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Old 07-15-2017, 11:58 AM   #1
Beas
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Puller AND Pusher Fans. thoughts? experience?

So, My big ole 6 liter hunk of iron doesn't stay cool very well in the summer (100+ temps). I have dual 11 inch electric puller fans, but I don't think they are enough to cool the water in the massive dual pass radiator I have. Anybody running puller and a pusher fan? did it help?

btw I cant run bigger puller fans due to space restrictions. might add water sprayers.
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Old 07-15-2017, 12:01 PM   #2
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evenly spaced on the radiator, should work. is this an rb motor?
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Old 07-15-2017, 12:25 PM   #3
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Based on the fact he said 6 liter....I'm assuming its an LS.

Anyways, how many CFM's do your fans flow? Are you running a shroud? Pusher fans are usually less effecient than pullers, and they're an air flow restriction as well.

If you have an OEM radiator support, notch it and tilt the radiator forward so you can fit some big boy fans in there. Check out Derale fans. They have some that flow 2000CFMS each.

Or ditch the lame LS swap and put something cool in it. Like a JZ.
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Old 07-15-2017, 01:43 PM   #4
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Make some ducting for the radiator, and buy a huge oil cooler
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Old 07-15-2017, 02:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuzzio View Post
Anyways, how many CFM's do your fans flow? Are you running a shroud? Pusher fans are usually less effecient than pullers, and they're an air flow restriction as well.

If you have an OEM radiator support, notch it and tilt the radiator forward so you can fit some big boy fans in there.

Or ditch the lame LS swap and put something cool in it. Like a JZ.
I think each fan is around 1200 cfm dual electric. yeah, maybe finding a way to move it forward would be a good long term solution. Also, considering the car is sideways so much, I don't think a pusher is a big air flow restriction.

This LQ9 was daily driven for 2 years and ive run about 15 events on it. never broken anything. idk how many jz guys can say that.

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Make some ducting for the radiator, and buy a huge oil cooler
I have a 15 row mishimoto cooler right now. my problem is still water temps.
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Old 07-15-2017, 03:15 PM   #6
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Honestly on that motor, and the stress you put on it, I would just try to get some Efans that pump more CFM. To my knowledge (this is basing off of old SBC's) a standard SBC will normally require about 2700-2800 CFM, so I'd look into upgrading your fans. You might even want to look into a 90-95 ford taurus fan, can be had cheaply with replacements out there and I believe it does about 4500 CFM or around there, and it'll have a shroud.
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Old 07-15-2017, 03:30 PM   #7
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Alternatively, altima fans have a stout CFM rating if I recall.
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Old 07-16-2017, 09:29 AM   #8
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the problem is bigger fans wont fit right now. maybe I can find a way to move the rad forward.
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Old 07-16-2017, 10:37 AM   #9
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I have a 6.2. I'm running dual spal 12 inch pullers on a mishi rad. Try that with a 160 tstat. What temp are you running that has you concerned.
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Old 07-17-2017, 03:31 AM   #10
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We aren't saying you need bigger fans, you need BETTER fans. I'm going to assume your radiator has two 12" fans on the shroud. If it has a shroud, which it should.
Anyways, those two piddly 1200cfm fans which probably don't even pull 1200cfm aren't cutting it.
SPAL has a 12" fan that pulls 1850cfm. Two of those and you're pulling 150% more air than those 1200's that don't pull 1200 are doing.


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Old 07-17-2017, 05:54 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuzzio View Post
Based on the fact he said 6 liter....I'm assuming its an LS.

Anyways, how many CFM's do your fans flow? Are you running a shroud? Pusher fans are usually less effecient than pullers, and they're an air flow restriction as well.

If you have an OEM radiator support, notch it and tilt the radiator forward so you can fit some big boy fans in there. Check out Derale fans. They have some that flow 2000CFMS each.

Or ditch the lame LS swap and put something cool in it. Like a JZ.
Step number one would be to stop calling it an LS swap before he goes JZ haha. Aint no LS if its a 6.0 Iron block.

Junk the BS fans you have now, instead look for a 90-98 Ford Taurus/Mercury fan/shroud setup. One single fan can typically out flow both those 12's + the included shroud helps.
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:52 AM   #12
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One thing you may want to check, and double check, make sure there is absolutely not air pockets in the system.

That and make sure you get some paneling in front of the radiator to channel air into the radiator so it doesn't go around, over or under it.

I've experienced this personally, where these Chinese made radiator fans have incorrect wire colors. Where we all know black as chassis / ground, and red as 12v, these Chinese fans are color coded backwards. Thus when you wire it up red to positive and black to ground, it effectively turns a puller fan into a pusher. This sucks when you are going to install a puller fan and it ends up pushing hot engine bay air back across the radiator!

Just a few tips from the things I've seen first hand. I'm currently running a 5.3 block with an old KA aluminum radiator, and only have cooling issues when I go the track events and hot lap it.
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:53 AM   #13
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I ended up running a LS1 fan shroud after tilting my radiator forward a few years earlier at an attempt to keep my running temps down. The LS1 fan shroud flows 10K CFM. 5k each fan. If you go this route make sure you run larger wire and 40amp relays to each fan. At startup they draw 30amps each then 13 amps continuous. I mated it to my mishimoto aluminium shroud now only 1 fan is enough to cool my motor down on 95+ degree day. if you're interested i can post pictures later when i get home from work.
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Old 07-17-2017, 10:12 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alwaysnboost View Post
I have a 6.2. I'm running dual spal 12 inch pullers on a mishi rad. Try that with a 160 tstat. What temp are you running that has you concerned.
temps that have the coolant going into the overflow after 2 laps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealSy90 View Post
We aren't saying you need bigger fans, you need BETTER fans. I'm going to assume your radiator has two 12" fans on the shroud. If it has a shroud, which it should.
Anyways, those two piddly 1200cfm fans which probably don't even pull 1200cfm aren't cutting it.
SPAL has a 12" fan that pulls 1850cfm. Two of those and you're pulling 150% more air than those 1200's that don't pull 1200 are doing.
I think ill shop around for some stronger fans that will fit.


Quote:
Originally Posted by eagleeyes221 View Post
I ended up running a LS1 fan shroud after tilting my radiator forward a few years earlier at an attempt to keep my running temps down. The LS1 fan shroud flows 10K CFM. 5k each fan. If you go this route make sure you run larger wire and 40amp relays to each fan. At startup they draw 30amps each then 13 amps continuous. I mated it to my mishimoto aluminium shroud now only 1 fan is enough to cool my motor down on 95+ degree day. if you're interested i can post pictures later when i get home from work.
this seems ideal. thanks for the idea.
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Old 07-17-2017, 03:14 PM   #15
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Coolant going into the overflow is not a bad thing, that's what it is for, to allow the coolant expansion and hold the fluid, which then gets sucked back into the radiator when it cools down. It's doing what it's intended to do.


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Old 07-17-2017, 05:41 PM   #16
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[FLICKR]20170703_120430 by chris moulton, on Flickr[/FLICKR]

you can see how much i had to cut out of the shroud to fit the larger fans. original fans were 12" from mishimoto and were about a 3rd the thickness of this these fans. i ended up cutting alot out of the new shroud aswell to get everything to fit properly

[FLICKR]20170703_123916 by chris moulton, on Flickr[/FLICKR]

[FLICKR]20170707_210307 by chris moulton, on Flickr[/FLICKR]

Last edited by eagleeyes221; 07-17-2017 at 06:01 PM.. Reason: fixed links
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Old 07-19-2017, 02:06 PM   #17
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I used the $70 altima fans from ebay (new) 93-97 year (5 blade and 4 blade together)
with a $80 aluminum radiator from ebay (disposable radiator, trash)

1 fan on high keeps the rad AND trans cooler, both cool in Florida crazy high temp mid-noon sun. I am running 5.3 + 4l80e + single turbo

I did cut the upper portion of the rad support to tilt the rad forward for max clearance, but it did fit in there (barely) before that as well.

Alot of people miss, with the LS engine, two things you shouldn't do:
1. dont loop the heater core lines. Tap, and Plug them. This accounts for some overheating issues sometimes.
2. Dont tap the water pump for steam port lines. the steam port, 4-corner unit, needs to run to the upper radiator hose or tank (I put mine in the tank).
3. never block rear steam port lines in an engine swap.
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Old 07-19-2017, 02:12 PM   #18
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Alot of people miss, with the LS engine, two things you shouldn't do:
1. dont loop the heater core lines. Tap, and Plug them. This accounts for some overheating issues sometimes.
2. Dont tap the water pump for steam port lines. the steam port, 4-corner unit, needs to run to the upper radiator hose or tank (I put mine in the tank).
3. never block rear steam port lines in an engine swap.[/QUOTE]

Curious why you feel the rear steam vent lines cannot be blocked.
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Old 07-19-2017, 02:15 PM   #19
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Cant you guys with ls's run a clutch fan?
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:49 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n View Post

Alot of people miss, with the LS engine, two things you shouldn't do:
1. dont loop the heater core lines. Tap, and Plug them. This accounts for some overheating issues sometimes.
2. Dont tap the water pump for steam port lines. the steam port, 4-corner unit, needs to run to the upper radiator hose or tank (I put mine in the tank).
3. never block rear steam port lines in an engine swap.
You are correct on number 2, number 3 can be done but anyone over 350hp at the crank the steam ports need to be connected in order to evenly pressurize the heads. Gm blocks the 2 rears from factory on most later ls series engines. As far as the first point you ALWAYS loop the coolant lines on the water pump. Read this

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...nd-u-hose.html
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