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Old 10-27-2016, 06:06 AM   #7231
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sweet, thanks for your insight dude!.
not familiar with "George's rack extension" lol
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Old 10-27-2016, 09:13 AM   #7232
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He's taking about one of these:



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Old 10-27-2016, 12:50 PM   #7233
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ooh. ok. Thanks Alex. =P
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Old 10-27-2016, 06:29 PM   #7234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealSy90 View Post
Forgot to mention I did remove the bump stop and flattened the small lip that protrudes horizontally at the bottom of the LCA as the tie rod end was hitting it. So I gained a little lock right there.


Yes this is the most lock possible with a stock knuckle, without the GKTech rc kit a stock knuckle would never go this far imo.
It's a TON more than S14 lca and changing tie rods.


To clarify I'm running a George's rack extension on the passenger side and PBM tie rod spacer on the driver side to be specific. This is the most potential inner rack travel you can have without cutting an additional tooth into the inner rack. A rack extension on the driver side will not net additional rack travel in that direction without cutting another tooth. Same with running tie rod spacers on the extension itself lol.
do you have any info on that procedure (adding extra tooth to the rack)??
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Old 10-28-2016, 12:52 AM   #7235
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I've never tried it.


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Old 10-28-2016, 04:18 AM   #7236
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do you have any info on that procedure (adding extra tooth to the rack)??
i was curious about this as well. I'm assuming it would be added on the driverside and couldn't be cut "free-handed"; maybe a jig settup?
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Old 10-28-2016, 06:57 AM   #7237
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You shouldn't have to cut an extra tooth into the rack, there is more then enough potential with just adding rack spacers, tie rod combo, and knuckle setup. I have plenty of angle, a friend is running modded DLG knuckles, custom 1 piece lca's, 2 DLG rack spacers, and still doesn't run out of rack travel.

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Old 10-28-2016, 07:16 AM   #7238
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^wow, that. A lot of angle! And the rack is still able to go further if there were no obstructions?

..so just a hypothetical question for s chassis, or another chassis that would benefit from having an extra tooth or two cut into the rack, how would one go about doing this? Would it really need to be machined or could it be done by a skilled craftsman (or craftswoman) with an angle grinder/dremel and steady hand/jig setup?
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Old 10-28-2016, 02:06 PM   #7239
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I don't see why it couldn't be done if you measured properly and were careful/skilled. It's really not necessary with knuckles though.


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Old 10-28-2016, 03:18 PM   #7240
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If you really wanted the extra rack travel, try starting with an s15 rack instead. They have more travel by a few mm if you were that desperate. Cutting an extra tooth just seems destined for failure Imo.

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Old 10-31-2016, 08:25 PM   #7241
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If you really wanted the extra rack travel, try starting with an s15 rack instead. They have more travel by a few mm if you were that desperate. Cutting an extra tooth just seems destined for failure Imo.

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S15 are rhd . Most of.us here runs a car lhd

But its good to know s15 have abit more travel
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Old 10-31-2016, 08:37 PM   #7242
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I mean with a passenger rack extension and driver side tie rod washer/spacer then you'll already have a ton more travel than a 15 rack and shouldn't have any need for more.


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Old 11-01-2016, 01:58 AM   #7243
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S15 are rhd . Most of.us here runs a car lhd

But its good to know s15 have abit more travel
My bad, keep forgetting this is an American forum.

I know some people who were looking into it and I think s15 and R34 have the same travel and it's the furthest, s13 and r32 is next best, and r33 I remember being the worst. No idea where S14 sits, but I'd imagine it's got the same internals as an r33? It's all only mm differences though.

But yeah, like sy90 said, if you fit a spacer, it'll be further, and more than necessary.

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Old 11-01-2016, 09:15 AM   #7244
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:36 PM   #7245
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Also there's no point in running a rack "extension" spacer on the driver side, the rack itself doesn't travel far enough to use it all up. The regular washer style is as far as the rack will go in that direction and it runs out of teeth. The passenger side travels inside the rack further and thus the rack extension can be used to its fullest potential. Running it on the driver side is just unnecessary.
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Old 11-02-2016, 01:55 PM   #7246
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Report on the GK Tech RC kit:
I didn't measure but if felt like I had an extra ~10 degrees of steering angle.

Felt great, had to cut a bit of the fender and hammer the chassis in a few inches. Problem could've been solved with more caster adjustment but my OEM S14 FLCA bushing was already maxed out, so basically my TC rods weren't doing much in caster adjustment .

Adjustable FLCA is next!
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Old 11-02-2016, 04:37 PM   #7247
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Adjustable FLCA is next!

Keisler Engineering sells a weld-in heim joint kit for the FLCAs for a very good deal. Used them on my own arms.
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:28 AM   #7248
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Old 11-03-2016, 08:11 AM   #7249
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Me neither, luckily I ordered a spare set last time. I think they have them on their Facebook page though?
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Old 11-03-2016, 05:01 PM   #7250
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I've always read that traction arm length in the rear should be set to stock, which is 8.25".

I just put Parts Shop Max rear drop knuckles on my car, and with 0* camber and 0* toe, with a fairly aggressively low ride height, the wheel is now shoved way forward in the well. I can't find anything about traction arm length recommendations with PSM's knuckle, I know GK Tech has recommendations for theirs but that's a completely different knuckle. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-03-2016, 06:08 PM   #7251
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I've heard that you want it to be the same length as the RUCA.
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Old 11-03-2016, 06:15 PM   #7252
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8.5" on a lowered car gives a better toe curve.


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Old 11-04-2016, 12:11 AM   #7253
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There's a article by Mike Kohima I believe its on MotoIQ, that has a section regarding S-Chassis traction rod length. It can make a huge difference in forward bite on throttle.


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Old 11-06-2016, 02:22 PM   #7254
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There's a article by Mike Kohima I believe its on MotoIQ, that has a section regarding S-Chassis traction rod length. It can make a huge difference in forward bite on throttle.


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There are two sides to that sword:

Decreasing length - more anti-squat and bumpsteer
Increasing length - less anti-squat, less bumpsteer

Optimal ratio appears to be 1:1 with extending camber arm for adjusting camber angle, i.e adding 20mm to camber arm vs oem length means same amount should be added to traction arm.
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Old 11-06-2016, 02:57 PM   #7255
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So longer is better in a drift car? Do most people want the car to squat.


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Old 11-07-2016, 06:57 PM   #7256
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There are two sides to that sword:

Decreasing length - more anti-squat and bumpsteer
Increasing length - less anti-squat, less bumpsteer

Optimal ratio appears to be 1:1 with extending camber arm for adjusting camber angle, i.e adding 20mm to camber arm vs oem length means same amount should be added to traction arm.
good to know thanks @Motary
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Old 11-09-2016, 10:05 AM   #7257
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So longer is better in a drift car? Do most people want the car to squat.


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It depends on the traction you have available, low traction scenarios would require less anti-squat. As far as I know there is no perfect setup, just good compromises. You surely do not want pro-squat as that will just compress the suspension and reduce load on the tyres. Anti-squat increases vertical load on the tyres and hence provide more traction. There is a of course too much of it (standard rideheight S13).
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:15 AM   #7258
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Quick question: Rear drop knuckles. How beneficial? Car already has subframe risers, but is tucking tire on 18's. Worth while mod for drivability/handling? Or waste of $400?

Also, i read that PBM has quality issues, and seems Era1 doesn't make them anymore? Gktech?
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Old 12-29-2016, 06:40 PM   #7259
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GkTech looks great for the adjusted camber/toe gain on throttle. By worthwhile, it depends on what you're wanting out of them. If you don't care about the performance aspect then there's no reason I guess.


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Old 01-07-2017, 01:09 PM   #7260
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I wonder how the LCA works here with no tension rod? (Ventura Racing S14)



edit: nvm, I can see a custom knuckle in there (tie rod pickup on the front side?). I'll be the subframe and LCA are custom too.
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