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Chat General Discussion About The Nissan 240SX and Nissan Z Cars |
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10-20-2012, 04:06 PM | #601 |
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Went to the track thurs and think I blew the head gasket on the 2step. Made like 35-40psi
Water in #2 cylinder and water oil mixed.
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10-20-2012, 07:23 PM | #603 |
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Don't know which this one is.
I had a cosworth before when it lifted my head on old turbo/tune then had my buddy put it in for me while I was gone in Texas Also forgot to tell you when you asked about my timing. I'm running 32 degrees I think at full boost upper revs
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10-21-2012, 04:28 PM | #604 |
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Well it sounds like your a great candidate for 1/2" head studs lol. Hopefully you can swap gaskets and get it going again quickly. Think you will be back in the game before the season ends?
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10-21-2012, 04:30 PM | #605 |
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Don't you have a limit to what amount of boost you build on the line?
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10-21-2012, 04:42 PM | #606 | |
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Hope so we will see
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10-23-2012, 10:19 PM | #607 |
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It would be the perfect time for 1/2 studs brother. My friend had a twin charged single cam KA at 720hp and it he couldn't keep a clutch in it or keep the head down. He eventually parted it out and bought an LS1.. I would have loved to see how crazy it could have got.
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10-24-2012, 06:41 AM | #608 | |
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10-24-2012, 07:08 AM | #609 | |
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i still havent pulled the head off yet. was really bummed when it happened so kinda out of it still but i will get to it soon.
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10-24-2012, 11:22 AM | #610 |
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I'd rework the setup to run the anti-lag. I dont see it being possible to leave with 35-40lbs of boost, you'll blow those tires off. 20lbs is more reasonable though.
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10-24-2012, 11:30 AM | #611 |
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i didnt want that much thats just what it did when i bumped the limits up for more rev but yes i want to be about 20-25psi out the hole
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10-25-2012, 10:10 PM | #617 | |
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Whichever is the weakest link at the time but it can go both ways Thanx hope to have it redone before dec to make it for IFO Vegas to run with my dad
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11-02-2012, 11:11 PM | #618 |
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What's the update Santos?? My engine was finished today, so I'm not far from following in your foot steps.
+.020" CP pistons, 8.5:1 Manley H beams new factory crank ACL coated bearings Precision 6266 being built HKS 272's most likely.. Undecided for e85 or 93 and meth injection Undecided on clutch too.. What are you using for a clutch Santos? |
11-03-2012, 10:05 AM | #619 |
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good stuff bro good luck hope it works well for you. what AR did you go with?
i havent touched my car, been busy and sick so its sitting under the car cover. maybe week week i can open her up n see whats going on and get her back together to run it at the IFO event in Vegas Im running a Comp twin disc
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11-03-2012, 11:03 AM | #620 |
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hey santos sorry to hear that.....28-29 psi is pushing it on standard lenght 3/8 studs and if it made 35 pounds on the 2 step...which it should not have...you were pushing it yes 1/2 head studs are better but at that point a sleeved block might be a consideration...or the mazworx longer head studs...what was timing retard on 2 step...?.
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11-03-2012, 11:35 AM | #621 | |
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the 2step built more then 35psi im sure i just cant tell you for sure as my gauge only reads up to 30 and i run 33 psi total i know i need a higher reading gauge and didnt have my logs on either. i want to sleeve but i still dont feel there is a need for it. Im on E85 motor runs cool and will see more psi as well as she sits. anti-lag and 2steps kills motors and it was just its time i guess. IDK what the retard on the timing was i would have to check. along with this i think i will be throwing her on the dyno to try ad get the boost sileniod figured out and get rid of my MBC finally. that will help maintain boost and give me better ramp up too. with the holidays coming too everything is just harder to do.
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11-03-2012, 01:18 PM | #622 |
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i agree changing the mains to studs is a waste of time ....but like i said are you running the stock length head studs or the longer mazworx versions?...you should be able to look at anti lag timing it should show degrees that is degrees on top of base timing and or retard of base timing more neg or retard more boost, more advance less boost....(on the 2 step side)yes the holidays kill the car funds...
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11-03-2012, 01:39 PM | #623 | |
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yea im using standard length ARP's ill have to check the part # to be sure but i bought them a long time ago when i had the 1200
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11-03-2012, 02:27 PM | #624 |
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I bought the .64 back half. I agree with main bolts. I use GTiR main bolts. I also agree your engine is setup just fine. People are all skiddish about "you need this, you need that" but they have never used or had a failure with the parts in question. Powertune in Australia made over 500whp with a factory engine and plenty of people are making 600-700hp on 3/8" studs and even factory sleeves. Yes, those parts are bomb proof and I will eventually go that route but there are ways around it.
You just need to set some parameters for the 2step. I hope you find the time to look at your car soon man. I have 3 questions.. What turbine housing are you using? What clutch are you using? Do you think the 5858 would be better for a street/drag car? I've seen 550hp users, just wondering how narrow your powerband is with the 6266... |
11-03-2012, 02:37 PM | #625 |
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i ahve a t3 .64 back side
using a Comp twin disc never looked at the 5858 but my power shoots up at 5700 a 6262 is along the lines of a GT35 but quicker spool.
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11-03-2012, 02:45 PM | #626 |
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Like mentioned above, 1/2 studs and Darton sleeves, really can handle heat and the bolts will hold, most likely the head's metal would break before the bolts.
I have both in my car, 1/2 studs and Sleeves. Can really say that the sleeves is worth it! in the second car, an Volvo 8v engine, we had sleeves inserted and it survived 2 insutes of 153* degrees oil and 120* degrees waterboiling, both Celsius of course. All we did was let it cool down for a few mins and cranked it and had more fun on the track. inside the engine everything was completely fine, could take my nail among the inserted sleeves and couldn't feel anything but smoothness. Also after just wiping with your finger, removing the "sugar" of the E85 they looked brand new, pistons as well. No doubt Darton sleeves is worth it, especially in dragracing. Because of this experience i had both my SR20 blocks inserted sleeves into, then bored to 90mm (Sr22) and it still should handle tons of torture on warm days with a lot of boost (requires 1/2 studs) I will get my first sr22 ran in a couple of months, will give feedback in my build thread on the premium forum.
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11-03-2012, 02:57 PM | #627 |
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yes sleeves will take the beating etc, i had 2 honda blocks sleeved for builds years ago. I am simply working within my means and sleeves are something that when i can i would do. if parts were more avail i wouldnt even build a SR honestly i would do a CA. IRon block baby and high revs i love that motor
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11-03-2012, 03:10 PM | #628 |
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I might could sell you my brand new SR22block with sleeves inserted, as i am spending all money and time to build my other sr22 btcc engine. Would need you to send me your block though, so i can get it done with sleeves at a later point when I am ready.
hehe Why don't you buy a billet made SR20 block? hehe probably very cheap... Looks like porn though
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11-03-2012, 03:52 PM | #629 | |
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billet blocks are nice and if i had the CAD for it and the $ to buy the block of aluminum i need i would just machine it at work LOL
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11-04-2012, 09:03 AM | #630 |
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S@ntos you're crazy lol. Stock sleeves and bolts at that power level.. Glad its working for you because I know damn sure it wouldn't work in my favor!
I wish I had all the equipment like I had at my old shop in Detroit. I'd be machining the craziest things too lol |
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