Techno Toy Tuning Interior Race Panels

[ni5mo240]

Thoughts or interest? Make a stripped interior car look alot better for sure right now they only have couple rear panels. Prices are good c pillar bar is solid no joints would probably feel that one not like those cheap ebay ones people get.

Thinking about getting some if they start selling s14 ones myself.

Rear interior side panels 100$ per set
Rear fire wall 80$
Rear parcel 80$
Coupe C-pillar bar 90$

[zspeedrft]

Pretty legit..might be interested in that rear panel cover

[5280VertDET]

What are they made of?

[ixfxi]

i think they look like shiiiet

[BoostinIX]

Certainly would save me the hassle of making them lol. Would def consider if S14 come about

[nujabe]

Can you guys do s14 ? I'm local to !

[ni5mo240]

Made from .050 aluminum. Looking into s14 right now to do the rear firewall panel and the parcel shelf first

[S14_kouki504]

Looks clean. Definitely would be interested in ones for S14

[Chaluska]

the side panels seem to fit too far forward towards the top/front. looks a little funny to me. also, are those self tapping screws? id assume that a production model would utilize existing bolt holes?

[ni5mo240]

nope all stainless self taping with stainless cup washers an the side panels run right along the edge on the top first batch/ prototypes seeing if there is a market for them. Ae86 510s and other older cars t3 sell alot of them

[STEEZxIT]

i hit them up about a month ago about s14 door panels after i saw their fc panels on my friend's fc. looked really clean in person.
they were super friendly and emailed right away that they'd work on it. i'll follow up with them and see whats happenin.

[Croustibat]

The point in removing panels is to go lighter ... i can't see these aluminium panels lighter than the stock ones . and seriously. That might rattle too, i can't see any ribs (but then maybe not)

anyway, you can get painted .050"40x60" aluminium sheet for approx 50$ off ebay, without searching too much.
I don't see them worth 100$+ of screws and labor. To each their own i guess...

[ni5mo240]

well i don't know how many people have a laser cutter, water jet, or bender at home let alone solid works or cad and can operate those programs and then not only that have the funds to make a couple of mistake untill you get a fitted product. But when mounted they do not rattle and they some of the panels may be lighter the stock and some are not but the look of a lil more finish gutted interior is better then a bunch of gabbing holes and exposed wires. i under stand in the pics above the harness is not tuch but this was just a test fit.

[feito]

I agree with croustibat. Besides the rear firewall i dont see a point to use these. Stockers can't be any heavier if not lighter than these, look better, cheaper and are easy to find. The only excuse i can think of is for cool points with the hard parking kids at the meet.

[hartig]

Originally Posted by ixfxi

i think they look like shiiiet

this guy right here

[Nissansota240]

Pro Tip: The opening in front of the rear wheel well by the back seat can be used to hold a spare jug of oil or coolant. hahaha

The rear firewall panel cover looks like it could have some promise, needs a bit of refining first. The sides could be trimmed down a tad (smoother radius's on the corners), but would probably look better overall if the interior was painted instead of the stock paint/glue/ and fuzz.

[BSPerformance]

I would def be interested in a set of door panels for a manual window s13

[ixfxi]

Originally Posted by Croustibat

The point in removing panels is to go lighter ... i can't see these aluminium panels lighter than the stock ones . and seriously. That might rattle too, i can't see any ribs (but then maybe not)

anyway, you can get painted .050"40x60" aluminium sheet for approx 50$ off ebay, without searching too much.
I don't see them worth 100$+ of screws and labor. To each their own i guess...

EXAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAACTLY

i feel like this frenchie is one of the few people with a brain on this forum

other than "OEM is no longer available" and this being a last alternative, i dont see the purpose

there is ABSOLUTELY no way that these are lighter than stock

and, the only way i can see these having any value is if someone bead-rolls them to make them more rigid and pleasing to look at.

oh well

[Matej]

Stripped interior looks better than some out-of-place flat panel. Just tuck the wiring and paint it.
I cringe whenever I see self-tapping screws used on a car.

[joshchewuhh]

that c pillar bar looks legit! where do i buy?

[ni5mo240]

well i would have to say the top part of the back seat alone is heaver then all the panels put together, each side panel weighs the same as the stock ones. Sure some bead roll and cross hatching would look cool and fancy but then they wouldn't be afford able.

[ixfxi]

give me a break, affordable to who?

bead rolling a panel isnt for looks, it adds strength

the last thing i would ever want is some stupid flat panel rattling around

if you're going to do it, do it right.

[Wookie384]

Just a head's up, a few months ago I went to Auto Club Speedway with my buddy to drag race his car for shits and giggles, when I was going through tech inspection they mentioned that since my battery is relocated to the trunk, I need some sort of firewall. I'm not really that into drag racing, I actually think its kinda boring and would rather road race my car which I plan to. Now as far as I know a rear firewall isn't needed for a similar set up for roadracing, but the "rear firewall" could work if it is infact strong enough to be considered one. I think it would look better it it integrated somehow with the rear parcel shelf/deck (portion where rear speakers go).

[Rambo slice]

cool idea, just looks like a prototype. Keep working on it! That c pillar is pretty if its functional i'd like one for my hatch maybe

[slow92]

I would def buy the rear firewall. It would probably be cheaper than having one made so I can run in the drag strip.

[ni5mo240]

These do not rattle there is plenty of hardware include to hold them down and really who 240 doesn't have some sort of rattle? LOL T3 has has tons of sale to the toyota a datsun crowed maybe the s13 and s14 are too new for this. The fire wall and parcel shelf has to be two pieces also to get it in the car and mount would be cool one piece but its to large of a panel together

[Croustibat]

Originally Posted by slow92

I would def buy the rear firewall. It would probably be cheaper than having one made so I can run in the drag strip.

I think a battery box would look better, be lighter and pass inspection. I have never heard about a firewall needed for a battery in the back (or behind the passenger seat either, but again, correctly attached battery box is needed - and it needs to be vented)

[ZX88]

not sure what the point of this is. replace light weight plastic panels with slightly (possibly) lighter worse looking ones.

[HighwaystarJC]

removed panels and added new panels but hasnt removed sound deadening?

[Wookie384]

Originally Posted by slow92

I would def buy the rear firewall. It would probably be cheaper than having one made so I can run in the drag strip.

Originally Posted by Croustibat

I think a battery box would look better, be lighter and pass inspection. I have never heard about a firewall needed for a battery in the back (or behind the passenger seat either, but again, correctly attached battery box is needed - and it needs to be vented)

I'm sorry for taking this off topic, but as stated, the NHRA 2014 Rulebook states:

"8:1 BATTERIES
All batteries must be securely mounted; must be of sufficient
capacity to start vehicle at any time. Batteries may not be
relocated into the driver or passenger compartments. Rear
firewall of .024-inch steel or .032-inch aluminum (including
package tray) required when battery is relocated in trunk. In lieu
of rear firewall, battery may be located in a sealed .024-inch
steel, .032-inch aluminum, or NHRA-accepted poly box. If sealed
box is used in lieu of rear firewall, box may not be used to secure
battery and must be vented outside of body. Relocated battery(s)
must be fastened to frame or frame structure with a minimum of
two 3/8-inch-diameter bolts. OEM located batteries without
complete OEM hold-down hardware must be secured to OEM
battery box/tray using the same 3/8-inch-diameter bolt hold-down
method described in previous sentence. (“J” hooks prohibited or
must have open end welded shut.) Metal battery hold-down
straps mandatory. Strapping tape prohibited. A maximum of two
automobile batteries, or 150 pounds combined maximum weight
(unless otherwise specified in Class Requirements), is permitted.
Maximums may vary according to Class Requirements."


Also, Slow92, I forgot that you need a killswitch mounted according to their rules, PM me if you need info for that.

Originally Posted by ni5mo240

...The fire wall and parcel shelf has to be two pieces also to get it in the car and mount would be cool one piece but its to large of a panel together

I understand that it has to be two pieces, but if you could eliminate the gap between the two pieces (the way I see the pic I see a gap) and had them interlock, sandwich, or somehow connect together, it would be more cleaner. Also, the above quote includes what NHRA dictates the specifications the firewall should be, if the firewall was made to comply with that, then that's just another selling point to buy it.