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Engine Tech Technical discussion related to all relevant engines such as KA, SR, RB, CA, 2JZ , L24/26/28, VG, VQ, and LSx series.


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Old 06-26-2009, 02:55 PM   #121
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sr flywheel torque spec


flywheel - 94-101 ft lbs.
clutch cover - 25-34 ft lbs.


need to use threadlock for safety.
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:24 PM   #122
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by blu808 View Post
Sr blocks are alum, with steel sleeves.

Sr intake manifolds vary. S13 has a long runner manifold, and s14 has a short runner. You can tell the diff, because the s13 manifold has the throttle body under the manifold, and s14 has it about even with the height of the valve cover.

Sr blocks use the upper oil pan for block reinforcement.

Sr20det motors really need an oil cooler. (track)

Oil Filter: Pull off the intake manifold support brackets under the manifold, or you will wish you never had to change your oil again.

sr20 motors dont like ka fuel filters (z32)

Dont raise the boost unless you have an aftermarket fuel pump.

Sr20det trannys are weak.

S15 trannys are even weaker.

Keep your ignitor away from heat (exhaust manifold)

When setting ignition timing with a light, timing marks on crank pully may not be accurate unless you zero the cas (cam angle sensor).

Invest in rocker arm stoppers.

T25 turbos suck.

You better do a good job rerouting the coolant line behind the head for the turbo. Because changing it while the motors in sucks.

ehh.



correction: only remove the intake manifold support bracket if you are going to remove the oil filter from underneath the car. if you want to go from up top and save a lot of time. buy a oil filter cap wrench and use your socket wrench to twist it off. now you wont have to wish that you never had to change your oil again.
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Old 09-08-2009, 02:25 PM   #123
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Block Dowels are the same for all SR20s ... not sure if its been mentioned.

part number
11053-01M00
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Old 10-31-2009, 01:34 PM   #124
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Nissan has a part number for spark plugs. They are NGK 7 cold rating copper spark plugs. The part number is 22401-20J07. They come gapped at .35 so they need to be regapped to .28. Why does this matter? Because these plugs only cost $2.90 each.
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Old 11-25-2009, 01:58 PM   #125
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I'll post some information I have on S15 ECU codes because the internet is massively failing me at the moment.


So far I've encountered 2 coded ECU's for S15's. Both from the Japanese Market.


Some information from Pete at PLMS developments:
Quote:
Traditionally Nissan start off with "00" at the start of the model run and just increment each time there's an update. These are nearly all incremental. So you can swap anything in the series. We've got 91F 00, 01, 05, 06, & 07. These are all JDM images. Autos are 10 and 11. Aussie S15's are 93F00, 01 etc.


The ECU codes that I both have and tested on my JDM S15 motor are "QT" and "NQ"

QT part number is 23710 91f05
NQ part number is 23710 91f08

So from the above paragraph you can see why Pete's conclusion makes sense.

Also just some good information to have:

Quote:
Usually the best images are actually the early ones! What seems to happen is that they release the model and then tunes are updated based on feedback from dealers. From what I can work out this must often be complaints about detonation - due to inferior fuels and/or local conditions (like here in Oz we have lesser fuel than Japan and hotter weather). So they richen mixtures and lessen IGN timing figures = less power.
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Old 05-19-2010, 04:17 PM   #126
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the sr20det equiped in the pulsar gti-r have a larger t28 turbo with a .86 a/r exhaust housing,The s14 and s15 have .64 a/r.
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Old 07-23-2010, 04:30 PM   #127
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s13 sr20det how to fix code 34

I have searched the web and used FSM and found limited info on how to fix code 34.I found write ups on how to bypass the sensor using a resistor,did not want to go that route ,cause if i did and my engine did begin to ping/knock The ECU would not be able to retard timing ,thus preventing engine damage,just want to protect my investment.
1.code 34 means there is something wrong with the knock sensor circuit.It does not mean your engine is knocking.
2.The knock sensor is a Resistor and should read 560M Ohms.
3.on ECU pin 27 (white wire) should produce 5volts with knock sensor disconnected KOEO. KS plug is located between intake runners 3 and 4 disconect it before checking supplied voltage.If OK move on to next step
4.With the KS plug still being disconected check resistance from A (white wire) to engine ground ,it should read 560ohms,wiggle wire connection under manifold ,if resistance changes ,theres your problem,remove KS and check plug and KS for cracks .Replace if ks is out of specs.

This is how the knock circuit works, ECU supplies 5 volts to knock sensor ,KS has a base resistance of 560M ohms when the engine is not knocking.The voltage is stepped down to 2.5 volts (this is normal).

When the KS senses knocking vibration or pinging the sensor changes resistance in the circuit ,this causes the Voltage to oscillate above and below 2.5volts.Then the ECU retards timing in order to prevent engine damage.

Best thing to do on an sr20det powered 240 is to hook up the Consult Diagnostic coinnector and buy a USB to serial Consult cable and download some free software .hook it up to a laptop and you can instantly read all sensor voltages and codes ,I hated doing the LED flashing sequence crap.Otherwise theres no way to really know if we have a code ,I mean we dont have a functional "check engine light"on our gauge cluster to let us know.You can tell when your engine is running like crap tho,but As far as having to do the Flashing LED On the ECU ,forget that!This way is much easier.
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:16 PM   #128
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1999 honda civic si ngk v-power spark plugs work in the rwd SR20DET
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Old 01-19-2011, 09:10 PM   #129
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Anyone wanna explain the difference between a s13 sr20det blacktop and the s14 sr20 blacktop?
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Old 01-21-2011, 10:23 PM   #130
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s13 89 S13 240sx

I just bought an '89 240. All i can find as far as sr20det motors is 90-93 motors. Will this fit in my '89 or does it have to be specifically for an '89 240? And where is a good place to order an sr from?
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Old 01-22-2011, 05:24 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S14chicka View Post
Anyone wanna explain the difference between a s13 sr20det blacktop and the s14 sr20 blacktop?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1sttime240driver View Post
I just bought an '89 240. All i can find as far as sr20det motors is 90-93 motors. Will this fit in my '89 or does it have to be specifically for an '89 240? And where is a good place to order an sr from?
Both of you need to search... This isn't a Q&A thread, it is strictly for information.

Nissan SR20DET - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:39 AM   #132
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The S14 oil filter 15208-65F0C can be replaced with the much larger Purolator oil filter L14610 or the Super Tech ST 7317 (Walmart brand).
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Old 05-03-2011, 05:38 PM   #133
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Thumbs up Sr20 help

This is my problem, I installed an aftermarket turbo manifold (Megan) and a aftermarket intake manifold (Freddy). My car cranks up and starts to idle back and forth from high to low then about 10 seconds it will cut off. I have no clue where to begin looking at. Can somebody lend me some help with this issue, thanks.
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:57 PM   #134
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Fuckin love sr20, Kas are weaaaaaaaaak
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:35 AM   #135
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hi, i need some advices, i want to buy the full gasket kit from Cometic... now, this kit comes with A HG 87.5x1.2mm, and the OEM is 86mm bore size... this 1.5mm gap is confusing me... too risky or it doesnt going to affect? should i buy it or find another HG size?

S13 SR20DET RedTop T25 7-12psi
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:49 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by initial240sx View Post
hi, i need some advices, i want to buy the full gasket kit from Cometic... now, this kit comes with A HG 87.5x1.2mm, and the OEM is 86mm bore size... this 1.5mm gap is confusing me... too risky or it doesnt going to affect? should i buy it or find another HG size?

S13 SR20DET RedTop T25 7-12psi
Cometic is junk get an Apex hg
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Old 06-27-2011, 06:49 PM   #137
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SR20det Red top or Black top?? Whats the difference??(Besides the years of the engines.).
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Old 07-10-2011, 03:17 AM   #138
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sr20det red top or black top?? Whats the difference??(besides the years of the engines.).
read previous posts -___-;
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Old 07-10-2011, 02:12 PM   #139
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read previous posts -___-;
+100 for u
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Old 07-29-2011, 09:22 PM   #140
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Hi sry for being a noob...bought my 1997 kouki with an s13 redtop sr20det swap to it...was reading really hot when the engine was cold..did some research and found out that the people that installed the sr20det didnt swap the temperature sensor for the gauge..bought one for 1997 ka24de (chassis wise) and now its working how it suppose to....now as for the other sensor that goes to the ECU...do i need to swap that too with one from a 1997 KA24de... cuz i read stories of sr20det swaps running rich because of the temp sensor for the ECU...also i saw a writeup of a non turbo SR20de swap..the person who wrote it sed swap both temp sensors..because if u dnt swap the sensor that gives info to the ECU it will run rich..i was wondering if this would apply to my situation or the s13 SR20det...do i need to replace it with one from a 1997 ka24de? also seems like im running rich because car is giving poor gas mileage...
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Old 08-11-2011, 02:23 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supramon808 View Post
bought one for 1997 ka24de (chassis wise) and now its working how it suppose to....now as for the other sensor that goes to the ECU...do i need to swap that too with one from a 1997 KA24de... cuz i read stories of sr20det swaps running rich because of the temp sensor for the ECU...also i saw a writeup of a non turbo SR20de swap..the person who wrote it sed swap both temp sensors..because if u dnt swap the sensor that gives info to the ECU it will run rich..i was wondering if this would apply to my situation or the s13 SR20det..also seems like im running rich because car is giving poor gas mileage...


it is possible, i used a CTS of a 91 se'r. and it runs beautifully. I didnt even think my sensor was bad, but after swapping it ran much smoother.
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Old 08-11-2011, 02:26 PM   #142
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Start it. I will delete unnecessary and off topic posts.
This thread should be something along the lines of how hard is the swap, what's required. Power level stages, build ups, cost tally, and power levels. Warnings and things to watch out for during swap, mods.
I figure this will save alot of heartache as noobs can read this thread and not post stupid questions.
-Jeff
I though it was a pretty clear in the beginning..
Please no questions in the thread.
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:41 AM   #143
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Specifications for the Red Top SR20DET

(Found on the 91-93 180SX & Silvia)
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam Type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore & Stroke 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5:1
Horsepower: 205ps @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4000rpm
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Throttle Body Bore: 60mm
Injector Size: 370cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost.

Specifications for the Black Top SR20DET

(Found on the 94-98 180SX)
Displacement: 1998cc (2.0 liter)
Cam Type: DOHC 16 valve, chain driven cam sprockets
Bore & Stroke: 86mm x 86mm
Compression: 8.5:1
Horsepower: 205hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4000rpm
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Throttle Body Bore: 60mm
Injector Size: 370cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-25, 60 trim 56mm BCI-1 compressor.
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Journal bearings
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The engine should produce 230-250 RWHP at safe boost.

Specifications for the S14 Black Top SR20DET with VTC

(Found on the 95-98 Silvia)
Horsepower: 220hp @ 6000rpm
Torque: 203 ft/lbs @ 4800rpm
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
S14 SR20DET's use a different ECU and harness, these are extremely expensive and hard to find.
Variable valve timing system and a different turbo are the significant changes from the S13 SR20DET engines.
The S13 uses a "low port" intake design vs. the S14 "high port" design.
Performance:
The stock turbo will be safe to 13-15 psi. After that, the turbo is past its efficiency range, and power increases will fall off and are not worth the risk of turbo damage. The stock engine should produce 250-260 RWHP at safe boost using stock turbo. Upgrading turbo, fuel and rest of need parts will yield 300-375.

Specifications for the S15 Black Top SR20DET

(Found on the 99+ Silvia)
Horsepower: 250ps @ 6000rpm
Transmission: 6 Speed, Close Ratio
Injector Size: 480cc/min
Turbo Specs:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: Inconel turbine wheel. Cast divider wall between turbine discharge and wastegate.
Center Section: Ball Bearing
This engine is expensive and hard to get. If you are on a tight budget, please consider other options as the money you save from buying this engine can be better used to build up a really nice red top.
Additions: 6 speed manual transmission. The 6 speed cannot be used on the S13 and S14 motors, and uses a different driveshaft. Speed sensor is located in the differential. The 6 speed is cool, but is not as strong as the 5 speed from the older cars. There is basically 6 gears inside the same housing that was designed to hold 5 gears. This makes the gears smaller and weaker, therby breaking more often.

Hope it helps with the back and forth on engine specs
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Old 08-24-2011, 12:20 PM   #144
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Just throwing this out there. Oil eats rubber, or more specifically any petroleum based products deteriorate rubber based products. Hence water based lubes with your condoms. So to the "know it all's" on here knocking people for dumb questions, then giving crappy advice, take a second and think about when you didnt know shit either. Otherwise, anyone new to working on their car who comes here for help is going to be coming back and asking why this fell apart or that this new hose that they slipped on with a little oil just split 3-6 months later, and you'll have to be annoyed and tell them to go search some obscure post sprinkled with bad advice again.
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Old 09-02-2011, 05:03 PM   #145
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what is the best plugs for an e85 tune? low psi, around 16psi
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Old 11-18-2011, 03:06 PM   #146
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OMFG the next person that asks a question I vote gets banned. I just started reading this thread because I figured it would be full of great information to frequently asked questions, but what did I find? A bunch of noobs asking questions about their own personal problems and questions. STOP FUCKING ASKING QUESTIONS IN HERE AND POST UP ONLY IF YOU HAVE GOOD RELIABLE INFOR-FUCKING-MATION!!!!!!
/rant

Most simple boost leak test (for more minor leaks) spray bottle full of soapy water, spray on IC piping couplers, look for bubbles.

When replacing thermostat, one of the first things that you should change before installing motor, make sure to take the rubber ring off the edge of the t-stat. It won't seat right otherwise, at least in redtop.

AC = easy on the SR. I took KA suction, and high pressure lines, and used the SR compressor fittings that came on the SR compressor (assuming it came with your motor) and took to custom hose maker/fabricator, they welded aluminum SR fittings onto KA lines. Hint: there is a discharge/fill nipple on one of the lines right near the intake inlet on the turbo. when you have the hoses mated, you will want the section with the nipple on it rotated to parallel with the ground, so it doesnt get in the way of the intake tubing(stock). And make sure to replace all o-rings and the accumulator/collection tank.

I've got some more stuff, just got to dig it out of the back of my head.
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:09 PM   #147
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Im a n00b, but does anyone know or have a picture of a sr-20 labeled. I know what the headers and downpipes n shit like that are, but more of inside the engine block. Also how the engine works. sorry for the lame ass questions, no one in my family knows anything about cars
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:51 PM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IwantAs13 View Post
Im a n00b, but does anyone know or have a picture of a sr-20 labeled. I know what the headers and downpipes n shit like that are, but more of inside the engine block. Also how the engine works. sorry for the lame ass questions, no one in my family knows anything about cars


I know its tempting to post a question in a thread dedicated to info only but it makes it much more difficult for someone like me searching for an answer. So if you would read even a page of posts you would see half the posts in this thread are telling dumb-asses like you to search for the info..ITT none the less. Here are some links that have helped me along the way...

SR20DET wiring ECU pins and description of wire colors

Nissan 240sx Performance, Modification, Repair and DIY Articles - by NICOclub.com

.: Ultimate 240SX Guide: ECU Pinout Diagrams :.
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:10 PM   #149
jasonb
 
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s13 blacktop ecu spits out 0-5v square wave on tach output. i needed that info bad when wiring in my AIM dash which expects 0-12v square. a 47k ohm pullup resistor worked perfect for me. note: i've never tried using a dash other than the AIM so ymmv. If you use a pullup, i would recommend using a switched 12v power so you don't pull current through the ecu 24/7.
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Old 02-13-2012, 04:27 AM   #150
Pommy1705
 
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Hi guys

Im new to this not sure how to post a new topic, I've just put the blacktop sr20det back into my s14 after a full rebuild, I have no spark at the coils and doesn't sound like the fuel pump is going either?? Any ideas?
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