 part stores now and no one carries it. Where the hell do I find this thing?
Is it hard to find because there's normally no pressure running through that port?
Where did everyone else get theirs?
Pick it up from a hydraulics shop, or order one from Wilwood. They're around, just not super popular.
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:28 PM   #81
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i wanna do this mod on my s13 but have some questions. what are the basics of it do you still run the e brake cables? what if my mc only has 2 ports and its already tight from the kat mani? what other parts do i need if i buy a k sport ebrake?
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Old 04-02-2013, 02:45 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breakbeat93 View Post
The .75 inline master. I found a diagram showing the fitting I need is 7/16 20.

I've been to 4 part stores now and no one carries it. Where the hell do I find this thing?
Is it hard to find because there's normally no pressure running through that port?
Where did everyone else get theirs?
I JUST went through this.

save you a headache.
http://asdmotorsports.3dcartstores.c...Kit_p_124.html
Buy it from ASD.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:07 PM   #83
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ah these are making me drool
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:31 PM   #84
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I JUST went through this.

save you a headache.
Pass Through Ebrake Hardware Kit
Buy it from ASD.
Wow...wish I read this first. I got so damn fed up I just ordered the whole install kit from enjuku. Those fuckers wouldn't just sell me the fitting I needed. Closest I found after going to literally 15 places was a 7/16-20 w bubble flare just a little too short. I was planning to drill it out to an inverted flare and mill some of the aluminum off the master so if seated all the way.
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:49 PM   #85
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i wanna do this mod on my s13 but have some questions. what are the basics of it do you still run the e brake cables? what if my mc only has 2 ports and its already tight from the kat mani? what other parts do i need if i buy a k sport ebrake?
Yes leave your stock brake cables on, unless you plan to remove your stock ebrake. Tight from the kat Mani? WTF does that mean? You would re-route the rear brake line to run from the stock master to the hand brake master then from hand brake master to the tee block by your passenger rear brake (where the one rear brake line splits into two). The concept is pretty straight forward.

If you can't bend/flare brake lines then just spend the 125 bucks and buy the install kit from enjuku (make sure you tell them it's for an s13, apparently the braided lines are dif sizes for s13/14).
If you CAN make your own lines then order the hardware kit from ASD shogunner just posted up a link to it.
Def buy one or the other. You will save yourself a major fucking headache...I probably spent 125 in gas driving around looking for the right hardware before I just broke down and ordered the install kit. I haven't gotten it yet but I've heard they're good/quality parts.

You will also need to find a spot to mount the new brake which will require some fabrication (welding a base at minimum) unless you remove your stock ebrake and buy this http://asdmotorsports.3dcartstores.c...-Kit_p_21.html
If I could do it all over again I would have bought that and this http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...d-Masters.html right from the beginning and been done w it in an hour

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Old 04-07-2013, 01:18 AM   #86
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I didn't read all the pages but know this, i had a blackworks hydro brake on my fc. I bled the thing i dont know how many times. did the procedure correctly. Used the brake correctly and it would just weep fluid past the piston seal doing nothing but slowing the car down a bit and then acting as though the lever wasn't pulled.

Just for the record i spent ALOT of time dialing in my car and sliding my car. it was a constant thing. Not a set and forget.

I recommend if you get a CHEAP handbrake you buy a wilwood or oem quality master cylinder to avoid problems i had with mine. Also not a bad idea to invest in dual caliper bracket and a dedicated master cylinder res for. If you're going to do it i've been told by pros and am's alike that run hydro setups and LOVE them to do it that way.

Best of luck. Have fun.
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:20 PM   #87
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ok so im down to last thing i need for my hydro i got all the good stuff already i just need to get the lines so i was wondering if anyone could help me out with a diagram or some info on sizings i need??.... im running the ASD hydro with the dual Z32 rear caliper setup on my s14

thanks
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Old 08-21-2013, 06:11 PM   #88
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Quote:
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this thread could be a nice collection of info!

i am running a cnc 'staging' hand brake.
i bought it off of some random rock climbing site i found on google.. was around $110.

with this i had to make a bracket to mount it on, and run some lines that i bent.

i started with a line from my master cyl through my firewall, then a junctions inside the car.. i want to redo this part with a proper AN setup to bolt onto the fire wall.. but from that junctions to the brake.


then i ran the other side of the brake to my passenger firewall where it enters the engine bay again and routes to the rear brake block bolted to my frame rail..


here is the bracket i made and you can see the hardlines going to the brake.
This unit had a slanted handle.. i ordered the straight handle but they sent me the wrong one so on my old car i just made a new handle.
like this:


now i have it replacing the stock location and have made a new handle for it






and this season i changed up the handle a bit


so i replaced the whole rear brake hardline from the master to the passenger side of the engine bay.

i like this a lot. locks up the rear nicely with hawk rear pads on stock s13 brakes.


hopefully it gives you guys some idea how i ran the hardline


see ima newbie at the hydo e brake and yeaa i keep reading mad different things my question with the set up above can that be used as the 'e-brake' like for a parking brake

cause i have a s13 as my weekday DD and a weekend warrior

advice could be helpful
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:50 AM   #89
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So ok i just bought an isis hydro with wilwood and it only has 1 port and its own reservoir... is it just for a dual caliper srtup or can i still make it work? What about capping the mc on the rear port would it ruin the mc? Also did that one guy that was just gona run the back with the hydro and front with pedal did it work? How does it feel ? I know lots of questions sorry just want to be sure before installing
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:57 PM   #90
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So ok i just bought an isis hydro with wilwood and it only has 1 port and its own reservoir... is it just for a dual caliper srtup or can i still make it work? What about capping the mc on the rear port would it ruin the mc? Also did that one guy that was just gona run the back with the hydro and front with pedal did it work? How does it feel ? I know lots of questions sorry just want to be sure before installing
Dual caliper.
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