Small Questions Thread (SEARCH FIRST! Use this instead of making NEW threads)

[couped89]

Originally Posted by LoSt180

For a track car, I'd give it the same treatment as bedding in a new set of brakes. Easy warm up laps, then let vehicle cool. Want to get a heat cycle or two on it before going HAM. Test & Tune timeslots are perfect for this if you can't get any trial laps in for whatever reason.

that would be lovely except closest track to me is NOLA Motorsports and its insane to rent the track for a bit so i could do some heat cycles.

only other option i have is to dump it a local mall and drive around a bit and get a few cycles on it. i know of one that's not to busy so no one should mess with me. Was just hoping someone had a shade tree trick to do it in my yard lol.

thanks for all the answers.

[justinbyrant]

Originally Posted by codyace

Why would they not, yet a car does? It's not as if the friction material or surface of the flywheel are exotic, nor is it's function any different.

And again, how do we break it in? Ya pull out loaded and steam up the highway at full boost. There's no 'take it easy for 500 miles' nonsense. If you think clutch kicking around a corner puts any more shock on a driveline/clutch than a loaded truck going up hill shifting, you're confused.



What's the break in procedure when you go out and buy a new




Obviously Hendrick's is throwing a new clutch in the NASCAR every race, but in the same regard do you think PCA club racers are changing the clutch every race? No. Every season? No... (ok since you're a technical guy, lets not include cup cars here, but even they can be included to a degree)

Do you think Honda Challenge cars change the clutches? Only when they break one. Spec Miata? Stock style, they never fail.

My examples can continue. Do you know how they get broken in? Friday morning practice LOL as they warm up the brakes/tires.

Even in my endurance race car, we've got a Sachs OE replacement type clutch in it. It's got over 140 RACE hours on the clutch. I broke it in at NJMP during Lemon's practice a few years back. Just had the trans off to check it out - would you believe the clutch looked as new as ever.

I can give examples the day is long on people without issues who didn't break in shit, and immediately drove their car. What I can't give many examples of are guys ruining clutches when new...well...ever...

semis aren't intentionally slipping clutches even when pulling up a hill and no clutch kicking does not put more of a shock on the drivetrain but shock isn't what ruins new clutches its heat therefore breaking in the clutch isn't all that needed, the thing that ruins clutches I shall say again, is overheating, no matter how much power you run through a car, if the clutch is fully engaged and not slipping it will not see a massive heat increase like 4 or 5 full throttle clutch kicks will, no matter what track you run, no matter what type of car or driving style, nothing out there (as far as proper correct driving goes) will heat up a clutch like clutch kicking will

and yes your right they break in clutches just like a break in ceramic brakes, whats funny is ceramic clutches take about as long as ceramic brakes to break in, just enough time to get hot and your good to go, and lets say it again people heat is what kills clutches

spec Miata, lemons cars, Honda challenge cars, PCA club racers, what do these all have in common? road race cars, the majority of these cars are not being shifted flat footed, gas off, shift, gas on, again far less heat than clutch kicking, far less shock, they can go without breaking in a clutch just fine for a clutch road racing and in town daily driving is virtually the same as long as your not slipping the shit out of it while racing and shifting gears and as long as the clutch holds the power and doesn't slip under throttle

[TheRealSy90]

Put it in and go beat on it for fucks sake.
If the clutch can't handle that you really need to buy something better. I'd never consider exedy myself.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.

[Reece]

So I've noticed
My car makes a really loud knocking, vibrating noise when I'm drifting, but only when I'm going right.
If I'm going around a left corner, it's perfect, but for example if the first corner of a course is a right hander, my car either grips or understeers and something in the rear knocks or shakes like crazy.
The weirdest part is if it's already sideways and I'm going left and then transfer to the right, it still makes the noise but it performs like normal. Any ideas?

[zombiewolf513]

Originally Posted by Reece

So I've noticed
My car makes a really loud knocking, vibrating noise when I'm drifting, but only when I'm going right.
If I'm going around a left corner, it's perfect, but for example if the first corner of a course is a right hander, my car either grips or understeers and something in the rear knocks or shakes like crazy.
The weirdest part is if it's already sideways and I'm going left and then transfer to the right, it still makes the noise but it performs like normal. Any ideas?

wheel bearing?

[justinbyrant]

Originally Posted by Reece

So I've noticed
My car makes a really loud knocking, vibrating noise when I'm drifting, but only when I'm going right.
If I'm going around a left corner, it's perfect, but for example if the first corner of a course is a right hander, my car either grips or understeers and something in the rear knocks or shakes like crazy.
The weirdest part is if it's already sideways and I'm going left and then transfer to the right, it still makes the noise but it performs like normal. Any ideas?

is your car a hicas car? get it up in the air and check all the joints, any number of things under the rear could be loose and making noise, welded diff or lsd?

[Mister.E]

Are there any additional requirements needed to run a kouki heater core in a zenki? Is any rewiring needed or anything? I got rid of the bulky valve in the heater hose from car and I know that the kouki performs the same function but internally. Any way to make this easily work for that functionality with a clean look?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[black'N'proud]

Sorry if this has been asked before but I've been shopping around on japanese auction center and it seems like every item I select is blocked, can not be shipped international. Is there something I'm missing that would allow me to bid on items to be shipped to the U.S? Thanks in advance for the advice.

[5280VertDET]

Originally Posted by black'N'proud

Sorry if this has been asked before but I've been shopping around on japanese auction center and it seems like every item I select is blocked, can not be shipped international. Is there something I'm missing that would allow me to bid on items to be shipped to the U.S? Thanks in advance for the advice.

http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=337938

http://jessestreeter.com/ordering-parts/

[dbeiler]

Originally Posted by Mister.E

Are there any additional requirements needed to run a kouki heater core in a zenki? Is any rewiring needed or anything? I got rid of the bulky valve in the heater hose from car and I know that the kouki performs the same function but internally. Any way to make this easily work for that functionality with a clean look?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Nissan eliminated the heater core shut-off valve in the late '95 and up models. To my knowledge, nothing else was changed heater wise.

Years ago, auto manufactures believed they could save wear on the heater core by shutting off coolant flow through the core with a valve. Eventually they realized that shutting off flow was actually doing more damage because coolant would just sit in the core all summer long where it would gell up. Eliminating the shutoff valve allowed constant flow therefore keeping the core free of clogs. That's why you don't see valves on modern cars.

You've removed the valve. That's all there's to it.

[JrDarknes]

So my eBay Aftermarket gauge for my rb20 says I'm overheating as it exceeds levels above 200 but my stock cluster gauge sits below mid range saying I'm fine.

Even with my fans on I do not see my temperature drop.

Question is, does the RB20 Coolant temp sensor work fine on a dohc cluster? If so, I'm gonna just invest into defi gauges..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TheRealSy90]

You need to match your gauge temp sensor to the gauge cluster you have. If it's a dohc or sohc Ka cluster you need to use a dohc or sohc sensor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JrDarknes]

Originally Posted by TheRealSy90

You need to match your gauge temp sensor to the gauge cluster you have. If it's a dohc or sohc Ka cluster you need to use a dohc or sohc sensor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ahh ok, so the rb20 sensor would make it read inaccurately. So I would replace the rb20 sensor with a ka24 dohc coolant temp sensor right and wire it into my wiring specialties harness?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[91stockcoupe]

So I just changed my oil and sea foamed the car, went for a drive and the first time I go full throttle in first gear it hesitates for a second until it hits around 4000 then it pulls normally. It's not a big hesitation but it's definitely noticeable, haven't tried to see if it does it in the other gears but I think it's only in 1. It used to pull percent before oil change. It's a twin cam ka

[TheRealSy90]

Originally Posted by JrDarknes

Ahh ok, so the rb20 sensor would make it read inaccurately. So I would replace the rb20 sensor with a ka24 dohc coolant temp sensor right and wire it into my wiring specialties harness?

All the Nissan cluster temp sensors should be the same one wire plug. Yes if you have a dohc s13 cluster you want a dohc s13 cluster temp sensor. If you have an s14 you want an s14 sensor, etc etc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by 91stockcoupe

So I just changed my oil and sea foamed the car, went for a drive and the first time I go full throttle in first gear it hesitates for a second until it hits around 4000 then it pulls normally. It's not a big hesitation but it's definitely noticeable, haven't tried to see if it does it in the other gears but I think it's only in 1. It used to pull percent before oil change. It's a twin cam ka

clean your MAF sensor, then try again

[91stockcoupe]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

clean your MAF sensor, then try again

Checked it and cleaned it last week it looks good

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by 91stockcoupe

Checked it and cleaned it last week it looks good

check the pins inside the plug to the MAF on the wiring harness, make sure none of them are pushed flat.

[5280VertDET]

Originally Posted by 91stockcoupe

So I just changed my oil and sea foamed the car, went for a drive and the first time I go full throttle in first gear it hesitates for a second until it hits around 4000 then it pulls normally. It's not a big hesitation but it's definitely noticeable, haven't tried to see if it does it in the other gears but I think it's only in 1. It used to pull percent before oil change. It's a twin cam ka

Replace the cap and rotor, check timing and spark plug gaps.

[DenkiMan!]

Really quick question...Tein coilver camber plates like these here should fit fine on Kei Office type GX fronts right? I'm under the impression that Tein and Kei Office were pretty similar brands. I mean front pillow ball camber plates for coilovers in general are fairly swappable if I'm not mistaken? Or would these only work for Teins?

....ok that was more than 1 question

[LoSt180]

Originally Posted by 91stockcoupe

So I just changed my oil and sea foamed the car, went for a drive and the first time I go full throttle in first gear it hesitates for a second until it hits around 4000 then it pulls normally. It's not a big hesitation but it's definitely noticeable, haven't tried to see if it does it in the other gears but I think it's only in 1. It used to pull percent before oil change. It's a twin cam ka

Just to add to other replies, Seafoam can hose up your spark plugs and O2 sensors. The few times I've done a Seafoam treatment was just before a full tune up and haven't run into issues. Plugs and sensors had a white film caked onto them.

[Farkel]

Where can I buy these stickers?

[AllThingsGravy]

Anyone know what I should be concerned about when buying a ka24de that's been sitting in a garage for 3 years?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

[zombiewolf513]

Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy

Anyone know what I should be concerned about when buying a ka24de that's been sitting in a garage for 3 years?

If you have to ask yourself this question, then probably reliability.

[AllThingsGravy]

Originally Posted by zombiewolf513

If you have to ask yourself this question, then probably reliability.

Well I can tell if there are any mechanical issues, I ment anything specific to the ka.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

[dorkidori_s13]

Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy

Well I can tell if there are any mechanical issues, I ment anything specific to the ka.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

yeah... its a KA, thats the issue

[AllThingsGravy]

Originally Posted by dorkidori_s13

yeah... its a KA, thats the issue

Well I should of been more specific but I'm looking at a ka in a car lmao... so really I have no choice

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

[rawgarage]

Originally Posted by AllThingsGravy

Well I should of been more specific but I'm looking at a ka in a car lmao... so really I have no choice

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk

fluids ... plugs and wires... gaskets...

[Jorgs_7]

Whats the best way to go about purchasing/obtaining carpet for my S14?

[SoundEfx]

Originally Posted by Jorgs_7

Whats the best way to go about purchasing/obtaining carpet for my S14?

I think that there's a few of them on ebay for $150. Some of them even comes with good reviews.