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Old 12-18-2008, 10:21 PM   #151
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DO NOT buy a system from Best Buy, especially if you're going to spend that kind of cash. You're in LA, you should come listen to my system and see what you think, I can definitely build you something better for less money.
yea i know dude my dad put the system before he gave me the car....i know they rape u with the installation price and all that bs......im sure ur stuff is good when i get another car i'll get my system from u most def........ just with the diagrams that u posted looks good for sure dude
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Old 12-20-2008, 04:53 PM   #152
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Front: MB Quart RSC 216's
Rear: MB Quart DKD 116's
Sub: 8in Kicker Solo Baric L5
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Old 12-20-2008, 05:38 PM   #153
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Front: MB Quart RSC 216's
Rear: MB Quart DKD 116's
Sub: 8in Kicker Solo Baric L5
What amp/processing? I've never heard the square 8", I bet with some clean power in a good box it'd sound pretty good.
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Old 12-21-2008, 04:31 AM   #154
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so i put these in today
Kenwood Excelon KFCX1710P 6.5" High Performance 2-Way Component...
(not from there, out of my stagea) HOLY SHIT
i remember why i love music. everything is so clear...no distortion all the way up to max volume...now i need somethin gfor hte back, and an amp. and a louder headunit
my directed d700 is killing my sub though. it was bench tested 3 years ago at around 1000 at 1ohm. i have it at 2ohm on my JVC, and half gain, and its still too much power. Box is sealed with correct airspace lol

time to move up to a better sub
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Old 12-21-2008, 12:34 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yokotas13 View Post
so i put these in today
Kenwood Excelon KFCX1710P 6.5" High Performance 2-Way Component...
(not from there, out of my stagea) HOLY SHIT
i remember why i love music. everything is so clear...no distortion all the way up to max volume...now i need somethin gfor hte back, and an amp. and a louder headunit
my directed d700 is killing my sub though. it was bench tested 3 years ago at around 1000 at 1ohm. i have it at 2ohm on my JVC, and half gain, and its still too much power. Box is sealed with correct airspace lol

time to move up to a better sub
Ewww, they're 2ohm? And you're running that off a head unit? STOP! Head units are not meant to run 2ohm loads, you'll fry the amp inside the head unit, and possibly the entire thing.

The D700 is a super powerful amp, meant to run a whole network of subs at around 1ohm - if you're just running a single 2ohm sub, you probably should have the gain turned all the way down lol. Good thing about a sealed box is that you can hear it "clip"/"slap" when you're over the xmax of the sub. When you hear that, turn it down
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Old 12-21-2008, 01:54 PM   #156
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I have a simple question. If I have a 1000 watt rms sub, and an amp that puts out 1300 watts rms, will the sub only pull as much as it needs, or will the amp send all 1300 watts into the sub and cook it?
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Old 12-21-2008, 02:53 PM   #157
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I have a simple question. If I have a 1000 watt rms sub, and an amp that puts out 1300 watts rms, will the sub only pull as much as it needs, or will the amp send all 1300 watts into the sub and cook it?
Let me start by saying that a sub's RMS rating is a guideline - depending on the enclosure, power handling (which is a rating of how much power a voice coil can convert to motion of the speaker, without frying itself, or pushing the coil out of the magnetic gap) is a curve, peaking around the tuning frequency of the box. The further you get from that, the less the speaker can handle.

So basically, you've got a good setup... you should just turn the gain down on the amp, so that when you play it loud, you don't hear it clip/hop - you'll hear bass getting louder and louder, until the speaker hops the magnetic gap, then you'll hear "clip"/"pop" etc and no bass, then bass again. If you hear that, turn it down.
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Old 12-21-2008, 03:54 PM   #158
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subs are heavy and stupud haha. weight reduction ftw.
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Old 12-21-2008, 05:29 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
Ewww, they're 2ohm? And you're running that off a head unit? STOP! Head units are not meant to run 2ohm loads, you'll fry the amp inside the head unit, and possibly the entire thing.

The D700 is a super powerful amp, meant to run a whole network of subs at around 1ohm - if you're just running a single 2ohm sub, you probably should have the gain turned all the way down lol. Good thing about a sealed box is that you can hear it "clip"/"slap" when you're over the xmax of the sub. When you hear that, turn it down
yeah, i have the gain set so at full volume the sub wont distort and shit


im hoping to fry this fucking headunit. it sucks dick. then i can buy another pioneer and an amp
but on a real note, i ran these for a year in my stagea.....no problem off headunit




EDIT:
Directed 750D amp

Last edited by yokotas13; 12-21-2008 at 08:03 PM..
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:54 PM   #160
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i am currently running:

alpine HU
kicker 750w single channel amp.
kicker 350w 4 channel amp.
pioneer (cheap) 10" sub in sealed box
alpine type R 6.5" woofers with infinity reference crossover and random tweeters. (front)
pioneer 6.5" coaxials plus random tweeters with filter (ghetto) (rear)

i am well aware that my shit is pretty wack, and i put it together comprised of shit i got for free.

it sounds okay to me, personally, but i am very curious as to what kind of real sound audio systems are capable of producing, i suppose first things first i need new speakers, i would like to run a matching set of components to run off the kicker 4 chan. What components would be recomended? also that brings us to the second problem, the kicker 350w 4 chan amp, are these things any good? i am well aware that usually speakers sound better when being run off a amp, but is this amp any good?

i think the sub itself probably sucks but how is the amp? are kicker amps any good?

any comments, critisism and suggestions are greatly appreciated!

in case this matters, this is in my '79 corolla.
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Old 12-21-2008, 11:35 PM   #161
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i dont have this but since the topic is car audio....what do you guys think of the JVC-50w x 4 mosfet cd/dvd deck with 3.5" widescreen-black?good for the price?what are your takes on this?
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Old 12-22-2008, 12:55 AM   #162
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gsxrjjordan!!
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:25 AM   #163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ayuaddict View Post
gsxrjjordan!!
Lol, I was replying, but my browser crashed, then I forgot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ayuaddict View Post
i am currently running:

alpine HU
kicker 750w single channel amp.
kicker 350w 4 channel amp.
pioneer (cheap) 10" sub in sealed box
alpine type R 6.5" woofers with infinity reference crossover and random tweeters. (front)
pioneer 6.5" coaxials plus random tweeters with filter (ghetto) (rear)

i am well aware that my shit is pretty wack, and i put it together comprised of shit i got for free.

it sounds okay to me, personally, but i am very curious as to what kind of real sound audio systems are capable of producing, i suppose first things first i need new speakers, i would like to run a matching set of components to run off the kicker 4 chan. What components would be recomended? also that brings us to the second problem, the kicker 350w 4 chan amp, are these things any good? i am well aware that usually speakers sound better when being run off a amp, but is this amp any good?

i think the sub itself probably sucks but how is the amp? are kicker amps any good?

any comments, critisism and suggestions are greatly appreciated!

in case this matters, this is in my '79 corolla.
The car matters! You could drop serious cash on a nice set of components and a $1k amp and still have it sound "average" because the car's not prepped - the first thing you should do is prep the doors and trunk, then get some good components. Dynamat Extreme works, but is expensive - for my car I'm going to try Cascade VMAX (about 50sq ft of it lol) because it comes very highly recommended.

I like CDT components, because I get very natural-sounding speakers that sound like top end components for about $300 (I can get you guys that deal too) - and they take a lot of power! There are lots of good components, but there are also a ton that sound "tinney" because they use metal tweeters - I prefer the silk-dome tweeters for their soothing presence/not overpowering sound.

As far as your sub, it's just low end fill! If it never sounds right, or just isn't loud enough, you could try getting another one - your amps are OK, but with after components you should definitely upgrade the 4ch amp.

Quote:
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i dont have this but since the topic is car audio....what do you guys think of the JVC-50w x 4 mosfet cd/dvd deck with 3.5" widescreen-black?good for the price?what are your takes on this?
Was there supposed to be a link in there? No head unit actually produces the current they claim, so if you want good sound, plan on buying an additional 4ch amp. If you want a head unit that looks cool, just make sure it has discreet front/rear/subwoofer high-volt (4v or higher) preamp outs that fits in your budget, so that you can upgrade later without replacing the head unit.
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Old 12-22-2008, 10:26 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan View Post
Lol, I was replying, but my browser crashed, then I forgot.



The car matters! You could drop serious cash on a nice set of components and a $1k amp and still have it sound "average" because the car's not prepped - the first thing you should do is prep the doors and trunk, then get some good components. Dynamat Extreme works, but is expensive - for my car I'm going to try Cascade VMAX (about 50sq ft of it lol) because it comes very highly recommended.

I like CDT components, because I get very natural-sounding speakers that sound like top end components for about $300 (I can get you guys that deal too) - and they take a lot of power! There are lots of good components, but there are also a ton that sound "tinney" because they use metal tweeters - I prefer the silk-dome tweeters for their soothing presence/not overpowering sound.

As far as your sub, it's just low end fill! If it never sounds right, or just isn't loud enough, you could try getting another one - your amps are OK, but with after components you should definitely upgrade the 4ch amp.



Was there supposed to be a link in there? No head unit actually produces the current they claim, so if you want good sound, plan on buying an additional 4ch amp. If you want a head unit that looks cool, just make sure it has discreet front/rear/subwoofer high-volt (4v or higher) preamp outs that fits in your budget, so that you can upgrade later without replacing the head unit.
JVC - 50W x 4 MOSFET CD/DVD Deck with 3.5" Widescreen - Gloss Black - KDAVX44
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:20 PM   #165
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Super expensive, but if you wanna ball, go for it. Just remember that it wont sound good without a a real amp and speakers.
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Old 12-23-2008, 12:00 AM   #166
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Whats a good way to keep vibrations down on the rear deck of an s14. Just plan on running 6.5's...no subs, amp, etc. But I gotta keep bass down due to rattles.

Oh yeah when looking at speaker specs what is most important when it comes to clarity. I like highs, but pioneers I have now distort depending on the song at high levels..kinda static pop sounds
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Old 12-23-2008, 04:04 AM   #167
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Quote:
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Super expensive, but if you wanna ball, go for it. Just remember that it wont sound good without a a real amp and speakers.
hehe i have that one in my leggy
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Old 12-23-2008, 04:10 AM   #168
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in the front i have Alpine Type X 5.25" component speakers (6.5s got in the way of the window). I have 2 infiniti kappas 4x6 in the rear, all four are powered by an alpine 4 channel amp. I also have a JL 10w3 in a truck box powered by an insigna (best buy) amp which has managed to blow one other sub...
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Old 12-23-2008, 09:32 AM   #169
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Front: Pioneer D1720c's (6.5) components
Rear: Alpine Type-R 6.5 (33ow version)
4-Channel alpine PDX (class AB) for speakers
SUB: Atomix Quantum 12"
Mono alpine PDX 1.1 class D
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Old 12-23-2008, 11:55 AM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s13pignose View Post
Whats a good way to keep vibrations down on the rear deck of an s14. Just plan on running 6.5's...no subs, amp, etc. But I gotta keep bass down due to rattles.

Oh yeah when looking at speaker specs what is most important when it comes to clarity. I like highs, but pioneers I have now distort depending on the song at high levels..kinda static pop sounds
Rattles are easily taken care of with dynamat (or similar) - most people put it on the underside of the rear deck, but I like to run it over the top so it shows from outside lol. Also, make sure you do the inner and outer door skins, and the inside of the rear quarterpanel - makes a huge difference!

As far as "specs" for good sound, they don't exist. I can look at T/s parameters and know how a speaker "reacts", but can't know how it sounds until you plug it in to some clean power and listen for a bit.

If you're shopping for components, go listen to some at your local car audio shop - get a feel for what "sound" you like (tight bass, sparkling highs, more natural highs, etc) and see what they've got that's in your price range.

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Originally Posted by yokotas13 View Post
hehe i have that one in my leggy
Balllllinnnnnnnnnnnnnn ~

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in the front i have Alpine Type X 5.25" component speakers (6.5s got in the way of the window). I have 2 infiniti kappas 4x6 in the rear, all four are powered by an alpine 4 channel amp. I also have a JL 10w3 in a truck box powered by an insigna (best buy) amp which has managed to blow one other sub...
To get 6.5"s to fit, you have to space them out using rings. Easy peasy.
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Old 12-23-2008, 06:30 PM   #171
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Thanks for the advice
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Old 12-23-2008, 07:39 PM   #172
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Super expensive, but if you wanna ball, go for it. Just remember that it wont sound good without a a real amp and speakers.
i do plan on geting it.What would you recommend to go with it then?
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Old 12-23-2008, 11:49 PM   #173
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ill sell you mine if you want it.
i just want a normal pioneer. no need for a screen here
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:55 AM   #174
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hey gsxrjordan. i have 2 12" pioneer subs like i mentioned and a kicker kx850.2 amp.

i want to downgrade to 1 12" but don't really want to spend too much money.

1. can you build me a box for 1 12? how much would you charge?

2. would my sub be able to handle the 850 watts from my kicker amp?
i'm pretty sure this is the exact model i have.
http://www.amazon.com/PIONEER-TS-W30.../dp/B0007GFC3M

also, i want to change my rear speakers since they are blown, again without spending too much money. what would you recommend for rear fill 6.5"s that don't cost too much.

i'm not going for super SQ or SPL sound here... i just want decent sounding music that can get decently loud (or loud enough to cover up my exhaust note)

One more thing...
i used to be way more into car audio before when i first put this system into my car so i'm kinda confused how I have my subs/amp wired.

It says the subs are DVC 4 ohm which would mean each sub can be 2 or 8 ohms (series/parallel). I'm almost certain that I have each sub wired in Parallel which would make it 2 ohms, then the 2 subs wired in series to make it a 4 ohm final. then i have the 2 channels on the amp bridged which would means it is putting out 850 x 1 watts @ 4ohms (bridged mode) sending each sub 425 watts. does that sound right?

now onto my first question, if i wanted to downgrade to 1 12" sub, it would be either 2 or 8ohms. i don't think the kicker amp i have can run at 8 ohms so it would be 2 ohms, but then again, i'm not sure the amp can run bridged at 2 ohms. how would i wire it? (if it's even possible)
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Old 12-24-2008, 02:25 AM   #175
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Originally Posted by 94cc0rd View Post
hey gsxrjordan. i have 2 12" pioneer subs like i mentioned and a kicker kx850.2 amp.

i want to downgrade to 1 12" but don't really want to spend too much money.

1. can you build me a box for 1 12? how much would you charge?

2. would my sub be able to handle the 850 watts from my kicker amp?
i'm pretty sure this is the exact model i have.
Amazon.com: PIONEER TS-W306DVC 12" Car Subwoofer: Electronics

also, i want to change my rear speakers since they are blown, again without spending too much money. what would you recommend for rear fill 6.5"s that don't cost too much.

i'm not going for super SQ or SPL sound here... i just want decent sounding music that can get decently loud (or loud enough to cover up my exhaust note)

One more thing...
i used to be way more into car audio before when i first put this system into my car so i'm kinda confused how I have my subs/amp wired.

It says the subs are DVC 4 ohm which would mean each sub can be 2 or 8 ohms (series/parallel). I'm almost certain that I have each sub wired in Parallel which would make it 2 ohms, then the 2 subs wired in series to make it a 4 ohm final. then i have the 2 channels on the amp bridged which would means it is putting out 850 x 1 watts @ 4ohms (bridged mode) sending each sub 425 watts. does that sound right?

now onto my first question, if i wanted to downgrade to 1 12" sub, it would be either 2 or 8ohms. i don't think the kicker amp i have can run at 8 ohms so it would be 2 ohms, but then again, i'm not sure the amp can run bridged at 2 ohms. how would i wire it? (if it's even possible)
do u want a special kind of box made or would like to purchase a premade enclosure for the 12. also sealed, ported, or bandpass? i got a good connect out here in santa clarita pretty cheap dood. let me know. its where i bought all my shit

anways.

kk well imma list a couple of my recent setups.

Alpine 9887 unit
polk momo 6 1/2s
2 12" kicker cvrs
sealed enclosure
power acoustik 1920 watt mono block amp
1.0 farad cap

pioneer phd 4000d touchscreen (i believe that was the model)
Alpine type r 6 1/2's
10" jl w7
3.2 cubic foot ported box
jl audio 500/1
1.5 farad cap

Valor its- 703w flipout touchscreen
polk momo 6 1/2's
15" kicker L7
2 cubic foot ported box
hifonics bxi 1608 mono block amp
1.5 farad cap

and my current setup is

Kenwood kdc- mp638u
pioneer 4x7's
(ordered) 2 12" kenwood kfc- w3011
(ordered) 2 cubic foot bandpass box
(ordered) Kenwood kac- 8104 mono block amp
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Old 12-24-2008, 03:44 AM   #176
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well, if gsxrjordan can build me a small ported box for a good price, i would want to go that route, but i know that ported boxes usually cost quite a bit more. i guess if you can get me a ported box for 1 12" that isn't too big but still is a good fit for my sub (air space/port frequency and all that stuff), i would buy one from you but if gsxrjordan can build me one for the same price or a little bit more i would prefer a custom built one...

i think the biggest issue that i'm not sure on right now is if my amp can be used to power just one of my subs.
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Old 12-24-2008, 04:03 AM   #177
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Originally Posted by 94cc0rd View Post
well, if gsxrjordan can build me a small ported box for a good price, i would want to go that route, but i know that ported boxes usually cost quite a bit more. i guess if you can get me a ported box for 1 12" that isn't too big but still is a good fit for my sub (air space/port frequency and all that stuff), i would buy one from you but if gsxrjordan can build me one for the same price or a little bit more i would prefer a custom built one...

i think the biggest issue that i'm not sure on right now is if my amp can be used to power just one of my subs.
Lol amps can always handle higher impedance, it's the lower impedance they have a problem with (makes them run too hot). You'll be fine wiring that up as an 8ohm load, but you could also wire it up as a 4ohm load as well (your Kicker amp is actually a 2ch right, so you wire each voice coil to a separate channel). Either way, you'll be fine - it's OK to have too much amp for a sub, that's what your gain knob is for.

As far as a custom box, how custom do you want to go? Depending on what car you have, I might be able to take measurements from one of mine, but for a ported box I usually charge $100, including materials (which are somewhere around $40). Takes about 2 days, depending on what you want done.

PM me your car, where you want the sub/amps (maybe you want a floating amp rack or something too?), and what exact sub you have (and T/s parameters if you have them), and I'll shoot you over some ideas. I'll be taking measurements for Carlo's box and amp rack for his DD S14 this week, and hopefully making something for him next week
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Old 12-24-2008, 04:08 AM   #178
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cool, i'll PM you right now.

so if i wired each voice coil to each channel on my amp, what ohm load would that be and how much power would the single 12" be getting?
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Old 12-24-2008, 04:15 AM   #179
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cool, i'll PM you right now.

so if i wired each voice coil to each channel on my amp, what ohm load would that be and how much power would the single 12" be getting?
If your amp provides between 180w and 295w per channel @ 4ohms (depending on input voltage, Kicker rates their amps @ 12.5v and 14.4v for low and high ratings), so each voice coil would be getting that much RMS power... too much for most enclosures (remember, ported and bandbass have lower power handling than sealed). That's why you'd have to turn the gain down.

Or, you could wire them as an 8ohm load, and bridge both channels on the amp, and you'd get the same thing.
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Old 12-24-2008, 10:51 AM   #180
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Its funny how post your audio setup has been turned into ask GSXRJJordan lol.
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